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Discussion Starter #21
Radius arm frame side bracket and crossmember. I am planning to use a torque arm that will terminate into this crossmember. I also will have a skid plate mounting here.
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I really wasn't sure how durable this assembly needs to be, 3/16" 1x4 rec tube, across, 1/4" plate up the outside and a ballistic link bracket, 3 passes of 7018 at every weld. 4 x 3/8s bolts into the side of the frame and 2 x 1/2" bolts into the bottom of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
This is how it's setting now. Axle is forward about 3/4 in but I can adjust it back if I need. I'm also going to shorten the top link a few inches for additional clearance.
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The next hurdle. Mounting the front coils. The superduty lower mounts are 2 3/8" outside of the centerline of the 79 bronco frame side buckets. I can build new frameside buckets that are a additional
2 3/8 out from the frame but my concern is the torque on the frame rails. Any opinions out there? Should I be ok? Another option is coilovers but of course not money! The superduty D60 factory castings and brackets do create a few challenges for the lower mounts. Open to suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
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Ignore the plumb bob, it's there as a distraction! Lol. I battled with how to do this the easiest, cleanest most cost effective way and I failed! BUT it'll work. I cut the castings that retain the bottom of the factory superduty coil.
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These lower coil cups are from James duff, ok build quality, 1/4"plate on the bottom. The plan is to weld them to the superduty coil mount inboard 1/2" to help get the coil spring mounted plumb.
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Discussion Starter #24
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The bronco coil left to right center to center is just under 5" narrower than the superduty. James Duff builds these coil buckets marketed toward the early bronco, ranger, explorer full width axle swap, they are built to mount the coil 2"outside of the factory buckets. Ballistic also sells a adjustable coil bucket that may have been cheaper.
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I did not want to modify the frame by welding or cutting on it. You can see that I have the coil bucket clamped above the bottom of the frame by about 2 1/2". Trying to get the ride height and rake correct without any weight on the frame, it's really a wild ass guess how it will set finished with weight. The lower mounts, mount the bottom of the coil higher than a bronco D44 and I am not installing the wedge in the rear with the JBG 6"deavers.
A installed JBG superflex 7in spring height of 20in it "should" set level.
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Goal is to bolt the coil bucket on the frame and reinforce it for the odd installed height. Bent 1/4 plate for the back, 2 x 3/16 flat bar for the gussets on the sides.
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Not the cheapest, fastest, most durable but it'll work! Still cheaper than coilovers and should function decently!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Been hammering away! 4bt mounted in the rails! Read thru what was easily searched over at 4btswaps. This is how that worked out.
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I didn't have a assembled truck to measure from! I read on another site that in 73 to 79 F150s and Broncos the crank centerline was about 2 3/4" above the rails on the v8s and about 2" on the 300. The string is pulled tight over the top off the frame rails. Split the difference? That's what I did, gives about 6deg tilt back.
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1 1/2" to the passenger side, same as factory.
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I clearanced the hole for the turbo oil drain a hair more than this.
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These are early 12v cummins dodge mounts, $8 each on rock auto.
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Hoping but not confident that a vacuum pump, power steering pump combo will fit. I may end up using a early ford 6.9 vacuum pump of I cannot get the Dodge combo to fit.
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Discussion Starter #28
Probably ordering a blue top steering gear tomorrow! I was contemplating mounting a late model superduty steering gear. I was scared by the story's of 76 to 79 F150 and Bronco sector shafts breaking off when driving down the road. NOT GOOD! I'm going to talk to them before I commit, tightening 3 bolts would be a lot less work! Hoping they use aftermarket shafts? Anyone looked into this?
 

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I bought a steering gear from Redhead for my 78. They told me, over the phone, that getting a box with a new sector shaft was an option and I think it was like $100 extra. They typically reuse the original sector shaft from the cores they receive. I was told that the new shafts were stronger if I was concerned with having an old shaft in the box, but they did not specify whether or not the shafts were aftermarket, OE, etc.

After I sent my core in and they inspected it, it turned out my sector shaft was cracked right above where the pitman arm sits. I pulled another box from the JY and sent in that shaft on its own in order to get my full core charge back.



 

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Having said that, I don't know what Bluetop does, but I would definitely call and ask. Redhead has options available for their boxes that they don't list online, so they might do the same over at Bluetop.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I called and talked to whoever answers the phone for blue top. I asked if they used a aftermarket sector shaft, the answer was no. They use cores that have been magnifluxed. He suggested that I use hydro assist for any tire larger than 35s. I asked about the quicker ratio option and it's affects on strength and durability. His response was that it doesn't negatively affect durability but hydro assist is nearly a requirement. He doesn't sell hydro assist parts or kits so I don't think I was being "sold" on anything. He obviously can and will port the box for future Hydro assist.
 
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