Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

381 - 400 of 414 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,187 Posts
Great job on that Hi-lift mount. It does look like it tucks in there nice and tight. I may steal this idea down the road
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #382
Just an FYI it could have gone straight from the Missouri dealer to Oregon in fact that's a likely scenario. Early on these records weren't reported to the databases that autocheck pulls (if they even existed) so I see those gaps often on older cars. I work at a new car franchise we've sent cars nationwide. Just depends on how specific the buyer is and if they are willing to pay up to fulfill their wants.
Good point, there's nothing in the report tying it to Missouri between '92 and '00, so it may well have been sent straight to Oregon if that's the way dealers do things. I figured there'd have been an earlier update if so.

I got the Hi-Lift mount mostly finished up today. The angles of the scrap pieces I used didn't work out quite as well as hoped for, so I may treat it as a rough draft. At least my welding game was moderately strong today (not the exterior-visible sides, of course). It was the coldest morning of the year, so I worked on the lower strap first before doing outside work... Links to full-size pics follow each embed, since they're mostly long and narrow and may be tough to see clearly.



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145528



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145529

I originally planned on the mount spanning the b-pillar and foremost bed rail bolts, which is why the jack was angled back more in the initial pic. I decided to use the bolt-in dual clip piece for the bed rail trim, for a tidier look. The angles got the better of me, though.



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145530

I ran out of daylight and used velcro straps to secure the upper portion instead of trying to line up a wingnut/bolt setup with the funky angles. A quick rip of the old trim panel with the jigsaw finished things up for the night:



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145531



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145532

Exterior view:



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145533



The jack handle won't hit the glass now...crap, all my test fits were with the seat forward; didn't think to check interference there, so I'll probably have to drop the top clamp for storage.

Edit: I ran across this...

"in my case i bought a Hi-Lift Xtreme, and whomever i bought it from (i forget where i bought it now) happily sold me the plastic Hi-Lift base too without informing me that the stock base of the Hi-Lift Xtreme is a good bit smaller than that of the standard Hi-Lift jack..."

https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/124502-sbe-wide-hi-lift-jack-base.html

If true, my mounting location may be a tight fit for regular model Hi-Lifts. You might be able to make it work still with a pad below it, moving it up into the wider portion of the well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #384
^ Yep. Never noticed that before, huh? The original interior is tan, much of it crudely painted black. I got all the interior trim panels from a blue interior truck, which later turned out to be the one my replacement engine had been pulled from. Its seat belts were already gone, but my tan receivers (on the floor) were thrashed and the blue ones were good. So, the seat belts and passenger seat are the only tan stuff left.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #385
I was taking the Bronco out for a spin last night and didn't want the loosely secured top of the Hi-Lift rattling around on the Rough Draft mount, so I looked around for padding ideas and remembered I had some proper straps made up from an old, abandoned project. That and some edge guard along the bracket behind the ladder rail really locked things in tight. Not a hint of noise.



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145560

The d-rings make it easy to cinch it down good, unlike the little velcro keeper straps used initially. Much easier to find the ends for removal, too!



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145561

Mostly, though, it was an excuse to show a good front/inner view of the better welds. :) If you're wondering what the weird piece of metal is that forms the vertical part of the bracket, it's the brake / nose piece from my old wheelbarrow, the part that connects the front of the two handles, in front of the wheel. It was pretty rusty, so I hit it with the wire wheel, flap disc, and naval jelly. It'll probably get replaced by something better now that I know the shape I'm trying to hit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #386
Another surprise snow day coincided with the inspiration to tackle v2 of the Hi-Lift mount. Knowing the shape it needed to be (from v1's experiment) made a rather complex arrangement of angles significantly easier to get right.



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145989



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145990

The welded section in the straight piece was like that from the donor bar...not a screw-up on my part. I'll paint it along with the York compressor mount and Windstar seat base that are waiting for warmer weather.

And here it is mounted:



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145992

That gives a good idea of how snug it tucks in, not even protruding beyond the seat belt. (I don't remember if I ever posted a picture of it, but the Windstar rear cargo light made an appearance in the background.)



https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1145994

Making an appearance in the above photo is the extend-a-mirror from last week's JY trip. It was paired with a 4" round convex mirror that was pretty badly cracked, so I swapped in the jumbo one shown that I had lying around. That's so much better than having a small convex mirror in the corner of the main mirror like before. My eyesight ain't getting any better, and the 2" round was barely visible that far away, plus it just made the rest of the mirror that much less useful.





I love that it looks like a shotgun from outside. :)

I have plans for a combo wheel lift-mate / bumper hook / rock slider cradle with adjustable length for different tire/wheel sizes, but I haven't found the appropriate supplies. No idea why no one's done that yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #387
I finally got a chance to test the Bronco's 4WD in the snow today. Our snow events around here tend to be slush conditions by morning, with it rarely staying below freezing for long when there's the necessary cloud cover for snow. (That's also why snow = ice here.) It stayed cold and stuck around for a few hours today, though. I was in 2-high pulling out onto the main road and could feel the tail end coming around with little resistance, so I shifted to 4-high and immediately had excellent control.

A few blocks later, I was behind a newer F-series at a red light. I didn't catch the badging, but I'm guessing a F250 judging from the work truck looking stance (tall, narrow tires). The guy seemed like he was asleep at the light after two cars had gone by on his left, then I sat up tall to look over the hood and saw he was spinning in place. I assume and hope he only had 2WD... I flipped on my rear bumper lights and the person behind me immediately got the hint and went around. I backed up a bit and gave the truck ahead space, which allowed him to roll back and eventually get moving. He was squirming all over going up the mild hill. Naturally, the Bronco rolled through without a hint of drama.

Another block up ahead, a city bus was jackknifed against the curb. I waited for it to get straightened out and rolled through that spot with ease. Well done FSB!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #388
I didn't take a picture of it, but I fit 61 average sized tires into the Bronco and 4x8 utility trailer over the weekend, without piling them higher than standing reach. I almost wished I had a basket on the roof rack to accommodate a few more... Consider this a PSA, in case you ever find yourself wondering if you can pull it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #389
I alluded to this project here and finally have some progress to show. The F-series 40/20/40 seats have long been one of my top wish list items, but I'm not keen on giving up the center console storage, as limited as it may be. The "20" jump seat has so little storage in the seat back, I haven't been sold on its worth. But, I found a ratty, busted up set at the junkyard awhile back and figured I could get the jump seat base for next to nothing (ended up being $5-10), whereas carrying out a full seat in rough shape would have pushed it out of impulse project territory.

The next step was finding a factory or aftermarket jump seat worth building onto the base. This product was my main inspiration:

15" Universal Center Console Style 1 ? Cerullo Seats

but $550 for still pretty limited storage is a big pill to swallow. I ended up taking the center jump seat from an '01 GMC Sierra. It has a huge storage space in the seat back, the cup holders are built into the base so they are usable in either configuration, the cup holders are more useful than the Ford center console ones, the width is just about perfect, the seat belt is incorporated, and it feels pretty solidly built. Plus, they appear to have been used in several vehicles (I saw another in a Yukon or Tahoe), meaning replacement parts won't be hard to come by.

I basically had to pry the whole Sierra apart to get the thing out of there! With no power to the seats, I could only access 3 of 4 bolts on one side and 2 of 4 on the other (driver's door was too smashed in to open). To make matters worse, the jump seat's base is on 2" pegs shared with the main seats, so it was quite a wrestling match to twist everything free. I figured I wouldn't be using the mangled feet, anyway.



2001 GMC Sierra jump seat, cushion removed to begin deconstruction.



The Sierra seat sits up quite high, in addition to having a very thick (4.75" @ back, 6.5" @ front) cushion ... loads of room to build a storage space underneath.



Deconstructed jump seat matched with the F-series 40/20/40 base plate.



Not enough room to keep the driver's seat armrest, but the folded-down jump seat has padded edges to fill that role, assuming it doesn't end up sitting too high. Also, the jump seat's base had to be narrowed for seat belt clearance.

I went back the next week to look at the F-series donor to see if the jump seat's pan could be used, but of course the truck was already gone. So, I picked up more project materials and made my own.



Rear upright welded to the new c-channel base. The F-series 40/20/40 bracket doesn't have the 4 mounting holes square, so I had to make some compromises in how to line the holes up without resorting to lots of cross bracing. A storage cubby will be added in back. The c-channel side pieces couldn't be extended back further or they would interfere with the seat belts.



Front upright welded on, maintaining the Sierra's front-to-back distance and slope.



Bolted in temporarily, while deciding what to do next... The plan is to build a much thinner cushion, raised up 3" or so, maximizing the storage space below. That means settling on a raised structure, coming up with a hinged seat cushion system, and adding sheet metal paneling.

Full-size pics: https://www.supermotors.net/registry/28006/88134
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #390
Here's a much better picture of the installed shell, not drenched in sunlight:



And a mock-up of the rear storage extension:



I was surprised to see that that fits the front section below the cup holders perfectly, so I duplicated it to weld up there, as well.

The thing is so rock solid now, even without bracing added back in high up for the front and rear uprights, I can literally rock the Bronco without the seat structure budging in the slightest. I'm thinking I may cut out the round crossbar (it forms the rearmost support of the seat foam in original use, indicating how high up the cushion sits) and seat pan below it, and build that support into the new structure for more seat placement, and storage access, flexibility. Still trying to get the creative side of my mind in gear...

Also, the compressor hose fits in nicely, which is what I was hoping would come of the space.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #391


Front tray clearance.



Rear tray clearance.



Stupid thick stock foam.



Mocking up the upper frame that'll support the seat base.



Nearing completion ... just need to clean up the upper frame's welds, remove the round tube, add an outer skin, and build the hinged seat cushion.

I stood on it and it's rock solid, so I don't think I'll need to add any more vertical bracing to what's left of the GM uprights. I'm thinking sheet metal for the skin, but may try ABS. A piano hinge will go on the rear cross brace. Barring any complications with execution, I think that'll work pretty well with seat back clearance, once the round tube is removed and replaced with a thin angle or square tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #392
Before taking the Bronco out for my weekly JY trip, I decided to install the not-yet-skinned seat/console and finally mount the seat back. It's not the easiest thing to get on and off, so I had yet to put it back on after the original tear-down. I only lined it up by hand when deciding where I wanted to place the base relative to the main seats...what could go wrong?



Rear cross-brace tubing removed for hinged seat base clearance, new brace added further back with repurposed original front-to-back brace.



I had some long pieces of cutting board material that happened to be the exact 11.75" width between the uprights!



Storage area not skinned yet, but the seat back is installed finally, after holding my breath that everything would line up the way I wanted from rough measurements at the start of cutting and welding. An old office chair memory foam cushion worked well for trying it out, but I'll need to source something a couple inches longer and narrower.



Reverse angle view of the alignment of the three seat backs.



Seat back folded down...a little higher than ideal as an elbow rest, but plenty comfortable. Nice sized storage tray on top in that configuration.



Lots of storage in the seat back. It can only open when in the horizontal position, so minimal concern of dumping stuff out the back when upright.

I'm happy to report, it's extremely stable and comfortable to sit in. A 2.5" memory foam cushion feels like it'll be plenty.

Also, on today's JY trip I brought home try #3 at a working 3G alternator. The first was from a '93 Bronco and only produced 2-3V. The second was from a '94 or '95 Mazda B4000 (Ranger equivalent) and wasn't quite good enough at 11.65V. Today's find came from a '93 Ranger, which should be 2G, but it had a MAF setup and was probably an engine swap. It tested out healthy at 15.60V (14.8 to 16.5 target range), despite the brushes and slip rings not having a ton of life left. Go figure, the Motorcraft one is perfect while the two no-names are junk... All three were 95A units. I've yet to find a 130A in the side mount style. But, I've got the cabling and '93 bracket ready to go now that I have a working one. I can always upgrade to the 130A later if I need more juice for winching the trailer and tow dolly up/down the hill. I loaned the dolly to a friend last week and it was a struggle to maneuver them with two people, so enough with trying to do so single-handedly with just a hand winch!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
732 Posts
The jump seat looks awesome man. Good work.

Just out of curiosity, why do you want to go with the side mount alt bracket rather than the earlier style? I haven’t tried a side mount setup but the older style works perfect if you delete the smog pump, plus you can grab a 3g off any old Taurus in the junkyard (plus I think the parts store would be more likely to have a Taurus alt if you are broke down somewhere). It looks to me like you might have troubles if you try delete the smog pump later on and don’t have a bypass pulley.

You probably answered that question before but I don’t remember it. :toothless
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #394
Thanks! It's always nice when the biggest project of the type you've tackled ends up exceeding expectations. I found some good options for memory foam in the 2"-2.5"-3" range, already the desired 18" long so not major reshaping needed.

I actually planned on going with the pivot mount 3G originally, but never found any donors other than some very sketchy looking Mustang ones. All the Windstar/Taurus/etc alternators were long gone. I didn't realize what I was looking at at first on the '93 Bronco, but checked my notes and figured out it was the 95A unit with the new style bracket and tensioner. My thinking was, the side mount style and corresponding alternators are designed for the Bronco layout, so there's no re-clocking necessary (some people say that's no big deal, others seem to have had problems) and the harness fits perfect without modifications unless stepping up to 130A. (The Ranger that the alternator came out of had the same wiring setup but even longer -- Expedition examples I've found are too short and don't have the fusible link in them, as that was apparently a separate mega fuse holder in front of the starter solenoid on some setups -- and I considered wiring the two charge cables together for a simple upgrade path, but I would need to cut it shorter first and redo the ring terminal.) There's also no need to grind the bracket to accept the large case pivot mount, but again, that sounds pretty minor.

I also figured, the newer style ('93-96) tensioner bracket is either an improvement or a cost cutting measure, so might as well gamble on door #1... The old tensioner places a little more wrap on the A/C pulley, while the new tensioner puts a lot more wrap on the alternator pulley. The former is probably good for the shake-prone York, while the latter is a bigger "greater good" for getting full amperage out of the alternator.

Plenty of Explorers and Rangers use the side mount, so there's bound to be one available on the shelves if needed. Plus, I like the aesthetics of how simple the side mount is to remove/install. If I end up buying a lifetime warranty parts store 130A, that will be a major benefit, given their sketchy reputations!

Most recently, I didn't have a need to use a bypass pulley with the smog pump eliminated. If anything, it's better with no pulley there, as that creates more belt wrap on the alternator and crank. I got lucky in that the stock belt fit perfect when adding in the York, being a bigger pulley and offset further. That took up the slack of the gutted smog pump I had left in previously.

I installed the bracket and alternator yesterday, but ran into an unexpected problem with my '92 accessory bracket bolts being too short for the '93 setup. I had left the rusty old bolts behind with the '93 donor, never considering that the "new" bracket has 5/8" thicker bosses. Off to the hardware store mid-project... Then came the challenge of fitting a belt to the new setup, which wouldn't have been necessary if sticking with pivot mount! My 91.8" belt ended up being replaced by a 94.5" one Duralast 945K6 6PK2400 = 2400mm). I spent ~$450 on belts, and on the third trip basically just grabbed one of everything. No one at AutoZone knew how the belt sizing works (the 95" they gave me the first time measured 99.25"), and I didn't realize until laying out all the options at home that the second part number contains the length in mm. Edit: Err, the first part is also the length in inches ... 945 = 94.5", not just the second two numbers like they were saying. I should have caught that.

I had noticed this a couple weeks ago when toying with a +12V stud to remove some of my lighting accessories off the starter solenoid:



I figured it was most likely the alternator, as the fusible link ran that direction. (With the harness clipped to the fender liner, you can't tug on one end and see which wire moves at the other.) There's a separate 2-wire fusible link also on the stud that appears to go into the bundle toward the headlight, so I wasn't 100% positive which was which. I taped and wrapped it as best I could in those tight quarters. With everything out of the way, my hunch was correct that it was the alternator charge cable. Glad to have that fire hazard removed!

While I had the battery and tray out to access the alternator wiring (it would take more time to remove the compressor tank), I crossed two more items off the to-do list, replacing the peeling chrome (just along the top edge) headlight bezel and super rusty battery tray. Getting the old headlight bezel off was made more challenging by both studs spinning freely in the plastic.





I was going to pick up sheet metal to finish up the jump seat console, but the Bronco was down the past 2 days while doing the alternator stuff...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #395


3G alternator upgrade. So-so comparison of the different tensioner position of the '93+ bracket (left) and '92 bracket (right; belt removed before the picture...comes up under the plastic pulley, around the alternator, and down to the smog pump/crank). The idler pulley sits higher on the '93+ style than does the tensioner (no idler) on the '92 style, so there's a little less belt wrap over at the A/C pulley. However, the '93+ style moves the tensioner down below which creates way more wrap on the alternator pulley.

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1149145
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #396
The F-Bomb is now rocking a set of @flomaster custom steps/sliders:



The dimensions and craftsmanship are every bit as excellent as you would expect from the photos. I opted for the exact same steps as the prototype, as I wouldn't have changed a thing if I designed them myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #397
I finally joined the big boy club and got a winch. I was going to get an Engo SR10S, but settled rather last minute on the Smittybilt X20 (synthetic, 10k lb) once factoring in it includes the wireless remote (and wired), rock sheath, and is IP68 vs IP67, at basically the same price. Both are regarded pretty similarly in reviews, with performance and customer support (and parts availability) being solid, with the only negative being the widespread concern over Chinese stuff.



Smittybilt X2O, mounted on a hitch cradle.



Quick disconnect (tucked out of view) wiring pigtail added at battery.

I need to come up with better battery terminals with extra studs or something, but that setup works okay for the time being.



12' quick disconnect extension to run from battery to winch when on rear hitch (front hitch planned).

I've only run it to spool the rope so far. I picked up extra rigging gear to be able to use it to pull the trailers up the hill without straight shot access. That was a big part of why the wireless included with the Smitty won out, allowing me to direct the trailer before getting in wired range.



Finally found a transfer case skid plate (top) to replace my mangled one (bottom) that's been off the Bronco since I bought it. Unfortunately, it came from a brick nose and Ford simply trimmed the front lip for Aeros to clear the transmission mount cross member.



Trimmed the front lip of the brick nose skid plate clear the cross member.



Test fit of the modified brick nose skid plate. Will work fine as is, but some protection of the backside of the transfer case would be nice, as well as keeping this one from being bent by whatever attacked my original one...



Much better! I used the 3.5" strip I cut off the front, and massaged it not so gently to fill the vulnerable space in the rear.



Modified brick nose skid plate mounted up, with a quick and dirty paint job.



Modified brick nose skid plate mounted up. It's basically flush with the back edge of the transfer case.

BTW, does anyone know what that big peg at the top left is for? I wouldn't mind cutting that (and the other side's) off before impaling my head on it again, if it serves no purpose!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #399
They are alignment pins from the assembly line. You can remove them :thumbup
Awesome, thanks. Alignment pins was my initial guess, but I couldn't figure out what they would be aligning as situated. Assembly line alignment makes more sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Discussion Starter #400
The jump seat console is finally done, after procrastinating for a few weeks on finish work. I got so stuck in the train of thought of metalwork, I realized after massive struggling with welding the sheet metal bottom on, I should have just used construction adhesive... Way less work, a much cleaner look, and no gravity to fight to get it to stay put. Oh well.



Started working on the sheet metal skin.



The sides are going to be complicated.



I reused the GMC foam and seat cover, modifying the cover's closure method now that half the foam's height is cut away, plus the original underside bars it clipped to are replaced by the cutting board base.



22 ga sheet metal is cut and welded up (by far the worst step of the project), and painting is underway.



Skinned and painted.



Combination of welded seams and tacked inner edges on the sheet metal. It proved difficult to get to stick without burning through. Even putting the heat on the 1/8" metal, I'd get burn marks showing on the back side of the sheet metal and they'd still just pull apart with no resistance...



Finally back together!



Installed. The sheet metal was so messy to work with, I scrapped the original idea of framing up the front & rear storage cubbies an inch or two, instead just using the angle iron to keep small stuff in place.



Installed.
 
381 - 400 of 414 Posts
Top