6R80 cleaned, degreased and painted. I used the same Duplicolor engine paint but a different color. I probably should have smoothed some of the casting slag. No one will ever see it 😉. See pics if interested.
I hope to finish the engine this week and introduce it to the 6R80. Hopefully it will be a long lasting relationship.
I'm still waiting for the shock tabs from Threat. Once I receive them I will verify the location then I will have to pull the radius arms back off to have them welded on and repainted.
I split the case on my supposed 220k mile transfer case. Everything looks new. I guess it was rebuilt or replaced at some point. Here are some pictures. There doesn't seem to be any wear the only thing in the filter was a few strings of RTV that squeezed out and dropped in the case. I have a rebuild kit on the way. I guess I'll hold on to it for the future when I won't be able to find one. Here are some pics of the heavy wear areas.
Tcase could be original. Mine at 140k looked about the same; screen totally clean, and a similar groove worn into the case from the oil pump arm. Now's the time to fix it, so that you dont have problems with it in the future.
Thanks. I'm jumping around a lot trying to keep it moving forward while I wait on parts. Lots of stuff out of stock. Started sanding the radiator support yesterday as well. I was going to do the body after the chassis was complete but I may run out of stuff to do on the chassis.
My brother made some time to install my ARB and .456 gears in the D44 today. We also got the head studs so they are getting torqued so we and measure the required push rod length. Finally something other than sanding and painting.😀
Front diff is installed. Running out to get spindle bearings and seals. I need to located the lower front shock position before welding new tabs on. I want to have the front axles in when I locate the beams to make sure nothing is rubbing. Then I will mark the lower shock mounting location on the radius arm.
I want to know how you got that transmission case so clean before painting?
I need to go back a read this whole thread but in the meantime you mentioned speedo calibration in the 6R80 thread. How are you planing on controlling the 6R80? If using the Quick6 controller nothing is required if offers a speedometer signal and can easily be calibrated in the software.
If using some other means then the one device I know that will work is from Dakota Digital. They have updated to make it more modern. It has a bluetooth interface that you can use either Android or IOS device to program it.
I bought a little wire wheel kit from TSC. They fit a dremmel. There is an assortment of them in the bubble pack. i used them on the xfer case as well. I also have a spot sandblaster that I got from TSC used in the hard to reach places. It takes a little time and patience but I have been waiting on parts so I have plenty of time. Thanks for the info. I am planning on using the quick6. So I guess Ill have to figure that out later because if I read up on it now I will forget by the time I get to it. BTW good luck with your surgery. Ill be in the same boat most likely. Runs in the family.
I am still messing with the front suspension. With the body off and no drive train I am struggling with the radius arm mounting position. This directly effects the front axle/beam location front to back. With no body and no rear axles installed I can't measure the wheel base or visually check the tires in the front wheel wells.
I am trying to locate the bottom shock mounts on the radius arms. I am trying to get the front shocks perpendicular to the new shock towers. I hope you all can follow with this description. Here is a pic of the shock mounts that I need to weld on.
Sometimes I way over think things. Tommorow I will finish installing the axles, remove the front springs and compress the suspension to approximate ride height and see if I can figure this out. I still need to clearance the passenger beam for the axle slightly and calculate the length of the spring for the E clip elimination. Preliminary it looks like it need to be about 1 1/4" long. I'll post official results tomorrow.
My xfer case pump and rebuild kit arrived today. So if I get flustered with the front I will divert to that for awhile. Thanks for listening. Sometimes I just have to write it down.
I didn't get nearly as far as I wanted today. I removed the springs and fully articulated the front suspension to mark the slip joint max and min so I could calculate the length of the spring needed for the E clip elimination. While I was doing it I noticed slight clearancing was needed for the D50 stub. I took a little off the beam and a little off the ears of the shafts. Then I noticed a significant amount of clearancing for the axle shaft where it enter the beam. It was only an issue when the driver side was at full droop and the passage side was being compressed. Here is the end result.
I was unclear from my research how long the spring should be in the shaft. Here is the measurement inside the D50 stub.
Here is the axle shaft
Here is the minimum insertion when articulating the supension
I took a measurement from this and there was about an inch of space for the spring. I used the small spring from the Yukon kit and cut it to 1.5 inches. It just puts slight pressure when at max separation and isn't too strong at full insertion. I feels like it's just right to me. Time will tell. Here is the spring after I cut it.
So after removing and installing it about 15 times to check clearances and measure for the spring I put the spindle on torqued it down and realized I forgot to put the boot on and torque the lower ball joint. I'll fix that tomorrow.
I'm 95% sure I have the axle located so I will be pulling the radius arms to get the shock mounts welded.
I took my radius arms to my brothers shop to get the shock mounts welded. I should have the front suspension squared away this week.
I also had him weld a rid on the xfer case pump to spread the load on the case. Here is a picture of the case. You can see the notch worn into it.
Here is the pump arm. I still have to trim the rod to fit.
My engine is at his shop. The push rods and valve covers arrived while I was there so we put them in and on along with the intake. I am finding the ARP stainless engine bolts leave a lot to be desired. I had to order different header bolts and a few intake bolts. It also looks like I'll be short on accessory bolts as well. Here are a few pics I snapped.
On another note, I received the 6R80 to BW1356 adapter today.