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Discussion Starter #1
i have a '86 bronco with the D44 TTB in the front with the manual locking hubs. my question is if i put a full on locker in it and unlock the hubs then the locker wouldn't effect me right? on the other hand once i get off road and lock the hubs in and put it in 4WD then i have the locker engauged right? i'm asking this because i was going to put a limited slip in the front but was thinking if the tires totally disconnect front the driveline then i might as well put a locking in it right?

Travis
 

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The Anti Yam!
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As long as the transfer case is in 2-hi and/or the hubs are unlocked, you will not feel much if any feedback from an Automatic locker, even with the hubs locked and the T-case in 2hi.
 

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Gacknar said:
As long as the transfer case is in 2-hi and/or the hubs are unlocked, you will not feel much if any feedback from an Automatic locker, even with the hubs locked and the T-case in 2hi.
:stupid
 

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I dont have anything to add, but thanks for the info and stuff since i was consitering the same thing.
 

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it will be harder to turn with a locker in front when both hubs are locked
some people unlock one of the hubs to make sharp turns
 

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The Anti Yam!
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JASON 4X4 said:
it will be harder to turn with a locker in front when both hubs are locked
some people unlock one of the hubs to make sharp turns
Not if the transfer case is in 2-hi.

Your thinking of a spool, wich is verry diferant from a locker.
 

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Gacknar said:
Not if the transfer case is in 2-hi.

Your thinking of a spool, wich is verry diferant from a locker.
yea, but, I think he was meaning this:

2WD... I don't care what you put in the front, with hubs disengaged, nothing is moving, 'cept those outer hub bearings and tires, so off you go like flynn.

4WD... locker or worse full spool (or welded lincoln), your steering is majorly affected (wants to just plow straight forward), and it's hard on the front end unless you take the corners easy. This is why the ARB came about, which is what I would always recommend if you have the money ( I feel the same thing while trying to turn with a locked ARB, which is a full spool). You can play around with disengaging hubs, but I won't even go there. You could live with a locker up front, but it's still not great.
 

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Why not just get a locker from PowerTrax or Detroit for like $200 dollars you cant beat it for the money (ARB is $700 + $200 for compressor) F that. When you need to make a turn, the locker automatically unlocks and makes a ratcheting sound (easy on the turns). Just like you said, with the hubs unlocked the locker will do absolutly nothing because it is not engaged. Period!

P.S. While you are at it you might consider re-gearing it if you have the money. Thats what I did, Detroit EZ locker with 4.56 gears. If you put a locker in the rear, you might want to consider a more high end locker.
 

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My question is this: If using a ratcheting style locker that ratchets while turning, then what is the point if you are in need of a front locker while turning, say in rocky terrain and you are crawling and need to make a sharp turn with power to the wheels. Don't get me wrong, the money for a Ausie or the like, is excellent but thats something I can't figure out.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Shadofax said:
2WD... I don't care what you put in the front, with hubs disengaged, nothing is moving, 'cept those outer hub bearings and tires, so off you go like flynn..
Im talking 2-hi with the hubs locked.
You will feel almost no feedback from an auto locker.
(unlike a spool)


Dsmed said:
My question is this: If using a ratcheting style locker that ratchets while turning, then what is the point if you are in need of a front locker while turning, say in rocky terrain and you are crawling and need to make a sharp turn with power to the wheels. Don't get me wrong, the money for a Ausie or the like, is excellent but thats something I can't figure out.
I dont exactly understand your question.

But you do understand that with an auto locker neither axle can spin slower than the ring gear, but one can disingage and spin faster.
(Like in a turn where the outside tire travels a longer path than the inner)
 

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jgaytan said:
Why not just get a locker from PowerTrax or Detroit for like $200 dollars you cant beat it for the money (ARB is $700 + $200 for compressor) F that. When you need to make a turn, the locker automatically unlocks and makes a ratcheting sound (easy on the turns). Just like you said, with the hubs unlocked the locker will do absolutly nothing because it is not engaged. Period!

P.S. While you are at it you might consider re-gearing it if you have the money. Thats what I did, Detroit EZ locker with 4.56 gears. If you put a locker in the rear, you might want to consider a more high end locker.
What Detroit are you referring to for $200? Most lunchbox lockers are more than that IIRC...somewhere in the $275-325 range. A Detroit locker is in the ballpark of $550 dependent on application (14B aside). Which then makes a truly selectable locker of greater interest if one has the money.

Dsmed wrote:
My question is this: If using a ratcheting style locker that ratchets while turning, then what is the point if you are in need of a front locker while turning, say in rocky terrain and you are crawling and need to make a sharp turn with power to the wheels. Don't get me wrong, the money for a Ausie or the like, is excellent but thats something I can't figure out.

I would say that with experience, a Detroit up front is likely "controllable" to some extent when making a turn....with proper application of gas you can get locking action. I can do this with the detroit in the rear. Course you only want so much if you're talking sharp turns...I turn off my ARB since this is the most likely time you will stress one of the ujoints up front. I will take several swipes at a turn as the best approach, that way I usually can leave the ARB on if needed for that last minor turn.
 

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BIGT2317 said:
ok then after reading your replys then i don't see any sense of puting a LS up front then for less than $100 more you can put a detroit locker up front.

Travis
Well, yea, there is no comparsion from a traction point of view. the other added benefit is that depending on what LSD you were planning on, a full Detroit locker (not lunchbox lockers), in comparison is a very sturdy unit. Many LSD's are also of the clutch variety, which of course wear over time.
 

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The one thing I didn't see mentioned here is driving in crappy weather. If you're likely to be on snow/ice much you should really put a selectable locker up front. Automatic lockers can provide very unwanted steering input in these conditions and drive your ass right off the road, wheras you would have been fine on dry pavement. That being said, I opted for an Aussie locker up front and have had no problems with it at all, and for $250 delivered I think it's a heck of a deal. Of course it hasn't snowed since I installed it...
 

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BigT2317, glad you found this site as it's specific to Broncos. It matters not what your front axle has when in 2WD, whether the manual hubs are locked or not. Only when in 4WD does a locker limit steering or turning radius. My experience has been that when driving tight trails in the mountains, you really like a selectable locker like the ARB or similar where you can unlock the axles from inside the cab. That's on very sharp turns, like around a tree or over a large rock. As stated, driver finess can help out in the turns with a Detroit locker, but you still may need to pull forward and backup to negotiate a corner. We seldom if ever have snow or ice here in Texas, and most of the ORV trails are either rocks or hills. I think you'll be fine 98% of the time with any type of traction aide in both axles at places like Shiloh Ridge or Katemcy Rocks. Any are a big improvement over an open axle.

I'm still trying to convince you to do the SAS up front, and this is a big reason for that. The D44 TTB stock axles and u-joints will suffer more breakage with a locker up front under severe offroad use. That's been my experience as well as several others I've 4wheeled with. JSM84:rockon
 

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what exactly is a spool?? if i was to get a detroit locker, does that take place of the old carrier and will the new gear bolt to it??
 

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As to the question of steering with an ARB engaged...it's often like punching jello. You tend to need to over steer and need a larger turning radius. Often you will have a hard time turning at all in a slow moving situation when you have a large amount of traction with your front wheels until you start rolling a few feet.

But adding a ram solves that problem.;)


IMO...unless you are doing a gear change as well I'd just run a Lock Right unless you know how to set up gearing or have the cash to have someone that does do the install becaue a carrier change requires more then just an average shade tree's tool box.
 

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i am runnin powertrax lockers fron and rear and love them. I have a power trax lock right up front and no slip in the rear. I have abuse them for a couple years now and have no complaints. My father and i installed them in our drive way in a weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well i'm swapping gears to 4.56's as well so they are not charging me to put the lockers in. It's $665.00 the install the front gears w/ a detriot tru trac and rear gears with detroit locker, but now i'm thinking to do lockers in both diffs. is that a good deal?

Travis
 
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