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'92 Custom, '95 MAF 5.0
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Discussion Starter #61
interesting choice. my Dad took his rear seat out of his '78 so long ago, we don't even know where to find it anymore.
I've got a '92 seat for free if he wants one. :) I'm guessing it wouldn't fit that generation, though. It's a "custom" black over tan...

Those bolts were a serious workout to remove. Happily, none of them snapped. I went slow, used liberal amounts of PB Blaster, and occasional heat.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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appreciate the offer... but he wouldn't want one anymore, anyway. ;)
love me some PB Blaster. I've also used the can of freeze on a torch heated piece and had success when other attempts failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
My engine removal helper was a no-show today, so not much of note got done.



Looking spiffy with the blacked out grill.


While doing more cleaning under the truck, removing the mangled skid plate, loosening header bolts, searching for leak origins, etc., I noticed something odd about the rear leaf springs:



Is that stock or do I have a suspension lift? A brief search didn't turn up any photos that look like that.


I also snapped a couple pics of the underside of the cargo area, to get an idea of where the hidden compartment cutout would go. It's basically a wide-open empty space that would require building a new floor.



Looking forward over the rear diff.
 

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Really clean rig! First off, you are missing half of the bronco snorkel, the other half of it is flat and attaches to the top of the radiator support, that way it is somewhat protected by the hood. If you use the one that goes in behind the grill, you will most likely pull water into the engine just driving during a downpour.

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #66
If youre referring to the block under the leaf springs, yes that's OEM. Springs look stock too.
Yes, that's what I was referring to, and thanks for the confirmation. You would be the authority on what stuff should look like under the truck, given that yours is on its side. :)

Really clean rig! First off, you are missing half of the bronco snorkel, the other half of it is flat and attaches to the top of the radiator support, that way it is somewhat protected by the hood. If you use the one that goes in behind the grill, you will most likely pull water into the engine just driving during a downpour.
I think you mean I'm missing the other half that connects to the air box? The half that connects above the radiator is the piece that is still there in the picture. I removed the back half so I could pop the F-250 snorkel in in its place, leaving the front half in place to get a visual of how an add-on hose can be routed for the dual inlets.

I'm not too worried about rain with the lower snorkel. Its opening curves away from the grill to address that concern. I can't imagine the engineers wouldn't have tested for that. I could always add a few drain holes in the air box, directed away from the engine heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #67


One ghetto paint job later!

Next up is sanding down the bondo that was used to plug the service light holes and spray it white.


 

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Discussion Starter #68
I figured out the dome light mystery! After painting the hardtop, I noticed that only one (right) of the center brake light's cargo lights came on with the passenger door open. I had always assumed those were reversing lights and never bothered to check if they worked, since I haven't really driven the truck yet.

It seemed unlikely that only the light corresponding to that side's door would turn on, but I checked the driver's door anyway and no surprise, the left light remained unlit. So, I pulled the light assembly out and found the three light buckets full of water, with two of the bulbs basically being dissolved. (Did the light assemblies really come with nothing covering the bulbs on top? I've only found pictures of the bottom.) I cleaned it up and put LEDs in the cargo slots, then put it back together.

With that done, I turned my attention back to the driver's door, as the cargo lights came on the first time I tested it upon reassembly. It was short lived, but I noticed I could get them and the dome light working pretty consistently by fiddling with the plunger. I thought maybe the replacement plunger was sketchy, so I put the original one back on and it didn't work at all. Back to the replacement plunger...

I cleaned the pins up as good as I could and filled them with dielectric grease. That got it working a bit better, but still hit or miss. I then worked on cleaning out the plunger itself. It doesn't appear possible to open it up, but when pressed in partially, you can fit the straw of the QD Electronics Cleaner in each of the 4 corner slots. I did that a couple dozen times, shaking out dirt and grime, and getting the lights to work more and more reliably. I finally reached a point where the lights came on every time.

So, if you've got door/dome light issues, the things to check are:

a) rotted wiring at the plunger's connector.
b) corrosion on the terminals.
c) crudded up contacts within the plunger.

Chances are, if you've got one symptom, you've got all three.

I have no clue... but I'm interested in the outcome. my new2me '95 has similar behavior at the dome an partial disassembly has revealed a few lights that got way too hot, which I'll be replacing soon. :popc1:
I got the 16-LED bulbs for the Mustang dome/map light and went out tonight to see how bright they are. To my surprise, the driver's door triggered the dome light. It only worked once, however, then flickered when I pressed the plunger after that.

So, my wiring fix and the general circuit are good. There must be a near-break somewhere in the wire, beyond the portion I patched.
 

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I might shy away from that if it were already running and I didn't want unnecessary worry, but since I'm trying to get it running, I look at all such knowledge as another weapon to take into battle!

All my tune-up parts -- everything but the spark plug wires which won't arrive till Monday -- are coming in today, hopefully before dark. The throttle body is sparkly clean, the IAC cleaned up, the PCV valve tested and cleaned, and a few more hoses replaced. I'm dying to know if it'll run now with all that...

I called the Copart lot again this morning about the title.

3/13, the lady told me the title was there and she was putting in the mail.

3/20, the guy had to search for my info for 20 minutes, then said he would call me back, which he never did.

3/22, different guy instantly knows who I am by phone number, and when I confirm my name, he says immediately that the title is there. He then says, "it will be $10 to mail it out, is that okay?" I tell him no...I paid to have the truck delivered and am just now being told two weeks later that there's a fee to mail the title, with no mention that I wouldn't get it initially? He hesitates for a bit and then says he'll go ahead and mail it out. I assume they're just disorganized and not running a small scam. If it wasn't such a big entity, I'd be getting fairly nervous.
Did you ever get your title?

I am impressed by the headway you're making in such a short period of time, and knowledge of what you're doing!
 

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Discussion Starter #72
sounds about par for the course. thanks for thinking of us though. :thumbup
Well, I'm pretty sure the plunger is the remaining problem, not other elements of the wiring as previously assumed, so cleaning and fiddling with it is the likely answer for other people with the same issue. Anyone have a parts diagram that would show the part number? It would be a nice thing to pick up a new one of.

Did you ever get your title?
Yeah, I got it last Fri and registered it Mon. I actually got a call this week from the general manager of the lot, apologizing for the way things were handled. I had received a survey invite after the third phone call, while waiting to see if they would finally mail the title this time, and didn't have the most positive of things to say about the transaction...

I am impressed by the headway you're making in such a short period of time, and knowledge of what you're doing!
Fake it till you make it! :) Trucks are totally new to me. I owe most of my knowledge to online resources such as this place.
 

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Just read through the thread- good work so far! You sure don't sound like you're new to this. Thanks for documenting all that you find- makes it easier for us to troubleshoot in the future!

Biggest take-away- I had no idea that the tailgate was supposed to use a different key! I've been hunting for a matching set of 3 forever. My BKO has the tgate and drivers door on the same key, but I have no idea where the key is to the passenger door.

It's interesting to see how your purchase turned out. I hadn't heard of Copart, but I had looked over Dashub a few times and have always wondered what buying from them might look like. Someday when my project is finished I might have to save a little bit and see what I can find!

I added the under-floor storage compartment you guys mentioned earlier- it was pretty easy. The way I did it was similar to the write-up; cut out a door from the sloped panel, make a box and then attach it (I bolted it in) to the underside of the bed. It was pretty easy and turned out fine despite my very poor fabrication skills/equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Just read through the thread- good work so far! You sure don't sound like you're new to this.
Thanks, my cover is intact! :)

Biggest take-away- I had no idea that the tailgate was supposed to use a different key! I've been hunting for a matching set of 3 forever. My BKO has the tgate and drivers door on the same key, but I have no idea where the key is to the passenger door.
Really, you have a matching door/tailgate key? That's confusing... Maybe '79s were different? The door locks are super easy to remove, with just a metal clip that slides out of the door jamb portion, then some wiggling to get the lock cylinder off the actuator rod. You can probably get a locksmith to re-key it for you to match the others.

I hadn't heard of Copart, but I had looked over Dashub a few times and have always wondered what buying from them might look like.
I'm not familiar with Dashub. IAAI is the other one I looked at, but I wasn't crazy about their setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Another driver's door plunger update. I found two of them at the junkyard, one being like the stock cross-bar plunger (left) and the other being a round plunger (right), but with the same connector.



Since I've already determined that my stock one is dead and the replacement of the same style isn't terribly reliable, I figured I'd try the round style first. It worked the first time and every time! Ironically, it wasn't even plugged in to anything in the truck I found it in. It was screwed in place but disconnected in back. It was a F-series, but I don't recall the year and model. The round style is probably less likely to allow gunk in, having no open slots at the corners.

I also found a couple of the late '90s plastic vacuum reservoirs:



My coffee can has no rust or leaks, but the newer plastic ones seem like a better idea. Ford must have switched to very inferior grade bolts for the plastic reservoirs, however. All but one of the bolts on the two reservoirs sheared off while removing the nuts in the wheel wells. (The plastic reservoirs have a 3rd mounting point, visible at the bottom right.) I'll have to find some t-bolts of the right size for the slots before I can lock it in place.
 

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Biggest take-away- I had no idea that the tailgate was supposed to use a different key! I've been hunting for a matching set of 3 forever. My BKO has the tgate and drivers door on the same key, but I have no idea where the key is to the passenger door.
Really, you have a matching door/tailgate key? That's confusing... Maybe '79s were different? The door locks are super easy to remove, with just a metal clip that slides out of the door jamb portion, then some wiggling to get the lock cylinder off the actuator rod. You can probably get a locksmith to re-key it for you to match the others.
just fyi, my 87 has a matching driver/passenger/tailgate key, so i have 1 key for all 3 outside locks and 1 key for the ignition. my understanding is that from the factory they came this way, 2 different keys total. this is backed up by the fact that all 3 outside locks use the same key blank (while the ignition key uses a different one), meaning that it is possible to use the same key on all 3 outside locks. if you want to get a matching set for all 3, i would suggest starting with a new set of door locks and good functioning tailgate lock then get a locksmith to rekey the tailgate to the doors.

sorry for the hijack, i had meant to post this when @fodder originally asked about the keys but i got distracted and forgot.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
No hijack, added info is always good. :)

That's straight up bizarre, though. Why would they have gone with a different door and ignition key? The '92-96 models I've seen (only a small handful) all use the same key for both. Which is doubly bizarre that the owner's manual refers to the two keys, one for doors/ignition and the other for tailgate/glove box. It's like they didn't want to change the documentation of multiple keys, but realized the old way made no sense...

That or your truck has been re-keyed at some point? I picked up a spare '86 door lock last week that I could check against to see if its key way is reversed from mine...but I can't remember where I put it. A smart move would have been storing it with my old lock set. :/
 

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My 88 and both 86s,along with every foxbody stang if I remember right had 2 keys. The blank notches are opposite for inside vs outside keys. I've gotten used to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
My 88 and both 86s,along with every foxbody stang if I remember right had 2 keys. The blank notches are opposite for inside vs outside keys. I've gotten used to it.
Good thing my first Ford was a '90s model. That would have driven me nuts. More so the lack of logic to it than the actual need to switch keys for entry and starting.
 

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not exactly sure what the logic behind it was but one cool thing is that you can use a hide-a-key on the outside of the vehicle and not have to worry about someone driving off with your bronco. another cool thing is you can come outside on a cold morning and crank up the truck to warm it up then lock it.

im not really sure what to make of what you found in your owners manual, but i'd like to think that on 80-91 models, ford designed them to only use 2 keys. they HAVE to have a different key for the doors/tailgate(same key blank for glove box too? i havent checked this) and the ignition switch (as greasemonger pointed out, they use different key blanks) but i hope they werent dumb enough to use 3 keys, one for ignition, one for doors, and one for the tailgate.

while typing up this post i realized something that may explain why ford used a different key for the tailgate/glove box for 92+ broncos. fodder, you said your bronco uses the same key for the ignition switch and the doors, right? well, on mine and greasmonger's broncos, thats not possible because they keyway is reversed between the ignition and the doors. what it sounds like ford did is they redesigned the door locks for the 92+ broncos and f-series to use the same key for both. my guess is that because the bronco was the only vehicle that would be using the tailgate lock, and since it was so unique of a design, ford didnt want to waste the time redesigning the tailgate lock, so they just reused the old design and gave the customers 2 keys, one for the doors/ignition and one for the tailgate/glove box. i found a parts listing on rock auto that confirms that the 92 broncos use a lock cylinder where the keyway is reversed of the 91 lock cylinder. but since no one sells a replacement bronco tailgate key cylinder, i cant check to see if the 92+ tailgate key cylinders use the same key as the older ones do.

sometimes i can be a little bit dense, i feel like it shouldnt have taken me this long to reach this conclusion. now, another question this brings up is can you retrofit 92+ door locks onto the 87-91's? the reason i ask is because that would mean us 87-91'ers could have the same key for both the doors and the ignition then. i dont think the ignition cylinder from a 92+ will work (different steering columns) but the door lock appears to have the same keyway shape as the ignition key on a 87-91. maybe one day ill look into this but for now i have bigger fish to fry on my bronco. anyways, hopefully this provided you with some pertinent information.

keep up the good work with your bronco!
 
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