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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok... So I noticed a wet spot in my parking space when I sent my bko to the mechanic. It looked relatively new as it was still wet-ish... Not huge but, there...
I got her home and slid a piece of cardboard under her to see if I could pinpoint where the leak was coming from and this is what came up
Green Plant Road surface Asphalt Land lot


Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Vehicle Automotive tire


This isn't even close to where the original leak I saw in the grass (that shoulda been on the drivers (left) side of the cardboard... But these came up... Looks like tranny pan gasket leak...

I've searched the forum for a write up on how to change this but apparently only aero owners have posted about tranny pan gasket replacements...I couldn't find any on the bullnose (that has any replies anyway)...
Can y'all direct me to a write up or walk me thru this?

What I've gotten from reading the aero posts...fel-pro is the gasket everyone was suggesting, rubber not cork, that I can use a little spray adhesive to hold the gasket in place while replacing the pan (not sure I like this idea) and run a bead of gasket maker(?) on top of the gasket (not sure I like this idea either) and 12-16 pounds of torque on the pan bolts. I saw one post about an 86 (that has no replies) but apparently 2 bolts were behind the tranny support beam?

So yeah... That's where I'm at... And as always greatly appreciate anything y'all can suggest...
 

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I presume you have a C6.

If you have the OE stamped steel pan I would plan on it being warped. I tried to flattenmine with a small hammer but just broke down and bought an aluminum TCI pan.

I chose to use a LubeLocker gasket and wouldn’t hesitate to do so again.

I recall one bolt that I had to buy a shallow 1/4” socket and stick a piece of Allen key in it to tighten that bolt. I don’t recall the rest being difficult. There is a sequence, generally tightening in the middle and working out to front and back to help iron out any gaps between pan and transmission.

You may want to drain the torque converter. I tried but access was difficult with oil pan and I was afraid I’d tear something up.

Do replace the filter. I also replaced the vacuum modulator since trans was drained. I still think I have a leak at the modulator and perhaps where the shift linkage enters the trans. All that to say that any leak from the transmission will show up on the bottom side of the pan, so identify all of them prior to beginning work.

It’s a messy job to drain the stock pan because they have no drain plug. A huge catch pan, loosening one side of the pan slowly, and kitty litter are your best friends.

Hopefully it’s not a front seal or something else that requires separation from the engine!
 

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Not much to this one but a mess so I usually do it somewhere not at my driveway. 17 pan bolts, pan comes down with a wave of tranny fluid everywhere, remove any any any bit of old gasket carefully to not scratch either surface. Brake cleaner it dry. Install new filter. There are three different configurations for the filter. If you mix it up and not match the size of filter neck exactly you either starve the pump of fluid, or have no filtering of fluid. Any brand of rubber gasket works fine. I'm not a fan of the cork ones. Do not overtighten pan bolts past a bit of snug or you will strip out the threads on the case.

Adrianspeeder
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I presume you have a C6.

If you have the OE stamped steel pan I would plan on it being warped. I tried to flattenmine with a small hammer but just broke down and bought an aluminum TCI pan.

I chose to use a LubeLocker gasket and wouldn’t hesitate to do so again.

I recall one bolt that I had to buy a shallow 1/4” socket and stick a piece of Allen key in it to tighten that bolt. I don’t recall the rest being difficult. There is a sequence, generally tightening in the middle and working out to front and back to help iron out any gaps between pan and transmission.

You may want to drain the torque converter. I tried but access was difficult with oil pan and I was afraid I’d tear something up.

Do replace the filter. I also replaced the vacuum modulator since trans was drained. I still think I have a leak at the modulator and perhaps where the shift linkage enters the trans. All that to say that any leak from the transmission will show up on the bottom side of the pan, so identify all of them prior to beginning work.

It’s a messy job to drain the stock pan because they have no drain plug. A huge catch pan, loosening one side of the pan slowly, and kitty litter are your best friends.

Hopefully it’s not a front seal or something else that requires separation from the engine!
Yes. C6 (it's in my posted truck bio 😊)
And don't even hex me by saying front seal 😮 I'm fairly confident from where the 3 little spots are on the cardboard that it isn't front seals.

And thank you for the rest of the info
Very helpful 😊
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You could also check the pan bolts and snug them up if needed. It doesn't always work but it's free. :)
Was thinking this too after reading all those aero posts
Seemed to be a common theme amongst a bunch of the leaky ones...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not much to this one but a mess
Right...I did a tranny fluid change on my Beretta back in the day and totally got dumped on... Lesson learned... Thankfully I park on the grass but I'll probably do it on my car washing spot (different part of the lawn by the road...good mix of short grass and packed dirt/pebbles) so it won't matter if it spills but I do have a huge catch basin.

But great info... Thanks for that 😊
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Agree on going the aluminum pans route. Also the shifter shaft oring can leak on the c6 too. That one is a little harder to fix
I don't even know where that is... I've never really been brave enough to get into much tranny stuff after that Beretta experience and how easily you can mess things up...
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 313K miles
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You could also check the pan bolts and snug them up if needed. It doesn't always work but it's free. :)
I second this as your first line of defense! I do this every so often, to old and lazy to change gaskets.
When changing gaskets or other things that have to do with oil or water I use a "light" coating of RTV/Silicone to add an extra layer of safety against leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The C6 transmission is fairly easy to change the pan gasket. May as well do a filter change since you are in there already.
Was gonna... She had a full change and filter when I got her 3 years/6500 miles ago.
Was also thinking of the pan cover with the drain in it... Anyone have a favorite?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I second this as your first line of defense! I do this every so often, to old and lazy to change gaskets.
When changing gaskets or other things that have to do with oil or water I use a "light" coating of RTV/Silicone to add an extra layer of safety against leaks.
Thank you Stevo 😊
 

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Was gonna... She had a full change and filter when I got her 3 years/6500 miles ago.
Was also thinking of the pan cover with the drain in it... Anyone have a favorite?
I would definitely try not to change the fluid and filter if it was done 3 years/6500 miles ago, I would think tightening the bolts should work just fine, then clean off the whole trans pan area and see if the leak is gone. As stated before; Free, Free, Free!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would definitely try not to change the fluid and filter if it was done 3 years/6500 miles ago, I would think tightening the bolts should work just fine, then clean off the whole trans pan area and see if the leak is gone. As stated before; Free, Free, Free!
Well yeah, absolutely first in the series of troubleshooting... I'm all about free first... Like you can see it's only 3 little spots so it's not major. This is just me being preemptive... ki.s.s....Keep it simple stupid, that's what my dad would always say...
 

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1990 Ford Bronco Custom, 5.0L EFI AOD Manual Hubs
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Ok... So I noticed a wet spot in my parking space when I sent my bko to the mechanic. It looked relatively new as it was still wet-ish... Not huge but, there...
I got her home and slid a piece of cardboard under her to see if I could pinpoint where the leak was coming from and this is what came up
View attachment 200336

View attachment 200335

This isn't even close to where the original leak I saw in the grass (that shoulda been on the drivers (left) side of the cardboard... But these came up... Looks like tranny pan gasket leak...

I've searched the forum for a write up on how to change this but apparently only aero owners have posted about tranny pan gasket replacements...I couldn't find any on the bullnose (that has any replies anyway)...
Can y'all direct me to a write up or walk me thru this?

What I've gotten from reading the aero posts...fel-pro is the gasket everyone was suggesting, rubber not cork, that I can use a little spray adhesive to hold the gasket in place while replacing the pan (not sure I like this idea) and run a bead of gasket maker(?) on top of the gasket (not sure I like this idea either) and 12-16 pounds of torque on the pan bolts. I saw one post about an 86 (that has no replies) but apparently 2 bolts were behind the tranny support beam?

So yeah... That's where I'm at... And as always greatly appreciate anything y'all can suggest...
Although i have not changed a transmission pan gasket on a bullnose, i have changed one on my F-150 and the most important thing i learned was to have an oversized catch pan, like a super large baking sheet under the standard oil catch, and instead of the spray adhesive to hold on the gasket i used sewing thread. just made a couple of knots through each hole and it worked perfect! No leaks to this day. One thing i wish i had done at the time was to install a transmission pan drain plug, just to make future transmission service easier. Maybe next time.
Hope this helps!
~Erik
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Although i have not changed a transmission pan gasket on a bullnose, i have changed one on my F-150 and the most important thing i learned was to have an oversized catch pan, like a super large baking sheet under the standard oil catch, and instead of the spray adhesive to hold on the gasket i used sewing thread. just made a couple of knots through each hole and it worked perfect! No leaks to this day. One thing i wish i had done at the time was to install a transmission pan drain plug, just to make future transmission service easier. Maybe next time.
Hope this helps!
~Erik
Definitely... Thank you.
So... Do you cut the threads off once the pan is set or what?
 

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I figured you would have... Was everything still right/tight after that week?
It sure was and this was last year and not a spot on the driveway since. Another thing i did was to clean off the mating surfaces with a scotch bright and brake cleaner. It was the OEM gasket so it left bits behind. So i consider that pretty much a win! Growing up my dad hated spots on the driveway and always "looked" after i left from visiting, i guess that rubbed off on me. ;)
~Erik
 
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