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Need help guys... trying to buy weatherstrip for my cap on my 79. I see three pieces and from what I already purchased, the cap will not slide all the way forward and is prohibiting the alignment pins from doing their job. Not sure what I’m doing wrong. Any input/pictures are welcome!!!

I’ve purchased the “flat” piece of weatherstrip that goes on the front of the cap.

I’ve purchased the piece that goes in the channel around the cab of the truck.

I guess the weatherstrip I have an issue with is the strip that goes around the cab of the truck where the seam is.

I don’t think the prior owner used the correct weatherstripping.
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Yo Gearhead1981
To bump your issue Up, here is some info from bwautoparts.com who is probably out-of-business,, sadly..
78-79 Broncos



by bwautoparts.com
REMOVABLE ROOF PANEL SEALS Diagrams, 78-96 w/Ford part numbers;
D8TZ-9851322-A Removable Roof Front Seal On fiberglass roof;
See Removable Roof Front Seal - On Fiberglass Roof - 1978-96 Ford Bronco - Product Details Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts for Trucks, Broncos, Cars, Tractors and Cushman Scooters

D8TZ-98513C22-PR Removable Roof Side Panel Seals on 78-79;

D8TZ-9854732-A Front Roof Rear Seal on metal roof on 78-79;
See Removable Roof Front Seal - On Metal Cab Roof - 1978-88 Ford Bronco - Product Details Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts for Trucks, Broncos, Cars, Tractors and Cushman Scooters

E1TZ-98422A20-A Back Window Glass Lower Side Run, RH or LH on 78-96


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Source: by bwautoparts.com via web.archive.org
Bronco Catalog 2003
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G,
Miesk is All Knowing and sees all and I respect him,

i have a post here some where but you need-

the two seals at the top of the roof- cab & top. Try Dennis Carpinter.

the top of the bed sides (pair)

Plus what whatever you need for the back window.

AND I bought a tub of food grade silicone grease (amazone) and some 1" cheapo brushes.

I brushed ALL the seals with LOTS of the silicone lube on all the parts and the top mostly oozed into place.

before you put any bolts into place, use your back to lift/twist the top into place. If you get the two top seals correct, the top will slip into place. You'll feel it drop into the spot. Leave the top loose, try to sqyare it up. brush lube on the rear window rubber. run the window up.down a couple of times, Put the biolts in. Lube the bolts and tourque to 5-7 LBS ONLY. No MORE.
It DOES make a diff when torqueing, Don't just tighten, I found out the hard way. Torque them.

This should get the top squared on the body.
If you need the seals for the rear window, thats another topic with afew steps.
 

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G,
Miesk is All Knowing and sees all and I respect him,

i have a post here some where but you need-

the two seals at the top of the roof- cab & top. Try Dennis Carpinter.

the top of the bed sides (pair)

Plus what whatever you need for the back window.

AND I bought a tub of food grade silicone grease (amazone) and some 1" cheapo brushes.

I brushed ALL the seals with LOTS of the silicone lube on all the parts and the top mostly oozed into place.

before you put any bolts into place, use your back to lift/twist the top into place. If you get the two top seals correct, the top will slip into place. You'll feel it drop into the spot. Leave the top loose, try to sqyare it up. brush lube on the rear window rubber. run the window up.down a couple of times, Put the biolts in. Lube the bolts and tourque to 5-7 LBS ONLY. No MORE.
It DOES make a diff when torqueing, Don't just tighten, I found out the hard way. Torque them.

This should get the top squared on the body.
If you need the seals for the rear window, thats another topic with afew steps.
Whats the purpose of the silicone grease if I may ask? I just replaced all topper/door weatherstripping. Would it help with hard to roll down windows/power window?


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I used the grease (food grade) brushed on the seals to allow the two top seals and the side rail seals to slide into place to help (in my mind) the seals to not pinch or deflect or hang up as I put the top back on. In my case, I could actually feel the top sorta center itself as it settled onto the seals. Plus it was easy to push/pull to align it to start the bolts. The bolts actually have a torque spec of 5-7 ft pds. I put a bit of the same grease on the ends of the rail seals that touches the back window and it made a difference is going up/down. Don't use too much as it can be messy. There is also a dry silicone spray lube available. For the back window, there are two adjustments as the window travels in a arch. 1. The guides in the tailgate which have a 1/2" bolt that you can loosen a little & 2. The upper seal in the top. Remove the trim pieces and loosen the 8 (i think) nuts a bit to allow the seal frame to move front to back a little. Raise the window and it will sort of self align the top seal. Leave the window up, tighten up those 8 nuts. Lower the window. Open the TG, tighten the 2 1/2" bolt in the tailgate. Lots of little stes. It you're removing the top, the window will want to be adjusted.
 
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