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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #101

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #103
Okay so like I mentioned I’ve tackled a lot since my last update.

Mainly I’ve started some of the work of completely overhauling both the axles I plan on swapping in. Don’t know if I’ve mentioned both, but I’m putting in a Kingpin Dana 60 out of a 91 F350 and a Sterling 10.25 I bought used so I’m not certain on the year.

I’ll start with the Sterling. Made a couple of big purchases. Firstly, I bought the Ford Factory E-Locker that came in 2011-2019 Superduty 10.5s. Pretty badass that it swaps right in to the Sterling 10.25. There’s a whole thread on here with a couple installs but I don’t think anyone has one fully functional quite yet.



My box came the same as everyone else’s.


I do plan on using the Bronco for some mild off-road fun as well as a daily driver so I wanted something that wouldn’t affect things too much when I didn’t need it. And for a little over $500 shipped I don’t think I’m going to get a better deal! Now wiring it up and making it fully functional I’ve got a little more research to do. I read through the linked Pirate 4x4 link and it looks like more or less I need to hook it to a 12v source and a switch. I’m sure I’ll need some sort of fuse to protect everything as well. I’ve never changed gears either so that will be a learning experience in and of itself!

The other big purchase I made was set of Left Eye Blind’s Clockable disc brakes conversion kit.

How everything comes. I sprung for the emergency brake calipers, hoses, washers, banjo bolts, rotors and brake pads.


I did get to start work on the Sterling. How it started and pre-pressure wash spray down with Simple Green.


Doesn’t look like I grabbed a picture but I did paint it with about 3 coats of Krylon Rust Protection and 2 coats of gloss clear after cleaning. Usually not a big fan of the gloss look but I learned it’s slickness helps mud slide off and keep the axle cleaner. Also painted the disc brackets.


I started by getting it up on jack stands and draining all the fluid by removing the diff cover. Gears looked pretty perfect. It does have a Factory Limited Slip.

From there we can dig in on the hub disassembly. Remove the 8 bolts.

Push in or use rubber mallet to push axle shaft in to disengage from the ring and pinion. Make sure to have a catch pan ready!

At this point you will need a special spindle socket. I used this.

Driver’s side is backwards threaded! Once the locknut is removed you can remove the hub assembly. Mine did require a bit of force, but once I involved the rubber mallet it did come loose. Put your thumbs inside hub to guide bearing out! The tightened on seal is what is holding it in place. Mine was definitely mangled in the process. Thanks to an old post here I was able to find the correct seal number. SKF 34384. Man I love RockAuto. Got the set for less than 1 cost locally.

So before replacing the seal, it’s time to get the backing plate off. I still had a Parking brake and some drum brake parts to remove beforehand. Once clear move to the axle side of the plate. There are 4 bolts to be removed. Soak in PB Blaster beforehand!

Slide that off and it’s reassembly time! Couldn’t grab any pictures with all the grease involved going forward, but I’ll do my best to explain. I started by inspecting my bearings and looking for any wear or flat spots. They looked perfect so I repacked each one, ensured the races were in the same condition and reinstalled.

Then I got my new seals in by setting them in, metal side out, and using a 2x4 on a flat surface and tapping in evenly with a rubber mallet. Spent a good amount of time cleaning the spindle surface before reassembly.

The reinstall is basically the reverse of above. Put the hub back on while holding the bearing in place. The locknut has a tang to align on the spindle. Tighten down to 55-65 ft/lbs, I went with 60. Because I used old bearings I took each side back 8 clicks to properly torque. New bearing take 5 clicks. I will note here that there is quite a bit of space between the hub and the backing plate bracket. It seemed off to me but keep reading.

I did do a test fit at this point to see if everything was installed correctly. I mounted the new brackets to the back plate bracket, clocked as I will be installing. The put the rotors on and measured the distance between the rotor and bracket. We’re looking for 3/4” to 7/8”. Mine sits right at 3/4 so we’re good to go!

I did pause at this point because the axle is not under the Bronco yet, but I will update here when I finish up!

A couple things I’ll say I was slightly disappointed with around the Disc Brake Kit. Firstly, there was no instructions included for the disc brake portion of things. They do include directions for the emergency brake caliper however. I was able to find this link that helped tremendously, but would have appreciated some direction or even something pointing me to this link for the price I paid.
Secondly, there was no mention of needing to replace your seal at this point which lead to me having to wait 5 days to get my seals in the mail. Maybe there’s a way to get those hubs off without damaging your seal but I don’t know how I’ll tell you that. I would’ve appreciated a mention of you may want to replace your seals at this point in the very least. But all that being said all the hardware looks to be top notch, so I’m still feeling great about the purchase, just wish I had a bit more guidance!
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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Discussion Starter #104
Oh I forgot to mention pulling the seals! It took quite a bit of tracking down but I rented this guy from Autozone.

It’s a pretty badass set and made pulling the seals a breeze.

I will however tell the tale of how my rental return went. Warning very long rant coming.

So first off, I rented from an Autozone I don’t normally go to but was by where I was running errands. The lady who helped me find it in the first place was super helpful since it wasn’t something listed on those sheets they have. Got it paid for and that was that. Normally I throw my receipt in with the tool but it was still sealed up so I must’ve left it in my pocket.

Fast forward to going to return it. I have to run up and get a socket from Autozone any way and I’ve pulled all the seals that needed pulling. Of course there’s literally 2 people working and 8 people in line. 20 minutes or so later I get helped by a red shirt guy. Now those who frequent the Zone know the red shirt guy is just your basic counter guy. Nothing against them but they’re usually less knowledgeable and always need a code for the the gray shirt guy. So we start the process. He asks for a receipt but I don’t have it, give him my phone number and he asks what vehicle I put it under. They never asked or told me that info. He tries his best and goes through the about 15 different profiles I have on there. Not sure why as I only have about 5 vehicles. But anyways he can’t find it. Asks gray shirt what to do. Gray shirts says it must be under a different phone number. There’s no other phone number I would’ve given. Red shirt guy starts looking again, bless his heart. Tried looking up by part number. Nothing. Tries looking it up by date, nothing. I pull up my bank account that shows the purchase. He asks for gray shirts help. Gray shirt says he’ll help me once he finishes up with current customer. Red shirt asks if he can help the next customer. I oblige.

I’m racking my brain now as to what other number I could have put it under. I, like any modern man, have but 1. My cellphone. Did I put it under my dads? No why would I do that? Or did I? Gray shirt finally finishes up and the next customer immediately walks up and needs codes read. I ask “But sir, aren’t I waiting for your help?” “Let me help him and then I’ll help you.” So wait i did he finishes up pretty quickly and we go through the same dance I did with red shirt. No dice. He asks me where I rented it and I tell him. He advises me to go back to that one. Now normally I’d push the issue because I shouldn’t have to go back to the original one, that’s the point of renting from a chain! But at this point, an hour into things it seemed like the path of least resistance.

So journey on over to the original Autozone and see the guy who rang me through originally. There was one person in his line at the checkout and about 10 in the “I have a question line”. So I wait. Customer has a return and things are looking sideways. Meanwhile customer after customer is being helped in the other line. More customers come in, more customers go out. Time is but a construct right? Finally I decide it best to venture to the “I have a question line.” There’s a mix of gray and red shirts helping out. The Zone Gods did not deem me worthy and a red shirt asks how can I help? I explain what happened at the last Autozone and he goes about processing it. Somehow he has traversed the labyrinth that is the Zone’s computer system and begins my return. Meanwhile the main gray shirt is helping a customer with a key programming. He steps outside. Red shirt has done it, pulls out the receipt and takes me to the cash register!! Thank the Zone Gods, I’ve done it!

Not so fast they say, Red shirt looks puzzled. Pulls over a minor gray shirt. Apparently the return had pulled up at over $1700! I only rented it for $135. He needs big gray shirt to void. We wait. And wait some more. Then Red shirt steps outside to find main gray shirt. Gray shirt tells him to let it time out but offers no guidance on getting me my refund. Minor gray shirt however senses a need. A need to be my white knight. He steps up to the labyrinth and begins to search. And search he does oh reader. But a light at the end of the the tunnel. He looks to the part. He looks to the computer. Back at the part. There’s a discrepancy! A “t” at the end of the part number!! He begins to process it, brings me back down to the cash registers. He reaches down and gets a hundred from the safe! Could we be at the end of the tale?? Oh not yet my friends. Not yet. He looks befuddled. Thanks me for my patience and finds major gray shirt. He comes back still confused. Major gray shirt advises him to give me the rest in store credit. But my beautiful white knight will not accept it! He knows I paid for it in full and will stop at nothing to get it for me! He battles the computer a bit more. Moves me over to another register. And reader? He hands me all $135.74 I had paid. Our journey has come to an end. But the fable has a lesson! Always. Always always. Keep your receipt. I thank you.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Oh I forgot to mention pulling the seals! It took quite a bit of tracking down but I rented this guy from Autozone.

It’s a pretty badass set and made pulling the seals a breeze.

I will however tell the tale of how my rental return went. Warning very long rant coming.

So first off, I rented from an Autozone I don’t normally go to but was by where I was running errands. The lady who helped me find it in the first place was super helpful since it wasn’t something listed on those sheets they have. Got it paid for and that was that. Normally I throw my receipt in with the tool but it was still sealed up so I must’ve left it in my pocket.

Fast forward to going to return it. I have to run up and get a socket from Autozone any way and I’ve pulled all the seals that needed pulling. Of course there’s literally 2 people working and 8 people in line. 20 minutes or so later I get helped by a red shirt guy. Now those who frequent the Zone know the red shirt guy is just your basic counter guy. Nothing against them but they’re usually less knowledgeable and always need a code for the the gray shirt guy. So we start the process. He asks for a receipt but I don’t have it, give him my phone number and he asks what vehicle I put it under. They never asked or told me that info. He tries his best and goes through the about 15 different profiles I have on there. Not sure why as I only have about 5 vehicles. But anyways he can’t find it. Asks gray shirt what to do. Gray shirts says it must be under a different phone number. There’s no other phone number I would’ve given. Red shirt guy starts looking again, bless his heart. Tried looking up by part number. Nothing. Tries looking it up by date, nothing. I pull up my bank account that shows the purchase. He asks for gray shirts help. Gray shirt says he’ll help me once he finishes up with current customer. Red shirt asks if he can help the next customer. I oblige.

I’m racking my brain now as to what other number I could have put it under. I, like any modern man, have but 1. My cellphone. Did I put it under my dads? No why would I do that? Or did I? Gray shirt finally finishes up and the next customer immediately walks up and needs codes read. I ask “But sir, aren’t I waiting for your help?” “Let me help him and then I’ll help you.” So wait i did he finishes up pretty quickly and we go through the same dance I did with red shirt. No dice. He asks me where I rented it and I tell him. He advises me to go back to that one. Now normally I’d push the issue because I shouldn’t have to go back to the original one, that’s the point of renting from a chain! But at this point, an hour into things it seemed like the path of least resistance.

So journey on over to the original Autozone and see the guy who rang me through originally. There was one person in his line at the checkout and about 10 in the “I have a question line”. So I wait. Customer has a return and things are looking sideways. Meanwhile customer after customer is being helped in the other line. More customers come in, more customers go out. Time is but a construct right? Finally I decide it best to venture to the “I have a question line.” There’s a mix of gray and red shirts helping out. The Zone Gods did not deem me worthy and a red shirt asks how can I help? I explain what happened at the last Autozone and he goes about processing it. Somehow he has traversed the labyrinth that is the Zone’s computer system and begins my return. Meanwhile the main gray shirt is helping a customer with a key programming. He steps outside. Red shirt has done it, pulls out the receipt and takes me to the cash register!! Thank the Zone Gods, I’ve done it!

Not so fast they say, Red shirt looks puzzled. Pulls over a minor gray shirt. Apparently the return had pulled up at over $1700! I only rented it for $135. He needs big gray shirt to void. We wait. And wait some more. Then Red shirt steps outside to find main gray shirt. Gray shirt tells him to let it time out but offers no guidance on getting me my refund. Minor gray shirt however senses a need. A need to be my white knight. He steps up to the labyrinth and begins to search. And search he does oh reader. But a light at the end of the the tunnel. He looks to the part. He looks to the computer. Back at the part. There’s a discrepancy! A “t” at the end of the part number!! He begins to process it, brings me back down to the cash registers. He reaches down and gets a hundred from the safe! Could we be at the end of the tale?? Oh not yet my friends. Not yet. He looks befuddled. Thanks me for my patience and finds major gray shirt. He comes back still confused. Major gray shirt advises him to give me the rest in store credit. But my beautiful white knight will not accept it! He knows I paid for it in full and will stop at nothing to get it for me! He battles the computer a bit more. Moves me over to another register. And reader? He hands me all $135.74 I had paid. Our journey has come to an end. But the fable has a lesson! Always. Always always. Keep your receipt. I thank you.
Oh lord. I rented a spring compressor and did not keep the receipt. Taking it back tomorrow


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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #106
Oh lord. I rented a spring compressor and did not keep the receipt. Taking it back tomorrow


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Honestly I’ve rented a bunch of things from them and this is the first big issue I’ve had. I’m sure you’ll be fine. I hope! Haha
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #108
With all the talk of red shirts I thought we were on Star Trek.
Haha nice. I would almost consider being a Star Trek red shirt than go through that again lol


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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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With all the talk of red shirts I thought we were on Star Trek.
So that's where they all go once they disappear. :toothless A black hole dumps them into "da zone". (@miesk5)
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #110
Alright so I finally started diving in on the Cummins rebuild a bit.

Started with a clean decked block.

Wish I had known it then but my engine guys had put the pistons on the rods backwards Confirm with piston Front side to the left, the short end of the rod is at the top. Otherwise you’ll be hitting the inside of the block!



Just to give you an idea of how massive this things are. Can’t beat that built in strength.

So once you have confirmed that, check your piston ring gap. Place ring in cylinder and use piston to align. Didn’t grab a picture but mine checked out good.

My mains and rods came back to me with the bearings installed but this would be a good time to install if they had not. The thrust bearing goes on Main 6.

Also ensure piston cooling nozzles are present for each piston! This is key or you will burn your pistons very quickly!


Now we can prepare for install! Oil cylinders with clean towel and 15w40 oil.

Then fill a large coffee can or something similar about 1/4 full with 15w40 oil. Dip the piston and ensure oil is covering all 3 rings.

Spin each ring around to ensure oil gets behind them. Clock each ring 120 degrees from each other making sure not to line up any openings with the pin or with any other ring.
I did mine spacing the gaps as far as possible from each other to ensure oil gets to each stage.

Next, use your piston ring compressor and tighten down until all rings are compressed. Being careful to not score the cylinder walls, place piston/rod combo into the cylinder aligning the piston. You’ll likely need to further tighten the compressor to ensure they don’t catch on the cylinder.

Then using a clean rubber end of a hammer gently tap in a circular motion until the piston is fully seated in the cylinder. Complete for all 6 pistons.

More to come.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #111
Confirm all pistons are in enough where connecting rods are clear of the cylinders. Next, slowly flip your engine upside down, guiding the rods so they don’t impact the block too hard.

Each connecting rod is stamped with a number on the rod and cap. These numbers MUST correspond!

So while removing each cap place in a small box in the order removed.

Each main cap is numbered 1-7 as well. Remove and keep in order.



Then using the assembly lube of your choice and a clean pair of gloves, grease each bearing surface.




The stuff I used. It apparently has a pretty high zinc content which helps with mating the 2 metal surfaces.


Next using a strap or a helper grab your crankshaft! This suckers heavy! About 115 pounds according to the manual. Ensure all your surfaces are clean. Brake cleaner is your friend here.

Place it in carefully, ensuring to not nick any surfaces on your rods.

Apply assembly live to each bearing cap besides number 6. On number 6 use a thin layer of 15w40 oil.

Tap each main into place. Coat the thread of each main cap bolt in 15w40 oil and hand tighten. These are torqued in a 3 sequences.

44 ft/lbs
66 ft/lbs
90 degrees

Proper Sequence


I’ll just give a quick shout out to my Harbor Freight Quinn Digital Torque Wrench.

It has 9 memory spots so I was able to save each torque specs including the 90 degrees which made this portion a breeze.

Okay so once the torque sequence has been completed, grab your Plastigage! Remove the number 6 cap and place a small portion on the crank surface. Tighten down again with the proper specs. Remove again and see where you’re at!

Mine came in right at spec .003! You’ll need some work done on your crank if it’s out of spec.

Torque back down a final time and ensure rotation by inserting bolts into the front of the crank and using a pry bar. Make sure to avoid connecting rods!

Time to measure end play. This is key for me since I’m using a manual transmission. Set up a dial indicator at the crank as close to 90 degrees as possible and pry the crank as far forward as possible. Set your indicator to 0 and pry backward. Record endplay. Repeat a minimum of 3 times and find the average. Mine came right in .006 I believe .004 to .014 is acceptable.


Still more to come!
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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Discussion Starter #112
Alright, finalizing the bottom end! Aka connecting rods. I wasn’t able to grab many pictures with all the fluids involved at this point.

It’s best to do this 2 at a time for each paired cylinders. I started at 3/4 and worked my way out. Ensure the bearing tangs are still in place and guide each rod onto the crank surface. The rod must be engaged with the surface before placing the cap on. Do not use the bolts to bring the 2 together.

Once again, you MUST ensure the number on the rods and cap are the same. Line the bearing surface with assembly lube.

Tighten each to 33 ft/lbs and then torque 90 degrees. After each rod use the pry bar on the crank to ensure ease of rotation. You should have very minimal resistance.

Repeat 6 times!

And that completes your bottom end!

The only other thing I’ve done so far is to get my gear swapped over to my new crankshaft. I made the mistake of thinking I could pull it with a 3 jaw pulled. After cussing and fussing awhile I took it to a local machine shop and long story short they swapped it over for $15!


Hoping to install that and my tappets today!
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #114
So after fully covering my camshaft in assembly line I went to install. It would go in perfectly until it started to mesh with the crank gear. I tried using a rubber mallet and it still just bound up. Started getting a little frustrated at this point and decided to follow the old “if you’re having to force it, something ain’t right” adage. After staring at the gears for a minute it finally hit me. Spot the difference?


A little hard to tell in the pictures but the gear I switched over to the cam was an old style straight gear and the crank has the slanted gears like the picture below.

So I notice all this at about 4:10pm on Friday. I check my shed for my other camshaft that is supposedly for a 24v. Quick info on that. The 24v is just like it sounds 24 valves instead on 12. Different cylinder head and injection pump but for a lot of purposes the same engine. So I run in there and low and behold the slanted gears I’d need. Quickly google the Cummins part number and it looks like it’ll work perfect

So I quickly check when the machine shop that swapped it over for me before closes. They close at 5 and aren’t open on the weekends. I quickly gather both camshafts and speed over there.

Luckily it’s right down the street and the guy who swapped it over for me before is there. After giving me a little crap, we’ll deserved, they swap it over at no charge and send me on my way! Awesome place. Highly suggest Five Star Engines for anyone in AZ.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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Discussion Starter #115
Alright so after all that I was determined to have a productive day yesterday. Judging by how sore I am today, I can confidently say I did haha.


I got a nice early start at about 8 and wanted to see how the cam fit. Spent a good 20 mins re-cleaning all the dirty assembly lube off the cam and wire brushing off the surface rust on the gear. Lubed everything up again and went to install.

Slowly inserted into the cam bushings and won’t you look at that. Perfect alignment

Helps when you have the right parts! From there I threw on my thrust plate that lines up behind the gear.

Then torque that down to 18 ft/lbs.

Total install time, 5 minutes.

So I was feeling pretty nice after that and wanted to keep riding the success wave. Next up was the oil pump. Definitely something you want to pony up for the Cummins logo on.


I put a decent amount of oil in the pump to make sure everything was lubricated up well. Next, I brake cleaned the block to make sure we had a clean start.

Torqued em down to 6 and the 18 and it was good to go.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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Discussion Starter #117
Next I slapped on the oil cooler. Another thing I wanted to have the Cummins logo on but took a chance on one from DK Engines. Looks to be American made and solid so I’m hoping it holds up well.

It came with all the gaskets included as well. Cleaned the block to ensure a good mating surface and it goes metal gasket, cooler, black gasket, spin on assembly. I did have to remove the fitting for the turbo drain line to put the bolt behind in behind it. Torqued em to 18 ft/lbs.


Next was the water pump! Cummins uses a Gates model from the factory and I was able to get it from RockAuto for about 1/4 of the price elsewhere. Love that place.

Put the o-ring in the groove.

Cleaned the surface.

Installed and torqued em to, you guessed it, 18 ft/lbs.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #118
Decided to take a break from engine things at this point. I knew the cylinder head was the next up and wanted a clear head before tackling that.

I ended up re-ordering the Noico Deadener from eBay and got it about a week earlier for the same price. I also ordered up 6 yards of 1/4” Volara closed cell foam to aid in the deadening/insulation.

I’m not gonna lie, picking the first 100 degree day of the year was probably not the greatest move haha. Some pics of the process.





Once I got in a groove it wasn’t too bad. The best way I figured out to lay it was, going in one direction, use a blunt end of a screwdriver to stick to the grooves in 3 passes. Once on the left, middle and right. Then I used a spray paint can to roll the rest. I had a seam roller but it broke within 5 minutes. I didn’t get to finish, but I’d say I’m about 1/2-3/4 through things.

Oh and also confirmed my suspicions of the Bronco being equipped with a CB radio at some point in its life.

I don’t think I mentioned it here but I did order the Dark Gray vinyl flooring from Auto Custom Carpets. I ordered it on RockAuto and got it for less than HALF the price they had it on their website. Did I mention I love that place?

It’s supposed to continue to be in the 100s this week so I’d like to get out there early and get done what I can.
 

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Decided to take a break from engine things at this point. I knew the cylinder head was the next up and wanted a clear head before tackling that.

I ended up re-ordering the Noico Deadener from eBay and got it about a week earlier for the same price. I also ordered up 6 yards of 1/4” Volara closed cell foam to aid in the deadening/insulation.

I’m not gonna lie, picking the first 100 degree day of the year was probably not the greatest move haha. Some pics of the process.





Once I got in a groove it wasn’t too bad. The best way I figured out to lay it was, going in one direction, use a blunt end of a screwdriver to stick to the grooves in 3 passes. Once on the left, middle and right. Then I used a spray paint can to roll the rest. I had a seam roller but it broke within 5 minutes. I didn’t get to finish, but I’d say I’m about 1/2-3/4 through things.

Oh and also confirmed my suspicions of the Bronco being equipped with a CB radio at some point in its life.

I don’t think I mentioned it here but I did order the Dark Gray vinyl flooring from Auto Custom Carpets. I ordered it on RockAuto and got it for less than HALF the price they had it on their website. Did I mention I love that place?

It’s supposed to continue to be in the 100s this week so I’d like to get out there early and get done what I can.
Yeah I was going to rhinoline the inside of mine but the more I think about it the more sound deadening material+vinyl carpet makes sense


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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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It’s supposed to continue to be in the 100s this week so I’d like to get out there early and get done what I can.
AZ sounds terrible. lol

I think we're about 30 degrees cooler than you right now. We'll hit triple digits eventually, but probably not until July.
 
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