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Discussion Starter #1
hello all. my name is paul. i am a new vendor here on FSB. i was referred here by my good buddy ed (struckby). i am a ford transmission technichian and gen 1 lightning enthusiast. as you know the gen 1 lightning uses the E4OD transmission. i have been offering my E4OD products to the lightning community for some time now. and now i am offering them here for e4od bronco owners.

there are 2 versions of my accumulator valve body. this is the forward most v/b in the transmission. these valve bodies are built to make shifts firmer. also they address common problems inherent to the factory e4od body. such as valve hang up/sticking. broken springs, modulator failure, etc... this can cause soft shifts and even loss of specific gears, clutch damage.

the accumulator body replacment is very easy. there are no check balls, valves or springs, etc to deal with. they come ready to bolt in. install time is approx 1.5 hrs. comes with detailed instructions. heres a link to a customer write up of the install: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...58#post2796858

*STREET*: nice firm shifts. the more throttle you give the harder it shifts. great for towing and trucks running moderate hp levels. i can make these valve bodies shift how ever you want. just tell me your mods and general truck uses...... towing, racing etc and i can make it shift how YOU want. $200.00 SHIPPED

*COMP*: extremely firm, quick shifts. part throttle shifts may be banggy. recommended for extreme hp and race trucks. not recommended for daily drivers. this valve body will leave rubber on every shift. for serious off road use. $200.00

i do not charge a core. i do however ask that my customers return their old valve body. kind of like the honor system. if you cant, just let me know ahead of time when ordering. i have been doing it this was for awhile now and it has worked out great.

please specify year when ordering. as there are 3 different castings. E9, F5, F6

i also offer the same for newer 4r100 trucks such as deisels, lightnings, super dutys etc.

[email protected] 203 560 2848 thank you!
 

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WTG Paul.

Paul has one heck of a reputation for his work. If anyone ever needed professional and honest work along with an EXCELLENT product Paul is the person to go to.

Even shipping a complete transmission to Paul is worth it. You'll prob pay LESS or about the same in shipping as compared to local taxes.


Cool thing is it will be done right the first time and you'll have a reliable product that is NOT a run of the mill re-build/product.

Search around on www.nloc.net and find out for yourself where The BEST E4OD's and valve bodies come from!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
WTG Paul.

Paul has one heck of a reputation for his work. If anyone ever needed professional and honest work along with an EXCELLENT product Paul is the person to go to.

Even shipping a complete transmission to Paul is worth it. You'll prob pay LESS or about the same in shipping as compared to local taxes.


Cool thing is it will be done right the first time and you'll have a reliable product that is NOT a run of the mill re-build/product.

Search around on www.nloc.net and find out for yourself where The BEST E4OD's and valve bodies come from!!

wow ed! thanks for the kind words.

i understand im new here and guys dont know me. theres also plenty more info on my products from people who use them...on www.lightningrodder.com and www.delvallo.net just search "punisher"
 

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Whats a "street" full rebuild for a 90 e4od going for?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i only build the trannies one way. no stages, etc. my build using the e4od geartrain runs $2499.00 this is a build! not a rebuild. ive got this trans behind mid 10 sec lightnings.......at full weight. 4500lbs.... i understand the bronco is probably heavier.

for those who make some serious power....700+hp... i recommend installing a 4r100 geartrain in an e4od. these run in the $3K range. theres a alot of custom machining/parts that go in them. they dont break.

either way they are full of revisions, snap ring upgrades, double clutch capacity in some areas, fully rollerized, pump and lube mods, and custom center support mods.......
 

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Hi Paul,

I've seen you posting on several E4OD threads and you seem very knowledgeable. Welcome!

Couple questions since one day, I will be needing someone's services, and needing to send someone lot's of money for my E4od rebuild:

1) From post #1, "please specify year when ordering. as there are 3 different castings. E9, F5, F6
". How do we know which one we have, where would this info. be found on the tranny beside just giving you the year of the vehicle, perhaps the little side plate on the drivers side?
2) you sell a valve body kit, but I've seen several writeups on E4OD's that discussed numerous clutch, TC, other internal upgrades to make the tranny very strong, long lasting, and reliable. Do you sell any of these other upgraded parts? I'm not sure about shipping my tranny to Connecticut from Colorado, but rather finding a local trans shop I trust and buying the needed upgraded parts to supply to them.
3) Any thoughts/advice on:

a) external stock cooler that came with tow package (seems to work ok for me but I don't have a tranny temp guage)?
b) added external fluid filtration?
c) bypassing the radiator?
d) adding a tranny temp guage....temp taken off sensor in pan, or where is best?

You don't have to answer all the stuff here, maybe intro. yourself and your credentials and put some of that stuff in the Tech section, should you feel like responding.

Thanks again and welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the castings i refer to are in the valve body itself. if your bronco has the original trans. say a 93.... you will have an E9 casting in the v/b...it goes like this:

E9 89-94
F5 95
F6 96-2004

so basically i just need to know the year of the truck when placing an order. in some cases a reman has been installed....and some are frakenstein units. so your 93 may have an F5 casting. so if one were to buy a v/b from me. just be sure when you make the swap that you compare the item i sent you with the one you take out. they shoud have the same casting prefix. the # is right on it.

i dont sell a parts kit as of yet. mainly because some of my parts are custom made and modified. for me to put a whole kit together would cost quite a bit of money. plus... in my experiences and readings on the forums...many trans shops just plain suck at putting an e4od together. now you have issues of shops blaming kit parts for problems when the whole time they were not installed properly....... i just dont have time to get into a pissin match with another shop....

my lightning makes over 600hp. i still run the factory tow cooler. i believe they are the same piece..... its a decent cooler. bypassing the radiator is just fine IMO.....i say keep em cool! if you really itch to replace the cooler there are other factory ford coolers that are really good. the 6.0 diesel cooler is huge! and some of the newer super duty coolers are real nice. i built a C6 for a friend in jersey. truck makes 900hp. runs 9.80s. he had one of those heat sink style moroso frame rail coolers....trans would get a bit warm between passes...i told him to get the super duty cooler.......he has not had an issue since. ill try to get the part #.......

the best place to get the trans temp is the line pressure port in the driver side of the trans. it is a small 11mm pipe plug. the auto meter sender threads right in here. nice clean install.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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I'll have to go look for that plug on the drivers side. I really want to put a temp gauge in, just didn't think the bottom of the pan was the most accurate place for a reading, plus I don't want it hung up offroad.

I am still running the factory towing cooler, seems to work fine, and have no desire to bypass the radiator, though others here have (places with more "winter" I think could use the moderation provided by running through the radiator).

Any thoughts on added external filtration, we have threads on that too? Personally, I don't feel it necessary when I am changing the fluid about every 20k and cleaning the magnet/bottom of pan good, and a new internal filter.

Also, thoughts on use of Synthetic?

I'm a cornacopia of questions tonight, eh?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i myself am not a fan of the external filters. i dont see a need for them.

synthetic fluid is nice but not necessary. i see people report trans temp drops when switching to synthetics. but i have not seen it in person. this week i got ahold of a gen 2 lightning trans 4R100 that had low mileage but had a ton of 1/4 mi passes on it. most in the low 10s. he bought one of my race trannies and i had his old one as a core. i opened it up and couldnt believe it. it looked great. just a few burn spots in the 3rd gear clutch. but hard parts and most clutches were in beautiful shape. this thing took some abuse! what fluid did he use? reg non syn mercon. and changed it every season. the only mod to the trans was a PI converter and valve body upgrade similar to mine.....
 

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Sounds good. Keep in mind, here in FSB land there might be some with autos and mudpits (more HP and lots of RPM and probably lots of heat on the tranny due to mud resistance but also getting caked with mud), and maybe some running higher HP and dunes running, but many of us are also trail/rock crawlers/slow going (me included, I avoid mud). so, I have a stock 351/larger tires/4.56 gearing. I've been very happy with my stock E4OD to date (138k, '95 unit). I'd want a rebuild that will last reliably another 200k+ under similar circumstances. It would not need to worry about lots of HP. But it would have to deal with slow going trails, dusty conditions, maybe some moderate towing on rare occasions.

I'd think shipping costs would be killer as far as trying to get you a tranny to rebuild? My thing is I want this particular tranny rebuilt (when the time comes). I don't want to send someone my tranny as core and get someone else's tranny back.
 

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the castings i refer to are in the valve body itself. if your bronco has the original trans. say a 93.... you will have an E9 casting in the v/b...it goes like this:

E9 89-94
F5 95
F6 96-2004

so basically i just need to know the year of the truck when placing an order. in some cases a reman has been installed....and some are frakenstein units. so your 93 may have an F5 casting.

...this comment alone makes me want to send you my v/b for professional inspection. I may have my truck down for a few weeks this summer so I may send it Paul :thumbup

so if one were to buy a v/b from me. just be sure when you make the swap that you compare the item i sent you with the one you take out. they shoud have the same casting prefix. the # is right on it.

i dont sell a parts kit as of yet. mainly because some of my parts are custom made and modified. for me to put a whole kit together would cost quite a bit of money. plus... in my experiences and readings on the forums...many trans shops just plain suck at putting an e4od together.
...yup heard this one before too. Thats the cool thing about when Paul does it. He knows and uses his own work/product for the same thing we would....off-road, racing etc.. You have to be "in the hobby" to "know" what to do.


now you have issues of shops blaming kit parts for problems when the whole time they were not installed properly....... i just dont have time to get into a pissin match with another shop....

my lightning makes over 600hp. i still run the factory tow cooler. i believe they are the same piece..... its a decent cooler. bypassing the radiator is just fine IMO.....i say keep em cool!
yup did it on mine w/ no probs here in Fl. Trans gets to operating temp in reasonable time


if you really itch to replace the cooler there are other factory ford coolers that are really good. the 6.0 diesel cooler is huge! and some of the newer super duty coolers are real nice. i built a C6 for a friend in jersey. truck makes 900hp. runs 9.80s. he had one of those heat sink style moroso frame rail coolers....trans would get a bit warm between passes...i told him to get the super duty cooler.......he has not had an issue since. ill try to get the part #.......

the best place to get the trans temp is the line pressure port in the driver side of the trans. it is a small 11mm pipe plug. the auto meter sender threads right in here. nice clean install.
...tried to multi-quote above
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a question i have a 117XXX on my e4od and i am not sure sure if the fluid has ever been changed. The fluid doesn't burnt and it shifts fine, are there any issue's with changing the fluid after this many miles.

Thanks.

an age old question. heres my theory......if the trans shifts just fine....and the fluid is not burnt smelling, severly discolored, varnished etc...then i think you can get away with it.
 

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How would one of these "street" valve bodies benefit in a bronco. Aside from firming up the shifts. Mostly street driven and few moderate rock crawling/trail riding. Are there any performance gains or is the main goal longer life?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
the valve bodies apply more pressure to the clutch packs. this shortens the time it takes to apply the clutch. this keeps slippage and heat down. the factory shift is "slipped" in...for customer comfort. this creates heat and wear.

the valves are revised pieces that feed more fluid to the clutches and are profiled to prevent them from sticking

the springs are also changed for a more aggressive shift. the spring stops are stiffer to prevent them from bending when the valve bumps them.

in short. you get a nice firm shift for a performance gain..... but at the same time some issues/problems inherent to these valve bodies are addressed. so its a durability and performance mod.
 

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the valve bodies apply more pressure to the clutch packs. this shortens the time it takes to apply the clutch. this keeps slippage and heat down. the factory shift is "slipped" in...for customer comfort. this creates heat and wear.

the valves are revised pieces that feed more fluid to the clutches and are profiled to prevent them from sticking

the springs are also changed for a more aggressive shift. the spring stops are stiffer to prevent them from bending when the valve bumps them.

in short. you get a nice firm shift for a performance gain..... but at the same time some issues/problems inherent to these valve bodies are addressed. so its a durability and performance mod.

Would this valve body be worthwhile for a factory E4OD w/ 165k miles? If yes, would I couple the valve body with a shift kit or does your product eliminate the need for one?
 
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