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Discussion Starter #1
I think I am ready to start a build thread. I expect this to go slow. I have been gathering parts over the past months. I have also read a lot of info on here. I am starting with a bone stock 200k mile truck. No rust it's from Arizona. I picked up a 2011 6r80 and transfer case from a F150. I grabbed a 351 roller from the LJY out of a 97 250. It only has 76k. I am going to strip the block and have it machined for the 408 internals. I just scored some low milage AFR 185s, BBK fuel rail, regulator and a Ron Francis mass air wiring coversion. I plan on running a Mega Squirt sequential fuel injection. I am sourcing the 408 internals currently. Nothing crazy I want TQ from idle to 5500. My brother is an engine builder so I gave him my requirements and he is selecting the cam and internals. I'll share when it's purchased. I am going to try to use the 2011 transfer case but need a slip yoke eliminator. I was thinking getting machine shop to drill and tap the output shaft and bolting the 2011 drive salt yoke to the output shaft then adapting that to the current driveshaft. Open for suggestions on this. I have also got a 9 inch from a 80's f150 that I plan to use for some extra strength.

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Discussion Starter #2
I made this video to document the condition of the truck.




I sold the engine and transmission. It is supposed to be picked up Friday. So I guess it's on now. My intake and stroker kit arrived as well. Once I remove the engine I will finish tearing down it's replacement and then it's off to the machine shop.


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It will be slow. Trying to decide if I want to frame off it. Pretty sure I'm removing the front clip at minimum.

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Discussion Starter #5
Engine is out and with it's new owner. Surface rust on battery tray. That's the worst of it. I will be breaking down new donor on Tuesday. Still thinking about taking the body off.


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Discussion Starter #6
Finished breaking down the engine. Clearanced a couple of spots for the stroker kit. Off to the machine shop.


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Discussion Starter #7
I scored some 05 Denali seats. 3rd row bench is in excellent condition. The fronts need covers. $125 leave plenty of room for covers. I have charcoal interior and these are grey leather. Should look OK. I dont know if I can use the fronts. I have to do some research on making the passenger seat move far enough forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Still waiting on machine shop to prep block. They were backed up because of COVID. I hit a father's day sale at Threat Motorsports and ordered the full front and rear standard width package. Starting to remove the TTB for shipping this weekend.

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Discussion Starter #9
I started taking the TTB apart so I can ship beams the Threat for a cut and turn. I'm down to the heavy stuff. I also removed the inner fenders to get a better look at the radiator support. I'm definitely taking the front clip off for some cleaning and rust abatement. I've been soaking the radiator support mounts for a week or so. Here are some pics of my progress.


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Discussion Starter #10
There is a plug under the driver's side headlight attached to the radiator support. What is that for? Winch or lights?


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There is a plug under the driver's side headlight attached to the radiator support. What is that for? Winch or lights?


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I believe that's for the daytime running lights that were available on Broncos shipped to Canada.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Front clip is off. Diff is removed. I'm waiting on a 23mm socket to arrive and the beams will be on the way to Threat. I still can't decide if I want to remove the body or not. I kinda want to get the frame sanded and painted and be able to do the bottom of the body in impeded if you know what I mean. How do the core support bolts come out of the frame? I was able to get the nuts off the top without holding the bolt from the bottom. It's like it's welded in there.


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Discussion Starter #14
92. It had a non roller 351. I got a great deal on a 351 roller from a 97 F250. It's going to be a long road but I have been waiting to do something like this since I was a kid.

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Discussion Starter #15
Got beams ready for shipment. I decided to remove my shock towers because there was so much junk jammed in-between them and the frame. If your wondering when it's stripped down this far it takes 15 min per side with a grinder and air hammer. I think I'm going to order the Threat shock towers. I'm switching from dual to single shock so no need for 2 shock mounts. I think I will do the TSB on the cross member rivet while I'm at it. I think I will remove the motor mounts as well so I can rust prevent everything. Here are some pics. Here is the link to the shock tower.



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Discussion Starter #16
I just thought I would let everyone know I have never done anything this extensive before. I welcome suggestions and heads up type stuff. I have read extensively on different builds and how to's that I feel will help me do this. I feel like when I'm not working on it I am researching things for it or to help me complete tasks. I am really struggling with the decision to remove the body. I would really like to get better access to the frame to be able to sand, paint and set up the engine and transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Dropped the fuel tank, hitch and bumper today. I have decided to remove the body. It just doesn't make sense to go this far and not do it. I just have to coerce a family member to help.


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In case you decide to remove the rear spring mounts, a reciprocating saw with a good blade will cut through the rivet heads a lot faster than a grinder.

Making good progress, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks. For the heads up. I did a little research on blades the other day for the body mounts. It looks like Lennox are highly recommended. What about the motor mounts. They have a ton of crap jammed in between as well. Is it ok to remove them and bolt them back on?

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Discussion Starter #20
Houston. We have successful stage 1 separation.


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