[krosa3]

So I have an 89 bronco with a 5.0. We just started having trouble with it in the beginning of the year and can’t seem to figure it all out. It started to stall on me when I would turn it on some days and other days it would work fine then out of nowhere it would stall while I’m driving so we thought it might be a fuel thing so we got some things replaced like spark plugs, both fuel pumps, the fuel filter and cleaned out the tank and it’s 10x better because it actually drives now. But it backfires sometimes and while I’m driving I’ll lose throttle and can’t use the gas but I can still steer and use the brakes and everything else still works so it’s almost as if it’s stalling but only the gas and the car isn’t turning off and I have no clue what it could be. We also went through all the wiring in the truck and made sure it was okay and replaced it if it needed to be and did the timing belt.

 

[Jimmy Dean]

checked injectors?

 

[bratcop]

That year bronco has a timing chain, not a timing belt. I only say that because I wouldn't want an unscrupulous mechanic to say he did the timing belt and charge you. I would suspect ignition components. I would start with new cap and rotor, then ensure coil wire and plug wires aren't arcing somewhere (run in dark garage with hood up) and lastly, I would suspect tfi ignition or components within distributor. If I was confident on distributor, I would buy reman Motorcraft unit and put it in. If u have friend with f150 or bronco same/similar year, swap distributors and try. The hall sensor/pip in distributor is known to go bad causing roving no start and stall... Good luck.

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[krosa3]

checked injectors?

I don’t think so. I’ll check to see but if not I’m guessing that would be a good idea?

 

[krosa3]

That year bronco has a timing chain, not a timing belt. I only say that because I wouldn't want an unscrupulous mechanic to say he did the timing belt and charge you. I would suspect ignition components. I would start with new cap and rotor, then ensure coil wire and plug wires aren't arcing somewhere (run in dark garage with hood up) and lastly, I would suspect tfi ignition or components within distributor. If I was confident on distributor, I would buy reman Motorcraft unit and put it in. If u have friend with f150 or bronco same/similar year, swap distributors and try. The hall sensor/pip in distributor is known to go bad causing roving no start and stall... Good luck.

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Thank you for letting me know about the timing. We have a 95 bronco with a 5.8w would that distributor work to try or no?

 

[bratcop]

I'm not sure, I would look up the replacement part online for what u need then check it for the other bronco and see if the part numbers match...

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[Rpatt2612]

When it comes to stalling while turning, my 89 had that problem. It was the ignition switch.
Now I have ran into the same problem when it comes to using the gas, I have a loud banging noise but it doesn’t seem like misfire to me.
I’m thinking it’s the distributor as well. I’m going to replace the cap this week. Ive been told to replace the ignition coil and fuel pressure regulator as well.

 

[Clarko]

We have a 95 bronco with a 5.8w would that distributor work to try or no?

Those two are different. The oil pump drive shaft is smaller on the 5.0 and the 95 would have a steel gear since it has a roller cam.
Check your TFI module, it's on the side of the distributor on an 89. Auto parts store has a tool called an ignition module wrench for getting the screws out. It's under $10 and so worth it. I had a similar problem when I put my 88 back together. Swapped modules since I had another and it's been great. Traditionally I would recommend Motorcraft but they changed suppliers and I'm not sure of quality now.

 

[Siggy89]

When it comes to stalling while turning, my 89 had that problem. It was the ignition switch.
Now I have ran into the same problem when it comes to using the gas, I have a loud banging noise but it doesn’t seem like misfire to me.
I’m thinking it’s the distributor as well. I’m going to replace the cap this week. Ive been told to replace the ignition coil and fuel pressure regulator as well.

While you're at it replace the rotor. So the full list should be Distributor cap, rotor, Fuel pressure regulator. Then I'd double check all the corrections at the starter relay AND double check your vacuum lines. Especially the connection from the FPR to the intake plenum. You may end up finding some of those little plastic lines broken and in need of replacement with rubber or silicon.

 

[Rpatt2612]

I will do that. Thanks for the recommendation! When I took it to autozone they used their tested and said the voltage regulator was bad as well as the starter. Replaced the regulator. Will probably do the starter as well

 

[Clarko]

I will do that. Thanks for the recommendation! When I took it to autozone they used their tested and said the voltage regulator was bad as well as the starter. Replaced the regulator. Will probably do the starter as well

You should swap to the later starter if you can.


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[Rpatt2612]

I will look in to that. Hopefully all of this will get my truck to a point where I can drive for longer than 5 minutes haha.

 

[Siggy89]

I will look in to that. Hopefully all of this will get my truck to a point where I can drive for longer than 5 minutes haha.

I second the newer starter. I changed mine over last month and it works WAY better.

 

[miesk5]

Yo krosa3,
Welcome!
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual and; release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO and KOER.

A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS⚠

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.

Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl jowens126 HVAC Control Panel info & Mikey350 tests @ Help with dtc codes and idle
□●□

Here is some info for you; 1989 Ford Bronco EVTM, Emissions (yellowish/red book cover) & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @
1989 Service manual - Google Drive
Slow scrolling, so download for faster viewing and to see the table of contents, the search feature, etc.

1989 Ford Bronco Dealer Brochure

1989 Bronco Lubricant Specifications by Ford via Gary

Register with VIN to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site

For any Bronco questions, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.

On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Forum FAQs includes for example, How to Use Search. How To Save (Bookmark) Threads Or Posts, How To Upload Images To Posts and more tips!

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)

See and Vote in our current Full-Size of the Quarter Contest & later, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing.
Also see the prizes!

Al

 

[tbrooks]

I second the newer starter. I changed mine over last month and it works WAY better.

What kind of newer starter are you talking about? I have an '89 XLT with 5.0 and it is coming up on needing a new starter. Thanks in advance for any information.
TB

 

[bratcop]

Newer model f150's had a high torque starter that is physically smaller. It requires some minor re-wiring if I'm not mistaken. I've done it and it works great. Search around for starter upgrade...

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[Siggy89]

It's not a big deal to do if you're not afraid of electrical work. Cost is roughly the same, just have to add one additional wire.

The wiring changes are detailed in this thread here: How To Properly Wire Your PMGR Mini-Starter

 

[tbrooks]

Newer model f150's had a high torque starter that is physically smaller. It requires some minor re-wiring if I'm not mistaken. I've done it and it works great. Search around for starter upgrade...

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Thank you - I will have to check this out!
TB

 

[bratcop]

Np

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