Yeah, I would defintely check on getting the 'transmission' fluid drained and flushed. Some shops will do it right, getting ALL of the old fluid out, and change the filter for about $100. IF you wait too long (after 100K mi) it often does more harm than good to do this flush. Look for a shop that knows 4WD's or the E4OD and ask them. If you've never had this done it may already be too late, and just want to change the filter.
30K miles is a good figure on the drivetrain fluids, so you are prolly overdue on the axles and t-case if they never had service. Check for metal filings and water in the old fluid, or usually low level/lack of. Think about switching to a synthetic like Royal Purple for your axles, type depending on if you have L/S or not. The t-case uses AT fluid, don't put oil in it!!!
As for the engine, check or have the shop check for any oil leaks, like from the rear main seal or oil pan gasket. It's not uncommon for the oil pan to rust out in the winter climates. Check timing, do the tune-up, test the fuel pressure, test for engine/tranny codes, and inspect the spark plugs yourself, especially the no.8 cylinder.
I am also about to hit 85,000 miles. I tuned-up at 60,000. It was definately too early for the spark plugs; they were in good shape. But I should have changed the distributor cap much sooner. I will change it again at 90,000. The wires are still good and have been put to the test: I had to drive in Hurricane Rita. Truck didn't miss a beat with driving rain coming straight into the grill
All my driving is on rural interstate or off-road. At 60,000 I replaced the factory front brakes as they were worn, but still had some mileage left. (I didn't want to do the wheel repack thing again in 15,000 miles). I re-checked the rear brakes at 83,000 and they are still going strong.
If your truck was used, now is a good time to investigate what maintenance may not have been performed. People frequently neglect coolant changes and front bearing repacks.
You may also want to convert to synthetic lubricants. I installed synthetic tranny and rear end fluid in my Bronco at 30,000 miles. You can feel the increase in smoothness.
In some cases, it does not pay to wait to do maintenance until it is due. If you plan to keep your Bronco until 150,000 miles, you will not save anything by waiting until say, 100,000 miles to change the rear end oil. By changing now, you get all the benefits at no increase in expense. And you will never have to change it again.
Has anyone installed AC/heat in a 1978/1979 Bronco that did not come from the factory with it already? I'm wondering if the only good option would be an aftermarket kit like vintage air or something else, even though they are quite pricey... Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
Gentlemen this EFI system on a 94 Ford Bronco sucks I've changed changed the ignition module(black) as well as pressure regulator, PCM , and fuel pump relays, cleaned about 7 Ground locations on under hood sections, , to frame 2 motor to body on passenger sinde.ground cleaned and checked 4...
I ran across a post from @jowens1126 from way back. He apparently successfully removed the factory headlight screw adjusters. The aftermarket crap has bad adjusters.
I tried removing these adjust screw clips - didn't go well. I want it out - but mangled and out isn't good. Any tips?
Recently noticed an increasing oil leak from the pan. Front corner drivers side. Wet bolts. Thought it was water from my timing cover at first, but no luck. It's oil. Starts after I shut off the engine. Starting to leave quite the large spot on my driveway. I've always had a little oil...