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Discussion Starter #361
The headlight harness and inner door handle bracket arrived two days after ordering. Not bad! I didn't have time to mess with the door handle bracket, but the headlight harness was quite easy to install and does indeed seem to add significant brightness (direct from battery, not through the dash switch) during daylight.
 

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I was real happy I installed my new headlight harness during the engine swap. shortly after... I'm pretty certain I would have nailed a Deer on the road without the better lighting. As it was... I nearly tipped it's tail. :toothless saved me a ton of money and hassle, potentially.
 

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Discussion Starter #363
I can imagine that helped! I flicked them on when I got home tonight, and they do seem a lot brighter and whiter looking into them. Then again, looking into that extra light might have frozen the deer...
 

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Discussion Starter #365
I installed the LH inner door handle reinforcement plate today, and it turned out to be a wise choice. The panel portion the speed nut clips into was starting to crack in several places, so it was only a matter of time.

The rivets that Bronco Graveyard includes with the plate are pretty cheap. The first one's pin fell through freely...it would be nice if they included a spare or two. But, I guess they figure, anyone with a riveter is going to have a pile of 1/8" rivets.
 

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Discussion Starter #366
I was looking at another Copart auction of interest today and noticed a link for AutoCheck "View Report" with an info popup that said it's available for vehicles with clean titles. I don't remember seeing that before... So, I went back and looked at the old listing for my Bronco and that same link was there.



Of interest, it spent its first 8 years in Missouri, not Oregon as I had assumed. (Maybe I should be paying more attention to frame rail surface rust, knowing that!) It looks to have still been a forestry vehicle from 2000-2003, based on the emissions inspections which wouldn't have been required outside the Portland Metro area. It appears to have sat un-driven from '03-09 and been purchased privately in '09, '11, '13, and '14. It's like no one wanted to pony up for tag renewal... From that info, I can semi-safely assume that it was well maintained its first 138k miles, and let go to hell the subsequent 53k. The last owner from '14-17 is probably when things went really bad.

While strolling down memory lane, I was struck by how different and frumpy the Bronco looked pre-purchase. So, naturally, I had to take a comparison photo...



Tomorrow, I've got Safelite putting in a new windshield to address a chip that's slowly becoming a spreading crack. I'll have them put on the appropriate mount to install my GM temperature/compass mirror at that time. I'm also hopeful that it'll solve the passenger side window header leak.

The '95 MAF PCM is being serviced this week. I've got all the injector and MAF wiring separated out from the '95 harness, so all that's left to do is re-pin (and pull the upper intake to run the new injector wires) and pop in the "new" computer when it's back. The weather should be dry through the end of this week, then looks rainy beyond that. Re-pinning in the rain doesn't sound fun or wise, so I'm hoping to have word by mid-week whether the burnt resistor on the PCM was repairable...then I can do my re-pinning in the dry and be ready for its return.
 

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Weren't you about ready to cut your losses at one point with this thing? Why did you decide to keep it? Seems like you're getting into more serious modifications recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #368
Weren't you about ready to cut your losses at one point with this thing? Why did you decide to keep it? Seems like you're getting into more serious modifications recently.
You're probably thinking of the '96 V8 Explorer I bought about this time last year, and the subsequent angst over which of the two to keep. I don't think I ever viewed it, or expressed it, as cutting my losses on the Bronco, but I may be forgetting something.

Ironically, I bought the Explorer for such a low $$$ amount at auction (like, the winning bid was barely more than the value of the gas in the tank), figuring the cost after fees and delivery would be less than the GT40 heads were worth to me -- tying into the current projects, with the newly acquired GT40 heads being ported -- if I decided to part it out. The problem is, it turned out to be in immaculate condition aside from the minor front end work needed, so I was left wondering if it would make more sense for my usage. (It took me a year to find another set of GT40 heads.)

But, that's also what led me to the eventual discovery (with your help, I think) that the struts on my Bronco were awful! I thought that's the way it's supposed to ride, based on other people's accounts that I had misinterpreted... With that addressed, and seeing how aggravating the tiny Explorer engine bay was to work on, a lot of the Explorer's selling points were gone.
 

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You're probably thinking of the '96 V8 Explorer I bought about this time last year, and the subsequent angst over which of the two to keep. I don't think I ever viewed it, or expressed it, as cutting my losses on the Bronco, but I may be forgetting something.

Ironically, I bought the Explorer for such a low $$$ amount at auction (like, the winning bid was barely more than the value of the gas in the tank), figuring the cost after fees and delivery would be less than the GT40 heads were worth to me -- tying into the current projects, with the newly acquired GT40 heads being ported -- if I decided to part it out. The problem is, it turned out to be in immaculate condition aside from the minor front end work needed, so I was left wondering if it would make more sense for my usage. (It took me a year to find another set of GT40 heads.)

But, that's also what led me to the eventual discovery (with your help, I think) that the struts on my Bronco were awful! I thought that's the way it's supposed to ride, based on other people's accounts that I had misinterpreted... With that addressed, and seeing how aggravating the tiny Explorer engine bay was to work on, a lot of the Explorer's selling points were gone.
Ahhh...I think you're right. Well glad to see the progress continuing on the bronco!
 

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Discussion Starter #370
I discovered something this week that may be old news to some, but I've seen enough contradictory information in looking it up, that maybe it'll be helpful to others. When I got the Bronco, there was no door chime (or fire alarm, more fittingly), which turned out to be due to the module under the dash being disconnected. With how loud it is, that's understandable. With it reconnected, I have the buzzer when opening the door with the key in the ignition, but no headlight warning.

I made a JY trip yesterday and, of course, forgot to turn off the headlights. (Foggish drive there turned sunny.) No drain-down issues, but annoying to do stupid things like that. So, I looked it up when I got home and it turns out there are two different buzzer modules that look identical from the outside. They all have 7 wires going in, but the base model has only 6 pins, with the brown headlight wire not connecting to anything. The XLT and EB trim levels get a lights package with the 7th pin on the module. So, I'll be on the lookout for one of those next JY trip.

Also, the headlight and key signals are a single wire, so you could in theory de-pin whichever you don't want triggering it. Just wrap that wire up in electrical tape and set it off to the side.

I found a non-accordion 4.9/7.5L intake snorkel yesterday, to perhaps replace my accordion one, as well as not one but two (!) center console cup holder inserts. I've been looking for one for more than a year.

The windshield hasn't been replaced yet, with Safelite earning themselves a spot on my "never do business with again" list. First, they have an aggravatingly long noon to 5pm service window, then the dude calls at 5:30 saying he's just leaving the previous appt an hour away...

Edit: Almost forgot, the JY also had a nice BFG A/T 33x10.5R15 tire mounted on a Ranger wheel. I just gave up on looking for a narrow 33" spare and put on the full 33x12.5 like two weeks ago... Hercules!
 

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Discussion Starter #371
MAF Conversion is finally completed:

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/67-ecc-tuning/499800-maf-conversion-underway-wiring-questions.html

I got the windshield replaced last week. Cascade Auto Glass did a bang-up job. The service tech is an off-road fanatic -- you'll have to excuse him for being a Jeep guy, but his grandpa is a Bronco guy, so it's all good -- and had enough appreciation for the truck to want to do it right. He warned me the same thing I had been told previously, with these windshield frames being notoriously bad for rust. He figured it was 50/50 from external cues whether there would be rust holes that would keep him from being able to proceed without the intermediate step of a body shop.

It turned out to only be [lots of] surface rust, so while he was cleaning off the old urethane, I ran up to AutoZone and picked up one of each rust treatment product. He looked over the options and felt the Loctite-branded Naval Jelly made the most sense, both for application and speed of doing its thing. Two treatments of that had the metal looking great! He felt real good about sealing it up like that and having it be water tight for many years to come.

Rain is finally in the forecast later this week. Fingers crossed that my small leak over the passenger foot rest will be a thing of the past. There was a lot of rust over that area on the windshield header.
 

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MAF Conversion is finally completed:

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/67-ecc-tuning/499800-maf-conversion-underway-wiring-questions.html

I got the windshield replaced last week. Cascade Auto Glass did a bang-up job. The service tech is an off-road fanatic -- you'll have to excuse him for being a Jeep guy, but his grandpa is a Bronco guy, so it's all good -- and had enough appreciation for the truck to want to do it right. He warned me the same thing I had been told previously, with these windshield frames being notoriously bad for rust. He figured it was 50/50 from external cues whether there would be rust holes that would keep him from being able to proceed without the intermediate step of a body shop.

It turned out to only be [lots of] surface rust, so while he was cleaning off the old urethane, I ran up to AutoZone and picked up one of each rust treatment product. He looked over the options and felt the Loctite-branded Naval Jelly made the most sense, both for application and speed of doing its thing. Two treatments of that had the metal looking great! He felt real good about sealing it up like that and having it be water tight for many years to come.

Rain is finally in the forecast later this week. Fingers crossed that my small leak over the passenger foot rest will be a thing of the past. There was a lot of rust over that area on the windshield header.
I'm going to be replacing the windshield in mine and my 93 F350. Reading this, I'm now going to find someone willing to remove it and come back later after I do a rust treatment. Thanks for the info

Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #373
^ Good call. In my case, they were trying to schedule with the office to be able to come back with the windshield in 2 days for an "emergency" service...and it unexpectedly rained the next day. I've never used naval jelly before (neither had the service tech), but always heard great things about it. It sounds like snake oil until you actually use it. If you have the extra time, though, you might try some of the stuff that actually converts rust back into metal.

The service tech took the time to build up the seams at the upper corners that allow a lot of the water in, so that's something to ask for. It's a pretty wide gap and sort of a valley leading to it. He filled that fairly flush with urethane and recommended I go over the entirety of the drip rails with seam sealer, as they contribute to the problem up front. I had a bit of rust hole action on the rears, but didn't know the fronts are a problem.

Oh, and going back a couple posts, I did find one of the 7-pin door chime modules. It's sooooo much nicer than the 6-pin obnoxious buzzer module, and having the headlight warning is great. The 7-pin version is brown and bigger than the white 6-pin version, unless there are variations over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter #374
First rainy day in awhile, so I super soaked the roof and windshield with the assistance of a hose to stress test last week's work...no drip drip on the passenger foot well! The rust treatment and attentive urethane application appears to have done the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #375
I think it was while mucking through the rear diff LSD rebuild this spring, I simultaneously realized I hadn't named the Bronco, and what that name had to be. I found the perfect badge but held off on adhering it until seeing if the windshield would need replacing. I remembered it this week and today was the lone rain-less day, so I'm pleased to announce...F-Bomb!

 

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Discussion Starter #377

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Discussion Starter #378
The only thing better than choosing your own presents is buying tools for your significant other. I settled for second best...and scored an unused Hi-Lift Extreme XT-485 for $75 (including handle isolator) on my birthday. I've started researching and brainstorming mounting options.



The seller was parting out an overland build and bestowed the wish that it provides me as little use as it did him. :) If nothing else, I have some fence posts to pull soon...
 

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Discussion Starter #379
After looking through other people's Hi-Lift mounting ideas and doing some measuring, I decided to go a different route...



That angle doesn't quite capture how perfectly it fits into the space, using barely a whisker of cargo area or rear access. The foot is raised a few notches so the base can tuck in under the seat belt reel. I'll start working tomorrow on a bracket up top to bolt the ladder bar to and keep it away from the glass. The bottom will be secured to the bolt below the seat belt reel, using a strap. That and gravity should keep it from being tempted to go anywhere.

I'll finish it up by cutting the front portion off of the old tan (poorly painted black) seat belt reel cover, so as to tidy up the section closest to the door and keep the seat belt from being a tripping hazard. Conveniently, that side was already missing the little shelf where the rear screw goes into, so: a) I'm not forsaking an attachment there, and b) there's less interference for the jack. I'll put some door edge guard along the vertical seam just rearward of the seat belt reel.
 

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Of interest, it spent its first 8 years in Missouri, not Oregon as I had assumed. (Maybe I should be paying more attention to frame rail surface rust, knowing that!)
Just an FYI it could have gone straight from the Missouri dealer to Oregon in fact that's a likely scenario. Early on these records weren't reported to the databases that autocheck pulls (if they even existed) so I see those gaps often on older cars. I work at a new car franchise we've sent cars nationwide. Just depends on how specific the buyer is and if they are willing to pay up to fulfill their wants.
 
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