Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
a few pics of the progress
used a 76 d44 and 9"
deaver 10 leaf packs 6"
deaver coils 6"
just using stock coil towers for now and doetsch shocks will eventually swap out coil and shock towers
pretty much a budget build







pic of 70 series r-arm brackets that didnt work

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
finally finished, heres some updated pics, I know my front driveshaft pinion angle is off, I dont have the 7* c bushings in yet, waiting until I can modify the coil cups to fix the arch in the springs, I know the trac bar angle doesnt quite match the steering arm angle but I dont have my chevy tres in yet so itll have to do, I also have to swap steering gears so Im waiting to swap pitman arms until then, I would like some feedback on my r-arm bracket and my trac bar setup though















35's look small on there, getting some 37's
I stuck with the stock coil towers, the front sits noticably higher than the rear, Im going to let the springs settle for a bit, not quite sure how long it takes them to be completely settled, but I will be doing a rear shackle flip
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
what will it affect with the length it is right now? the same year f-250s and 350s have a similar trac bar setup but it bolts to the back of the engine cross memeber but they are leaf spung
 

·
Registered
1996 Bronco 5.8l E40D(soon to be ZF) 4:56 and 35s
Joined
·
502 Posts
It looks pretty damn good. I think your shorter trac bar is limiting your articulation.

Your caster looks off but you said you are going to use different c-bushings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
yeah I still gotta throw those bushings in, it measured at about +3* so the -7* should be perfect, I was just f-in around with my highlift flexin it in the driveway and noticed that the coils were trying to rotate out of the retainer clips on the coil towers, so I didnt go any higher, Im probably going to make another retainer clip to put on them so they cant rotate out. That would suck being out on the trail and having that pop out. I just got my new column in today so this weekend will be puting new steering column, gear and at least those bushings in. Can't wait for dem chevy TRE's to come in so I can get some legit linkage under her.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
428 Posts
Any updates? Is a budget sas, looks easy too, I like that. Aparently the crossmember is no a problem for you. The pics are great to see flex, try to put some more flexing after the update. At the moment I still getting parts to do my sas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
what will it affect with the length it is right now? the same year f-250s and 350s have a similar trac bar setup but it bolts to the back of the engine cross memeber but they are leaf spung
As your suspension cycles the trac bar is going to have a different arc than your drag link. It causes some bump steer and can limit your suspension travel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,823 Posts
Looks good but be sure to extend those front brake lines longer! Also your front pinion agle looks prety crapy but maybe the 7* bushings will correct it enough so you dont destroy ujoints. Good Luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,400 Posts
Extend your Trac bar to the frame and youll be good. :thumbup
Looks like a legit budget build....except for those Deaver rear leafs:goodfinge
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Definitely get bigger tires and 2 more shockls for the front
when I have another 2k to drop on tires ill get some 37's or 38's, Im doing alright with the doestch neutral shocks they ride nice and are pretty f-in beefy, I'd have to fab up some kind of bracket off the top of the rad-arm cap to add the second shocks, well see how it rides after the weight of a dom tube winch bumper and winch are added

Looks good but be sure to extend those front brake lines longer! Also your front pinion agle looks prety crapy but maybe the 7* bushings will correct it enough so you dont destroy ujoints. Good Luck.
I've already had the brake lines lengthened. I think its just the angle of the pic, but they still have another 3-4 inches of droop in them. I ended up using the stock lines but swaped them sides, as the 76 calipers are angled differently, ended up working out very well. I just need to add some retaining springs from the arc of the line to the frame to hold them away from the tires. I noticed the tires rub them when turning sharp. havent really been wheelin it until I change the bushings I dont want to destroy the new u-joint up front. I also have to fix the upper coil retainer clips, as they do nothing other than keep the coils from popping out at ride height, springs want to rotate out when flexing.

Extend your Trac bar to the frame and youll be good. :thumbup
Looks like a legit budget build....except for those Deaver rear leafs:goodfinge
Will have to do the longer trac bar, the guy that was helping me with the SAS is runing the stock shorter one on his 350, but thats also leaf sprung, but he has never done this type of swap and its my first rodeo as far as SAS's go so its a learning process. and whats wrong with the deaver rears? I know they are pricey, but.....
I'm finding myself having to possibly do a shackle flip because the rear is sitting lower than the front now, by about an inch and a half, I dont know how much further the coils will settle with the bumper and winch on but well see
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Any updates? Is a budget sas, looks easy too, I like that. Aparently the crossmember is no a problem for you. The pics are great to see flex, try to put some more flexing after the update. At the moment I still getting parts to do my sas.
Yeah I was going to do a motor rebuild, as I have a windsor all torn down sitting in the garage, but this thing only has 89k miles on it yet so I decided to use my TDY money on the SAS. I kinda put everything together in about a month, including getting all the necesary parts and doing the swap. I have been wanting to do a SAS on my 91 for a while, but the motor was failing and had an oportunity to sell it so I went for it, and did the swap on the 89. Its at a streetable condition now, after swapping the steering gear, but the pinion angle and steering linkage is giving me touchy steering and minor bump steer. I used one ton linkage as a temporary setup until I get the 1PM-TRDA100 TIEROD/DRAGLINK ASSEMBLY .188" wall from partsmike.com. From what I read this should work out for me. One of the reasons we went for the shorter trac bar was because of the x-member clearance issue, but I guess Ill have to have a bend in the longer trac bar to clear it.
 

·
Registered
1996 Bronco 5.8l E40D(soon to be ZF) 4:56 and 35s
Joined
·
502 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Not saying that that isn't a good deal but .188 wall DOM seams thin for steering.

This kit is cheaper with .250 wall DOM. Weld in bungs though.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-Chevy-Tie-Rod-Ends_p_1338.html

Just a thought.
Yeah I was just going to use the ends and use the same stuff I used for the trac bar which is .250 wall DOM. I've seen this kit before, glad you said something about it though. I'll have to ream and sleeve the knuckles and use the drop pitman arm until I can find some flat tops and do a high steer. I don't really mind weld in bungs at all so thats not an issue either. I was surprised with the one ton linkage Im using now the TRE's are longer and narrower....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,400 Posts
Will have to do the longer trac bar, the guy that was helping me with the SAS is runing the stock shorter one on his 350, but thats also leaf sprung, but he has never done this type of swap and its my first rodeo as far as SAS's go so its a learning process. and whats wrong with the deaver rears? I know they are pricey, but.....
I'm finding myself having to possibly do a shackle flip because the rear is sitting lower than the front now, by about an inch and a half, I dont know how much further the coils will settle with the bumper and winch on but well see
Haha, you're reading me wrong....I was just teasing :toothless Deavers are great! Ill end up grabbing a pair once my 6'' Superlifts kick the bucket.
As far as the shackle flip goes, how are you looking for your truck to sit? Level? Rake? LOTS of rake? ;)
Im pretty sure a winch bumper+winch will get you level, so if those are your plans, Id do that before messing with the rear.
In the meantime, here is a currently ongoing thread on Shackle flips: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107736


Yeah I was just going to use the ends and use the same stuff I used for the trac bar which is .250 wall DOM. I've seen this kit before, glad you said something about it though. I'll have to ream and sleeve the knuckles and use the drop pitman arm until I can find some flat tops and do a high steer. I don't really mind weld in bungs at all so thats not an issue either. I was surprised with the one ton linkage Im using now the TRE's are longer and narrower....
STOP!!!!
High steer will not work out with coils, so save your money. Ask me how I know :banghead. Shadowfax was another who attempted this. Your tracbar will have to sit almost perfectly horizontal and will SEVERELY restrict your suspension travel.

+1 on the Ballistic Fab kit. Same one I used and worked great. Get it, ream your knuckles from the top, swap to a stock pitman arm, extend trac bar mounting point to the frame, and you will be money. :thumbup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
yeah I know you were kidding I saw the :goodfinge, but I figure Ill be adding about 200 lbs to the front with the winch and bumper. Im deff not trying to tackle a shackle flip before that though. I've got plenty of other things to accomplish. So even with the six inch the high steer wont work? Well that doesnt matter Ill be using 1 1/4" .250 DOM tube for the linkage so I think that it'll hold up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,400 Posts
...So even with the six inch the high steer wont work? Well that doesnt matter Ill be using 1 1/4" .250 DOM tube for the linkage so I think that it'll hold up...
I tried with almost 8'' and no dice...shadow had a similar amount of lift. Honestly, theres no real need for it. You more than likely wont even need a drop pitman arm.

Are you talking 1 1/4'' ID or OD? Reason Im asking is most are running 1.5'' OD x .25'' wall. Any thicker than that and I think youd start to run into issues with the Tie Rod making contact with the Drag link.
.25'' DOM is plenty strong.:thumbup
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top