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Discussion Starter #1
hey all. im new here and fairly new to the 2nd generation broncos. ( ive been dealing with early broncos mainly) i have a 76 bronco and the other half has really fell in love with it and has got the itch to learn how to wheel. well i didnt feel comfortable getting her a eb to learn in (mainly due to wheelbase) so i opted for a 78-79 bronco. well i finally found a really good deal on a 79 bronco so i decided to buy it for her for christmas. i knew right off the bat there was something wrong but the rest of the bronco was in too good shape to pass up at that price. ($1700) well i found out the rear end had some bad bearings but that was a easy and cheap fix. alot of the vibration went away but there is still some while on the gas or cruising. here are the stats on the bronco
79 bronco xlt
400/c6/205
d44 open/9inchlimited slip
4 inch suspension lift and 3 inch body lift
35 inch thornturds (which will be replaced soon enough)
oh and the other half has working a/c :shocked

my observations
rear driveshaft doesnt have a cv joint but the u joints seem to be in good shape.
it does have axle wedges to rotate the pinion up.

from what i know from early broncos is that there should be a cv joint in the driveshaft. also with only 4 inches of lift there shouldnt be a need for axle shims. help me out here guys what should my 1st step be to get rid of this driveline vibration?

oh yeah. i know youre just dieing to see a pic of her christmas present arent ya? :rofl:

 

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You are correct..there should be a CV in the rear driveshaft. That might be the entire problem. I wish I could figure out why so many have gotten 'lost' along the way somehow. We've re-converted quite a few back the way they belong here at the shop over the years.

Fix the driveshaft first but do not automatically assume that no axle shims are required to get the final shaft alignment correct..verify. Some lift kits do need them, even for only 4". Since you are already an EB guy, you know what the alignment is supposed to be..it's exactly the same for the FS.

Very nice truck BTW:beer
 

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Sneaky Ba$tard
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Post a pic of the axle shims and driveshaft if ya can.... There should be shims from the factory on the rear, maybe someone swapped'em out or something... The shaft should have a Double caradan joint at the tcase output. If not someone did some swapping. Depending on which tranny you've got I may have an extra driveshaft laying around you can have.


Oh, and welcome to the site---- Fog
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hey foghorn nice to see you. i doubt you remember me but you still owe me a drink sometime :thumbup

ill see if i can snag a pic of the the driveline for ya guys but im pretty sure it will be tomorrow because i probably wont get off work til after dark.


oh almost forgot. hey foghorn. the bronco has a c6 with a 205 transfer case
 

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Yea, I think I remember you...... Beers in the fridge as always... I've been rotating the stock regularly so you won't get a stale one...

I'm pretty sure I've got the right one... We'll just have to measure it up to be 100% sure....
Fog
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the other half will be happy to hear that. shes already :cry because i wont let her drive it till i get a few things fixed on it for her. let me know when you get some free time. the bronco is driveable so it shouldnt be an issue to bring it by and do some measurements and what not.
 

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About any evening this week... Going duck hunting Sat maybe Sun so the weekend is sketchy----Fog
 

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Don't forget about the yoke on the T-case too..all the 'conversions' I've fixed required the yoke be changed back to the CV type with the different bolt spacing than the straps use. I'm not sure if the regular u-joint straps work on the CV yoke..never tried that. Being a '79 you should have the 1330 rather than the 1310 ujoint size..I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ill have to keep that in mind i wasnt aware of that. i think a new yoke is about 30ish bucks. but id prefer to not have to buy a new one if i dont have to. thanks for the heads up
 
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