[BikerPepe`]

if you've got the time, money and skills... that's a great price for a good start.
a good pressure washing will likely bring to light a lot of good and probably some more bad.
look forward to your build. :thumbup

 

[BikerPepe`]

******* flower pots! :toothless

 

[BikerPepe`]

looks like a great project in the making. I forgot if you mentioned before but looking at those giant wheel wells... do you plan to lift or just rock 40's on that thing as it is? :toothless

 

[BikerPepe`]

safe enough. many run without them altogether. :shrug
congrats on the parts rig. going full 8 lug?

 

[BikerPepe`]

sway bars minimize body roll and generally apply to high speed cornering. removing them allows for more suspension articulation.
removing them will make a noticeable change but off-road performance gets a bump, so it's a trade off.
an extension may have been welded onto yours in attempt to get the best of both. :shrug

 

[BikerPepe`]

the jeepers use them to go from on to off-road fairly quick and easy but I'm pretty sure you'd have to fab something up for our old rigs.

 

[BikerPepe`]

:stupid
been quietly following along out of interest but not a big fan of diesels (after sitting on my Hog smelling the nasty and getting rolled coal all over myself and my bike from young punks with big truck-nutz will do that)... anyway, I had the same problem with a borrowed engine stand recently. I used the cherry picker to lift it up just enough to place a few blocks under the front foot to level it out while I was working on it. I couldn't use the wheels to move it around that way... so I had to do it where I was comfortable leaving it to work on, but I didn't have to worry about flipping it over and watching it slide out of the engine mount and on to the floor, upside down. Just a quick, temporary jiffy-fix... fyi. :thumbup

might be a waste to mention, since you have a bar/handle going through the spin mount but still... couldn't hurt to mention.

 

[BikerPepe`]

I've never tried it but I've read some good stuff on electrically charged water cleaning rusted stuff up really well. :shrug
sorry... I'm a mechanical moron, so just keeping up and trying to learn a little.

 

[BikerPepe`]

just one of many, many vids on this out there.

 

[BikerPepe`]

not bad at all. I'll have to keep that EvapoRust stuff in mind. :thumbup

 

[BikerPepe`]

isn't that what they make duct tape for? :toothless

 

[BikerPepe`]

Hey man... you need to replace that fuel pump. The fitting sucks. :toothless

 

[BikerPepe`]

that does make much more sense. stuff happens. get 'er done! :thumbup

 

[BikerPepe`]

Just a few weeks back, I'd have snapped that carb right up. Already got another member to hook me up though, so no need now. Shouldn't last too long though. Good luck on re-selling the 6bt and congrats on the new gig that needs a thicker wallet. Score! :rockon

Watching your thread, I really want me some metal working equipment. :toothless opc1:

 

[BikerPepe`]

Bummer on the project but I understand physical problems just taking it right out of a guy all too well.
Hope it gets better for ya. I'd consider keeping if you can and just pacing yourself but I understand if that's not really an option.

If I was looking to sell and he was looking to buy, I'd be happy as a pig in sh!t to work with El Kabong, fwiw.

 

[BikerPepe`]

It was a good little run while it lasted. I'm envious you got to shake "Mr. Kabong's" hand... social distance blah, blah.

I stuck around while I was driving a damn V6 AT Yota, ffs. You're good. ?

 

[BikerPepe`]

Glad to see it go to good owner. I'm looking at cutters/welders right now.
I only have 110v right now. Will the plasma cutter work on rusty floorpans on 110v or do I need 220 for that?

Not to get too far off-topic here but I just recently purchased a Hobart 210 MVP (mvp = 110 or 220) and installed a 220 plug for it off my box in the shop. There's a thread on it if you care. I haven't used it a lot... but so far, I've welded 1/4" braces over my plow mounts a-frame where it was cracking, then turned around and used it to rebuild some thin gauge metal on the Bronco tailgate skin. Versatile as hell with a range like that, portable as it can still use 110 easily in a pinch and for another $100 you can get a line attachment for Aluminum work. Purchased through CyberWeld.com and got a hood included. I also picked up a 10 ft. HD extension cord through them. With a cheap Harbor Freight weld cart, I'm set for most anything I'll ever need. (knock on wood)

Lots of good input on other options in the thread too... Advice on "cheap" welder shopping...

 

[BikerPepe`]

You said it... it's awn! ?