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2012 Jeep JKU
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
very nice.

It's hard to tell with the pics, but the hightsteer does not look like it's going to have much clearance with the leafs?
the high steer is original...never had a problem hitting the leafs...it does catch the spring plate a little, just need to grind the plate down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
not much done today...finished up the last beadlock at lunch and started cleaning and shaving the bottom of the 14 bolt....

did not go crazy, just removed about an inch off the bottom...I did not want to lose the bottom screw hole.



also angling the bottom for approach....
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
more more more

rear axle installed and lined up....



welded one side of the spring pad...will weld the inside when I yank the axle back out for paint....



pinion angle...I angled the housing down slightly for upwards travel....



tomorrow I will run over and grab some shock tabs and pull the axle back out for final welding and painting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
what's the story with the driveshaft? Not much room for compression.
gonna need to get it shortened....I figured as much since the 14 bolt is longer in the tooth than the 9 inch was. I have a driveshaft guy local that will shorten and rebalance for about $100.00. I am gonna see what it would take to switch the axle end of the drive shaft to either a 1350 or 1410 u-joint, shakerbuilt sells the yoke in either size.
 

· Former owner of Shadofax
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gonna need to get it shortened....I figured as much since the 14 bolt is longer in the tooth than the 9 inch was. I have a driveshaft guy local that will shorten and rebalance for about $100.00. I am gonna see what it would take to switch the axle end of the drive shaft to either a 1350 or 1410 u-joint, shakerbuilt sells the yoke in either size.
I'm planning the same thing eventually. Swapping out the 1330 yoke on my 60 for a 1350. You should be able to go 1350 or 1410 if you want. 1350 for sure as there is a 1350 lower driveshaft slipyoke, same spline count, almost exactly the same measurement as the 1330 series, just uses a 1350 ujoint. I'll go get the spicer part number for ya a little later this afternoon. As I recall Fireguy did this to his lower driveshaft to get a 1350 down there for his 9". Then you'd only have to worry about shortenting it.

I know the yoke for the 60 is about $47, and the new slipspline is another $90, plus a joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
little more progress...

Havent had to much time to work on the swap....but heres where I am at now...

new rotors and new inner/outer bearings in the rear hubs and new wheel studs and installed back on the axle.



cleaned up and painted....



shock tabs and spring plates welded back on....



thats it for now...going to order up the gears/master install kit/new carrier bolts and decided to go with a mini spool for now....this thing see's very little street time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Tim, I don't think you've mentioned it, but what do you have planned for the e-brake? Caddy calipers?
Ya...not sure on that...I would like to do Caddy's but from what I have read them seem to leak. thought about a line-lock for just the rear brake line, I really do not like the idea of no e-brake, so most likely I will try Caddy's (their all over the place at the local pic a parts)
 

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Since you need to mod the driveline anyway, and since you have fab skills, why not try putting an e-brake on the rear driveline, possibly near the output shaft of the t-case. One caliper, one rotor, one pad set. Seems like an easy set up

:shrug
 

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Ya...not sure on that...I would like to do Caddy's but from what I have read them seem to leak. thought about a line-lock for just the rear brake line, I really do not like the idea of no e-brake, so most likely I will try Caddy's (their all over the place at the local pic a parts)
I'm on the fence too. I was just going to tap a ball valve into the rear line so I had a e-brake (wouldn't pass inspection).

I might try the Caddy calipers too. Hopefully you get yours done and tested before I start mine. :toothless
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Since you need to mod the driveline anyway, and since you have fab skills, why not try putting an e-brake on the rear driveline, possibly near the output shaft of the t-case. One caliper, one rotor, one pad set. Seems like an easy set up

:shrug
Not keen on pinion brakes...lose a rear drive shaft and they dont do much in the way of stopping...
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I'm on the fence too. I was just going to tap a ball valve into the rear line so I had a e-brake (wouldn't pass inspection).

I might try the Caddy calipers too. Hopefully you get yours done and tested before I start mine. :toothless
sure let me be the guinea pig....but iirc 90beater was going to try caddy calipers and I think RescueBronco?....did use them.
 

· Former owner of Shadofax
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sure let me be the guinea pig....but iirc 90beater was going to try caddy calipers and I think RescueBronco?....did use them.
Rescue used some "transam" caliper, but as I recall it's similar to the other GM calipers. They seem to be kinda hit and miss. When he installed his he said he had no issues with leaking. GKR had to return 1 or 2 before not having any further issues. His is installed on a 14b.

on the Tcase brake, I thought of this as well since it's what Damon did. But...although I think you can get it to fit without a body lift (perhaps a little body massage though), the main issue I struggled with is the mounting bracket. He used the kit from .....from...umm can't remember the name, starts with a T? :toothless Anyway the mounting brackets use the existing bolts to hold them on a steel Tcase. Not sure I'd trust using the bolts on the back of the 1356 output housing, but I dunno. Guess someone needs to step up and be a guinea pig.
 
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