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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ran a search on this and found similar problems but My situation is a little different from the ones I saw. Though I could be using poor keywords in my search.

I recently bought an 89 Bronco XLT 351efi 4x4 with an auto(c6) tranny and manual hubs. The problem is after the enging gets warm the idle gets wonky when coming to a stop and it will putter out and die. At this point the motor will crank but barely. It acts like it has zero power. If I wait awhile it will crank just fine and start back up, but eventually die again when it gets hot. I can keep it running if I keep a foot on the gas when coming to a stop. I've gone through and Replaced the Coil, PIP, Ignition Control Module, Cap, and Rotor to no effect. Though the engine feels smoother/stronger now it still dies. I also pulled the Idle Control valve and it's shiny and new and clean.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I can barely get to work, let alone run errands as this is my only vehicle.
 

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Could be your Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR), Fuel Filter, EGR, etc. etc.

Is your Check Engine light on? If so pull the codes (search and they will tell you hoe to do it or go to AutoZone and have them pull them with a OBD-I checker). If your light isn't on you could have a burned out bulb on the check engine light hehe.

There are several threads here that might help yeah out. Get the codes and someone here can help ya.
 

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Turn the key off and let it sit for 15 seconds or so. Then turn the key to the Run position (don't start it) and see if the Check Engine light stays on.

Steve83 has the instructions on how to pull the code by using a jumper wirer (aka a paperclip) and you count the flashing lights. Counting can be a pain thats why I suggested going to a place that will read them for you for free or go to O'Rielly's and buy the coder reader for $30 (that's what I did and it's help me out a lot, well worth the money to me)
 

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Well an engine needs fuel, air and spark to run properly. I suspect a fuel issue, maybe vapor lock? But I don't think that's common on fuel injected engines, not sure though. If it's ignition related, the timing could somehow be changing on you. I think if it's advance too far it will increase starting effort? Is it pinging? Maybe try retarding it a few degrees?

Good luck, I know how frustrating it can get,
Biederboat
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Turn the key off and let it sit for 15 seconds or so. Then turn the key to the Run position (don't start it) and see if the Check Engine light stays on.

Steve83 has the instructions on how to pull the code by using a jumper wirer (aka a paperclip) and you count the flashing lights. Counting can be a pain thats why I suggested going to a place that will read them for you for free or go to O'Rielly's and buy the coder reader for $30 (that's what I did and it's help me out a lot, well worth the money to me)

Is this the code reader you're talking about?
 

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Yes the CODE READER (FORD CODE READER) Item No: 3145 for $29.99 is the one.

These engines can self adjust the timing via the EEC computer and it's based on several sensors. One you get the codes then you can troubleshoot the sensor giving the code and resolve it by replacing it or cleaning it. A vacuum leak will cause the timing to change so make sure you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere.
 
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