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I have a guy that might want to trade a 87 Bronco 4.9 with a manual tranny for my 87 E-250 van. His bronco has 97,000 miles on it. He said something about the timing gears needing to be replaced. He has the parts and is going to do that. He listed it for $1500 or trade for a cargo van. I will happily trade my van for it if he will take care of smog on the van. What manual tranny should I expect to see in that? Also, he figures the A/C will have a leak and need a recharge. How much does that normally run?
 

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The most likely stick would be a Mazda M5OD-R2 (code M), but there's a chance it has the MUCH stronger 4-spd. BW T-19 (code A or B). I wouldn't give it more than a 5% chance of having the ZF S5-42 (code Z), but if it does, the trans alone is worth ~$1,000.



If the A/C hasn't been converted to R-134a yet, plan on doing that. It's cheaper than replacing the R-12, even if it only needs 1 can, and if it's converted correctly, it works just as well. "Correct" means emptying & flushing the system, changing the accumulator & orifice tube, adding a hi-pressure switch, & using PAG-42 oil. The $25 kit at Wal-Mart is NOT correct - don't buy it, or allow anyone to do that to your truck.
 

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Well, I am starting to lean towards this trade. I ahve 2 Bronco's I am looking at. One is a 5.8W with and AOD Eddie Bower. Nice inside and out. New tires. and 140,000 miles. ($3200)
The Other is a straight trade for a Van I want to get rid of anyways. It is an '87 4.9 I6. with Tranny code "A". Bench Seats, but had A/C. The guy just replaced the timing gear (he said they go out at 95,000? a nylon gear) and water pump. He is also doing a tune-up to it. I want to be able to drive her on weekends to tahoe, ca. And when I move motorcycles. Either the dirt bike or my race bike. The '87 would need a paint job and some minor interior work. a rip here and there. What am I getting myself into..... :popc1:
 

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The 300 motor is very reliable and gets decent mileage, and the trans that Bronco has is strong as well. With the torque that motor has you won't have any problem hauling stuff, just make sure it has the rear sway-bar. Do what Steve said and just convert the A/C before it gets hot out. To recharge R-134a is simple and cheap. If you are going to just be driving it to haul stuff, and don't necessarily care about the appearance of the truck, you can just Durabak it.

I would trade the van.
 

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The I6 timing gear has a phenolic ring (not nylon) to reduce noise, similar to the rubber ring in a harmonic balancer. Mine has over 300Kmi on it.

If you plan to tow, get the stick. The AOD need$ upgrade$ before towing, and it's still unreliable.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sweet. The truck itself isn't as nice. But I need to remember I am broke. And need something that is solid before pretty. When I switch to r-134a. I do not want to get the Wal-Mart kit, right? There is alot of talk about a kit that is $40 at Kragen's or Napa. Is that the correct one?
 

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AFAIK, no one makes a kit for Fords. You have to buy the stuff piecemeal. Refer to my previous post. You can also find a lot of info on converting correctly by searching.
 

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Bronkin' 'Round!
94 XLT 351 E4OD 4" Superlift 88 XLT AOD about to put on 4" Pro Comp lift
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svracing460 said:
There is alot of talk about a kit that is $40 at Kragen's or Napa.
Same kit as the Wal-Mart one. It's made by a brand called EZ-Chill, and I used it on my truck. I haven't had any problems but if Steve says it's sh*t, then it's sh*t. Looks like I'll have to do mine the right way sooner or later.
 

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'94, '92, '88, and '84 Broncos
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Prolly gonna be the M5OD which is a fine tranny in a bronco for daily driving and haulin as well. If it's the super strong T-19 four speed it'll never break, you just won't have overdrive.

Rare occurances of the ZF5 300 combo have been spotted in F250s.

Adrianspeeder
 

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Clarko said:
...if Steve says it's sh*t, then it's sh*t.
I'm just saying it's wrong. It doesn't address dessicant compatibility, O-ring compatibility, the gelling effect R-134a has on mineral oil, proper PAG oil weight for Ford compressors, or the orifice tube change that's needed to get the same performance out of the system. :shrug Obviously, the system WILL still cool with that kit, but it's like saying an engine WILL run with 50W oil in the crankcase. :popc1:
 

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For ONCE I know what the hell Steve is talking about. I saw all that sh*t on Truck Universe today. :)
 

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Steve83 said:
I'm just saying it's wrong. It doesn't address dessicant compatibility, O-ring compatibility, the gelling effect R-134a has on mineral oil, proper PAG oil weight for Ford compressors, or the orifice tube change that's needed to get the same performance out of the system. :shrug Obviously, the system WILL still cool with that kit, but it's like saying an engine WILL run with 50W oil in the crankcase. :popc1:
Hey, just in case you think I'm being sarcastic or anything, I'm not. I just thought I sounded like that. I dunno, it said something about having specific oil that's r-12 compatable. I dunno, I rarely ever use the A/C and I just wanted to see if it still worked honestly. What is dessicant compatability? And how much does the orifice tube cost?
 

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A dessicant is a chemical that absorbs water. It's in the accumulator/drier, and the really old stuff (pre-'90???) doesn't work with R-134a, like the old O-rings. The red orifice tube is under $10 at most parts stores; R-12 uses a blue tube, which has a larger orifice. This one USED to be red...

 
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