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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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For the holes I used a small pointed pick. I just poked around the area where I thought the screw hole was until I found it. Yes, a few small pin holes but nothing that will matter.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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Alright I think I’m calling it finished as far as the deadening goes. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. Gonna have to figure out how to find the holes for those damn armrest brackets though. Any advice @desertbronco?

Since I wrapped that up I had my dad over to help me fab up the brackets for the Vintage Air system. Nothing crazy just used the 18 gauge I had from welding the A/C box hole. Cut the strips we needed and drilled appropriately.

Drilled a couple of holes and used some locknuts. Doesn’t look like it’s going anywhere soon but I will be keeping an ear out for vibrations once this thing actually gets moving.

That looks really good. I'm sure that you thumped on it as you went along to test the difference. The effort is worth it once your back on the road.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #143
That looks really good. I'm sure that you thumped on it as you went along to test the difference. The effort is worth it once your back on the road.
Thanks for the tip. Makes sense haha.

And I sure did. I could already tell a difference. I sure hope it pays off like you say. That was much more of an endeavor than I thought it’d be tbh. And I still gotta do the doors!
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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Thanks for the tip. Makes sense haha.

And I sure did. I could already tell a difference. I sure hope it pays off like you say. That was much more of an endeavor than I thought it’d be tbh. And I still gotta do the doors!
Mine was easy to distinguish as I just did Noico, fiberglass in the side panels then carpet. In your case, you are removing the radiator cap & rolling a whole new vehicle underneath. LOL. Stuff some insulation in the void at the top of the windsheild, too. Doors should be fairly easy. You just have to work thru the openings. Just make sure you don't cover any drain holes. Hen you put your door panels back on, use Dorman Products PN 700-337 only. Not the one's from LMC. The heads of the Dorman ones won't twist off as you twist them into the panels.
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans
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251 Posts
So my new friend :)
I read through your post - what started as a really good buy is now teared down to pieces and receiving a diesel engine.
seems to be good for range!
I like how you do it and I think we can call this fully professional!

I am thinking to put sound deadening stuff to my cab as well, but since the floors are repainted white, I am somehow not willing to ruin it.
this stuff glues like sh*t and can't be taken out without mechanical help (wire wheel or something).

Maybe first will reinstall everything without that extra stuff and then see whats the result.

Looking forward to your updates !!
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #146
Mine was easy to distinguish as I just did Noico, fiberglass in the side panels then carpet. In your case, you are removing the radiator cap & rolling a whole new vehicle underneath. LOL. Stuff some insulation in the void at the top of the windsheild, too. Doors should be fairly easy. You just have to work thru the openings. Just make sure you don't cover any drain holes. Hen you put your door panels back on, use Dorman Products PN 700-337 only. Not the one's from LMC. The heads of the Dorman ones won't twist off as you twist them into the panels.
Hahaha haven’t heard that before, but yep sure feels that way!

Appreciate the advice, I have some insulation sitting in my shed my dad gave me with his leftover butyl tape. That’ll be making its way in soon enough. Ahh much appreciated on the Dorman part number! I used the LMCs on my 79 and they broke pretty instantly. Didn’t know there was another option
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #147
So my new friend :)
I read through your post - what started as a really good buy is now teared down to pieces and receiving a diesel engine.
seems to be good for range!
I like how you do it and I think we can call this fully professional!

I am thinking to put sound deadening stuff to my cab as well, but since the floors are repainted white, I am somehow not willing to ruin it.
this stuff glues like sh*t and can't be taken out without mechanical help (wire wheel or something).

Maybe first will reinstall everything without that extra stuff and then see whats the result.

Looking forward to your updates !!
Hello and welcome to the thread my friend!

Miles per gallon is definitely the reason for the whole thing! That and learning how to do it. It’ll likely be awhile before I recoup my costs haha.

Thanks for the compliment! Professional is what I’m going for. Not sure I’m there but I’ll take it!

Yeah it’s definitely a fairly permanent choice on the deadener. I think it comes down to preference. I wasn’t a fan of the road noise when I had it running. I remember when I first picked this up and we were driving back from LA, my fiancé and I literally had to yell to hear each other haha! Probably didn’t help most of my gaskets are shot as well, but looking forward to a quieter cabin for sure!
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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Hahaha haven’t heard that before, but yep sure feels that way!

Appreciate the advice, I have some insulation sitting in my shed my dad gave me with his leftover butyl tape. That’ll be making its way in soon enough. Ahh much appreciated on the Dorman part number! I used the LMCs on my 79 and they broke pretty instantly. Didn’t know there was another option
Yup. I broke several. The Dorman ones, in addition to probably being a better product, have a oval head which I think helps when you twist them in. LMCs are round. I use JUST a small amount of silicone grease with a small pair of pliers while pushing down on the tree.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #149
Yup. I broke several. The Dorman ones, in addition to probably being a better product, have a oval head which I think helps when you twist them in. LMCs are round. I use JUST a small amount of silicone grease with a small pair of pliers while pushing down on the tree.
Awesome, that’s precisely what I’ll be doing! Thanks again
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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Discussion Starter #150
Tried my hand at painting the interior. All in all I’m really happy with how it turned out! I’ll still need to paint the actual dash and doors but this is a good start on getting the interior put back together after tearing things apart for weeks. Sorry the pictures aren’t the best. It doesn’t pick up light too well inside the cab.





And for the record, the windshield is gonna be replaced haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
I definitely went the lazy man route and only masked/painted around what will actually show. Everything that’s brown will be covered up when all is said and done.

I had to get started early out there to make sure my paint went on well. I bought everything when we were in the 70s but as mentioned before were well into the 100s already. I definitely could have bought a slow hardener rather than the medium I had buuuuuutttt I really didn’t want to spend money on something that I could get around purchasing.

I should have grabbed a picture of my gun set up for laughs. I wanted to make sure I wasn’t having any condensation getting to my gun so from my compressor I had a 50 ft hose to a water separator/desiccant filleted, to a regulator, to a fisheye filter, to the gun. I’ll definitely need to switch some things around on future projects. I had probably a foot/foot and a half of stuff coming out of the gun haha. Made spraying the bottom of the kick panels pretty difficult not gonna lie.
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans
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251 Posts
another great progress.

I need to note that for Interiour painting, basically I should do now, when most stuff is disassebled, maybe I keep the inner doors patina, just cover it with some gloss clear coat, to have it conserved.....
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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Discussion Starter #153
another great progress.

I need to note that for Interiour painting, basically I should do now, when most stuff is disassebled, maybe I keep the inner doors patina, just cover it with some gloss clear coat, to have it conserved.....
That’s exactly why I’m doing mine now. I don’t want to be taking the interior in and out multiple times.
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans
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Man.... you get me to overthink my "quick" plan to receive certification.

If I do interior I need to remove dash and steering column as well, get the car to my friend to get interior painted correctly with a gun.
..... you are right doing so, that is for sure! :) and yes my windshield can be painted like yours, as it will be taken out due to cracks :)

Didn't you do the steering lower bearing upgrade to that ebay guy one?
I ordered this as well, can it be installed whilst steering column in the car?
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #155
Man.... you get me to overthink my "quick" plan to receive certification.

If I do interior I need to remove dash and steering column as well, get the car to my friend to get interior painted correctly with a gun.
..... you are right doing so, that is for sure! :) and yes my windshield can be painted like yours, as it will be taken out due to cracks :)

Didn't you do the steering lower bearing upgrade to that ebay guy one?
I ordered this as well, can it be installed whilst steering column in the car?
Yeah I’m of the thought process of if I’m in there I might as well get it done and not worry about it for the foreseeable future. Might take a lot longer than I’d like but it’ll be worth it right? Right?! Haha

Yep on the lower bearing as well! It’s a nice piece and I highly suggest it. Eliminates any play down there. Highly suggest the Borgeson Shaft too, heard from quite a few folks it’s life changing. All that paired with a RedHead or BlueTop and you’ll have some real nice modern steering. Those last 2 are pretty pricey, I won’t lie. Always nice spending other people’s money! Haha.

And yes you’d need to uncouple the shaft from the column and then slip out the plastic piece and bolt in the billet one! 3 screws and you’re done
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans
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ok, got the borgeson shaft already - lying here.
red head gearbox is in myUS account in FL, waiting for shipment to Germany.

If I install the lower bearing, this is on the way to me as well, I need to drill 3 holes to fix it? the plastic stuff fell apart when I took the original - worn - shaft out.
Or its just getting the old bearing out and putting in the new? I think in the lower steering column there is no opening to fix the new metal bearing.

the only expensive thing was the gearbox, as I may not return mine, due to shipping cost. so I have a "old" one worth 300 bucks.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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Discussion Starter #157
ok, got the borgeson shaft already - lying here.
red head gearbox is in myUS account in FL, waiting for shipment to Germany.

If I install the lower bearing, this is on the way to me as well, I need to drill 3 holes to fix it? the plastic stuff fell apart when I took the original - worn - shaft out.
Or its just getting the old bearing out and putting in the new? I think in the lower steering column there is no opening to fix the new metal bearing.

the only expensive thing was the gearbox, as I may not return mine, due to shipping cost. so I have a "old" one worth 300 bucks.
Nice! We’ll have a very similar setup then. I went with the Bluetop.

No need to drill. At least I didn’t. There’s a hole on the bottom that’s hard to see and the other 2 screw into the spot for the plastic tabs on your stock piece. I think once you have it in front of you it’ll make sense, let me know if not!

Oh man, yeah unfortunately I’d bet you’d be paying about that to ship it back.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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388 Posts
Discussion Starter #159
Had a day off and the weather was perfect for paint so I decided to tackle painting my dash.

What I started with.






As you can see it was dusty and cracked. Started with removing all the nuts from the inside.




There’s 9 of em and you need an 11mm deep socket. Once you’ve got those out the dash pad comes right out.

I also removed the bezel around the glove box, cigarette lighter and the ash tray.

Next I moved onto cleaning up the front. Gotta love Simple Green, made quick work of the dirt and grime.

There were some screw holes and some leftover adhesive up front from what I assume was where the OEM mounting spot for the CB. Wish I still had it still and maybe some point down the line I’ll add one, but for now I wanted to weld it up and start anew.

I ground down the area around each hole to prep for welding.

Welded them up.

Then ground them smooth with a flap disc.

Think it came out pretty well!

Then one more degreasing and a tack cloth wipe down before paint.



I’ve got a new to me black dash pad I need to clean up a little and assemble everything back on the dash. I think I’ll be buying new bezel pieces as I think I’m gonna phase out the wood grain. Unpopular choice I’m sure but the plain black and chrome fit the color ache dm I’m going for much more.

Things are definitely moving a lot slower now that I’m back at work full time, but I’m trying to fit things in as I go. Wish I could be doing this full time!!
 
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