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I Bought this 89 Bronco 4x4 with a 302 & AOD with 125,000 miles last week and we are working to get it in good running condition, for my daughter to take it out of town to school.

I am still tring to work out the transmission problems. It will not stay in over drive, it just revs at about 45. Drive has not wanted to engage once too, just reved a few times then it moved along just fine.

We have done work to it everyday thanks to this sites help/info. and now it only has 3 codes to work on, can anyone help us.

They are all KOER
#12 - Rpm at idle out of range / high
#25 - Knock not sensed during dynamic test
#44 - Thermactor air injection system inoperative (right side)

One last thing can anyone tell me why the red dash light that reads rear brakes is on ? It is Not low on fluild which was my first guess. Brake are all good and working right.

Thanks again - for your help and support
 

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penis
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I Bought this 89 Bronco 4x4 with a 302 & AOD with 125,000 miles last week and we are working to get it in good running condition, for my daughter to take it out of town to school.

I am still tring to work out the transmission problems. It will not stay in over drive, it just revs at about 45. Drive has not wanted to engage once too, just reved a few times then it moved along just fine.

We have done work to it everyday thanks to this sites help/info. and now it only has 3 codes to work on, can anyone help us.

They are all KOER
#12 - Rpm at idle out of range / high
#25 - Knock not sensed during dynamic test
#44 - Thermactor air injection system inoperative (right side)

One last thing can anyone tell me why the red dash light that reads rear brakes is on ? It is Not low on fluild which was my first guess. Brake are all good and working right.

Thanks again - for your help and support
The rear ABS light is more then likely a faulty sensor and it should be amber,

Code 12 did you rev the engine before the test was to be preformed?

code 25 knock sensor is not either pluged in, wires broke, or just bad replace the knock sensor that should solve some of the problems.

code 44 the only EEC interfaces with the Thermactor system is with the solenoid behind the pass.side shock tower,that supplies vacuum to operate the two valves after the air pump.

Here is a link scroll down to my post and read the directions make sure you follow them. http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177509
 

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yo, good stuff!
Some more on;
DTC 44 (KOER); Right Thermactor Inoperative; "...I had a similar issue that turned out to be the vacuum line to the Thermactor Air Bypass Valve. No CEL, just a code; 1. First check that the two vacuum lines are connected to the Vacuum Reservoir (coffee can) and the resevoir is in good repair with no leaks on the bottom. Frequently the can leaks or the vacuum lines are accidentally knocked off. Check the vacuum hose to the bottom of the Bypass Valve. Check the vacuum hose to the Diverter Valve. Check the vacuum hoses to the TAB/TAD Solenoids. Then check your TAB/TAD Solenoids. These are common easy to miss problems. Once these are ruled out all that is left is: Thermactor Air Supply Hoses. One-way Check Valves. Main TAB/TAD Valves..."
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB

DTC 44 (KOER); Right Thermactor Inoperative; "...indicates a Thermactor Air System leak which could be anywhere from the smog pump up front to include EGR solenoiids over on the right inside fender liner and all the way to the back of the engine which is what you see in the photos. There is also a smog tube that runs along the passenger side engine below the valve cover which runs to the back of the FI plenum up to a Air Bypass Valve (plastic) crossing over to the cross-over tube (exhaust) which is connected to that and the CAT, check valve and tube below. the Thermactor system is designed to capture spent gases and ultimatley send them down to the CAT to burn off etc. If you look closely you'll see the chek valve and CO tube is pipe threaded, use some anti-seize and don't over tighten and when putting the valve on the tube, you don't need a gasket for the CO tube ends but rather just use some bearing grease which melts and forms a nice gasket seal. this is a tip from Steve83; gaskets burn off and go away after a while and you're back with another vacuum leak etc..."
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB
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2ndry air system Overview & Diagram; "...Secondary Air Injection system consists of a belt-driven Air Pump, single or dual AIR Diverter (AIRD) valve(s), an AIR Bypass (AIRB) valve, and AIR Bypass solenoids, air silencer/filter, Powertrain Control Module and connecting wires and vacuum hoses. The Belt-Driven Secondary Air Injection system provides either upstream/bypass air or upstream/downstream/bypass air. The number of these system configurations vary significantly with AIR Bypass (AIRB) and AIR Diverter (AIRD) valve combinations (Figure 179). 2. The PCM provides one or more signals that enable one or more AIR Bypass solenoids. 3. The AIR Bypass solenoids control one or more AIR Bypass valves and/or AIR Bypass Diverter Valves in order to route secondary air depending upon the specific configuration. 4. The belt-driven Air Pump is operational any time the engine is running.
The 2ndry air system is known to fail in a wide variety of ways. The check valves that prevent hot exhaust from entering the rubber hoses age, rust, leak, & crack open melting the plastic TAB & TAD valves, creating exhaust leaks that can damage other components, raising exhaust oxygen levels (setting lean codes or rich adaptive limit codes), and making rattling noises. The hard steel tubing between the exhaust & the check valve can rust or crack (especially the infamous "crossover tube" on the backs of V8 heads). The vacuum controls leak (including the coffee can reservoir on the R wheelwell) (Miesk5 NOTE, this is the Vacuum Reservoir (VRESER), it stores excess vacuum to prevent rapid fluctuations and sudden drops in a vacuum signal, such as during acceleration) get misrouted during other repairs, or the diaphragms rupture. The electronics that control the vacuum controls can fail electrically or mechanically, or the wires can be damaged. But all of these failures are either A) relatively cheap & easy to repair, or B) cheap & easy to prevent with normal inspection & maintenance..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Vacuum Leak Test; On an idling engine check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a ~3' garden hose section. Don't spray flammables on a running engine. MIESK5 NOTE; Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body; PCV line; vacuum reservoirs: EGR Sys Vacuum Tank & 2ndry air (coffee can); AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball type), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; power brake booster; cruise control ckt, etc.... where applicable; (combined w/ Steve83's info, thnx) BEWARE OF BELTS/PULLEYS, FAN AND HOT ENGINE
Source: by miesk5 & Steve83

FSB
Vacuum Line Acronyms & Color Codes; Red = Main vacuum; Green = EGR function; Orange = Heat control Valve (exhaust & intake) (AKA heat riser but more complex); Yellow = Distributor advance; White = EGR vacuum (source); Black = Mainly used for the Evaporative emissions control Black = Thermactor ACV or Diverter valve Blue = Throttle Kicker control; Pink = Thermactor Air Bypass Valve (TAB or (BPV) /AIR Bypass (AIRB) valve - ACV (Air Control Valve) is the TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) Valve (AIR Bypass (AIRB) and AIR Diverter (AIRD) valve combinations) MAN VAC is Manifold Vacuum FPR is Fuel Pressure Regulator EGR is Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Valve SOL V: Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid (SOL V) (AIRD) & Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Solenoid EVR is EGR Vacuum Regulator VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can (Tank); V REST on later years is Vapor Valve (Roll-Over) V REST on earlier years such as SEABRONC's 83 is a Vacuum Restictor/delay valve, it delays vacuum for a certain amount of time Carbon Can is Carbon Canister (Charcoal Canister, Vapor Canister, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister) MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor AIR BPV is the AIR Bypass (AIRB) Valve; also called the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve CPRV is Canister Purge Solenoid Valve/ Canister Purge Solenoid (CANP) VCKV is Vacuum Check Valve CAT is catalytic converter ENG is engine PCV is Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck), Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) & miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
 

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more..
12 KOER System cannot raise engine speed Check the IAC valve. It may be stuck or sticking. And then ck inside Throttle Body port for "coking" (gunk); clean it out...also ck the IAC's connector & wiring for corrosion, etc.

Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/724437
Overview & Testing; "First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I’ve had the torture of learning throughout the years: Idle Air Bypass •Idle Air Control •Idle Speed Control •Throttle Bypass Air •Idle Bypass •Inlet Air Controller •Inlet Air Bypass •Intake Air Bypass •Intake Air Control..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39


Removal & Cleaning Source: by Bobby (blue) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25878

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25 Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging)

Location pic in an 89 5.0; "...After you have unplugged all the injectors, temp sensors, AC, oil sender, distributor and whatever else you can see, including this knock sensor at the rear pas side of the motor,..."
Source: by Waltman at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10222/55357

"...knock sensor which is in the back and easily missed..."
 
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