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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #361
@simrokkzz i am glad to see you pulling your engine with that hoist. I just purchased the same lift last week and received it 2 days ago. I was worried it was going to be to short to pull the engine out of the engine bay. But granted, my front clip is still in.
It worked fine!
However if you have the front clip installed I am not sure the engine can be lifted high enough, maybe it can work if you put the lift on the 2nd last position (1 ton mark) - for me it was no problem on the 1.5 ton mark, same is planned to be used to put the 460 in.

the gearbox should be been rebuild late 2009, so I am still not sure if I need to open it.
Leaking oil at the neutral safety switch, but changing that o ring can be done from below.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #362
Congrats on getting it out. (y) Looks like your cherry picker (engine crane) worked well in spite of all the trouble getting all of its parts.

So... I gotta ask. What are you going to do with the old engine? More specifically, the exhaust manifolds, that heat stove that bolts to the right side manifold, or any other smog related equipment?
good question you raise up there.
No plan on the old 400 yet.
Maybe I put in on a pallet when we re in the new house and try to mess with it until it runs again?
There is no smog stuff left on my car/engine.
It was missing mostly everything of it already when it was shipped from US.

Do you need the cover?
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #363
Painted the firewall mostly - mix of brush and role... needs a 2nd layer for sure as it’s not evenly done...

no pictures as work in progress

the same time there was the 24 Hour Race at the nurbuergring Race Track-I streamed a lot and watched at least 10 hours of the race
BMW won, no Porsche luck, As one of their best teams - Manthey - had to step back after 3 positive COVID results after 24 hour race in LeMans
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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8,130 Posts
good question you raise up there.
No plan on the old 400 yet.
Maybe I put in on a pallet when we re in the new house and try to mess with it until it runs again?
There is no smog stuff left on my car/engine.
It was missing mostly everything of it already when it was shipped from US.

Do you need the cover?
That sounds cool. It would be fun to see you get it sorted out & running again.

Yes I'm looking for a heat stove for the exhaust manifold. I'm trying to get parts together for a 79 to pass smog in california. If you decide to part with it, I'd sure like hear about it.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #365
That sounds cool. It would be fun to see you get it sorted out & running again.

Yes I'm looking for a heat stove for the exhaust manifold. I'm trying to get parts together for a 79 to pass smog in california. If you decide to part with it, I'd sure like hear about it.
Hey Good Morning.

I can try to disassemble it, screws are a bit rusty, but apart from there you can have it.
remember I am in Germany and shipping will be a bit more expensive, but we can work that out - no problem.

Just send me a private message and we talk about details.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #366
12,95 at ebay, shipping to myUS in FL is free.

!!
that one never reached my home.
same for the OEM cigarette fire assembly which I got sent in from a member here...

I am really unhappy, as the lighter would ve been nice, first a present from somebody over here, 2nd oem part.... as the replacement from JBG does not fit (too small in diameter).....

currently having a claim discussion with myUS....
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #367
small update

Rockauto delivered a set of new hood hinges a week ago, not sure I wrote this down.
Yesterday my DUFF TUFF rear axle bar arrived, pictures soon.

but look what I build, pretty funny -
I went into a building market to get 2 roller boards used for moving furniture (each can carry 250 kg) and put the engine on it.
So I have it movable easy and fixed...
just need to build a lawn mower around it now :)
168026


then here is the first layer of paint dried through, I will apply 2nd layer on firewall when I take off brake booster during next weekend.
the frame rails are painted twice, look good and fresh, however at some spots I did not work well enough, at least for my own demand.
The parts of the cab I scrubbed heavily look much better than before as well.

168027
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #368
With the Duff Tuff package there arrived the non ac heater box from @79broncoowner !! Thanks again!

Yesterday I could not wait and installed the fresh sway bar links with red energy bushings, looks great on the fresh paint of the frame.
Today I will clean the front sway bar (standard oily dirt debris mixtures hardened out) and repaint it black.
Tomorrow I will re-install the sway bar and complete it with new red bushings.
pictures to follow....

Then the only remaining bushings is the C wedge buhsings, which you see in last posts picture, being orange/yellowish, but partly broken.
think to tackle this on saturday.
Then bushings are done on front axle.

short list:
buy engine crane --- DONE (arrived)
get out 400motor --- DONE
get rid of big a/c heater box --- DONE
put in metal cover to close the hole in firewall --- DONE
clean engine bay --- started
paint everything nicely black --- started - partly first and 2nd layer done
prepare for hydroboost
get C6 overhauled with a friend --- no need, was done in 2010 - will keep it for the moment
when there is no load on front axle I would like to change all rubber vs. urethane stuff (radius arms + stabilizer) - started, completed shortly
install electric fuel pump setup --- comes with SNIPER
get the brackets for quad shock fabricated and install quad shocks finally --- under construction
exchange front radiator body mounts
thinking about a 2inch lift --- ?which?
 

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894 Posts
With the Duff Tuff package there arrived the non ac heater box from @79broncoowner !! Thanks again!

Yesterday I could not wait and installed the fresh sway bar links with red energy bushings, looks great on the fresh paint of the frame.
Today I will clean the front sway bar (standard oily dirt debris mixtures hardened out) and repaint it black.
Tomorrow I will re-install the sway bar and complete it with new red bushings.
pictures to follow....

Then the only remaining bushings is the C wedge buhsings, which you see in last posts picture, being orange/yellowish, but partly broken.
think to tackle this on saturday.
Then bushings are done on front axle.

short list:
buy engine crane --- DONE (arrived)
get out 400motor --- DONE
get rid of big a/c heater box --- DONE
put in metal cover to close the hole in firewall --- DONE
clean engine bay --- started
paint everything nicely black --- started - partly first and 2nd layer done
prepare for hydroboost
get C6 overhauled with a friend --- no need, was done in 2010 - will keep it for the moment
when there is no load on front axle I would like to change all rubber vs. urethane stuff (radius arms + stabilizer) - started, completed shortly
install electric fuel pump setup --- comes with SNIPER
get the brackets for quad shock fabricated and install quad shocks finally --- under construction
exchange front radiator body mounts
thinking about a 2inch lift --- ?which?
Man youre really putting in the work


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #370
Thanks Canuck!
Need to do progress - I want to take the dogs for a ride :)

plan was to have it on the road until LATEST end of July, now it may be end of November... potentially later.

here‘s the sway bar drop link passenger side, copy paste driver side.
F6FA847F-B7F6-49CB-93D4-872B060C8597.jpeg

Sway bar and brackets before painting (Derek from Vice Grip Garage would call it braketree or something)

4ED8F2D6-4DA2-4530-98AD-141F46133178.jpeg

more shortly,all stuff is painted already, should be able to install it tomorrow (Friday)
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #373
Why did you choose to go with Battleborn for the hdyroboost instead of Hydratech or Wild Horses?
hydratech has delivery times of 70-90 days, and even I contacted them early August delivery in November would have been a huge risk.
Battleborn has it all in stock and send it out next day.
I did not check with wildhorses in the end, as I got a good price with Jacob from Battleborn.
I want to come the unit in with the engine in the crate box so I save up international shipping.

in the end i have nothing against other makes parts, but why use GM parts (Hydratech) if Motorcraft is right available (battleborn)
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #374
Some update pictures, not a lot, taking it a bit slow at this moment...

2-3 layers of metal protection paint (well, all paint does this basically...)
unfortunately it’s still not having an even appearance:

DB4416D7-B34F-4A77-A098-7D3492B1D4DF.jpeg

F19BD166-2116-4B24-A65C-4D8D4D8BCF60.jpeg

2nd pic I unwrapped the harness and took off the gearbox filler tube and gearbox vacuum pipe (both will be are painted silver)
I painted the oil cooler lines silver as well...

here’s the sway bar ready to go back on, but I will just install after have the c Bushings are done... ( which is quite some work, but the same time I get the springs powder coated and surely sand blasted all the crap off)

CF0C9DBC-CDB0-4EF7-8467-2A08CAF15A86.jpeg
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #375
Hey Guys
some updates...
replaced the radius arms bushings and during this I took of the springs.
Its replaced with another light weight motorsport parts - WOOD ! :)

the springs, lower spring plates will be sandblasted and poweder coated during the week.
Finally made it to the fabrication company to get the missing quad shock brackets made - hopefully as well until end of the week.

here's the pictures:

assortment of tools, to get the lower spring brackets unbolted

168312


cleaned out really well...

168313


As the metal brake line is sqeezed to "flat" at 2 spots, it will be replaced during hydroboost assembly.
The front C bracket with the hole for the shock is finally assembled - got it from @quinault for free !!!

168314



And here is the good old wooden spring assembly:

168315
 

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hydratech has delivery times of 70-90 days, and even I contacted them early August delivery in November would have been a huge risk.
Battleborn has it all in stock and send it out next day.
I did not check with wildhorses in the end, as I got a good price with Jacob from Battleborn.
I want to come the unit in with the engine in the crate box so I save up international shipping.

in the end i have nothing against other makes parts, but why use GM parts (Hydratech) if Motorcraft is right available (battleborn)
I was thinking that using factory parts would probably be better than not. Especially since you are overseas. The Battleborn setup has been looking better and better at this point, too me.
 

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Registered
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894 Posts
Hey Guys
some updates...
replaced the radius arms bushings and during this I took of the springs.
Its replaced with another light weight motorsport parts - WOOD ! :)

the springs, lower spring plates will be sandblasted and poweder coated during the week.
Finally made it to the fabrication company to get the missing quad shock brackets made - hopefully as well until end of the week.

here's the pictures:

assortment of tools, to get the lower spring brackets unbolted

View attachment 168312

cleaned out really well...

View attachment 168313

As the metal brake line is sqeezed to "flat" at 2 spots, it will be replaced during hydroboost assembly.
The front C bracket with the hole for the shock is finally assembled - got it from @quinault for free !!!

View attachment 168314


And here is the good old wooden spring assembly:

View attachment 168315
Looks good my friend, what springs/shocks did you use? I need to redo all my bushings and suspension components like you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #378
Looks good my friend, what springs/shocks did you use? I need to redo all my bushings and suspension components like you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey!
I use Rancho 9000 XL shocks - adjustable in front. rear some normal Ranchos, but I may upgrade them as well.
It looks to me like stock springs, or at least I do not see any drop brackets for the track bar or something, which would indicate it has a lift.

was thinking to buy the rough country 2.5 inch lift, but will sort my diffs first, as its definitively different rations inside front and rear.
Plus when the more heavy 460 is in, I need to verify hight, maybe I need more lift in front than rear.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
Joined
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #379
Update time once again....

What did I do on Friday:
I went back to the fabrication shop to get my bent metal for the lower shock mounts - front-front and front-radius arm:

205.jpg

I then took the angle grinder cut this out, drilled holes with a stage drill bit and painted them with rust protection black


206.jpg 207.jpg

I assembled them on saturday morning, but had to modify to the bracket for the c cap on the passenger side. Basically I should have told the bending guys to mirror the existing part, but well, angle grinding on saturday morning and the smell of fresh metal is not too bad at all :cool:

here is it assembled with fresh A2 stainless hardware
208.jpg 210.jpg 209.jpg

Looking very good from my point of view, so only remaining is the track bar cleaning and bushing change, but the bushings in there are still flexy and not broken.

What else was done Saturday:
Last week you remember me installing wood springs, due to the metal ones and hardware around (lower spring plates, springs, holding parts) were at powder coating.
I got them back on Thursday afternoon, so I wanted to finally complete quad shock at front:

211.jpg 217.jpg

It really looks great, all freshened up, partly even glossy :) too bad most of it will be hidden below or underneath something.

Then on Sunday morning I went out and spent something like 2 hours on the front clip, I sourced a new passenger side metal inner fender, as mine was broken badly under the battery tray, there its even rusty on front mask and hardware, maybe a battery exploded once or at least leaked the hell out of acid....

212.jpg 213.jpg

in the next post I will continue, as 10 pictures are reached here.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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755 Posts
Discussion Starter #380
214.jpg 215.jpg 216.jpg

I need new nuts and even want new screws, found them in the LMC catalogue yesterday evening, and I need a new plastic inner fender on passenger side as well, its broken at too many areas. quite costly, LMC has them for 139 USD a piece.....

on top I was cleaning some parts Saturday with a wire wheel bit, my glove moved into it and I scratched my left hand badly....


next is open rear diff, count ring and pinion gears to verify what is in, then order a new ring and pinion set for front, or is there a locking diff that would make sense in the D44?

--> any recommendation is absolutly welcome.
 
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