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Discussion Starter #1
First, it will fire and run for a bit on ether or if I setup a gas iv through the air intake:

But if I'm not spraying ether or using the gas iv, the Bronco will not start. I've replace the in tank pump and the pump on the frame. I've also put on a new coil, rotor, cap, wires and plugs.

I'm thinking it's with the fuel system, some where. Thought I would post here to see if there's some simple things to check that could be causing a fuel delivery problem.
 

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Check in order....

Did you check all the fuses?

Can you hear the fuel pump(s) running with the key in run (before you actually try to start it)?

Do you have 45 psi at the fuel rail? - attach a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the drivers side fuel rail

Are getting voltage to the injectors? - unplug the electrical connector at any fuel injector, have someone turn the key and using a miltimeter or an anode light, check for voltage.
 

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Make sure that the fuel inertia switch is depressed.
On my '90 it is high on the driver's side firewall by your left foot.
 

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I'd pull codes from the computer and see if there any elec/electronic faults with the fuel relay, fuel injectors and fuel pumps as there are no codes for FPR= fuel pressure regulator, this would be a vaccum issue, old/dirty fuel filters aren't going to have that kind of an effect unless the system is fouled with mud from Submarine activites Off Road.

AND in addition:

Check the throttle body blade angle for air induction that it's not fully closed with the linkage or if held open by hand, TPS = throttle position sensor, voltage setting could be off or it's failing and you might as well check the IAC = idle air control sensor on the side of the throttle body. Back probaing procedures are in the Haynes Manual.


There is a Ford Racing Performance Parts "idle setting procedure" Instruction Sheet (Techline (800) FORD788) steps 1-9 on How To adjust idle by disconnecting the IAC using the throttle body idle stop screw, drilling out the mounting screw holes on a newer "plug & play" TPS so you can adjust it for voltage setting.

In the past the ideal setting was thought to be .93-.97 volts or just under 1 volt but recently posted information regarding this appears the setting should be between .55v-.75 volts.

Posted by FSB member Jermil01 recently:

Wanted to update this thread based on some TPS adjustment information I got from one of my tuning sites. This goes against the conventional wisdom of setting the TPS closer to .95 range. Thoughts??

Regarding any ECU controlled function (and idling conditions in particular), before any strategy based adjustment can be made by a computer controlled system, it must first run somewhat normally in a default and OL mode.

To do this with a FORD you must first follow a few rules.

You must keep the TPS input above the deadband area and below the "tip in" area. On a FORD this equates to below approximately 0.9V and above 0.45. Anything above 0.90V the ECU thinks the throttle is starting to open. This brings into affect possible dashpot and fuel cut strategies which can turn one grey real fast. Below approx 0.40-0.45V the system suspects an incorrect input and substitutes a default figure.

So first off, the TPS should be set to around 0.55-0.75V. You can also disconnect the IAC then disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes, reconnect and the computer should default back to factory settings.

Inertia Switch was designed to shut off the fuel if the vehicle is in an accident or rolls over!


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well....didnt get to work on the Bronco as I hoped too today...but was wanting to get it into the garage, jumped in and for shits and giggles turned it over and she started up, but only hitting on 2-3 cyls.....ENGINE red light on....ran enough to get into the garage with a few restarts....but that's all she would give is hitting on 2-3 cyls.

Need to check the frame fuel pump, make sure it's hooked up correctly, pushing the fuel in the correct direction. Now there is a reservoir or something between the tank and the high pressure fuel pump, has anyone taken that assemble out and apart? any chance that could be clogged up or anything?

I'm still thinking it's fuel related at this point. Have to get out the OBD-I scanner and see what codes I have.
 

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The inertia switch will kill power to the pumps??
Yes... that's its job.

In the event of an accident that pierces a fuel line, you don't want a pair of pumps squirting fuel onto a fire. The inertia switch kills power to the pumps in the event of an accident.
 

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Anyone one {have} a fuel pressure gauge that they've used and like?
Yeah, the Actron CP7817 from Autozone did the trick for me. :)

Be careful not to lose the special Ford adapter. BTDT

Ordered a new one from Actron for cheap but in the meantime
I went and bought another whole new set, used only the adapter
and replaced the adapter when the new one came in the mail and
took the new set back to Autozone. They knew the whole story. :)

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Running into the garage half-dead, I'm figuring was a good thing,
maybe produced more codes for you? :)

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I'm not all that good at counting the codes, this is easier...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/Equus3145.jpg

Alvin in AZ
ps- it'd be cool if it was just that switch, I'm bettin' not.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, I was a bit surprised that she started to fire up when before she didn't fire at all after replacing both pumps.....so I figured to run her into the garage and see if I could get some codes. Have an ODB-I code scanner, just have not used it in a while...have been using the ODB-II scanner more....but will have to break out the ODB-I scanner and see what's there and see if it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can that reservoir get cloged? You bet it can!
http://broncozone.com/topic/19532-d...cummilator-filter/page__p__102959#entry102959

***AHHHHH this would make some sense to the problem that I'm having!! I never changed or did anything with that reservoir...changed the filter on the other side of the HP pump, changed both pumps now (one in tank was not fun!) and still having issues. Bronco is in the garage, out of the weather, so I can get her up on stands, get under and take that reservoir out and see whats going on with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay pulled the codes and I got:
23 - Throttle position TP sensor signal voltage out of self test specifications
24 - air charge temperature act sensor or Vane air temperature VAT sensor signal voltage is out of specification (engine off) or not at normal levels (engine running) OR electronic distributorless ignition system EDIS fault faliure in coil 1 primary circuit.

OKAY ...really like the OBD II code reader setup better....the OBD I is flashy lights, beeping and counting!!! BUT with check the TPS out to see what is going on there.....will have to look into the ACT and/or VAT sensors....can tell you working on this problem I can tell you where the Vane part is coming from!!!! There is a distributor so can be the OR part of the 24 code.



This Bronco always ran really well and I want to get her back to that state!
 

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I tripped my inertia switch a couple times in my 88 Ranger, most annoying damn thing I ever encountered with that truck, keeps you from doing some bad ass wheeling. they are easily bypassed though, just get a piece of wire, pop it open and stick the wire in there.
 

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If you have the black plastic fuel "reservoir" that's on the drivers side frame rail under the transfer skid plate then get a Craftsman "strap wrench" which works wonders to unscrew the bottom "bowl" revealing a hockey puck style filter with O ring, filter hole in the center goes face up to meet the fuel nipple inside the cap/top which is bolted to the frame with inline/return fuel lines attached.

I've never had to trip the inertia switch to reduce fuel pressure so if you don't run the vehicle over night NBD....the "cartridge filter" and O ring, part # 33268 by Fram listed at O'Reillys costs $7.49 and # CG3862 Fram may be the same part - FSB member Petlover07 "fuel reservoir leakage" thread has pictures of the filter and reservoir - dtd 12/23/2007. There are more FSB reservoir filter threads etc. I found this one quickly but don't know how to do the link thing, sorry!

The cap has 2 stems, 2 small O'rings (Napa) and is spring loaded for pressure so the reservoir stays full rather then starv the system when cornering, up/down hill and extreme Off Road angles, as it was designed.

There is a reservior thread here with pictures, how to change filter/Oring, rebuild the pressureized cap OR buy a brand new reservior from a NorCal Ford Dealership for around $89.00 out the door.

Make sure when screwing the bowl back on there are no gaps in the threading, it should be threaded all the way up "closed" like a jar and lid otherwise fuel will piss out everywhere.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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you changed out fuel filter right?? whats your fuel perrsure reading??? check the safty fuel switch. fuel pumps are working??? what else have you tried????
 

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Discussion Starter #20
you changed out fuel filter right?? whats your fuel perrsure reading??? check the safty fuel switch. fuel pumps are working??? what else have you tried????
changed out fuel filter - check
fuel pressure reading - gauge inbound, will know shortly
fuel safety switch - check
fuel pumps - both pumps are new and working
took all injectors out and cleaned - check
check fuel pressure regulator
all new fuel - dumped and cleaned tank when tank pump was changed.
New plugs
new plug wires
new disty cap and rotor


Read codes, getting 23 and 24, going to pull the TPS off and test that then try to find the ACT and see what's up with that.
 
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