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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning All! I have read a few threads on this issue and am trying to confirm some information about the neutral safety switch. My bronc will not start when I turn the key. I have no power to the wire that goes to the solenoid. My battery appears to have almost 14 amps when the truck is running. With the key switch on (truck not running), the battery's amps drops continually. With the key off the amps rise back up. I have replaced the ignition switch and still the same symptoms. I can start it with a screwdriver at the solenoid. I have tried to start it in park and neutral with the key switch and no luck. I get power just nothing else when I turn the key. I also have no back up lights.
Can the neutral safety switch be the cause of the no start with key, power loss at battery and no back up lights?
 

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Yo Spencer,
Does ignition Key have the usual spring back from Start to Run?
The ignition switch, mounted inside column's shroud is where the spring-back is provided, but the actuator(s) is often damaged. Ensure switch is securely mounted first.

"The early '80-91 switch is on the LEFT; the later '92-up is on the RIGHT". bySteve
155410

'80-91 Motorcraft SW2472
Battery - Y - 37
Accy1 - Bk/LG - 297
Accy2 - Gy/Y - 687
Ign1 - R/LG - 16
Ign2 - Br/Pk - 262
Start - R/LB - 32
Proof1 - Pu/Wh - 977
Proof2 - Bk/LB - 41
 

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I鈥檓 going to assume you meant colts and not amps. Assuming so, battery operation is normal.

I can鈥檛 recall if the NSS is ground-actuated, but I鈥檒l assume so as most items are ground-switched. If so, you should be able to ground the wire from the ignition switch and essentially bypass the NSS.

Can you actually keep the trunk running by leaving the key in run and jumping at the solenoid, or does it just crank when jumped at the solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Miesk the key switch has some spring back from run. It is a new switch but acts the same as the old one I replaced.
Packager, the truck will run as long as it is getting fuel by jumping it at the solenoid. I am still working with the carburetor to raise the float level a bit more. I will have to google ground-actuated before I can understand that part of your reply. What do you mean by ground the wire from the ignition switch? Which wire are you speaking of as I see many wires. I'm still learning!!!
 

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Google EVTM and check out the NSS. Generally, in our trucks, switched circuits are 鈥渃losed/activated鈥 by closing the ground side of the circuit. So for your NSS, when the shifter is in P or N, the switch is closed and allows power to go to the solenoid when the key switch is moved to Start. If you confirm it鈥檚 wired like that, you can jump the wire arriving at the NSS from the ignition switch to ground, and it鈥檒l fool the truck into thinking it鈥檚 always in P or N. Be careful to make sure you are in P when you start it!

I鈥檒l try to look at my EVTM tonight and verify I鈥檓 not talking out my butt.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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My one ton has a push button wired into the column wires because I didn鈥檛 want to sink in the column since I need to eventually replace the stupid tilt column out.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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In my 82 when needed to replace the neutral safety switch (no back up lights) the rig still started and ran. Drove it to the mechanic needing the safety switch.... So I don't think it's that... Most starting issues that I've read (and what I did with mine) everyone is always talking about replacing/upgrading the battery cables/clamps and grounds (these old wires are worn, beat and the lineman splices well beyond their lifespans) cleaning all ground contacts, new wires between starter, solenoid (would likely replace that too), alt, distributor, plugs and wires... Do u have the EECIII ignition system (silver box looking thing on the driver's side inner fender)? If so u might wanna consider replacing that too... We put on some sort of GM universal ignition thing (can't recall exactly but I'm pretty sure @BigBlue 94 has the same set up in his rig)... Like with my rig it could be a combination of several of these... Honestly all stuff that should be at the top of your to do list to have a reliable runner even if u weren't having starting issues...
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Currently bowling, but I'll check this out later. My ignition system is a hot mess lol!
 

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My 80 doesn鈥檛 appear to have a neutral safety switch. Instead, the manual says the column has a mechanical feature that won鈥檛 allow the key to turn to Start unless the column shifter is in Park or Neutral.

Looking at Gary鈥檚 site for an 86, the manual clearly shows one in the ignition circuit logic.

That said, Ford appears to have adopted a switch sometime in the Bullnose run.

I have a 2 wire switch on the drivers side of my C6 that appears to just be the reverse light switch. It鈥檚 only a two-wire switch.

I understand there are 4 wire switches too. The 鈥86 EVTM indicates the NSS function is part of a larger 鈥淏ackup/Start鈥 switch. Lookat your tranny and see if you can determine how many wires go into the switch. If you have a combined switch, it鈥檚 possible it is bad and the reason you have no start nor reverse lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good morning and thank you for all of the replies. I have so far as broncmom stated replaced starter, coil, ignition control module, ignition switch, solenoid (3 times!), plugs, key cylinder, fuses, new distributer, battery wires and terminals plus other things that don't have anything to do with the power side. I have cleaned the grounds I have located under the hood and inside. Haven't gotten all like at tailgate.
I will say that even when my battery test at 12 volts initially, when I turn the key and starting it at the solenoid with the screwdriver, it drops so low that it needs a jump every time. It never just starts. I will check the wires at the switch google EVTM and check out the NSS as packager advised. I think I will take off tomorrow to do this and get back to you all. I know I am learning but sometimes this gets a bit discouraging. Then there is rage and then finally you get back at it with a new burst of energy! Makes you feel a bit stupid to not be able to figure it out.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Upon reading this fully, I have no friggin clue! Electrical is not my strong point.

My 85 was EECIV. It was then converted to points, and now is running a GM style HEI distributor ignition.

When I get in to start it, it's quite a process. I turn the ignition with a toggle switch, which send power, via a golf cart relay, to my distributor. I hit a other toggle to turn my aftermarket gauges on, then press the clutch and turn the key. My key switch is essentially a pushbutton now, as turning it off and removing the key does nothing but lock the steering. To shut the engine down, I have to hit that first toggle switch again.

I couldn't for the life of me, find the wire I needed in the ignition switch on the lower column, (not the key cylinder).
 

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If the switch is a possible issue, the quickest and easiest way to test and see if it is the problem would be to jump it out.
It is a normally open switch, take a pc of wire and connect it to both ends of the wire to complete the circuit, just like a working switch would do

I had a very similar problem, in the end it turned out to be bad grounds! There are THREE major grounds: 1) Battery to starter, 2) battery to engine block , 3) Chassis to frame (look right under the pass side dorr about 1 ft in, you will see a braided gnd strap connecting the two. Very easy to do, so might as well have a look
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i don't have a chassis to frame ground strap under the passenger door. So this strap (so I fully understand) would be very noticeable correct? Chassis is what the body sits on correct? Is the body considered the frame?
 

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My 80 does not have a batttery to starter ground - starter ultimately grounds through block. I have a small gauge wire connecting the body to the intake manifold. There was another ground up front (probably battery to frame), but it鈥檚 missing, yet truck still runs. Should probably get that one fixed.

Spencer, you may as well stop till you get a good battery. A bad battery can鈥檛 be overcome.
 

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I dont see what year you Bronco is, mine is a '96
The body sits on 6 or 8 rubber 'hockey pucks' to isolate the body from vibration
There is no guarantee of an electrical circuit thru the bolts that run thru the pucks bolting it all together, so a large dia wire from body to frame is needed
In your case I'd just make sure the other two are in place for now. The engine also sits on rubber mounts and may not electrically connect all that well the the frame, hence a second wire (at least on my '96). And last is the gnd from battery to starter. Just take a look at the terminals, poss remove, sand it, spray on some silicone, and call it done.

If you dont want to waste the time and see if this is an issue at all, for the other two connections you can use just about anything, strip a wire back 2" , loosen a bolt, tuck the wire under and tighten.

I posted a similar problem and thought it was BS. I got under there and discovered both Gnd straps were rotted and broken! The entire GND in the entire truck was running through a lousy 10 ga wire to the starter with a corroded connection!

Try it. very little effort with a potential of huge gains.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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The chassis..."A chassis is the basic framework of your vehicle. Sometimes the chassis is only the frame, while other times it includes the wheels, transmission, and sometimes even the front seats. A chassis is one of the most important components of a vehicle, without which the car would have no structure... A vehicle frame, also known as its chassis, is the main supporting structure of a motor vehicle, to which all other components are attached, comparable to the skeleton of an organism. Until the 1930s virtually every car had a structural frame, separate from its body. This construction design is known as body-on-frame (hence the term frame off restoration where the body is removed from the chassis).
These aren't unibody rigs. "The definition of unibody is a type of motor vehicle construction where single molded unit forms a car's body work and chassis".
 

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Hey @spencer151 any chance u might be able to get a video of trying to start it? I agree with @packagerjr about the battery... If you're weak or bad there, nothing else after that will work right. I know it gets frustrating... Mine spent 22 weeks at the mechanics after I bought it, going thru it with a fine tooth comb. Well worth the $2200 it cost us cause some of the stuff we never would've found (like the head gaskets being reversed and flipped 馃槒). It can get discouraging and I know the rage well... But you'll get there. These guys are great and if u don't quit, they don't quit... You'll get there and it'll be so worth it... Blood, sweat n tears baby... Now u know where the motto comes from. That cat who coined that musta been a classic car owner 馃槀 hang in there... You'll get it 馃憤
 
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