Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

91 e4od torueq converter lot unlocking???

6317 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  theramsey3
91 e4od torque converter not unlocking???

i think my torque converter is locking at in appropriate times when i put the truck in reverse or drive it wants to die if you hold the brake and give it a little gas it kind of bogs down then it idles up and is fine until you switch gears and it does the same thing again go through the process in drive after every time it makes it to 4th gear even after you turn the od off to get to 3rd gear before stopping it wants to stall hold the brake then give it some gas it idles up and is fine as long as it never makes it back to 4th would it be the torque converter or a solenoid or just crap in the trans fluid is clean the leak i previously posted about has subsided for about 2 weeks and is holding fluid fine trans shop says it is unexplainable
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
ok so i am still curious what my problem is with out a teardown but i think i am just going to eventually replace it with a granny 4 any one else made this swap what did you have to buy i know it is pretty straight forward and i shouldnt have many problems i am curious about drive shafts though i know i will need clutch pedal, flywheel, clutch kit, clutch master and slave cylinder or linkage assembly(depending on the style bellhousing i get) any one have any suggestions for me i have 3L55 rear 3.54 front and will eventually run atleast 35s maybe as much as 44s
if you really want a granny 4 speed do it, but my 5 speed is pretty good. It just won't tow for crap. I've got my real truck for towing though so it isn't an issue for me. I think my stock 5 speed is rated for 2k towing capacity... that pretty much eliminates anything but a mid size boat... Other than the towing though, it's great, good highway cruising, and i've got the low range for anything else.

as per your question, my powerstroke was doing the same thing, then it just quit moving forward... Trans is out of truck and on my stand now. I'm thinking burnt up clutches were getting in the converter... all orignially caused by... a leak... sounds similar. looks like you're ready for a transmission. It was leaking, then stopped, then started locking up the converter and choking down my powerstroke, then on my way to work without any prior warning (slipping I mean) it just quit moving forward... It would barely move if i feathered the throttle.

anyhow, either find one and start rebuilding it now so you'll have it to swap in and still be able to drive yours, or if you've got money, just buy a good rebuilt one. sounds like the same thing though, the leak burnt up some clutch material and was hanging in the converter making it lock up...

good luck, I hope that's not the case.
See less See more
I think thats exactly what happened. I got a used one now and will start rebuilding the other one after i get the tires spinning again. Thanks every one!
yo,
Here ya go;
E4OD Shudder; "...If the shudder occurs a) during the 3-4 or 4-3 shift at HEAVY throttle, or b) at 40mph in 2, OD OFF, and OD, or c) at the same RPM in every gear, or d) coasting, cruising, or in R, or e) during extended light braking, then it is NOT TC clutch shudder;

The following is a list of common vehicle concerns that have been misdiagnosed as torque converter clutch shudder. For diagnosis of the following items, refer to the appropriate sections of the workshop manual and the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual (PCED).
Spark plugs - check for cracks, high resistance or broken insulators. Plug wires.
Fuel injector - filter may be plugged. Fuel contamination - engine runs poorly. EGR valve - valve may let in too much exhaust gas and cause engine to run lean.
Vacuum leak - engine will not get correct air/fuel mixture.
MAP/MAF sensor - improper air/fuel mixture. HO2S sensor - too rich/lean air/fuel mixture. Fuel pressure - may be too low. Engine mounts -loose/damaged mounts can cause vibration concerns.
Axle joints - check for vibration..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

-

Have you checked for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) yet?
Do the Self Test;
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44736
I run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.
then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc.

Do KOEO portion first
For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.
Post any codes found here or look em up in my broncolinks.com site.
See less See more
yo,
Here ya go;
E4OD Shudder; "...If the shudder occurs a) during the 3-4 or 4-3 shift at HEAVY throttle, or b) at 40mph in 2, OD OFF, and OD, or c) at the same RPM in every gear, or d) coasting, cruising, or in R, or e) during extended light braking, then it is NOT TC clutch shudder;

The following is a list of common vehicle concerns that have been misdiagnosed as torque converter clutch shudder. For diagnosis of the following items, refer to the appropriate sections of the workshop manual and the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual (PCED).
Spark plugs - check for cracks, high resistance or broken insulators. Plug wires.
Fuel injector - filter may be plugged. Fuel contamination - engine runs poorly. EGR valve - valve may let in too much exhaust gas and cause engine to run lean.
Vacuum leak - engine will not get correct air/fuel mixture.
MAP/MAF sensor - improper air/fuel mixture. HO2S sensor - too rich/lean air/fuel mixture. Fuel pressure - may be too low. Engine mounts -loose/damaged mounts can cause vibration concerns.
Axle joints - check for vibration..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

-

Have you checked for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) yet?
Do the Self Test;
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44736
I run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.
then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc.

Do KOEO portion first
For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.
Post any codes found here or look em up in my broncolinks.com site.
I think I know what torque converter shudder is and dont think I am having any I could be wrong though. I dont have any codes set koeo, koer except for the egr system which has been bypassed. The original problem which I quoted below is the torque converter bogging the motor down and stalling it out when the truck is placed in reverse or drive until it is in gear and you power brake the truck then it is good until it either gets to overdrive or you put it back in neutral. Then it bogs the motor down again. No worries though I got a used one that hopefully works better than the one in the truck. I am always trying to learn something new.

i think my torque converter is locking at in appropriate times when i put the truck in reverse or drive it wants to die if you hold the brake and give it a little gas it kind of bogs down then it idles up and is fine until you switch gears and it does the same thing again go through the process in drive after every time it makes it to 4th gear even after you turn the od off to get to 3rd gear before stopping it wants to stall hold the brake then give it some gas it idles up and is fine as long as it never makes it back to 4th would it be the torque converter or a solenoid or just crap in the trans fluid is clean the leak i previously posted about has subsided for about 2 weeks and is holding fluid fine trans shop says it is unexplainable
yo,
Ok, I wanted to post that in case you were not sure since you did mention that "would it be the torque converter or a solenoid" question.
So no codes, ok
Next is the "the leak i previously posted about has subsided for about 2 weeks and is holding fluid fine trans shop says it is unexplainable..."
Did you see the tranny fluid on the ground or around frame, rear bumper, etc.
If not; then,
Low Transmission Fluid Level And Or Shift And Or Engagement Concerns TSB 97-12-13 for 87-96 Bronco & many others; "...transmission may have low fluid level and/or may have either a shift concern and/or an engagement concern. This may be caused by transmission fluid leaking from the transmission into the transfer case through the transfer case input seal. Replace the transfer case input seal..." read more
by Ford via thedieselstop.com
yo,
Ok, I wanted to post that in case you were not sure since you did mention that "would it be the torque converter or a solenoid" question.
So no codes, ok
Next is the "the leak i previously posted about has subsided for about 2 weeks and is holding fluid fine trans shop says it is unexplainable..."
Did you see the tranny fluid on the ground or around frame, rear bumper, etc.
If not; then,
Low Transmission Fluid Level And Or Shift And Or Engagement Concerns TSB 97-12-13 for 87-96 Bronco & many others; "...transmission may have low fluid level and/or may have either a shift concern and/or an engagement concern. This may be caused by transmission fluid leaking from the transmission into the transfer case through the transfer case input seal. Replace the transfer case input seal..." read more
by Ford via thedieselstop.com

I pulled it out today to replace tranny. The front pump seal has been pushed nearly all the way out and is sideways not sitting square in its bore. I know for a fact a few months ago when i put a motor in the bko I put a new seal in squared and flush to the bottom of the bore. So ??? but new problem the new-ish (used) e4od i got has 12 pins on the valve body connector and the one I pulled today only has 9??? does any one have a diagram for the original 91 e4od to tell me what I need to be testing for or how I should be rewiring my connector? I am not a complete Idiot but dont like trannys with electronics(bad luck) and want to be super sure I dont screw anything up. I am going to buy a filter kit for the new-ish one in the A.M. so I will have the pan off to verify the wiring of the plug to the solenoids but dont want to open the other pan now(a little bit of the lazy and a little bit of the lack of anything to drain the fluid into) also this is a heavy mo-fo when you are by your self with no tranny jack.
See less See more
3
Identifying the E4OD/4R100 Solenoids - Page 1
Solenoid Identification; "...There are three OEM style solenoids for the E4OD/4R100 as shown in the picture to the right. Additionally, Transtar offers two additional solenoids which add a LOCK-UP DELAY to the OEM model; 89-94 36420R 36420AR First design plug; 95-98 36420BR 36420CR Second design plug..."
Source: by transtarindustries.com


READ MORE...

=====================
Solenoid Pack info & pics in 94-96 vs earlier years; "these are the S-packs(soleniod packs) the blue is the newer 94+ upgraded pack the other is the old style pack "
Source: by yoomooman (eddy) at SuperMotors.net these are the S-packs(soleniod packs)

the blue is the newer 94+ upgraded pack

the other is the old style pack

======
Connector;

E4OD 1989-94
by autotransinc.com via web.archive.org
=======
"...Be careful with the different connectors. The early E4OD solenoid packs had diodes in built into the pack to prevent the voltage spike for the collapsing magnetic field of the solenoid from cooking the computer. In the later (I can't remeber which year, I think 94?) Ford removed the diodes from the solenoid pack in the trans and added protection in the computer. If you end up with a late solenoid pack and an early computer you will likely be buying a new computer. Going from memory which is a couple years old now, the early solenoid packs had a redish orange seal in the electrical connector on the transmission side, the later solenoid packs without diodes have a green seal which goes into the vehicle side harness. I the plugs don't easily plug in wrong, but if you really try you can..."
by heeke
See less See more
I have to roll; someone else will prob post the test and conn. pin-outs for you.
Ok i pulled both pans today. the original had the old style s-pack and the new one had the newer style blue one they both had the same ford part numbers and they both had the diodes for the pwm flyback circuit built in and the 3 extra pins were unpopulated on the under side of the s-pack, so Idecided to leave well enough alone. I got everything hooked up, all bolts back in, shifter linkage adjusted to new tranny. everything seems ok but I will find out tommorow after i buy 2 gals. of atf. Oh yeah I put in a filter and pan gasket in and a new seal again. I dont know how true it is but I read in a post today ford had a tsb on the front pump seal being pushed out by fluid pressure and supposedly their fix is to use blue loctite and a new seal so I figured I would try it we will find out. I guess the worst I see happening is I have to pull it again and put a new seal in as long as if it starts to leak I QUIT driving it.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top