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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
Any updates?
I believe the 80's trans coolers are about double the size of the stock one. You could also use one as a power steering cooler.
Sorry it took me a while to respond, I haven't had much free time lately. We ended up installing an F-Series transmission cooler but I am not sure of the model because Ziggy found it at a junkyard and wasn't sure. The model number seems to be FCTH-7A095-BA. It really fit perfectly, we just had to mount it slightly higher than the original one because it was bigger so we had to drill extra holes, but that was really the easy part.






The hardest part was to bend and custom fit the lines. That took most of the time and it is not an easy task. All the credit goes once again to Ziggy, who did all the work. We used this type of brake line for the job:



And a special tool to make each bend on a bench and then test fit it each time for each of the bends, sorry I do not have pictures of the bending tool:




Also, do you have a picture of how you mounted the 90s overflow/washer jug? Did the factory plug work with the newer washer pump?

Yes I do. I had some issues at the beginning because these tanks tend to leak where the pump goes, but after replacing the pump and using some silicone grease it hasn't leaked any more. Yes, it uses the same factory plug. I believe its the tank that the 1996 Broncos use and this is a Dorman replacement, the pumps you can find different brands make them.



Ziggy fabricated a plate to support it and I reused a plastic bracket from my previous tank so I could easily remove it when needed.




We had also to use an adapter for the hose because the factory one for 78-79s are smaller ID.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
Progress has really been slow. Mainly because of a couple of recurring leaks that I can not seem to make stop.

One is with the re-cored radiator. It initially was leaking everywhere. We took it back to the shop that did the work and tried to put the blame on me for using a premixed 50/50 coolant instead of using concentrated coolant with distilled water. Apparently, this can damage brass radiators and cause leaks. What?! I wish they told me when we originally pick it up from them! Anyways, they "fixed" it under warranty and we picked it up the same day and installed it but unfortunately, there is still a leak coming from the upper hose area. I have tried everything, from pushing the hose against the radiator and reclamping, putting an extra clamp, using a constant torque clamp... but it keeps leaking. It happens after driving the truck and seating while cooling down. It seems to be seeping through the upper tube where the upper hose goes. It is very annoying, considering the amount of money it costs and the hassle of having to remove the radiator to take it to them for a repair that should not be necessary.

This is after the warranty repair, they did not have time to paint the repair area, this is why it looks like that:



You can see how it creates a pool of coolant:



I am trying a new hose soon, although I am pretty sure it is not the hose.


The other leak is with the steering hose from the Wild Horses Saginaw kit. They were really nice and sent me a new hose for free, this is really restoring my faith on them. I havent had a chance to replace the hose yet tho.




Other things I have been working on:

-Installing the rest of the AC components:



-I wasn't getting much air coming from the fan in the cabin and the blower motor was sounding a bit weird everytime I engaged it. So I realized I had the wrong blower motor fan. It was great that when I restored the whole heater box assembly I didn't use rivets to seal back the box, I used small bolts and nuts. So I was able to replace the fan without removing the whole assembly by simply unscrewing the bolts.




Here are the two blower motor fans. The black one is a correct AC one for my set up, the silver one is the non-AC one that the PO installed for some reason.



-The filling hose on my fuel tank was leaking. Every time I went to a gas station to fill the tank I would have a leak coming from that hose. To replace the hose unfortunately you have to drop the tank. And so we did, replaced the hoses and lightly cleaned everything. I might go back to it later with more time to clean it and paint it all:








-I also was noticing that my crank pulley was vibrating a bit. And found that odd. So I removed it, inspected it and put it back with the correct torque specs. It did have a few dings here and there, but no reason for those to cause a wobble. I am not really sure about this. Maybe it is normal for the crank pulley to wobble a bit on these 70's trucks? Does anyone have this issue? I feel that it is not doing it anymore, but sometimes it does a vibrate a bit.








-I also did this a while ago, thought it would be cool to share it. Just a DIY bunch of 2x4s assembled to help me support myself so I do not damage anything in the engine bay while I can reach the very end:



 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
Quick update on my latest progress:

-I finally figured out the radiator leak. Unfortunately, I had to take it back to the shop, and it was what they call a "sleeper", a really hard to detect leak. It was in the upper neck and would not show up unless you lightly tapped the radiator. Luckily they found it, fixed it and gave it back to me while I was waiting there. Really great service. The owner was talking to me and realized that the problem might have been a radiator cap that I was using. And this is super important for anyone reading this, make sure your radiator cap is rated for 12+13lbs if you have an original radiator. I went to a walk-in auto store and they gave me a 16lbs cap because that's what came up according to their system. That put too much pressure on the radiator and might have caused the leak. I had no idea at the time and I never paid attention to it. NEVER NEVER listen to people at auto parts stores if you need advice for a part that you do not know, rely on this forum or other experienced people when you are researching for parts. Even if it is for something simple like an oil filter because you might end up regretting it just like me. I am not trying to bring them down, but the majority are young guys and they just look immediately at the computer and have no idea, it is not really their fault. You just have to be careful when ordering parts.

-The steering pump leak is still there. Since it is minor I am not paying much attention to it for now. But I will take care of it soon enough.

-I do have another annoying leak coming from the oil dipstick tube where it meets with the oil pan. I might attempt to take care of it on my next oil change tho. If anyone has any tips on how to stop those, I'll appreciate it!

-That crank pulley story ended up making me find an original Ford Master Parts Catalog to see if what I had was correct. And it was. Ziggy also checked the pulley for any damage and it was fine. I think the vibration is mostly on the alternator belt and Ziggy told me it is normal on these trucks since the alternator pulley is smaller and away from the crank pulley. Does this happen to you guys too?

-I did end up removing the gas tank again and ended up cleaning and repainting the rear end and the frame. My undercarriage is almost perfect now, I still have some parts left but at least it is easily accesible :thumbup

I took the skid plate to sandblast and powder coat, just wanted to have a more durable finish for it. It has quite a lot of pitting in the inside but the outside is perfect:



Added some foam strips (I was running out of it and had to improvise) to protect metal to metal contact:



I ended up replacing the tank and the fuel sender unit. I figured that for the price of a new one and the effort of cleaning and restoring the original ones it wasn’t worth it. But Ziggy told me that actually the original sender units are better than any reproduction, oh well too late now.










I also restored the filling hose assembly, what the heck :):




A cool thing that I did not notice before is that I have the orignal Ford clamps and they are in great shape. At the begining I thought it said Jeep, but its because they were very dirty and instead it says Ideal and on the other side Ford Size 6, so cool!:





As far as the undercarriage and frame I did the same I did in the front end. Cleaned 4 or 5 times with a degreaser and pressure water. Dried it with compressor and applied the Corroseal. I let that cure for 24 hours and then I painted it with a primer first and then with a final few coats of chassis black. Sorry the pictures are not very good in showing the process:

This is before:




After a few passes of cleaning:



The final:








Another thing that was bothering me, the original trailer harness, what a mess:



I cleaned it all up and I will install a new connector later on. As a mater of fact, I removed the old caca around the old harness all the way from the front to the end and re taped it and put it in some looming as well




-The one thing I screwed up is that after switching the tank and the sender unit, the system was basically dry. So when restarting the truck you have to be very careful not to step on the throttle too much. And of course, I did step on it too much… and I ended up flooding the engine and blowing the power valve on the carburetor. Yay! Truly a learning experience!

I somehow managed to finally start it with Ziggy’s help over the phone, but of course it wasn’’t running right because of the blown valve and all that extra fuel.

A tip to let the fuel evaporate is to remove the air cleaner and leave the carburetor choke open overnight with the help of a screwdriver or something to hold it open.

I drove it the next day and another day but decided to stop, because it was running rich, I could notice a very potent smell of fuel. That is what happens when you blow a power valve.

This is the power valve. If when opening the power valve case you see any fuel in there that means that either the power valve is blown or the gasket is bad:






While in the process of fixing the carburetor, I also realized that my 2150 has a Variable Venturi. Which is a pain in the butt to deal with and Ziggy advised to get one with a straight venturi.

This is what a variable venturi looks like:




And this is my fuel bowl, not so bad:


I inspected the needle and needle seat because my float wasnt seating properly:


The float isnt correct for the year of the truck, the one I have is smaller (on the left compared to a regular one on the right):



Now that I have an original Master Parts Catalog I could find that the original carburetor for my application has the ID Tag D7TE-DBA. And luckily I was able to find one for really cheap that needed to be rebuild, but what are the odds… it also has a Variable Venturi! Oh well…

Does anyone have a D7TE-DBA, I am curious to see if the book is right and if it belongs to a 1978 Federal Bronco 400 A/T and if it really has a Variable Venturi.

I will be putting a 2150 with a straight venturi that Ziggy has with some standard settings. I will keep you posted! That is all for now!!

Happy New Year! Probably the year of the New 2020 Bronco!
 

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Everything looks great! Do you mind if I ask how much it cost to powder coat the skid plate and where you got it done? I have a few parts that was thinking about powder coating but have not looked into pricing yet.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #65
Thank you Yukon! I go to a place called Safeway Sandblasting, it is in Culver City. They charged me $100 for sandblasting and powder coating the skid plate. Considering a new one is about a 100 plus taxes and shipping that was not too bad. But I am sure there are probably places more affordable outside of the LA main area. It’s just so happens that this place is very convenient for me distance wise.

I would research based on your zip code, I am sure there has to be a shop that does it around there.
 

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I got my washer/overflow jug mounted the other day, thanks for the idea! I ended up trimming down the '90s mounting bracket and bolting it to the inner fender and core support
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
I got my washer/overflow jug mounted the other day, thanks for the idea! I ended up trimming down the '90s mounting bracket and bolting it to the inner fender and core support
My pleasure! Although this was more of Ziggy’s idea, he made that bracket for me I just modified it so I could easily assemble and disassemble when needed.
 

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Just finished your build thread. Great job keeping the old iron on the road. I wish I had a magic bronco helper like this Ziggy fellow!
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
Joined
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
Nominated for this month's F.O.T.M.!

Thank you for reading mp_tx! it sure has been a lot of fun and the more progress I make the more satisfying it is. And yes I am very lucky to have Ziggy's help :)

Not many updates for now, as I am still stuck with the carburetor issue. I managed to replace the power valve and the truck runs but something still feels off. And because I do not wish to risk anything I am not really driving it much just in case.

And a quick last note for anyone subscribed to this build, I am being nominated for January's Full Size Bronco of the Month! :wow So head to the thread and vote for the ride you like best!

Thank you so much!
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Congrats on the FOTY! Great build details.
Thank you so much!

Great info and photos on all your hard work, you have given me some ideas on what to do on my 78.
I am glad to hear that!

I feel that I need a bit of rest after all that tho, so much work!

Hopefully, soon I will be posting some more progress here. In particular, I will be talking about the carburetor issues I was having, which I already have all the parts and I only need to do a few more adjustments and tests.

I will keep you guys posted!

.
 
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