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Discussion Starter #1
Well...here I go again...I've been working on this for what seems like forever. My 92 with a 351 and E4Od won't start. My son had driven it home and everything was great. The next morning it refused to start. Would crank over (plenty of battery) but wouldn't start. So I figured it was a fuel problem. I replaced the fuel pump, and have checked the Schraeder valve, which produces fuel when the key is turned on (although it doesn't shoot out with significant pressure). Only thing I haven't tried is the fuel pressure (just another piece to buy). I replaced the cap and rotor (which now fits much looser than it ever did). So, I thought it might be an ECM problem, which are what most of my posts have been.

Instead of buying the ECM and installing it, I took someone's advice of putting in a new fuel pump relay from O'Reilly's...as far as I can tell using the Haines, it is either relay 1 or 2 in the relay box...either way, I replaced both 1 and 2...still having the same problem of not starting...:banghead I'm starting to get quite a complex with this whole thing. Is there anyone who might have an answer that I've not tried or considered???!!!???

HELP!!!??? Thanks
 

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Well, first off, start with diagnosing and not throwing money away with expensive parts (like fuel pumps, and EECs).

#1, take off that Jet chip. They're near worthless and provide so little performance gain it's most definitely not worth the money. They can also cause problems, so put it back to stock.

#2, check fuel pressure. That'd be the first thing to do when diagnosing fuel delivery... Not replacing a fuel pump.

#3, Do you have spark?

#4, Have you pulled codes yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I tried to locate the fuel pump relay and the ecm relay in the haines manual but could only find the chassis wiring, from which I couldn't locate the black box that contains the four relays and larger fuses...am I correct in thinking the fuel pump relay is 1 or 2 in the box? does anyone know for sure which is the fuel pump relay and which is the ecm relay?
 

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Kitteh Commandaar!
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Well, first off, start with diagnosing and not throwing money away with expensive parts (like fuel pumps, and EECs).



#2, check fuel pressure. That'd be the first thing to do when diagnosing fuel delivery... Not replacing a fuel pump.

#3, Do you have spark?

#4, Have you pulled codes yet?
:stupid
What he said...:twak
 

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I tried to locate the fuel pump relay and the ecm relay in the haines manual but could only find the chassis wiring, from which I couldn't locate the black box that contains the four relays and larger fuses...am I correct in thinking the fuel pump relay is 1 or 2 in the box? does anyone know for sure which is the fuel pump relay and which is the ecm relay?

should be in the owners many
 

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:stupid
What he said...:twak
:twak

You removed #1.

Those chips cause more problems then people realize. When trying to fix a problem, definitely pull the chip, and if the problem goes away, you'll see how worthless they are.
 

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if you have fuel, your starter is cranking, and you rbattery seems good then i would definetly be checking for spark first thing.
 

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if you have fuel, your starter is cranking, and you rbattery seems good then i would definetly be checking for spark first thing.
Yeah I would hate for it to be something simple like plugs or wires. Maybe the ignition coil? Check for moisture also.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The ignition coil checks out as I had it tested...I now have a code reader and will see if there are any codes for Key Off...I realize I'm supposed to also pull codes wihile the truck is running but I can't get the damn thing running...as I said previously, I checked the schraeder valve for fuel while the engine was off and key was on, and only got a little bit (but nothing of any pressure)...I'll keep trying
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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This isn't going in a good direction....

Okay, first thing that caught my attention: your fuel pressure testing method. STOP. That's not how you test for fuel pressure. You need a test gauge for that. There's no way to tell without a gauge whether it's making 10 or 40 psig. There's a significant difference between the two, because only one will allow the engine to run. ;) Can you hear the fuel pump running?

First things first though. You need to ascertain there is adequate ignition (spark) at the spark plugs. Absolutely nothing will happen without ignition, so this is where you need to concentrate your efforts instead of throwing parts at it. There is an entire procedure laid out in the Haynes service manual for a no-spark/no-start condition, and that's where you need to flip to. If you don't already have one, a good volt/ohm meter (VOM) would be good to have for that. Follow the manual, but I like to start at the spark plugs and work my way back, i.e. spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor, coil, ignition module, PIP, then harness connectors & wiring.

When you're pulling codes, you don't need to have it running. Just find the EEC TEST connector, plug it into the tester, and turn the ignition key to the ON position. The PCM should begin spitting out codes through the code reader in the form of beeps and/or flashes, and you need to be ready with pen & paper to write 'em down. :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, SiqEpBlue...I haven't had a chance to do anything on the truck this weekend except to hook up the code reader...when the key is turned off and the reader is plugged in and turned to test, I get a continuous tone and steady light...when the key is turned on, the reader is silent and no light; so I waited for upwards of several minutes and there were no blinks and no blips...so I'm even more confused as I didn't see anything in the Haynes to show about not reading any codes...as soon as I have an opportunity I 'll check back from the plugs...
 
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