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Discussion Starter #1
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okay guys after another night of fussing this thing is still freakin out! So the only things I really have left are, to replace the coil then bust open the carb and take a look at that.

something else though,
as far as the EGR goes, basically what I've got are vaccum hoses going all over the place and then to nowhere like either cut off or capped off ends. So my big question here, what is all this crap and if I dont have to deal with emissions what are the routes available to me. Mainly can I just cap them all off or pull the EGR and the vaccum hoses out completely? and could this be the source of my problems?

second
when I turn the truck off after its been running for awhile my master cylinder makes a depressurizing hisss whats that all about?

third
I need to tighten the belt that runs my power steering do I just loosen the power steering box then pull it tighter and bolt it back down or what?
finally does anybody have pics of an 80 w/302 or a 302 set up like this? the closer I look the more this goofy wacko sh!t keeps poping up

thanks for the help guys:shocked Im buggin out
 

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FSB warrior
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First....

Yes get rid of the ones you dont need. you do need vacumm advance(from the carb) PCV, brake pressure, and one for your vents in the cab. Pull the rest off, buy a new air cleaner (I suggest Edelbrock 14" round for like 30 bucks with filter) and if you really want the thing to take hills get yourself a performer intake (P/N 2121) and a 600CFM 4bbl carb

Third....

yes of course. There is a square hole that is made for a 1/2 breaker bar or ratchet you can use to really pull it tight.
 

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"Pull the rest off... " You sure you want to tell that to someone who might have to take emission tests? :rolleyes:

Get yourself a repair manual, and follow the diagrams. Check your timing, do the compression test (as had been mentioned in the other thread), then test drive it
 

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Discussion Starter #4
davids, I only have to do one more smog test till Im in the clear thats why Im asking. In washington 25yr old vehicles are exempt I have one more test next week that will make me good for 2 yrs which makes my '80 25 yrs old so none of this will be done until my last test is passed.
So Im not asking about anything illegal or even quazi legal its totally legit:angel

I've got a big K&N filter that I happen to be cleaning right now. I dont really need a new one right? after I put that back together I'll go out and test the new coil I just threw in, but Im not real optimistic.

and about the coil, there is this little thing with a wire coming out of it just forward of the coil in the same clamp. The wire is cut and just hanging. what is this? and should it be connected to something?

oh yeah,
timing checked out, Ive got a haynes and have yet to figure out how to do a compression test.
 

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FSB warrior
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DeepSeaSnake said:
I've got a big K&N filter that I happen to be cleaning right now. I dont really need a new one right?
is it in your stock air cleaner housing or a 14" one???? Thats all my point was... you can get rid of like 6 vacumm lines by removing the stock air cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
its pretty big Id say its probably 14" I'll check when I go back and oil it. Here's a pic of the filter next to some common items to help determine size.

is that the stock one?

hey I got some photos of the truck and threw 'em up on superford

check 'em out

PS I also bought some carb cleaner and plan to hose it down here pretty soon, is there anything I should keep in mind before getting to it
 

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Even with the proper diagrams, it's tough to trace down all of the vacuum lines. What kind of carb do you have? Is it a factory 2bbl. 4bbl, or other? You can only get so much out of the factory carbs, but a good aftermarket 4bbl. will help a little. A new intake and carb will make a noticeable difference, but you will probably never smoke the tires without further engine mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
replaced the coil last night and it seemed like I fixed it. When I ran it up my test hill it was fine but than coming home on the freeway today it started up again so I guess its gotta be the carb. So now I gotta round up 400 bucks for a 4 barrel manifold and carb any suggestions?

I've got some other projects going mainly a small body lift, headers, new exhaust and rewiring damn near everything. Should I solve this thing first or can I move along my other projects.

what else can I check before I replace the carb? can anyone tell me how to do a compression test?
 

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FSB warrior
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Edelbrock performer ($125) (P/n 2121) holley 600 CFM w/electric choke (about $250) 1" spread bore to spread bore spacer and I cant see your air cleaner cuz it appears there is something wrong with superford???
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yeah superford is having some trouble. Ill keep that carb stuff in mind. Ill ask again when I get the funds. can you tell me why your partial to those parts?
 

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FSB warrior
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I finally saw your air cleaner... very nice and no thats not stock. Oh I liked the AR-15 better though....

Intake... depends on how much that satin one costs. Locally I can pick up an edelbrock performer for 126 plus tax. I would go Edelbrock if it was the same price or cheaper( I highly doubt the holley one is cheaper BTW)

Carb.... definatly!! Ive heard some very good reviews on those and holleys seam to last way longer then Edelbrock in regards to carbs

You really need to make sure your distributor is advancing... are you getting some insanely bad MPG???? If so thats the first sign your dizzy is jacked up...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
okay about that...
when I first picked up the truck it wouldnt run. The guy yanked the "dizzy" and could not get it back in again. Excuse the lack of tech terms here, when he yanked it out he managed to dislodge that shaft under the distributor just enough so that the O rings wouldnt drop and seal. After like 3 days of goofing around with nothing we managed to pull the shaft completely out with one of those magnetic screwdrivers. but had no way to put it back in since all our drivers that would hook up with the shaft like an allen wrench were magnitized. So what we did was wedge a bit of paper towel inbetween that inner wall of the dizzy and the shaft and after those 2 were as solid as we could get them we just put the dizzy back timed it up and walla.

so now I am really scared to take the distributor off for risk the shaft falls out inroute or that little piece of paper towel comes dislodged. To answer your question though, yes Im getting pretty shitty MPG, sub 10 at least
 

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FSB warrior
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you should be able to rebuild the top of the distributor without removing it. That was the oil pump drive rod BTW.

Sub 10 is like crappy.... 6-8 is shitty
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well I havent figured MPG since it started this crap so it could be worse, I dont know. I was thinking of running carb cleaner through it but havent yet in fear that some of the crap in there is helping keep what little vaccum I have. Do you think I should hose it down or sit on it till I've got carb money?

does anyone have any suggestions about where to order that holley carb? and whats with satin?
 

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FSB warrior
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ditto on summit or Jegs, I have no preference but I find Jegs has everything I need.

Satin is a finish... as apposed to polished an option that adds about 300 bucks to the cost of a $125 intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
about the carb real quick,
its an offroad carb, does this mean freeway driving will prodice undue stress on the carb?

its a 670 is that too much for my rebuilt 302
 

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CheeseBurger Milkshake!!
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I don't think you'd have any problems on the freeway. 'Offroad' means that the carb can take steep inclines and off-camber situations better than a 'street' carb.

The 670 is a bit large for a 302, but it should work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
is there anything I can do to make that 670 a bit more realistic, I mean as far as engine mods go? If not is the jist of the problem that I could flood the engine easier or are there bigger problems out there?
 
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