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Discussion Starter #1
Originally 83 Bronco custom with a 302 this is the truck I drove when I was in high school in the late 90s. Since then it was sold move to Mississippi repurchased by another individual back here in New York and I we found her only 30 minutes from my house for sale.

No one believed me when I found her because the color had changed the motor had changed there have been many changes since I have sold her and she moved to Mississippi but when I found the VIN number and compared it to Old paperwork my father still had I was right that was my truck.

Later on after working on it having the motor pulled and into behind the firewall I found an old pack of Camel cigarettes I had lost way back then LOL confirming my suspicions even farther.


The 302 that was in it was out of a 79 Ford car. The C6 transmission that was in it I found junkyard writing on unknown what it came out of.

When I pulled the 302 I found that the motor is completely shot block had a hole in piston 3.

Just building another 302 with gt40p heads estimated horsepower will be around 325 horse maybe about three hundred foot pounds of torque. I originally wanted to keep the C6 transmission but upon thinking farther I think I'll upgrade it to an aod. I'm staying carbureted it's going to have a 4 Barrel Edelbrock carburetor and plenum Pro Series.

My plan is to put a switch in the dash to put it into overdrive activating the vacuum rather than hooking it up to the carburetor so I can control when it's in over driving when it's not not sure if that'll work or not never done anything like it just heard stories of it.

Now that the engine and transmission are pulled I think I want to por-15 the entire engine bay and then paid it thoughts? Is there a better option?

Relatively little rust mostly surface.

Another question I have since right now the engine bay is completely open I was thinking about replacing or rebuilding the steering box while it's easy access any suggestions?.

This is a long-billed project I don't even think it'll be on the road for at least two maybe three more years.

It's got slightly bigger tires in the Olean which I like 33 is I believe so my thought was to put a one and a half inch body lift or a Skyjacker one and a half inch lift not sure which way I want to go yet.

Not going to use the truck for any heavy off-roading it's going to be mostly a daily driver in the Summers.

Doing a lot of the research now I'm pulling an interior out of a King Ranch early 2000s F-150.

Kind of pissed cuz at some point somebody replaced the top with one that's currently on it and mine originally he had the sliding rear windows missing those.

I think the owner Mississippi give it a heavy dark tent replace the interior with gold crushed velvet with a purple body looks very pimpish LOL.

It had the front bench seat and the normal Bronco folding rear seat. My plan is to take the extra parts as I find replacements such as the C6 in the interior and put it up on the forum for free to a good home for other Bronco enthusiastic to use.

Got two small kids in a busy life but I'm going to continue being my weekend warrior in The Summer's winners are pretty much stands still around here.

Thanks for reading I hope to keep you all posted on my progress I've posted previously but not much and lost most of my links I hope this one stays and I stay active with it apologize.

IMG951986.jpg First Day Home 1.jpg 20190810_180840.jpg

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Discussion Starter #2
I decided to pull this power steering to get it to frame better to clean it up for prep


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Yo is here,
You spun the wheel and you won back your 83, congrats! That is pure good fortune.

As for Por-15 or Rust Bullet, etc that is good, but of course, keep the engine ground points bright.

If I was using the 83 just in summer months, I'd keep the C6 with a rebuild.

If steering box has issues and $ is available, Red Head.

Any frame rivets loose? Frame Rivet TSB 97-4-7 for 80-96
Source: by Ford
" Frame Rivet TSB 97-4-7 for 80-96
Source: by Ford
Frame Rivet TSB 97-4-7 for 80-96

rivetreplacement.jpg | Hits: 14050 | Posted on: 11/1/05 | View Low-Res

Rivet Replacement with Bolts
For other TSBs, check here.

TSB 97-4-7 FRAME - RIVET REPLACEMENT WITH BOLTS

Publication Date: FEBRUARY 17, 1997

LIGHT TRUCK:
1980-1996 BRONCO
1980-1997 ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES
1983-1997 RANGER
1984-1990 BRONCO II
1986-1997 AEROSTAR
1988-1997 F SUPER DUTY, F-47
1991-1997 EXPLORER

ISSUE: Damaged or loose frame rivets should be replaced with approved service bolts. WELDING IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.

ACTION: If service is required, replace standard rivets with approved service bolts. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

NOTE: THE "HUCK" RIVET BETWEEN THE #1 CROSSMEMBER AND THE LH FRAME RAIL SHOULD BE SERVICED PER TSB 91-25-18. THIS PROCEDURE DOES NOT APPLY.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Inspect for a loose or damaged rivet.
Remove any damaged or loose rivets.
1.) Drill a 3.175mm (1/8") hole through the rivet.
2.) Redrill the same hole through the shank of the rivet.
3.) Use an 8.731mm (11/32") drill for 3/8" and 10mm rivets.
4.) Use a 9.525mm (3/8") drill for 11.113mm (7/16") rivets.
5.) Remove the rivet head with an air chisel.
6.) Drive out the rivet with a punch and hammer.
7.) Line ream the hole to the replacement bolt nominal size with a hole tolerance of 0.127mm (0.005").
8.) Free hole of burrs after reaming to allow bolt head and nut to seat properly.
9.) Select the bolt length to have a minimum of two (2) threads protruding from outer face of nut. Refer to the Bolt Selection Chart for correct parts usage.

NOTE: IF A FLANGE HEAD NUT AND BOLT ARE NOT AVAILABLE, GRADE 5 HEX HEADS MAY BE SUBSTITUTED WITH ONE (1) FLATWASHER REQUIRED UNDER THE NUT AND ONE (1) FLATWASHER REQUIRED UNDER THE BOLT HEAD.
NOTE: GRADE 8 BOLTS MAY BE SUBSTITUTED FOR ANY APPLICATION.

Check to be sure there is a 12.7mm (1/2") minimum clearance of bolt to adjacent components, except engine and transmission, which must have at least 19.05mm (3/4") clearance to allow for powertrain roll.

10.) Tighten the bolts to the specifications shown in attached Bolt Selection Chart.

Source: by Ford

Did you light up the Camel?😎
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That is Great Info on the Rivets! I didn’t even think of checking (a Duh moment LLOL). Thank you that will be this weekend’s weekend warrior goal.
I had to Quit smoking 7 years ago. I had to get a kidney transplant (Donated by my Sister) and was told if I was a smoker I would not be eligible for the transplant. When I was asked "are you a smoker?" I responder NO! Then I was asked "where you ever a smoker?" I said yes :( then I was asked "how long ago?" I said about 2 hours ago! They thought I was joking but I never picked up a smoke again.
3 Years ago I also received a Pancreas transplant. Eliminating Diabetes!
Being off Dialysis and now no longer being a diabetic after 35 years of diabetes is what gives me the energy and time to work on the truck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I took a look last night at the axel set up and found
Front dif tag
3 07 E3TA TA
610088-10

The front axle is a D44, with 3.07 open gears, the rear is 8.8" with 3.08 open

I am not great at this but I am thinking given these ratios th C6 is a better choice?? as these are "highway"
why do you think the C6 is better for summer driving? I live in Central NY.
I guess I don't know enough about auto transmission selection as I am a Manual Trans guy but the Wife prefers auto (even tho she drives a manual every day)
 

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Yo oshere,
Great that you dropped smoking and rid yourself of diabetes!!!

I like the C6 because I believe it's stronger and can be rebuilt to handle more torque and hp.

As for ratios, I forget all that stuff, it sucks to get old😎.
 

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179 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Okay, Okay you twisted my rubber arm I'll keep the C6.
I have never rebuilt a auto before so I'll hit up youtube to see if I am capable of taking it on. If not the hunt will start to look for a good tranny guy (no pun intended)
 

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The Tennessee Warden
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2,500 Posts
I took a look last night at the axel set up and found
Front dif tag
3 07 E3TA TA
610088-10

The front axle is a D44, with 3.07 open gears, the rear is 8.8" with 3.08 open

I am not great at this but I am thinking given these ratios th C6 is a better choice?? as these are "highway"
why do you think the C6 is better for summer driving? I live in Central NY.
I guess I don't know enough about auto transmission selection as I am a Manual Trans guy but the Wife prefers auto (even tho she drives a manual every day)
With that C6 and 33" tires, a good choice for gears would probably be 3.73. My old '88 had a C6 and 33" tires with 3.55 gears and it was kind of a dog. If you decide to go the AOD route, 4.10 would be good, but you would need to swap out the D44 carrier for a gear to match. With the 3.73 gears, you would not need a new front carrier.

Looking forward to watching your progress....:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Decided to go ahead and pull the tires put it up on stands and prepped for my mobile abrasive room build. Also decided I might as well go ahead and replace the shocks since I want to get behind there to sandblast it prior to the por-15


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Discussion Starter #10
as I am looking things over for blasting with the iron oxid I might wanna use something softer on the firewall. I read about using baking soda for aluminum and softer metals. any thoughts? yah or nah?
 

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as I am looking things over for blasting with the iron oxid I might wanna use something softer on the firewall. I read about using baking soda for aluminum and softer metals. any thoughts? yah or nah?
Unless you are concerned about post blasting clean out (i.e. with an intake, etc.) glass beads are going to be faster cutting, but still relatively gentle. Make sure you are getting beads though and not ground glass.

For a firewall though? I wouldn’t be gentle...
 

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