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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased this Bronco about two years ago. Am now trying to get it road worthy, before I go offroad.I had already replaced the alternator, solenoid, and have just put in a working transfer case. Been driving but having starting problems once warmed up. Decided to do a good tune up, as it has sat quite a bit. Picked up plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter, Oil & Filter. I had put a Pint of seafoam into the gas and oil on the last fill up. I had just filled the tank, and as i went to leve the parts store. It decided to take a big crap in the parking lot. After about 15 minutes af attempts, I jumped out and went to pull the fuel filter. I pulled the carb side first, and fuel came out but not all that much. When i pulled the other side off had a lot of back pressure and sprayed out. I put the lines back on started right up. After getting home began on my project. The cap on my existing coil was broken (PO, left me many surprises:twak )
I have my battery at the parts store charging right now, and am getting ready to change my battery cables. I am lookin at gettting a new cap for the coil hoping I can get by with just rigging it for now.
I also am swappin my light switch in hopes I can get dash lights once again. I am hoping to get this set up by summer with a lift, and going through front suspension. Lots of plans,

"I know that Im a dreamer, but Im not the only one!" John Lennon
"I get by with a little help from my friends!" Ringo Starr :rockon :rockon

Thank you FSB for the help and info as this project progresses :popc1:
 

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cjansen37 said:
I pulled the carb side first, and fuel came out but not all that much. When i pulled the other side off had a lot of back pressure and sprayed out
Carb side? Your 87 is carbed? My 87 came EFI.. Guess I was lucky..
First thing I would do would be swap out your front hubs, axles, and spindles if you have the "top hat" style hubs like I do... Easy to change, but a pain to find cause the axles are different then the other kind..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Depends on how you look at it I guess. Right now i just want to get it started. pulled ground cable but after market cable goes straight to block. Original was grounded to frame as well. does it matter? can i run a jumper to the frame from the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Only when warm?

So I get all the stuff swapped out, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, new battery cables. It fires right up, running good, we go for a ride stop at the store I go to fire it up and it wont start up. Turns over ok, backfires through the exhaust, then it would fire up and run id start to go then it would die.
Finally got it running and it stayed running to get me home. :banghead

So if my battery is good, tested charged and charging when engine is running
Im getting spark, I admit timing may be a degree or two off.
If Im not gettting gas, why only when it heats up do I have the problem. Assuming same problem as before clogged fuel filter!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
stranded !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I went to drive to work this morning, truck stalled out. When I went to start up again the starter would not disengage it just kept spinning. I turned truck off and it kept going. Turned ignition on again and truck started and it disengaged. I started driving and about a mile later took a big crap in the road.
This time i tried to start it and the starter just spun.


I am wondering about my catalytic converter. If my cat is clogged how does it act. How can i diagnose this.

Bronco stalls out after warming up. New cap, coil, rotor, plugs, wires, battery cables. Will run fine then couldnt restart. Had a lot of back pressure on fuel filter( clogged ) changed fuel filter. Still performs the same!


Help. I have read through countless threads, I would like to be able to diagnose problem rather thankeep throwin money at it :whiteflag
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will pick up a vaccum gauge and a multimeter tomorrow. Ill sit down and study the manual. As far as the cat being bad Im just grasping at straws and everyone is giving me their backyard mechanic opinion. (Blind leading the Blind) :doh0715:

I ran the ground from the frame to the block. New cables cleaned mating points. While the coil is new the Electrical plug on top was cracked, I will get one at pull a part. Werent available at the zone. I will test it also!!!

As far as the old fuel filter, already gone, but ill pick up a new clear one tomorrow. If it clogs again I will inspect more closely.

Not able to start at this time but will test and replace the starter as necessary.

Thank you and Ill let you know what i learn tomorrow:shocked
 

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Try and get all the info you can to Steve.. I've learned he knows just about everything with the bronco.. (Wish I had someone like him close to me) But then again with this site I'm learning a lot on this site awfully fast..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Vaccum gauge readings

No didnt say **ck it. Had to work for a couple of days. Here is what I know so far:popc1:

Replaced starter, fired right up. Started it up today and let it warm up. Once at operating temp. I began testing!
Pcv held 7 hg
carb has 3 hoses attached
#1 which goes to a vac on the front top side of motor held 10hg going away
#2 was a bigger hose and it held 18hg steady for entire time of test
#3 goes to dist. vac.


There are 5 visible vaccums and then the modulater on the trans.

I plan on testing them as soon as i can get the engine to start again
Started up idling about 1500 then after warm dropped to 800 then ran for a bit and died.

I dont know if you get anything from what ive tested so far. I am going to have to wait for a bit to test anything else that needs engine running.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
oh yea

the five vaccums
1 egr no vaccum
2 on top of pass valve cover held 10
3 exhaust tube
4 top front of engine held 10 goes to #1 on carb
5 vac on distributor no vac idling or revved goes to #3 on carb
vac mod on transmisson

There was a vac line under front of carb held 17 while idling
 

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I will also side with Steve83 on posts like this. The more specific you ca nbe the better. It will take some time to check the wiring in the ignition circuit. I had a problem with the starter solenoids going bad, as those are a 'weak' link in the system. Running a separate ground to the frame as well s one to the engine helped out. The true cause was corroded wiring from the alternator and high resistance. Any corrosion on your cables or wiring, a short in the circuit, or a bad ground are 99% of the time the reasson for a hard start. But if all of that is new and good and your timing is off, the engine will never start and you can possibly damage the valvetrain. If you're doing the vacuum checks, learn to use a timing light, too. Final thought is on the carburetor, which I assume is on a 5.8L if it's an 87 (last year before EFI). IF you have an electric choke, be sure it's getting about 6-7 volts. If you have a hard-start problem, pull the air cleaner lid and see if the choke is closed. I often carried a piece of wood or a stick to hold the choke open on my old carb. The original carbs can be so worn out after 20 years that even a rebuild kit is not effective. Read up and check out the carb as a source of your problem.
 

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Man, until i read that sticker I figured someone swapped out the fuel injection and put in a carburator, but it actually came from the factory with a carb...interesting.
 

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If you aren't getting any vac to the dist. you must fix that first. like steve talked about, fix what you know is bad. Try to check for intake leaks. perhaps after the truck warms up the expansion is causing a bad seal. my 302 leaked in back on the 4 side and had similar symptoms.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oops jumped the gun on that one
I am getting vaccum from the carb on that line. I am also getting vaccuum from a line on the back of the egr valve on the back of the carb a line runs from there up to a line on the top of the firewall.

Truck seems to want to start up and run but after it gets warm it starts shutting down. It did that earlier today and i was able to look down into the carb and saw that i was getting gas.

When it is running it holds steady rpms right at 900 and it just stops running, doesnt run rough it just stops. Then it wont restart for a while, or it will start but only for a min or two.
:banghead
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Would 17hg be considered low. That was coming from the line under the carb.? Then had 18hg from center hose on carb. But needle was steady did not fluctuate.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So are the lines i am checking the correct ones that would tell me if i had a leak in my intake or vaccum lines. i am not familiar with the vaccuum set up first time running a test of this sort.
 
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