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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured that since I am working on my impulse buy of the year, I might as well as start a thread on the work I am doing and get some feedback on the progress or advice on what to do next.

The story of this rig is that I was happy with my DD (89 351W C6 EB) and working on it. Then I decided that I really liked the looks of the 78/79 gen, and for whatever reason, I started to search on CL to see what was out there and what they were going for. Anyway, short story is that I found a rig for $925 (the guy bought it from a tow yard on a lein sale) and it seemed rough, but a solid rig. I drove it home late that night...wife following me close (no registration for several years) with the Bronco sounding like there were marbles in the wheel cover hubs. Talk about freeked out as I drove home!!!!

Anyway...made it home and parked it. Then buyer's remorse set in. What the hell had I gotten myself into and what were the neighbors gonna think about this P.O.S. of a rig sitting in the middle of our nice neighborhood!

The remorse soon went away as I decided that I would breath some new life back into this old boy and get it into good shape and make it into a nice rig. So the work begins.

Here are some pictures as I brought it home that night.








 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
OH!...One other things, before I forget. A few days after I had the rig home and was doing some cleanup, I noticed that the PO had put on some "Duct Tape" on the windows and the back. I was sorta pissed, because I thought that he must have put it on there to keep the windows from rattling or because the door wouldn't stay shut or some other reason. Well...as I was cleaning, I came across a business card from someone in the DA's office, and it was the card of a Public Defender, with some dates and other stuff on it. Well...upon close inspection, the "duct tape" was actually tape that cops put on a vehicle to make sure that the evidence doesn't get messed with after a vehicle has been impounded. The "duct tape" was actually "Evidence tape" and you can see some of the letters very clearly when you look at it. If you look at the second and third pictures above, you can see the three stripes on the driver and passenger door, where it went from the cab to the door. Gotta wonder where the guy is now.....
't
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok...so as I mentioned, that on the way home, I heard a horrible metallic rattling sound. I figured it was something in the rear end or maybe the brakes. So the first thing I did was dig into the brakes. I planned on doing a full brake job...hardware, cylinder, drums, and shoes. I had never done such a thing, but HEY>>>>I have an engineering degree..I should be able to do a simple brake job. Anyway, I found out that the sound was the center hub of the American Racing rims, that was the wrong one. It was so lose in the center hole, that it rattled around like a dinner bell. So...I just left it off. So, on with the brake job....the guide that keeps the E-Brake cable to the outside, had disinigrated and the parts were rolling around the brake drum. Hence the reason I had no E Brake. When I took apart the cyclinders, the inside looked like someone had crammed them full of Mississippi mud. It was a wonder that they worked at all...maybe they didn't.


Here is the piece that was broken off inside the brake drum

It looks like I have a rear axle seal leaking...that will have to wait for another day
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey Norfolkff - I have illusions of making it "perfect", but quite frankly, I really don't know where this build is going. My first priority is to make sure that it a sound rig that can pass California Smog. I have done a pretty complete tune up on it (oil...filter...plugs...wires...dist cap....pcv....oil cap...and air filter) and replaced a couple of vacuum hoses. I still need to replace a few more. Once I get it to pass smog, and am sure that there is nothing major wrong with the drive train, I am going to start to work on the body. As you can see...the paint is shot (I am trying to figure out whether it came from the factory as a tu-tone or if a PO did the paint job. It looks a little sloppy in places and I can see paint drips in a few places) and there is some body work that needs to be done, before I get it painted. I would like to do all that work myself, since I have never done anything like this before. I give myself a year to make this into a "head turner". I also need to replace the racetrack trip, because a lot of the pieces are bent in some places. I started taking it off today, so I can figure out how to replace it or take the trim off of a donor vehicle that I plan on buying for parts. Once I get the outside looking great, I will complete the redo of the inside. I want to put carpet in it, new seats and replace the dashpad and the door panels. I started doing some clean up today...which I will cover later on. In the end..I want to make this into a presentable vehicle that is fun to drive and doesn't look like a POS. I have set a total of $5,000 as a budget for the restore. I am sure that I am going to go over that, but I hope to stay pretty close to that mark. I will try and make a list of stuff that I want to do over the next year and post it.....Thank!
 

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Nice work on the brake job and if and when you get to the front brakes look into replacing the rotors with some drilled&slotted from JBG. I saw a drastic improvement when I did it. If you want to find out what the Bronco came with from factory call FMC at 8003923673 and they can provide a build sheet for a fee. Can't say for certain but if you do most of work and really hunt for your parts you can stay close to the 5k for just a resto minor mod. Good Luck and keep us posted.
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the number. I do want to get a build sheet for a couple of my rigs. I started the process of tearing into my front end a little. On the "To Do" list for this weekend was to take apart the hubs and replace/repack the front bearings. I went to the auto parts store yesterday, and purchased the spindle nut remover tool (more on that later), Timkin inner and outter bearings, grease, silicone spray and white grease. The silicone spray and grease were for the back and side windows. After I did the brake job, I noticed that I needed to replace the seals on the windows, to prevent any rain from running into the tailgate or doors. The doors are on hold right now, because once I realized that I needed to tear apart the door to replace the window seals, I figured I might as well as order a complete set and replace all the seals and stuff since the vent window was out and the panel was pulled off. The back window is pretty much done, but the window moved slowly before replacing the seals. Once the new seals were on, the window would hardly move. I figured the motor was shot. I used the silicone spray on the seals, and lubed the gears up really well inside the door, and now it works almost like new. I will end up replacing the motor pretty soon, but for now, I can get the window up and down with ease.

Since I use the tailgate as a sort of workbench and keep my tools in the back, I am always running back there to get tools. On one of my trips back, I noticed that the vinyl flooring was "puffed up" in a few places. I wasn't really worried about rust, because other than the surface rust, the body is in great shape and there isn't any major rust or cancer. Just for grins, I decided to check under the vinyl an see how much "dirt" there was under the flooring. I was shocked to see that there was a ton of moisture, dirt, wet padding, and rust under the vinyl. I then started to pull out all the padding and vinyl, to get it to dry out. I figure that either the back window was down from being in the inpound yard, the seals were leaking and getting the bed wet, or the top is leaking. Still need to figure it out, but for now, I might have eliminated a couple of the options.
Here is how it looked:


I got out my shop vac and a chisle, and started to scrape up the dirt and padding, as well as try to scrape off any rust. Luckily, the rust is only on the surface, with a little bit of pitting in a few places. I guess I am going to take it down to bare metal by either sand blasting or using a grinding wheel....what do ya think.
Anyway...after about an hour of cleaning, I got it looking pretty good.
Here is how it sits now....



I plan on putting down carpet, once I get it all cleaned up and painted. I am glad I caught it when I did, because this really wasn't on my radar screen and could have turned into a much bigger problem.
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK...need some help on this next step...had a project put on hold today, because apparantly I am a dumbass and can't figure out how to disassemble the front locking hub. In addition to that, I can't figure out for the life of me how to use the spindle nut removal tool. (I know it is really a big socket, but I can't make it fit). So, I started out by removing the six screws that hold on the cap and locking ring on the outside. I think used a pair of locking ring pliers to remove the locking ring. Here is a picture of what I pulled out....

From what I have read in my Chiltons and Haynes manuals, I need to remove this locking ring, that is inside. Here is a picture of it...

How in the heck do you get it out? I can get a screw driver under it, and pry it up, but I can not get it to come out. Is there a special tool to get it out. I think that is holding up the whole show. Also, here is the spindle nut tool....it doesn't fit. I believe I have a Dana 44 (although I can not find it stamped on the casing...but it is a 10 bolt) There was about an inch of "gunk" on the diff. housing and all underneath. I spent about an hour using a degreaser and the trusty chisel, scraping crap off. I finally was able to peal back the layers of gunk to see a tag on the housing and some numbers stamped into the long tube. I could not find the model number molded into the casting anywhere. The tool that they sold me was for a Dana 44, but like I said, I can't make it fit. Maybe I am just a dumbass?

Here are some shots underneath and the numbers I have found...





I can't work on it for the next few days, but I would love to be able to replace the bearings and replace the brake pads on the front. Then I can do another bleeding on the brake system and be done with the brakes and some of the front end work.
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks! I am not so sure that the color combo came from the factory that way. Not too sure, which is why I want to get a build sheet. This is a Custom, which I believe did not come standard as a Tu-Tone, and wasn't supposed to have the race track trim. Some of the lighter colored paint is pretty thick and has some runs in it. I can't believe that it would have come from Ford that way. I also suspect that the truck may have been in an accident. The front quarter panel is a little off. This might just be an adjustment that needs to be made on the front panel. If you look at the passenger side front, you can see that some of the trim doesn't match up perfectly.


If you blow up the second picture and go to the bottom trim, you can see that it is off by about 1/2"
When I look inside the crack between the door and the front panel, and compare it to the driver's side...all looks ok. Like I said...maybe this is just an adjustment that can be taken care of by loosening some of the bolts that hold the front quarter panel in place. Any advice on this?

I plan on changing the color. Keeping the cream colored paint, but maybe going with an off red or a light green color, and keeping it a two toned paint job.
Also, the fiberglass top is looking a little rough....The filler that is between the seams has broken down and is falling out. What is the proper way to restore a fiberglass top?
 

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until you get the rest of the lock out off you cant use the spindle socket. i usually use a pic set to get that locking ring out. it has to come up with one and start it out with another.
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Rusty...Man..I tried and tired and tried. I guess I will have to try more. I could pry one end up, and even get a couple of screwdrives around the outside edge, but could never get a grip or anything to get behind it and pry it out. Since you have done this before and you have a 79...is that the right spindle socket? I never could get it to lock into anything on the hub...it looks like the "prongs" are in the right place. Does yours have 4 prongs? Mine is made by Performance Tool part number 1271. Is that the right tool?
 

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its the right one, you just have to get all the rest of that hub out of the way. Work from the ends of the lock ring. Get an end raised up, put another small flat screwdriver under it. then take the first screwdriver and pull the end out and spin it around popping all the lock ring out.

Should take 10 seconds but I have had them be stubborn and take 10 minutes.
 

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If u put brakes on the back and did not fix that leak it will ruin the brake shoes. I have a link for a repair but it is at home.

As for the lock hub those spicers u have are super strong. Stronger than anything made today. Just a little harder to get out of the hub. Use a few small screw drivers to remove that outter snap ring. Maybe even a seal pick which has a hook on it to pull on it.
 

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How much was it to get registered?
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey Jopes...It was about $350 to pay back registration fees and get current. The PO needed some money for Christmas and didn't have the $$ to put into it. I figured that I am into this thing for about $1,300 as a purchase price and current registration. As far as the rear seal, I "think" that is what it is. I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet. I wasn't too sure if the cylinders were leaking now, or if it was a previous leak, or what it was exactly. At any rate, I knew that I needed to fix the brakes for what little I was driving it, and I could do the rear axle seal, once it passed smog, if it was needed. I don't plan on driving it a lot until I get the whole drive train inspected and taken care of.

Thanks Rusty and Jopes for the advice. I will give it another try in a few days. Just knowing that it does come out (starting to wonder) and that I have the right tool to remove the nut helps a lot.
 
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