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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a fully functioning 89 XLT (351W/C6) that I bought as a donor for the 89 EB that I am fixing up...which is mostly interior cosmetic stuff and a little exterior lens parts.

What I wanted to know is "What parts should I pull and keep for the future?from the donor?". These would be either parts that are hard (or impossible) to find from Ford, JY, or 3rd party sources, or might be the more expensive parts. I want to send it to Pick and Pull soon, but want to keep the "good" stuff.

I know the obvious answer is "everything"' but I want to get a 78 or 79, and I need the space where the donor is parked to put it.

What prompted this was a call to Ford for an EGR, and it was almost $250! The local auto parts store could order it, for $99. Guess what part I am pulling today.....

My list includes:
Engine/trans/xfer
Heater core
Bumpers
Windshield (perfect)


What else?
 

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Is the tailgate in good shape?
 

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Cut yourself a chunk of the rear bed to use as a patch panel in case you need to get at the gas tank/sender...
I'll pay $15 + shipping if someone can get me a piece approx 15" square. I need one for my access panel.
 

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On the heater core unless the one in the donor vehicle can be confirmed to have been a very recent replacement I would not bother with that.

Heater cores for the Bronco's are not very expensive at all new and with the work entailed to replace I would not put one in that was not new or very close to being so.

Just a personal preferance maybe but things of that nature I prefer new parts over used.

One thing that may be good is to keep a lot of the interior electrical switches, some of those can be pricey or hard to find new.
 

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The frame that the driver's seat rides on has a tendancy to crack.
Ditto on the interior switches. The window/door lock switches were $60 last time I checked in 2010.
IF you are pulling the engine, be sure to pull the PCM that goes with it.
Wiring harnesses are expensive and difficult to find. I understand that often when a junkie pulls an engine, they just cut the harness at the connector to speed the pull.

If you don't want to keep the harness, you might want to clip and label the connectors each with 6-8 inches of wire. That would make testing components easier some times.

Perhaps the external fuel pump... easy enough to get to, and they do fail. However the in tank pump.. ? I'm thinking that if I went through the effort to replace it, I'd go new. On the other hand if you plan to make an access panel, then it is a judgement call... how much room do you have?
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I had heard that the newer heater cores were not an exact replacement and would not fit. If that is not the case, then I will let it stay with the truck.

Great call on the switches and the seat frame. I plan on trying to keep the wiring harnesses as well, since I will be taking apart the dash.

As far as putting it on a buddy's property, not a lot of room around here to store extra vehicles. Plus, we have HOAs around here that would freak if I parked a rig on our property. I happen to have a little room at my place of business, but again gotta make room for a future Bronco.

What about the side glasses on the back and the back window....motors?
 

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For sure keep the rear drive shaft with the flanges. That will give ya one to rotate out when needed. I had a hard time finding the right flanges for my 89 when someone ripped off my drive shaft while parked at the airport.
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Wow! drive shaft. Never would have considered that. The list is getting longer, but all good stuff. I also pulled the headliner. This are usually real screwed up in the JY.
 

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LS Swap Everything!
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What color is the interior, and did you use the rear cargo carpet?

I'd save the rear seat, I'd save the topper windows, Hell, I'd save the topper too.

I would also keep the Y pipe and cats.
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Interior is tan, and all the carpet is pretty much ruined. The PO hauled around oil covered auto parts. However the trim is good as are the door panels. I painted them black plastic paint and am putting new fabric on them to swap with my DD.

Cat and y pipe goes on the list.
 

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If the rear window works I would keep all parts out of the tailgate concerning the rear window.

Rear windows can cause problems.
 

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I'd pull that cannister that sits on the fuel lines between the gas tank and the frame mounted fuel pump.

Gasket went bad on mine, and no auto store could even find what I was talking about, even with the part sitting on their counter.. .LOL.
 

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My suggestion depending on how much room you have to store parts is to take anything you can. I am working on a 90 custom. I bought an 89 XLT just for the tailgate (which turned out to be rusted behind the "pretty" panel) for $350, No motor, and no tranny. I sold the rear bumper for $100, tailgate motor for $40, seats, spare tire rack, spare tire for $275, auto locking hubs for $42, dash cluster and driver side door trim for $20...all on craigslist. So far out of it I have used the battery pan, I have trough and through rusting in my 90 on my driver rear wheel well that I will cut out and either rivet or weld in place of the rusted one, fuel tank access metal cutout (cut a hole in my 90 to access the sending unit for the fuel tank and cut a "door" out of the 89 to cover the hole), tailgate motor switch, and the body mount bushing metal. During the replacement of my body mount bushings I managed to warp/cut/break a few of the mount metal pieces. This replacement set at JBG are $389 for the whole set...plus shipping here to Alaska...about 1.6 million...not really but close. I also plan to put the XLT power doors on the custom as it has manual doors. Just my 55 cents worth...
 

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How did I get 6 Rigs??
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607 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I guess I got a deal on mine at $500! No rust to boot. I have a feeling I am going to almost be disassembling the whole thing and putting it in boxes. Thanks for the input. Appreciate it!
 
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