It's a Kicker. It can be used as a step but the purpose is to kick the ass end away from trees and rocks there by protecting the rear quarter panel. I'm going to add a removable step before I paint.
92 Stroker Frame Off Restomod
Edit 2023
I thought I would add what components this rig has at the beginning for easy reference.
97 351w roller block bored, stroked, decked and balanced.
Eagle 408 stroker kit
Keith Black pistons
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshaft 35-351-8
AFR 185 heads
Edelbrock 3881 intake
BBK 61mm throttle body
High volume oil pump
Crane cams 1.7 Cobra roller rockers
BBK fuel rails and regulator
Bosch 42lb injectors
Bassani shorty headers and full exhaust
10.5-1 compression
Sagnaw power steering pump with 4 bolt steering box
TRE flip
D50 stub
ARB lockers
4.56 Yukon gears
Threat motorsports 4 inch cut and turned lift
HD TTB beam mounts
HD spring buckets with XL Bilstein shocks
Rear Deaver springs with rear shock relocation kit
Sanden 508 OBA with 4 Gal tank
Denny's HD 1330 rear drive Shaft
Rear disk brake conversion
Nodular 9 inch rear with pinion protection
6R80 conversion
Champion radiator with dual Spal fans
Pulse modulated fan controller
HD Derale stand alone trans cooler
F-350 booster&MC
Raptor Liner over epoxy primer
Modified Rock Solid rear bumper with rear quarter protection
Wild Horse/JB front winch bumper
New Vintage USA guages
Glow shift dual AFR guage
Pimpx/mega squirt ECU
MSD dual sync distributor
MSD 6AL ignition
Custom roll cage
Procar seats
Raceline Raptor 17*9 wheels
Dick Cepek Extreme Country tires
UMP AIR BOX
WARN 9000I WINCH with warn Spydura line
Polk Audio DB 6502 Front speakers
Sony XAV-AX4000 double din
Rockford Fosgate T1693 rear speakers
Sound Ordnance™ M75-4 amp
I think I am ready to start a build thread. I expect this to go slow. I have been gathering parts over the past months. I have also read a lot of info on here. I am starting with a bone stock 200k mile truck. No rust it's from Arizona. I picked up a 2011 6r80 and transfer case from a F150. I grabbed a 351 roller from the LJY out of a 97 250. It only has 76k. I am going to strip the block and have it machined for the 408 internals. I just scored some low mileage AFR 185s, BBK fuel rail, regulator and a Ron Francis mass air wiring conversion. I plan on running a Mega Squirt sequential fuel injection. I am sourcing the 408 internals currently. Nothing crazy I want TQ from idle to 5500. My brother is an engine builder so I gave him my requirements and he is selecting the cam and internals. I'll share when it's purchased. I am going to try to use the 2011 transfer case but need a slip yoke eliminator. I was thinking getting machine shop to drill and tap the output shaft and bolting the 2011 drive salt yoke to the output shaft then adapting that to the current driveshaft. Open for suggestions on this. I have also got a 9 inch from a 80's f150 that I plan to use for some extra strength.
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I thought I would add what components this rig has at the beginning for easy reference.
97 351w roller block bored, stroked, decked and balanced.
Eagle 408 stroker kit
Keith Black pistons
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshaft 35-351-8
AFR 185 heads
Edelbrock 3881 intake
BBK 61mm throttle body
High volume oil pump
Crane cams 1.7 Cobra roller rockers
BBK fuel rails and regulator
Bosch 42lb injectors
Bassani shorty headers and full exhaust
10.5-1 compression
Sagnaw power steering pump with 4 bolt steering box
TRE flip
D50 stub
ARB lockers
4.56 Yukon gears
Threat motorsports 4 inch cut and turned lift
HD TTB beam mounts
HD spring buckets with XL Bilstein shocks
Rear Deaver springs with rear shock relocation kit
Sanden 508 OBA with 4 Gal tank
Denny's HD 1330 rear drive Shaft
Rear disk brake conversion
Nodular 9 inch rear with pinion protection
6R80 conversion
Champion radiator with dual Spal fans
Pulse modulated fan controller
HD Derale stand alone trans cooler
F-350 booster&MC
Raptor Liner over epoxy primer
Modified Rock Solid rear bumper with rear quarter protection
Wild Horse/JB front winch bumper
New Vintage USA guages
Glow shift dual AFR guage
Pimpx/mega squirt ECU
MSD dual sync distributor
MSD 6AL ignition
Custom roll cage
Procar seats
Raceline Raptor 17*9 wheels
Dick Cepek Extreme Country tires
UMP AIR BOX
WARN 9000I WINCH with warn Spydura line
Polk Audio DB 6502 Front speakers
Sony XAV-AX4000 double din
Rockford Fosgate T1693 rear speakers
Sound Ordnance™ M75-4 amp
I think I am ready to start a build thread. I expect this to go slow. I have been gathering parts over the past months. I have also read a lot of info on here. I am starting with a bone stock 200k mile truck. No rust it's from Arizona. I picked up a 2011 6r80 and transfer case from a F150. I grabbed a 351 roller from the LJY out of a 97 250. It only has 76k. I am going to strip the block and have it machined for the 408 internals. I just scored some low mileage AFR 185s, BBK fuel rail, regulator and a Ron Francis mass air wiring conversion. I plan on running a Mega Squirt sequential fuel injection. I am sourcing the 408 internals currently. Nothing crazy I want TQ from idle to 5500. My brother is an engine builder so I gave him my requirements and he is selecting the cam and internals. I'll share when it's purchased. I am going to try to use the 2011 transfer case but need a slip yoke eliminator. I was thinking getting machine shop to drill and tap the output shaft and bolting the 2011 drive salt yoke to the output shaft then adapting that to the current driveshaft. Open for suggestions on this. I have also got a 9 inch from a 80's f150 that I plan to use for some extra strength.
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661 - 680 of 689 Posts
This makes me feel better. I think I got the last set. I was super nervous about it but these look absolutely fantastic. I'm having mine powder coated. I'm trying to figure out how to make them not so slippery when I powder coat them. I'm think some 3m walk tape.Driver's side bolted up. Here is pics from every angle. I had to remove the bracket for the brake cables from the frame. I could have trimed it but I want something cleaner looking.I I'm going to need to find a different(adjustable) intermediate brake cable I think. I may just go with the Lokar set up. Jury is still out. The disk brakes I used require the ebrake be actuated occasionally as they adjust the brakes. Overall I am very please with my purchase.
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I'm POR15ing mine so they are easier to touch up. I was thinking about sprinkling some sand in the foot use area. I was also thinking about maybe putting a little Raptor Liner patch there. Maybe a rubber something 🤔This makes me feel better. I think I got the last set. I was super nervous about it but these look absolutely fantastic. I'm having mine powder coated. I'm trying to figure out how to make them not so slippery when I powder coat them. I'm think some 3m walk tape.
That’s a good idea. I have some Eastwood chassis paint that would be better to use and wayyyyyy cheaper. It’ll be easier to touch up. I figured the raptor liner would be slick!?I'm POR15ing mine so they are easier to touch up. I was thinking about sprinkling some sand in the foot use area. I was also thinking about maybe putting a little Raptor Liner patch there. Maybe a rubber something 🤔
Raptor would be harder to touch up bit not slick if sprayed at a higher pressure. It makes it like sandpaper. I have degreased and metal etched mine. All the 32 holes are drilled. My daughter has conference championship tomorrow thru Saturday so I won't get them painted until next week. Regionals, Super Regionals and World Series hopefully will follow. So may be the end of June I will have them mounted.That’s a good idea. I have some Eastwood chassis paint that would be better to use and wayyyyyy cheaper. It’ll be easier to touch up. I figured the raptor liner would be slick!?
@BigBlue 94 any experience or input on how to paint these durable with a texture that will be nonslip? I think this is your area of expertise lol.Raptor would be harder to touch up bit not slick if sprayed at a higher pressure. It makes it like sandpaper. I have degreased and metal etched mine. All the 32 holes are drilled. My daughter has conference championship tomorrow thru Saturday so I won't get them painted until next week. Regionals, Super Regionals and World Series hopefully will follow. So may be the end of June I will have them mounted.
Powder is the worst for bumpers and sliders imho. Sliders especially because they will be taking a lot of abuse. PC loves to peel once chipped or scratched through the entire mil thickness of the coating.@BigBlue 94 any experience or input on how to paint these durable with a texture that will be nonslip? I think this is your area of expertise lol.
I prefer a rubberized bedliner product with texture which makes touchup a breeze.
Depending on the bedliner product used, you can create different textures by varying spray distance, coat thickness, and air pressure (if using an actual sprayer). Light coats from far away are gonna create a real fine but grainy finish, perfect for grip. Heavy coats up close will produce no texture, and possibly runs.
Wrinkle finishes will look nice and give texture, but touchup is tough.
Shiney coatings are hard to touch up and show every imperfection. Flat paints touch up nice and hide imperfections. But they also dont last as long and get dirty and stained easier.
I like master series primer to keep it from rusting and then top coat with whatever. The master is ridiculously hard and will not chip easily. The only thing I don't like about it is it can sometimes be tough to top coat - you have to either top it quickly or heavily scuff it to let the top get a bite. Magnet Paints' Monstaliner is a tough top coat IMO. I have it all over the interior and exterior of my FSB (in most places on top of master)
After trying to sand the frame where the E Brake cable mount was removed, I have determined POR 15 is as tough as needed for this application. It just needs a topcoat to keep it from fading.
Degreased, metal etched, 2 coats of POR15 and 3 coats of POR15 topcoat. I'll let them dry good and install as soon as I get time. Salisbury won their Regional and have supers Friday and Saturday. If or should I say when they win we leave for the world series in Texas on Wednesday. Hard to squeeze in time right now.
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They look good. Why por15? If it gets knicked it’s pretty known for flaking.Degreased, metal etched, 2 coats of POR15 and 3 coats of POR15 topcoat. I'll let them dry good and install as soon as I get time. Salisbury won their Regional and have supers Friday and Saturday. If or should I say when they win we leave for the world series in Texas on Wednesday. Hard to squeeze in time right now.
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It doesn't flake unless applied wrong. That stuff is tough. My frame, suspension, under and inner body are all coated in it.They look good. Why por15? If it gets knicked it’s pretty known for flaking.
Gotcha. Well they look good. I’m painting mine with bed liner. I got them to the shop last week. I haven’t seen them in person but the pics look great.It doesn't flake unless applied wrong. That stuff is tough. My frame, suspension, under and inner body are all coated in it.
Thanks. I considered doing them in Raptor. Having to mix a small batch of fairly expensive Raptor, whose shelf life is a year, according to UPOL, seemed a pain when it comes to touch ups, not to mention the 5 day cant get wet deal. Man that's a sentence, probably grammatically incorrect. I'm going to try to get them on tonight.Gotcha. Well they look good. I’m painting mine with bed liner. I got them to the shop last week. I haven’t seen them in person but the pics look great.
No it's not, been on my EXO cage for close to 20 years. It only flakes if you paint POR over the old POR with zero prepThey look good. Why por15? If it gets knicked it’s pretty known for flaking.
(even then it holds up for a while , even if POR'd over dirt). I do touch up often with no prep,
since it is an EXO and gets "knicked" all the time.
I painted a bare piece of sheet metal that had a light coat of rust with no prep. It was the patch for the hole I put in the cowl to seam seal the area around the ECU. It flaked as you described. You have to metal etch or use an etching primer. I have determined the chemical metal etch is better because of the protective zinc coating it leaves behind. Here is what the bed looked like after sandblasting and then metal prep.It doesn't flake unless applied wrong. That stuff is tough. My frame, suspension, under and inner body are all coated in it.
@BigBlue 94 I hope you have strong shoulders and sharp drill bits. 38 1/2" holes to install sliders. I couldn't find my cheater handIe for my Dwalt. I started with 1/8" pilot and used 7 increasingly larger bits to get to the 1/2". My wrists thanked me. Am assuming you are installing these on @Burntoutaccountant 's Steed.
I’m actually having the shop do them. He is already doing a lot for me. I don’t think anymore could be packed in by 6/5. They’ll do it when they do my motor and transmission swap.@BigBlue 94 I hope you have strong shoulders and sharp drill bits. 38 1/2" holes to install sliders. I couldn't find my cheater handIe for my Dwalt. I started with 1/8" pilot and used 7 increasingly larger bits to get to the 1/2". My wrists thanked me. Am assuming you are installing these on @Burntoutaccountant 's Steed.
Yikes. That sounds terrible. I would have welded them puppies on.@BigBlue 94 I hope you have strong shoulders and sharp drill bits. 38 1/2" holes to install sliders. I couldn't find my cheater handIe for my Dwalt. I started with 1/8" pilot and used 7 increasingly larger bits to get to the 1/2". My wrists thanked me. Am assuming you are installing these on @Burntoutaccountant 's Steed.
There is such a thing as a magnetic drill press, but the body would likely be in the way for many of the holes.
Whats kinda funny is i drilled a 9/16 hole, 8" deep in some aluminum the other day. The lathe makes that a breeze... Could be sippin on some coffee and drilling at the same time.
Thats the best use for an extension ladder ive seen lol!Degreased, metal etched, 2 coats of POR15 and 3 coats of POR15 topcoat. I'll let them dry good and install as soon as I get time. Salisbury won their Regional and have supers Friday and Saturday. If or should I say when they win we leave for the world series in Texas on Wednesday. Hard to squeeze in time right now.
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I used a roller extension pole and two ladders to paint my cab visor lol.
I have had some POR15 chip before, applied correctly. But its a seriously tough product. Only the top layer peeled off a bit. The rest is holding tough as nails. Its not a fun product to work with either.
661 - 680 of 689 Posts
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