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Discussion Starter #41
Dude! You built a monster truck. I didn't read the entire build but I did find out where Cobrajoe name comes from. I was planning on building a Cobra some day. I don't know if it will happen or not. Nice Bronco!
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Is shit ton a unit of measure? I feel like that's how much prep and paint I have to do. Santa came early. My lift kit arrived today in all its unpainted glory. Check out the coil buckets. They are awesome. The stuff on the workbench is the OEM stuff I have been blasting.


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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Got some prep and paint done. I POR 15'd the new beam pivots, beams, motor mounts and radius arm mounts.
I was not happy with the finish. It was hot and humid and POR 15 dries faster with moisture. It was leaving brush marks on everything. So I ran down to TSC and got Rust-Oleum implement primer and paint to do the coil buckets, radius Arms and knuckles. These would be seen and wanted a nicer finish. I had used POR 15 on another project and it worked great and smoothed out nice, but that was in cooler dryer weather. Lesson learned. At least all the stuff that is hard to clean is protected from rust. I also used the internal frame paint inside the beams. I am going to begin some assembly to break up some of the painting.
IMG_20200730_190502.jpg IMG_20200730_190406.jpg IMG_20200730_190421.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Late night. Crank and pistons and cam are in. My nephew's helped. Heads and intake are just there for the photo op. I have to paint the water pump, timing cover and pan tomorrow. Need to measure for the pushrods. Whenever they come in we can seal it up.
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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ARP Studs, nice!
 
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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Like my dear old Grandma used to say: "Now that's the shit I'm talkin' about!"
 
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Discussion Starter #50
Had to clearance the pan a bit for the oil pump. Went with a high volume pump because I drilled the cam plate and oil galley plug for extra lube on distributor and timing set. Buggered up my primo paint job. Also have the wrong studs for the heads. 7/16 instead of 1/2. Gaskets are not the correct ones for AFR heads. Sooooo waiting on parts.
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Make sure you have the proper clearance between the pan & pickup tube
 

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Discussion Starter #52
We used my nephews play-doh for that. Thanks for looking out.
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Nice. I usually flip the engine over and run a square (straight edge) across the bottom of the pickup tube and measure down to the block w/gasket in place. I then run the straight edge across the pan rails (with gasket) and measure down to the bottom of the pan & compare the two measurements. I usually run 3/8"-1/2" clearance, if needed, i bend the tube to fall within spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Do you have any advice on the radius arm bracket location? I'm going to work on the chassis while I'm waiting on engine parts.
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Not sure if this is the right way, but I have always chocked the wheels and moved the axle to a location where the wheel was centered and the spring fairly straight. Once I got one side located, (clamped) I'd measure off the chassis and locate the opposite side. Once I have it all squared up, I then drill my holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Thanks that was my plan. I am hoping Threat can give me a reference point to make it easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I've been sanding prepping and painting my ass off. I have a question for anyone following. I spent a couple of hours removing the tar/putty/gook from the strap area of the tank so I can paint it. What is that stuff and is there something else I can use to replace it when I reinstall it?

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Let me give you a tip - that will save you a TON of time when you start getting ready to put stuff back together.
Get some cheap tupperware. Get some painters tape and a sharpie.

Then hit up Harbor Freight and get some of this:


Pour some in a container - label the container with what bolts you're soaking. Drop the bolts in, put the top on and let them soak. Then when you're ready to use 'em, a quick brush off and spray with brake cleaner, and you won't feel the urge to buy new bolts.

A couple days in this stuff (it's non toxic, doesn't stink etc) and stuff comes out looking new

164844
 

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Let me give you a tip - that will save you a TON of time when you start getting ready to put stuff back together.
Get some cheap tupperware. Get some painters tape and a sharpie.

Then hit up Harbor Freight and get some of this:


Pour some in a container - label the container with what bolts you're soaking. Drop the bolts in, put the top on and let them soak. Then when you're ready to use 'em, a quick brush off and spray with brake cleaner, and you won't feel the urge to buy new bolts.

A couple days in this stuff (it's non toxic, doesn't stink etc) and stuff comes out looking new

View attachment 164844
+1 on the Evapo-Rust. FYI, if you have a Tractor Supply near you, you can pick a gallon up about 40% cheaper than at Harbor Freight...

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/evapo-rust-super-safe-rust-remover
 

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Not sure if this is the right way, but I have always chocked the wheels and moved the axle to a location where the wheel was centered and the spring fairly straight. Once I got one side located, (clamped) I'd measure off the chassis and locate the opposite side. Once I have it all squared up, I then drill my holes.
Dang I wish I'd thought of that before I did my RA's. I just measured from the previous holes back to the new location as the instructions stated, but should have mocked it up a bit more to double check. Would have saved me a lot of anxiety!
 
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