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1987 Bronco XLT 351 Windsor 5.8L carb 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright so I had to replace my timing cover cause the mechanical fuel pump thread got a crack in it. Well upon taking the cover off I noticed a lot of slack in the chain. I got a video here of it. I need to know if I gotta get it TDC before taking gears off???? Well I can’t post the video.
 

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You should, yes. In order to have correct valve train timing you need to line up the marks on the sprockets. If you remove them randomly the cam may turn just a bit and you'll be all messed up.
I guess you *could mark where the marks are on the front of the block before pulling sprockets, as well as mark the cam end and crank end on the front of the block so if the cam shifts you can realign everything.
But, FAR easier to just get it TDC comp stroke first.
Very easy to do with the timing cover off. Socket on the crank bolt and turn until they are aligned. If you pull or seriously loosen the plugs first it's easier to turn as the air won't compress and fight you from the cylinders.

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1987 Bronco XLT 351 Windsor 5.8L carb 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I got the gears off made sure they was aligned up and put new gears on and chain and made sure they was aligned. Now the issue is at the bottom of the timing cover at the oil pan there’s alot of red rtv or something like that. Does all that have to come off and put more in the same spot when putting it back on?
 

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Clean it all off, use a good degreaser so new RTV will stick and seal. You should have the gasket that goes under the crank for the round part of the pan up on to the flat part. You'll need RTV at the end where it meets the block.
Don't drop any chunks in the pan. You should drain/change the oil afterwards as a precaution. If you dropped anything in there it will hopefully come out the drain plug hole.

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1987 Bronco XLT 351 Windsor 5.8L carb 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Clean it all off, use a good degreaser so new RTV will stick and seal. You should have the gasket that goes under the crank for the round part of the pan up on to the flat part. You'll need RTV at the end where it meets the block.
Don't drop any chunks in the pan. You should drain/change the oil afterwards as a precaution. If you dropped anything in there it will hopefully come out the drain plug hole.

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Oh great that sounds like a pain in the ass. I definitely stuck a shop rag In the gap there so nothing would fall into it. Also there is a rubber type piece that fits in the bottom of timing cover there’s like a grove there for it looks like a piece of belt maybe lol but I assume that’s the piece you mean and just rtv the sides of it and the flat part of oil pan and I should be good to go? How much would you put like an inch wide thick or half inch wofe thick
 

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Enough to stop oil from coming out. A good blob at the meeting places, but not so big you get globs in the oil pan.
It's really not too bad of a PITA. Even with a rag in the gap, it's still good to change the oil afterwards.
The rubber piece fits in a small groove you will see In the oil pan rail. Anywhere you have two gaskets come together put a dab of RTV.
I would install the crank seal last since you didn't drop the pan to do it. That let's you set the timing cover down on the pan lip and bolt it on. When you install the crank seal tap it on slowly and evenly. Gives you wiggle room that would otherwise be gone. A tiny smear of RTV around the seal will lube it up for easier entry and seal any imperfections.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Enough to stop oil from coming out. A good blob at the meeting places, but not so big you get globs in the oil pan.
It's really not too bad of a PITA. Even with a rag in the gap, it's still good to change the oil afterwards.
The rubber piece fits in a small groove you will see In the oil pan rail. Anywhere you have two gaskets come together put a dab of RTV.
I would install the crank seal last since you didn't drop the pan to do it. That let's you set the timing cover down on the pan lip and bolt it on. When you install the crank seal tap it on slowly and evenly. Gives you wiggle room that would otherwise be gone. A tiny smear of RTV around the seal will lube it up for easier entry and seal any imperfections.


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Soooo I got everything on. I did as you said and everything went on smooth oil pan bolts went right in timing cover bolts right in but as I was inspecting the new timing cover there is a hole going straight to the chains. The new timing cover came with these small silver caps and I lost them. I don’t even know how to install them.
 

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Glad it went together well!

You mean little threaded caps to fill the holes? Some motors used a timing cover oil dipstick. Not sure if the thread, maybe a 1/4-20? Snap a pic of what you're looking at.

If that's what it is just put a small dab of RTV on the threads and install. A very small dab. It does not have to be real tight, just snug as the RTV will seal the threads

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Glad it went together well!

You mean little threaded caps to fill the holes? Some motors used a timing cover oil dipstick. Not sure if the thread, maybe a 1/4-20? Snap a pic of what you're looking at.

If that's what it is just put a small dab of RTV on the threads and install. A very small dab. It does not have to be real tight, just snug as the RTV will seal the threads

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Yeah I’ll take a pic really quick. I already installed it so hopefully it’ll be okay to do with it on. Let me go out there and get the pic.
 

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Yes, you'll need to plug the hole. If you have the old timing cover can you remove it from there? It is just a threaded plug.
Or a VERY short bolt will do the same thing.
Test fit/thread a couple to get it right.
I think it's 1/4-20.

Maybe someone else knows for sure? Or just test fit a few to get it.

Your valve cover bolts are 1/4-20 so you can try one of them in there if you don't have a plug.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, you'll need to plug the hole. If you have the old timing cover can you remove it from there? It is just a threaded plug.
Or a VERY short bolt will do the same thing.
Test fit/thread a couple to get it right.
I think it's 1/4-20.

Maybe someone else knows for sure? Or just test fit a few to get it.

Your valve cover bolts are 1/4-20 so you can try one of them in there if you don't have a plug.

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Yeah it’s just strange the new hole doesn’t have any threads to it? It’s smooth? That’s what got me stumped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, you'll need to plug the hole. If you have the old timing cover can you remove it from there? It is just a threaded plug.
Or a VERY short bolt will do the same thing.
Test fit/thread a couple to get it right.
I think it's 1/4-20.

Maybe someone else knows for sure? Or just test fit a few to get it.

Your valve cover bolts are 1/4-20 so you can try one of them in there if you don't have a plug.

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Also how would I go about removing it from old one as there isn’t anything to get ahold of?
 

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Ok, maybe I'm missing something. Is it a blind hole or can you see inside with a flashlight?
Let me go glance at my cover.

It actually looks like the top of the hole that the oil pan bolt is in. If you feel under it is there a bolt head? If so you are good to go.

On mine the bolt is long enough to be seen from the top, filling that hole.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, maybe I'm missing something. Is it a blind hole or can you see inside with a flashlight?
Let me go glance at my cover.

It actually looks like the top of the hole that the oil pan bolt is in. If you feel under it is there a bolt head? If so you are good to go.

On mine the bolt is long enough to be seen from the top, filling that hole.

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Alright look at this I found online, you can see the hole coming through and the little caps they give you.
White Font Gas Circle Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok, maybe I'm missing something. Is it a blind hole or can you see inside with a flashlight?
Let me go glance at my cover.

It actually looks like the top of the hole that the oil pan bolt is in. If you feel under it is there a bolt head? If so you are good to go.

On mine the bolt is long enough to be seen from the top, filling that hole.

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I think it’s the oil dipstick maybe? But mine is in the pan so I can just plug thag hole maybe with jb weld?
 

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Odd that it's not threaded. But, if it leads to oil yes it needs filled. JB weld would do it, but if it were me I'd use RTV as it sticks to the metal well as long as it's oil/grease free. My issue with JB is if it loosens and falls out. Or in.

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