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Erik
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1,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I did something this morning. Drove an hour south with my trailer and purchased my second bronco. Finally starting on the next one of a few. :thumbup I was going to wait and buy a cleaner one and I still may for a different build later but the price was too good to pass up.



It's a 1992 xlt with the 351 and auto transmission. Interior isn't bad, just a few bad dash spots, bad seats, and sagging headliner. But it doesn't run and hasn't for a few months. Also its got some rusty body areas but the frame is clean and it came with a bunch of new parts. Plus it was $500 and thats why I bought this one now rather than a nice one later.


It needs some work but thats fine. Going to fix the rust. He also included new door sill pieces from bronco graveyard since their rusted.

I know its a little rough around the edges but over time I will redo everything on it. The full frame off treatment. But for now I'm going to fix/replace the battery cables and engine compartment electrical. From there I'll see if I can get it running. The kid I bought it from hasn't had it running in a while and left the drivers side window down. As soon as I got it back to my buddies farm I connected the sketchy battery cables and rolled up the window. Tried to start it but just got a click at the starter. Gonna start by replacing all the battery cables and cleaning it up. Thinking the starter can't be getting enough juice with how bad the electrical looks. This will be a slow but fun one to stay mostly stock unlike my other one. :toothless
 

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Erik
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1,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
So it’s finally time to start this slow project. Getting more trucks and a house slows things down.. But I’m hoping to get a lot of this bronco done over the winter.
First was getting it started. I don’t want to use this drivetrain but wanted to get it started to make sure the electrical was fine. This was a while ago, but I built new battery cables and threw in a new starter. After I put in a better battery it fired right up. Ran good but wouldn’t move, there’s definitely something wrong with the transmission.




I’ve been slowly accumulating some of the parts for this one. Found a mint front bronco bench from a 96. Also some Chevy 8 lug outers. Need pics of that stuff. Stock front seats and console are for sale.

I need to grab a pic of the bare metal floor. Very clean compared to my 89, with only surface rust. Rear carpet is salvageable but I threw out the front.

I have a parts truck that I’ve been cutting up. Using this sterling and Dana 50 parts in the bronco.

Also I’m putting the fuel injected 460 and trans into this bronco from another parts truck. The plan is a stock fuel injected 460. Even gonna keep emissions on this one probably. The 460 was originally for the big bronco but it’s staying 302 powered for now.
Starting a fresh scrap pile after I cut the exhaust out of the bronco.

The rustiest areas on the bronco are the rear fenders and rockers. I have new rockers and better front fenders. But while moving around a bunch of non running fords in the driveway I hooked this fender with the new parts truck. A little worse now.

I was going to do everything myself but the bodywork, but now am thinking about fiberglass fenders for the rear for multiple reasons. I saw desolate is about to start selling stock bulge rear fiberglass fenders and that fits my plans well.
For a $500 bronco with body rust the frame really surprises me. Almost no rust.

I’m wondering if the mud and fluids helped protect things underneath. This bronco currently leaks every fluid..

But within the next few weeks I should have the 351 and e4od out and for sale. The plan for this build is 460, the axles mentioned, leveling kit, 35s, etc. I don’t want this one to be huge but I can’t leave anything stock.
 

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Erik
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1,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Had only a few minutes before the rain so I started taking stuff out of the front end.


Planning on doing a lot of the dirty stuff outside. Turning my garage into a makeshift paint booth and doing reassembly in there.
Here’s the mint front bench. I’ll be recovering both benches to black. The cushions aren’t even broken in.

The reason a bronco front bench is different from a truck bench is the way it tilts. (Not sure about extended cab trucks)
But the bronco bench folds at an angle, making it easier to get into the back.

Have stuff to do to the plow truck but I’ll have more updates soon.
 

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20 Posts
You did good on the price! Sounds exactly like what I’m in the market for. Keep building and progressing. 👍🏻👍🏻
 

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Erik
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1,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
So I had a few hours. Pulled everything off of the engine, trans, and transfer case. Right at dark I hooked up the chains. Just need to lift it out at this point.

So the previous owner had these 2 trans coolers and a temp gauge. Probably had overheating issues at some point. Explains why it made bad noises when trying to engage gears.


And here is the rusty sterling I pulled from one of the parts trucks (both 4.10’s). I’ll rebuild it in the garage at some point.

If I don’t pull the drivetrain tomorrow it’ll probably be a few days.
 

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Erik
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1,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #13

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Erik
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1,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Today I gutted a lot of the interior, among other things.
Parts truck slowly losing parts...

Ever since I bought this bronco I haven’t gone through the pile of stuff behind the back seat. The only thing I knew was back there were new rocker panels from bronco graveyard still in the box. Besides that, some clothes, brand new drinking glasses, fishing gear, new rotors and drums (that I can’t use), etc. Also found this cool wooden engraved ravens clock. Just need to replace the clock portion.

Found this tucked in an interior panel. Anyone know what this is?

Besides the obvious new gas tank they also cut in a fuel pump access panel at some point. Very thin, bent aluminum with holes worn in it. I’ll probably cut out some of the parts truck bed to fix it..

Some interior patching to do.
Both rear corners rusted through..


Some more holes..

Both fenders..


I figured I’d find some rust holes.
 

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ate lug
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8,478 Posts
Lots of the same rust my 96 had.

I have that exact same tan bench in my 96. Super comfy. What are you going to do with the seat covers when you reupholster it? I wouldnt mind having it for mine as a spare, i plan on staying tan in this one.

Found this tucked in an interior panel. Anyone know what this is?


RABS module. So, trash :toothless
 

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Erik
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1,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Lots of the same rust my 96 had.

I have that exact same tan bench in my 96. Super comfy. What are you going to do with the seat covers when you reupholster it? I wouldnt mind having it for mine as a spare, i plan on staying tan in this one.





RABS module. So, trash :toothless
I’ll let you know when I may get rid of the seat cover. My plan is to turn the interior black as I put it back together.
Yea, abs is a joke.
 

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Erik
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1,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Managed to rip apart more of the parts truck for a bit.
It’s a bear to get these rusty motor mounts unbolted. I ended up cutting some off of the engine crossmember to make room for my impact socket. Never realized 460s have 2 bolts holding the motor mount to the frame portion of the mount (as opposed to 302s and 351s with 1).
I also got the transfer case out of the parts truck.

Never had my hands on a bw1756 before. It dwarfs the 1356 but is still not as heavy as an np205 of course.

Even has a pto.

So to get to the point.. My original plan was to use the stock bw1356 with electric shifter. I normally prefer manual shift but it may be nice to keep the floor space open. Will the 1356 last fine behind a stock 460? This 1756 would be a cool option if I can find a fixed yoke for it. My 1356 is in the best shape. I also have a bw4407 and 2 more np205s (but the np205s are reserved for other trucks). Will the 1356 be fine or should I rebuild the 4407?
 

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ate lug
Joined
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8,478 Posts
Never realized 460s have 2 bolts holding the motor mount to the frame portion of the mount (as opposed to 302s and 351s with 1).
Yup, thats why theyre so much better than any conversion mount you can buy.
So to get to the point.. My original plan was to use the stock bw1356 with electric shifter. I normally prefer manual shift but it may be nice to keep the floor space open. Will the 1356 last fine behind a stock 460? This 1756 would be a cool option if I can find a fixed yoke for it. My 1356 is in the best shape. I also have a bw4407 and 2 more np205s (but the np205s are reserved for other trucks). Will the 1356 be fine or should I rebuild the 4407?
As far as i know, the only difference between a 1356 & 1756 is the PTO. Most likely You could use parts from your 1356 to convert it to fixed yoke. You shouldnt have any problem with it, after all, Ford did offer it behind the 7.5. It was also found behind the 7.3 for a little while too. That said, the 4407 is pure beef, plain and simple. Bigger planetary, wider chain; its a beast, as you can probably see. If you dont want it, its worth $$$ to the diesel crowd, pretty much anyone with a souped up 7.3 (that still has a 1356) will want it. I havent heard of anyone breaking one of those.
 

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Erik
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1,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Slow progress since I was sick last week but I managed to pull the 460 and trans from the parts truck today.
This was slightly sketchy but I was lazy and working by myself ( that thing is heavy).


Easiest way to move a broken truck when you can’t pull it? Snow plow..

Removing the stock bronco motor mounts..
Passenger side was easy.

But on the drivers side ford decided to mix in some rivets with the bolts. Out came the air chisel..

Next is to get the mounts out of the parts truck. Not looking forward to air chiseling under that rusty truck.
Also, hopefully I’ll have time to fix the big bronco in the next week or 2. I’ll bump that thread when it happens.
 
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