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Discussion Starter #201
I went ahead and bought the Stayco 1451 2-row -- reviews are sparse but good, and at $71 shipped it's barely more than a used one -- but I'll keep that code in mind to try out on something else.

I recovered as much of the coolant I could, having just put in ~$30 of it. It's crazy to think that filling the radiator costs half as much as a new radiator. In hindsight, I should have tested the system with just distilled water, then drained half of it and added coolant.
 

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Good deal. Can't wait to hear you fire it up for the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
The JBA headers are in, and the Mangaflow y-pipe and Eastern cat are loosely bolted up. I need to cut and fit the ~8" extension to meet the muffler, then exhaust will be done. I went with butt and lap joints, and a slip-on cat, to simplify installation and make it possible to remove (for access) without cutting in the future.

Having some proper spark plug wire looms that handle the big 9mm wires really helped tidy things up.





So much room without the vacuum canisters and smog pipe! Shorty headers installed, spark plug wires tidied up and protected with sleeves. I'm undecided if it was worth the trouble, but I shaved down the sides of a F-series 2-leg lift point (non-offset legs like the Bronco's, so able to fit flat on headers) to fit the tight space between the JBA runners and the bolt holes. I don't have one on the driver's side yet.




The spark plug wires are a bit tougher to tame on the driver's side... The dipstick tube was a bit of a PITA. I had to shave down one side so it would fit over the bolt (again, bigger diameter exhaust tubes) and bend it out of the way of the filler cap. Then there's the downside of the non-hardening teflon pipe paste for seating it in the too-big hole. That's great for inserting it once, but messy when pulling it back out when you realize the support leg needs modifying.


The radiator I ordered was supposed to ship from CA, but instead came from TN. Instead of taking a couple days to get here, it's going to be more than a week. :( BTW, the SCW227 code does work at Advance Auto. Makes me wish I had just bought the radiator locally. I might buy an AutoMeter transmission temperature gauge from them when I have enough in the cart for the $75 ship-to-home. Apparently, that's a before discounts threshold, so I'm still $36 shy after the 30% off...
 

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Discussion Starter #206
plugging right along. :thumbup
pun intended. ;)
Hey, no bald jokes!

Illness has me slowed a bit, so rather than work on exhaust today I installed some Polk DXi651 front speakers. No more snap crackle 'n pop factory speakers... One front and one rear were bordering on blown.

I bought them factory refurb directly from Polk for $30. Can't expect much more than "adequate" for that price. They sound fairly good, but a bit thinner than I had hoped for. I haven't decided what I'm doing yet for the rears. Probably 6x9 full range or 8" midbass, although the latter isn't happening unless I add an amp. And either direction will have to wait until I settle on a a direction for a custom enclosure and side storage (in place of the XLT trim).

I toyed with an idea I saw here, bolting down uni-strut where the rear seats would attach. It's pretty solid with just the front two attachment points, but would benefit from another hole being added in back somewhere. It has a lot of potential as a near-infinitely adjustable tie-down system.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
The exhaust is finished up, with the exception of tightening down the header/collector bolts still. Other than bolt-on axleback mufflers, this was my first real exhaust project. As long as it proves durable, I'm pleased with how it turned out.



The slip-on cat is connected straight to the y-pipe. At the other end, I needed a ~9" extension to meet up with the muffler. I cut it just short enough that I could wiggle it on and off with the lap/butt clamps removed. There's a small lip on the old muffler pipe where I cut the smaller diameter tube from the factory cat in front of the weld line. That helps lock the extension pipe into place, like a mini-slip-on joint. If, god forbid, I ever have to pull the engine (or transmission) again, being able to unbolt the front half of the exhaust will make things sooooo much easier.

I also went shoe shopping yesterday...



I've been on the lookout for some decent tires, as my 31x10.5x15's were nearly bare. (I swear the tread has gotten lower just parked.) Mounted on 5x5.5's would be icing on the cake. Buying used tires is difficult, though, as every craigslister passes off 3/32" as "lots of life left" or 60-70% as "like new," figuring most buyers will fall for the "they're only down to the first wear bar" trick.

These wheels popped up 45 minutes away Sat night, but I didn't see them until Sun morning. The seller estimated 50-60% tread, which looked accurate in the pictures and turned out to be spot on, with 7/32" on two (mounted as the fronts) and 9/32" on the other two. He only wanted $140 for them, which is worth it for the wheels even if the tires turned out to be garbage. I headed up as soon as he was available. Turns out he restores classic Broncos, among other things, and always puts new wheels/tires on them before selling.

The tires are 32x11.5x15, which is probably the biggest I can go with no suspension modifications. I believe they're American Racing wheels, as the two rears have AR caps and they say "ARE INC." on the back side, which leads to American Racing on a google search, but I can't find the ARE acronym used anywhere. There's a bit of weather cracking, and while mounting them I noticed that one has a slight bulge and another has a fairly big wrinkle/crease in the sidewall, so they may not be as long-term of a solution as I had hoped. In which case, I'm still on the lookout for tires, but at least I have spiffy new alloys. I'm actually not sure I like the look on the truck quite as much as the wagon wheels, but the weight difference more than makes up for it. Despite being an inch taller, an inch wider, and having several pounds more tread on them, they feel like they're 5+ lbs lighter than the old ones.

I sold the GT40P intake and heads from the Explorer last week, plus one of my Optima batteries yesterday. That got a bit of cash flowing again and helped justify the wheel purchase.

Four more days till the radiator arrives...
 

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Discussion Starter #208
"Carma"...

Yesterday, I spent a couple hours modifying a screw-down airbox top to fit the MAF-style clamp lower, only to have the carefully shaved down tabs break when trying to assemble it. It's solid enough for short-term use. I hadn't been able to find a clamp top and couldn't put it off any longer with current plans.

Today, I hit the junkyard and they had a new truck in with the full MAF/box... Never fails.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
One of the other things I bought yesterday at the JY was a vented bumper from a F-series. Getting the four big nuts loose with just a 3/8" socket was a challenge (but quite easy with a breaker bar on mine at home), and even once I got them spinning, the backing plate that connects the two studs snapped on one of the sides, making them spin freely. I then changed course and just removed the four little bolts. It's hard to believe that's all that holds the stout bumper to the mounting plates.

Anyway, I've had those LED cube lights sitting in the box, waiting to be installed. I was leaning toward doing bumper cutouts for them, but a bumper with existing cutouts the perfect size? Win! After some fiddling with mounting ideas, here's what I came up with:



1992 Ford Bronco Mods picture | SuperMotors.net

I need to build the same bracket for the other light still. It ended up ~1/8" lower than I thought I had it positioned, but with so many angles to work with, using the slope of the bottom lip to mount to, it was a losing battle from the start. Maybe I'll move it up with some more washers. The bracket itself I "fabbed" had a slant of its own that I had to level out with a 4:1 washer ratio.

I couldn't decide if the inner or outer holes would look best for the two cubes, but the outers were going to be tougher to work around support stuff on the backside. Who knows, if they work well, I may add a second set at some point. Two cubes on each side and a Knight Rider red light in the middle...

When I got the "new" bumper off the truck, it had a couple dents in the lower portion that weren't obvious from above. After a few whacks with the hammer/sledge and body kit, you can barely tell they were there.

I had that same gap above the old bumper. I thought I would be able to adjust it out with the vertical sliders, but it turns out that's as high as they go.

The new bumper had had its license plate mount removed, so I went to transfer it over from the old one and was surprised to learn that the darn thing is riveted on. I drilled them out and haven't mounted it to the new one yet. I guess I'll re-do it with pop rivets and fender washers. I also picked up a good bottom lip to add on, but need to get the proper sized plastic clips for it first. The ones on the donor truck were so flimsy/flexy, I had to cut them off from behind because my panel poppers couldn't grab onto the head at all. I looked at my old bumper when it was removed and wouldn't you know, the lip was riveted on there instead of clipped on.

I sold $220 worth of car parts today and have someone supposedly stopping by within the hour for the wheels/tires I replaced last week. Slowly moving toward getting my head above water...
 

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How much was the bumper? I have a 95 EB and my front bumper has a hude dent in the middle. One of my friend's dad's was doing a body swap on one we rolled (check my first thread for pics :) ), and offered me the front bumper if I took it off, but I didn't have the time :( Also now seeing your's with the light pod I definitely want to do that now too!
 

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Discussion Starter #211
How much was the bumper?
I paid $80 for the following: bumper & lower lip, MAF/airbox, charcoal front grille (mine is chrome, painted black) & right headlight surround (left was shattered), painted non-rusty battery tray, engine lift hook, and tranny cooler. It pays to buy in bulk! And to be a regular customer.

The wheels are gone. I paid $140 for the new ones and sold the old ones for $120. That worked out well. I didn't expect them to move nearly that quick, but given that I've been looking for something myself for 3 months, I suppose it's slim pickings. Good thing I jumped on the new ones quick.
 

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great build... I love the new bumper. I have been putting off replacing mine. How close are the outside cutouts to the frame rails? I was thinking about buying a bumper like yours and putting tow hooks in the outside holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #213
How close are the outside cutouts to the frame rails? I was thinking about buying a bumper like yours and putting tow hooks in the outside holes.
I've been looking at that, too. The frame rails are just to the outside of the outer cutouts. It wouldn't require much of an offset to the hooks to extend through. However, there are two issues to overcome:

1) The accordion frame horns. Hooks would need to extend back and be bolted to the solid section of the rails.

2) The hooks would have to be small enough to slide through the cutout, otherwise you'd have to remove them to pull the bumper, which would be a pretty significant PITA.

I did run into a minor problem last night when affixing the license plate bracket: It doesn't fit the vented bumper. The holes are right, but the plastic around the bumper's cutouts must not be quite centered, pushing the bracket maybe 1/4" to the side and overlapping the holes by about 50%. My bracket is F2TB-17A385-ABW and new listings appear to all be F2TZ-17A385-A, but they look identical in pictures. Not sure if I'll try shaving down the minimal plastic in the recessed part of the bracket's bolt hole area, or drill two holes in the license plate and direct mount it (will require bending its corners to fit in), or just try a new one and see if they made an imperceptible tweak.
 

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@foddler

Thanks I forget about that accordion frame in the front...as for the license plate holder the quick fix would probably be to shave a little plastic. There should be plenty of overlap from the license plate bracket to cover it and it will not be visible. My state doesn't require the front plate and I am not too concerned about the front plate. I just like the appearance of the vented bumper and would like the extra air flow.
 

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one thing to note about the bracket part numbers, note the 4th numbers are B and Z. the B indicates that it was in the "Body and electrical product Engineering" division, while the Z indicates it is "Ford Parts and Service Division; Parts Engineering Office (Ford Division Service Parts)" i would be suspicious that the two parts are the exact same, just one is the original part, the other is a part that was produced to be sold at the parts counter. of course, this is all speculation but if i were you, i would (1) try to modify the existing bracket to make it fit, and if that doesnt work (2) find out more info about the new bracket to make sure it will work (before i bought it). the point im trying to make is that the "new" part number is not necessarily a later revision of the original part number. not sure if they are actually different, or the same, but you'll need to find out.

reading the rest of the part number doesnt tell me much, the 17A385 just indicates it is a bumper bracket. on the "new" part, the A at the end just indicates it is the first revision of that part, so they only made one version for sale at the parts counter. the "ABW" at the end of the "original" bracket indicates it is revision ABW, not sure if that means that there are other versions or not (the versions do not always start with A), or for that matter, there may even be a different part number entirely for the bracket for the vented bumper. or maybe the 2 brackets are actually different, i would just find out before i spent any money on a new bracket.

here's some more info about part numbers:
How to Decipher FoMoCo Part Numbers - Overview - FORDification.com
 

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Discussion Starter #217
as for the license plate holder the quick fix would probably be to shave a little plastic. There should be plenty of overlap from the license plate bracket to cover it and it will not be visible.
That's my last resort, as it's the least reversible. Who knows how much plastic is there to shave... Not much can be shaved from the license plate bracket, but at least it's an easy do-over if messing it up.

It looks like the problem is that the plastic inserts on the bumper are misaligned ever so slightly. (Of course, I centered the light brackets with them. Doh.) They clip into the bumper, so maybe they have some ability to be repositioned. However, I think the easiest fix is to just expand the two holes in the bumper a bit, ovaling them out. Even with no plate, it would hardly be noticeable.

My state doesn't require the front plate and I am not too concerned about the front plate. I just like the appearance of the vented bumper and would like the extra air flow.
I'm envious! I've been pulled over for no front plate when my bracket was off for repair, but I got off with a warning. I imagine it's on my record now and playing dumb wouldn't work.

this is what i did. one side came out better than the other. the passenger side has droop hook.
That definitely addresses the concern of bumper removal if putting the hooks through the outer vents. But, you're not worried about being bolted to the accordion section? (I imagine that's what made it tough to get the passenger side level.)


one thing to note about the bracket part numbers, note the 4th numbers are B and Z...

here's some more info about part numbers:
How to Decipher FoMoCo Part Numbers - Overview - FORDification.com
I'd never seen that, thanks! I had no idea there's a pattern to the part numbering.

The radiator is out for delivery, but UPS has a rather annoying 12 hour window to their delivery "schedule" here, and it's raining off and on today (and Sat/Sun), so we'll see if I'm able to do anything with it. I finished up some wiring stuff and reinforced the "new" front lip with a backing plate to keep the middle split from extending up the front like my old one. Did they come from the factory with that middle split for flexibility, or do they all develop it in the exact same spot, along a perfectly straight line?

BTW, here's the bracket I built for the LED cube:



Any guesses what it began its life as? I need to pick up one more to do the other side... I recorded my measurements and pre-drilled the holes in the bumper, since it's a heck of a lot easier to do with it on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #218
The radiator showed up and the heavy rainstorm cleared out, so things were looking good for a late afternoon of work. The radiator install itself was quite easy, but I ran into another of those unexpected roadblocks when it turned out the transmission cooler fittings are the wrong size. You'd think that would be standard.

I figured I could reuse the fittings from the old radiator, but only one would come off. The other held on tighter than the piece it's threaded to and would only spin in place after that, with nothing to grip at the base. I was pretty fed up at that point and just bent the lines out of the way, having been heavily leaning toward adding an external tranny cooler, anyway. I'll cut them off somewhere down below and run soft lines to them once I figure out where to mount the cooler. I don't plan to use the radiator's cooler in conjunction, although I've read some accounts of tranny temps rising when sitting in traffic with just the external cooler. I suspect the airflow from the fan makes the radiator cooler more effective in that scenario. I'm just ready to be done with those stupid tranny cooler lines after how much they were in the way with the engine install and how hard they were to loosen from the old radiator.



It's still a speed density setup, but I used the K&N intake tube and MAF assembly in the interim. The MAF wiring doesn't run to anything, but I left the connector on to keep things dry. My ACT/IAT is relocated to the MAF spot in the airbox. The radiator held good pressure, so everything should be good to go now once the tranny lines are looped to a cooler.
 

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The only issue you might have is with over-cooling the transmission. The in radiator "cooler" is meant more to keep the trans temp stable, rather than to cool it. In the winter with just an external cooler the trans may not fully warm up. But you can always re-plumb those lines later if needed. Not sure how cold it gets up there but here georgia it doesn't get cold enough to worry about over-cooling the trans.
 
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