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1992 Bronco XLT 5.8L V8
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, my bronco runs great when in park and neutral but when I put it into drive the battery lowers a lot. Once I give it gas it charges back up, if I pull to a stop light the battery goes back down. Any ideas?

I have a 5.8L V8 EFI
 

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1996 EB 5.8L, E4OD, 2.5" RC Lift, 33" tires, 3.55 gears
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104 Posts
I had a similar issue that was resolved by upgrading to a 130 amp alternator. Your charging drops off when idling in drive because your RPMs drop off when truck is in gear versus in park/neutral. If your truck starts up fine and there is no sign your alternator is not adequately charging your battery, there is likely nothing wrong with your current alternator. Have you checked its output with a voltmeter?
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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6,805 Posts
In addition to the above, which is a great start, I usallly also change out the charge cable from alternator to battery. And add additional grounds (i use 1/0 or 4 ga but usually also doing amplifier install as well) from battery: to frame, to engine, to body. This is most commonly called the "Big 3" wiring upgrade.
 

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14,908 Posts
In addition to the above, which is a great start, I usallly also change out the charge cable from alternator to battery. And add additional grounds (i use 1/0 or 4 ga but usually also doing amplifier install as well) from battery: to frame, to engine, to body. This is most commonly called the "Big 3" wiring upgrade.
This and check all of your battery cables, particularly the grounds to signs of corrosion. Replace as needed.
 

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1992 Bronco XLT 5.8L V8
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
This and check all of your battery cables, particularly the grounds to signs of corrosion. Replace as needed.
But the thing I’m curious about is my alternator is brand new, I just got this one maybe last week. My truck has been through 4 already since I’ve owned it. Thank goodness for the warranty. Today I’ll check the Barry cables and all that.
 

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Brand new alternator won't matter if your battery cables are crap..corrosion, especially if you have the old factory cables is common on these rigs.
 

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The factory 2G alternator is well known to have very little output at idle/low RPM. It's a design flaw. It's also known to be a fire hazard. Get rid of it. Upgrade to a 130amp 3G before you regret it.
 

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But the thing I’m curious about is my alternator is brand new, I just got this one maybe last week. My truck has been through 4 already since I’ve owned it. Thank goodness for the warranty. Today I’ll check the Barry cables and all that.
Doesn't mean jack shit. The parts market is flooded with shit teir aftermarket parts which can easily be DOA or faulty, especially if it's a reman. If you have a 2G upgrade to a 3G. Its easy and the 2Gs not only suck but are known to be a fire hazard.
 

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Best option as suggested is to upgrade to the 3G. I will finally be getting mine done while my Bronco is still down for repairs. Unfortunately, even with the 80 amp, it still isn't enough power to run everything properly at idle (I have been running a 60 amp, which costs more... since Autozone failed to ever get another 80 in stock after 3 defective units in less than a year and to have seen inside the last one I took in you would know why they fail...reman means crap to them).
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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6,805 Posts
There are lots of places to get alternators.
I have had good luck with the ones that left eye blind sells.
 
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