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1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Greetings ya'll!

I plan to buy a Bronco from the last generation during the following year.
Don't mind if it means fixing a lot with it to get it into shape.

Unfortunately my wallet isn't that big enough...

I've understood that it's similar to the F150 but can I for example also take parts from significantly cheaper cars like the Explorer?

Super Moderator
23,400 Posts
Yo Brizzom,
Welcome to our Big Bronco community!
From an 96 Explorer you can use the 5.0 engine, however without more time to confirm, the automatic E4OD transmission wasn't use in the Explorer in 92-96 time period, nor the Borg Warner 1356 manual shifted or Shift-on-the-fly push button transfer cases.
I believe the 8.8 rear differential was used in Explorers.
Front bucket seats have bean swapped into Big Broncos by our members.

Others here can provide more information. So, I'll move this thread to the Noobie Section @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/

We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it; meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & lube, all filters changed, etc, using Ford's severe duty schedule.
One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had since the 78.
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

For 93-96, ask seller if cruise control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership? Call dealer & have VIN ready to confirm or check status @ https://www.safercar.gov
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/457065-93-94-96-cruise-control-recalls-repair.html#post6530073
Note that 93 recall is different than the 94-96.

Check Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for Model Year & Engine Type (for example; 5.0, 5.8, 4.9 or 351W CID 5.8 4 BBL Carb, etc.).
VIN Decoder; for 81-86 & 87-96 Bronco & Ford Truck @ Truck Parts and Truck Accessories

Our Navy Federal Credit Union suggests using https://www.nadaguides.com for finding the "value" of a vehicle.

Order a CarFax. Although not all accident info May not be provided, other important info is provided @ https://www.carfax.com

VINCheck® by National Insurance Crime Bureau is a free service provided to the public to assist in determining if a"... vehicle has been reported as stolen, but not recovered, or has been reported as a salvage vehicle by cooperating NICB member insurance companies. To perform a search, a vehicle identification number (VIN) is required. A maximum of five searches can be conducted within a 24-hour period per IP address." @ https://www.nicb.org/vincheck

While you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.
Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you. ASE is National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, read about it @ https://www.ase.com/About-ASE.aspx.
Find an ASE shop @ https://www.ase.com/Landing-Pages/Car-Owners/Find-a-Repair-Shop/Shop-Locator.aspx
Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
Engine Oil level: If the oil level is low, chances are the engine uses oil or leaks. Beware of water in the oil (there is probably a cracked block or bad head gasket), or thin, dirty oil with a distinct gasoline smell (this may indicate internal engine problems).
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
- try opening and closing tailgate and moving glass
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing.
Pull the transmission dipstick out when the engine is running at normal operating temp. The level should read FULL.
For E4OD, look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Dark brown or black fluid that has distinct burnt odor, indicates a transmission in need of repair or overhaul.
Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.

- The M5OD is a top shift, fully synchronized, five-speed manual transmission, equipped with an overdrive fifth gear ratio is in 88-96 Broncos. All gear changes including reverse are accomplished with synchronizer sleeves.
"M5OD Preventative Measure; Those of you who own Ford full size or small size trucks with the M5OD Mazda design 5 speed manual transmission should have the rubber shift cover plugs resealed at your earliest possible convenience. A common occurrence with this model transmission is the rubber plugs shrinking over time and allowing lube oil to leak out of the transmission. This occurs while the vehicle is in operation, so there is less of a tendency for a puddle to develop when the vehicle is sitting parked. The result to the transmission is a lack of lubrication and damage to some very expensive gears and bearings." by DRW Transmission Specialties, Inc
- engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.
- rust in radiator core support, bottom of B pillars and rocker panels, tailgate, and rear fender lips due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) that lets moisture & debris in the seam. A Bronco may need extensive $ patch or full panel replacements ⚠.
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96, aka speedometer/odometer), make sure it works; look for a slight waver in the needle at highway speeds.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- cab roof/gutter area cracks, mostly appl. to earlier years, but check anyway
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mount deterioration and frame rust
- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Also Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Same for:
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL), it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Is it flashing while driving?

For pre 96 with EFI do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe
or have such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

For a 96 get a free code scan @ some Parts Stores if you don't diy with a scanner.

1987 - 1992 was the years the rear anti-lock brakes (RABS) were standardized on Broncos; "...Rear-wheel ABS is another type of ABS available on some light trucks. It operates only the rear wheels, especially important with light trucks, which often carry heavy loads supported primarily by the rear suspension and wheels. The RABS module monitor the electromechanical components of the systems. Malfunction of the system will cause the Anti-lock brake electronic control module to shut off or inhibit the system. However, normal power assisted braking remains. Malfunctions are indicated by the amber ABS warning light inside the vehicle.

The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) in 93-96 is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service.
Our module blew it's microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

Suggest you buy the official FORD Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) on DVD.. be sure your pc, etc will be able to read the DVD, or buy a paper version. Check rockauto.com

Cash is King!!!
"Cashier’s checks can be forged, money orders can be forged, and personal/business checks can be forged. Cash can also be, but it’s harder to make believable and easier to test. Take a powerful magnet with you. Yes a magnet. You see, on top of ID strips and watermarks, the ink the federal reserve uses has iron in it, therefore it will be attracted to a powerful magnet.
"by Froggmann @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/41-broncos-sale-75-posts-required-post/125049-8-steps-protect-yourself-when-selling-vehicle.html
Banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. ..
As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.
Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.
Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.

Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations..
Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".
Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).

A summary of questions to ask the seller;
"* Do you have the maintenance records?
* Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
* How do I get the title?
* Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
* How much tread is left on the tires?
* Are there any scratches or dents on the vehicle?
* Did this car belong to a smoker?
* Was this car used by pet owners?
* Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as on 1/4 panels, tailgate, etc)?
* Are there any document or preparation fees?"
* Courtesy of ebay

Post pics here,or in Noobie Section.
How to Post Pics @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/19-suggestions-feedback-site-help/6204-how-post-pictures.html


156 Posts
For an overall daily driver, I'm a fan of the last gen like you are looking for
The 96 (the last year made) is a bit preferable in that it has OBDII computer controls like all new cars still have
When things go wrong it will display a code and help find the problem
The 94 & 95 (Im pretty sure on dates) had this primitive OBDI system that was OK, better than nothing though
Also, consider an airbag which was avail on these
And ABS brakes which were also on 94 - 96

Awesome trucks, easy to work on, etc
Achillies heel is rot and corrosion
The E4OD automatic transmission is so-so, you should get 130k miles out of it

103 Posts
Just be picky shopper. Find one that might need some mechanical work. Most parts are very cheap. Buy one that has good tires even if you have to pay a little more. Tires are expensive.

657 Posts
Greetings ya'll!

I plan to buy a Bronco from the last generation during the following year.
Don't mind if it means fixing a lot with it to get it into shape.

Unfortunately my wallet isn't that big enough...

I've understood that it's similar to the F150 but can I for example also take parts from significantly cheaper cars like the Explorer?
How much are Bronco's going for in Sweden?

316 Posts
Driveline parts for the 5th gen broncos are very affordable. And repair parts are in stock in most of the auto parts stores around the country. Some of the electrical parts are starting to be hard to find like the tailgate window motor. 96 had all of the best that Ford had to offer. ODB2, MAF, 4-hole injectors and all of the E4OD updates. I've got over 238K on my trans and still working great. Same for the engine.

151 Posts
For a daily driver only a 96. OBDII is invaluable when something goes wrong, CEL codes and live data streams speeds up the diagnostic process making your wallet happy as well as your mechanic. The sooner they can figure out what's wrong the sooner you'll be back on the road.

For a project car then the sky is the limit. Each generation of bronco comes with their own pros and cons.

361 Posts
Contrary to some of the opinions expressed here, I had a bull nose '83 which I thought looked great and I've got an aero nose '95 now. I think the brick nose design is the poorest of the three different sets of front sheet metal that Ford used on the Bronco. I looked for a '92-'96 when I decided on owning another Bronco because they had a six digit electronic odometer. With the five digit mechanical units, they record up to 99,999 miles and then roll over to 00,000. Hard to tell how many miles the vehicle actually has on it. Has it rolled once or twice or three times or is it actually a low mile survivor?
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