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Discussion Starter #81
not exactly sure what the logic behind it was but one cool thing is that you can use a hide-a-key on the outside of the vehicle and not have to worry about someone driving off with your bronco. another cool thing is you can come outside on a cold morning and crank up the truck to warm it up then lock it.
I hadn't considered either of those angles.

1) Wouldn't you still have to hide the ignition key somewhere inside? Otherwise, you're still carrying one key and accomplishing nothing over any other vehicle. And if you do hide the ignition key, then that's nothing the '92+ Broncos couldn't do by hiding the ignition key inside and carrying the tailgate key.

2) You've got me there! '92+ would have to use a spare key to get back in, which would then mean they're carrying two door keys and increasing the likelihood of losing the spare.

I mentioned earlier, I did find a brand new (still had the cutting service label on it; Ace Hardware, I think) door/ignition key tucked away in the cargo area. I wonder if that's what a PO was doing with my truck? Then again, the tailgate lock seems to have been removed long ago, so probably not.

while typing up this post i realized something that may explain why ford used a different key for the tailgate/glove box for 92+ broncos. fodder, you said your bronco uses the same key for the ignition switch and the doors, right?
Correct. Ditto for the '94 parts car I got a matching set off of, to replace the broken collar on my ignition cylinder.

well, on mine and greasmonger's broncos, thats not possible because they keyway is reversed between the ignition and the doors.
That adds up, as the '86 tailgate lock I picked up was reversed from my ignition/door locks, so the reversed tailgate lock would fit your door locks.

what it sounds like ford did is they redesigned the door locks for the 92+ broncos and f-series to use the same key for both. my guess is that because the bronco was the only vehicle that would be using the tailgate lock, and since it was so unique of a design, ford didnt want to waste the time redesigning the tailgate lock, so they just reused the old design and gave the customers 2 keys, one for the doors/ignition and one for the tailgate/glove box.
I can buy that. More efficient parts bin pricing.

i found a parts listing on rock auto that confirms that the 92 broncos use a lock cylinder where the keyway is reversed of the 91 lock cylinder.
That sounds conclusive!

sometimes i can be a little bit dense, i feel like it shouldnt have taken me this long to reach this conclusion.
Ha, I often post stream-of-thought while figuring stuff out, too.

now, another question this brings up is can you retrofit 92+ door locks onto the 87-91's?
I would say yes with 80% certainty. The assembly seemed just like my '92 locks, with the same side clips and actuator rod attachment. If I can find where I put that '86 spare, I'll be able to compare against my original '92 locks and give a more definitive answer.

maybe one day ill look into this but for now i have bigger fish to fry on my bronco.
Like me, dealing with smaller stuff while figuring out how the hell to address the engine puking up its guts when I add coolant... That has proven quite daunting.
 

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1) Wouldn't you still have to hide the ignition key somewhere inside? Otherwise, you're still carrying one key and accomplishing nothing over any other vehicle. And if you do hide the ignition key, then that's nothing the '92+ Broncos couldn't do by hiding the ignition key inside and carrying the tailgate key.
My thought here is you would only need the spare key if you locked your keys inside the bronco. If you lost your primary keys while away from your spare set, you're screwed. Also, if any thieves found the hide-a-key they couldn't drive off in your bronco. But I can see advantages to both sides, and would probably rather have 1 key for both doors and ignition.

Hope you get that coolant leak sorted out. Have you had any more luck in figuring out where it's coming from at least?
 

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Discussion Starter #83
It seems to be coming from within the bellhousing, more on the side of the starter. I'm thinking about pulling the intake manifold to see if I can spot anything from above...and do a bit more cleaning while I'm at it. That's why I was starting to look into 4-hole fuel injector upgrades, as something to do in conjunction.

I just posted a call for help in the regional forum. Let's hope there's some experienced wrenchers in the area! I talked to a recommended automotive machine shop yesterday (dude clearly knows the 302, giving me tons of rebuild options covering the whole spectrum of uses) and he agreed that the rear freeze plug is a strong candidate, but also that a cracked block/head or blown head gasket can't be ruled out. There's apparently a spot on the back of the block that is prone to cracking. Some small ridge on the driver's side, I believe he said.
 

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I just posted a call for help in the regional forum. Let's hope there's some experienced wrenchers in the area! I talked to a recommended automotive machine shop yesterday (dude clearly knows the 302, giving me tons of rebuild options covering the whole spectrum of uses) and he agreed that the rear freeze plug is a strong candidate, but also that a cracked block/head or blown head gasket can't be ruled out. There's apparently a spot on the back of the block that is prone to cracking. Some small ridge on the driver's side, I believe he said.
Does not sound like fun... hope it's just a freeze plug or gasket somewhere!

Didn't mean to start that giant key discussion hijack! I'm planning on having my driver's door rekeyed to match the others. I would do it myself, but I can't for the life of me find a set of pins that fits. Easy to find rekey kits for home locks, but not so much for autos.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Does not sound like fun... hope it's just a freeze plug or gasket somewhere!
It reeeeeaaaaaaaalllllly doesn't. But, it's probably a right of passage for being a real car guy. The truck seems like it wants to Run & Drive if given the chance, so I'm hopeful that all will be good once it overcomes its tiny bladder issue.

I finally found someone on ebay a few days ago selling just the tailgate catch for the tire carrier -- I had to make my search much less specific -- but it's on the super slow 2-wk boat from the east coast.

The rear wheel center caps are installed now, cleaning up the appearance nicely:



I used some SS oval head bolts that don't quite fill out the large diameter tapered seat, but you'd have to look close to notice. I had to drop down from 3/4" to 1/2" to keep them from bottoming out on the hub. I guess the fronts can get away with longer bolts. That's probably why the PO left the rear caps sitting in the truck.

I picked up a minivan cargo light a while back, I believe from a Windstar. The wiring is the same as the Bronco's, but with a slightly different connector. So, I hacked up the '95 cargo light that had the garbage switch and made an adapter harness out of it:



The slider switch doesn't bind up like the Bronco's toggle switch, but it isn't without its own issues... 1) It's finicky in the middle, not turning on at the normal resting spot (has to be slightly off center, but it holds okay there). 2) Only the middle position (door open) works. The slider isn't labeled, but one of the outer positions should be always on. I'll have to probe the wires and figure out if that's a problem with the light or my wiring. At least now I know I have a workable interior light back there.

I also got some new t-bolts and got the plastic vacuum reservoir installed.
 

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my ignition and doors are the same, but the tailgate is the opposite like a trunk key would be. i hope to get a locksmith to key it to match the rest (or just make me a second key). i have enough keys on my key ring as it is, but really want to use my switch on the tailgate
 

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Two keys + 1

Good thing my first Ford was a '90s model. That would have driven me nuts. More so the lack of logic to it than the actual need to switch keys for entry and starting.
It struck me as odd as well, at first. Now I can switch keys (depending on what I'm doing in my truck) blindly. Only ever ONCE did I stick the wrong key in my ignition. NEVER DO THAT! I wasn't totally sober and tried to start my truck. Suffice to say, I've now replaced my ignition cylinder and linkage at separate times. On the upside of things, I now have a spare ignition key as the ig. cylinder came with two. Nice to see a fellow Oregonian (I'm a transplant) reviving an old O.D.F. Bronco. Where I grew up In Wallowa county I could see all three of the ones they had up the hill a l l the t I m e and I used to daydream about driving them around Imnaha. Then I bought a '94 from a dealer I worked for at the time before my relocation to Ca. It had two keys as well. I loved that truck. Nice build.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
my ignition and doors are the same, but the tailgate is the opposite like a trunk key would be. i hope to get a locksmith to key it to match the rest (or just make me a second key). i have enough keys on my key ring as it is, but really want to use my switch on the tailgate
Can they change the orientation of the key way? The locksmith I went to said it would have to be a separate key from my door/ignition one because of that.

I'm used to having just one key per car. My Bronco key chain now consists of keys for: ignition/door, tailgate, hitch pin, hitch coupler, and spare tire carrier. I should mount the Yak Rack just for one more key...

It struck me as odd as well, at first. Now I can switch keys (depending on what I'm doing in my truck) blindly. Only ever ONCE did I stick the wrong key in my ignition. NEVER DO THAT!
Did you force it in and mess up the cylinder? I wouldn't think it would go in easily.

On the upside of things, I now have a spare ignition key as the ig. cylinder came with two.
That was one of the nice things about switching to the new lock set, having two keys, and not needing to shell out the buck or two (ha!) to get a new one cut. Thank god for old key tech and not having to do $100 cuts. Of course, then I found the spare key hidden away, so it was a wash.

Nice to see a fellow Oregonian (I'm a transplant) reviving an old O.D.F. Bronco. Where I grew up In Wallowa county I could see all three of the ones they had up the hill a l l the t I m e and I used to daydream about driving them around Imnaha. Then I bought a '94 from a dealer I worked for at the time before my relocation to Ca. It had two keys as well. I loved that truck. Nice build.
I spent a couple years in Walla Walla, but never made it out to the Wallowa area. I've got a friend who visits there every summer, so maybe I'll have to join in one of these years and put the Bronco to proper use!
 

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Discussion Starter #89
I finally found where I put the spare '86 door lock...I didn't actually put it anywhere, I set it down while unloading stuff and forgot about it.

As suspected from the preceding discussion, it is the reversed key way of the '92-96 door locks. So yeah, from '91 to '92 the tailgate lock apparently stayed the same, while the door locks were changed to match the ignition.
 

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Yay Wallowa County, Oregon.

Can they change the orientation of the key way? The locksmith I went to said it would have to be a separate key from my door/ignition one because of that.

I'm used to having just one key per car. My Bronco key chain now consists of keys for: ignition/door, tailgate, hitch pin, hitch coupler, and spare tire carrier. I should mount the Yak Rack just for one more key...



Did you force it in and mess up the cylinder? I wouldn't think it would go in easily.

It does... ..or I was a drunk hulk. :doh0715::banghead

That was one of the nice things about switching to the new lock set, having two keys, and not needing to shell out the buck or two (ha!) to get a new one cut. Thank god for old key tech and not having to do $100 cuts. Of course, then I found the spare key hidden away, so it was a wash.

I work at a dealership (Honda) and A key works out to between $130.00 and $160.00, with taxes of course.

I spent a couple years in Walla Walla, but never made it out to the Wallowa area. I've got a friend who visits there every summer, so maybe I'll have to join in one of these years and put the Bronco to proper use!
Please make sure you do get out to Wallowa county, it is H E A V E N. I've suggested to @Pepe and others that they go to there. If we can still afford it my wife, kid, brothers, and I are supposed to head up there in July and go out to our 180 acres and cabin off Hwy 3. I loved being able to drive out of town and be on the trail in under 20 minutes. Now I have to drive between 1.5 and 3 hours to go anywhere worthwhile. There's a great brew pub in Enterprise called Terminal Gravity. Try a mix of "triple" and "golden"; you won't be disappointed. I'll be following your build as I've gotten several ideas from it. :beer Also, just remembered, as you drive out of La Grande toward Elgin and Imbler there are many dusty/gravelly back roads that cut through the valley alongside the main highway. The same can be said around and between Enterprise and Joseph.
 

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Can they change the orientation of the key way?
i don't know. i expect them to tell me they can't, but that doesn't mean i'm not going to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Please make sure you do get out to Wallowa county, it is H E A V E N. I've suggested to @Pepe and others that they go to there. If we can still afford it my wife, kid, brothers, and I are supposed to head up there in July and go out to our 180 acres and cabin off Hwy 3.
Sounds like you have enough space to host a Bronco meet and greet!

I've always driven sporty cars that view gravel roads as the enemy. It'll be a novel experience to go somewhere where I'm seeking them out instead of carving up the highway.

My K&N cone filter arrived today, but it turned out to be 3" I.D. instead of 3.5" I.D., so I can't start playing with a cold air box just yet.
 

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Sounds like you have enough space to host a Bronco meet and greet!

I've always driven sporty cars that view gravel roads as the enemy. It'll be a novel experience to go somewhere where I'm seeking them out instead of carving up the highway.

My K&N cone filter arrived today, but it turned out to be 3" I.D. instead of 3.5" I.D., so I can't start playing with a cold air box just yet.
We do. The only land adjacent to ours is Boise-Cascade all the way to hell's canyon.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
BTW, there's a slightly different air box used on some F-series trucks, and possibly the Bronco (I haven't seen an example), without the oil breather filter. As I recall, it has 3 bolts holding the box to the shared cage with the coolant/wiper reservoirs, instead of the 2 bolts on my style. It also uses a much more convenient clamp system to hold the lid on instead of bolts. The lid was missing from the one I looked at, but the clamps were on the bottom half of the box.

The reason for mentioning it is, at least on that one I looked at, the snorkel didn't narrow down at all entering the box. It stayed full size like the F-series snorkels that pull from alongside the radiator. I suspect this means all the F-series had a full size snorkel inlet, and Broncos got the bizarre restriction. So, if you want to keep the higher snorkel mount but lose the restriction, look for one of those F-series snorkels identified by the first paragraph.

You could probably also just dremel off the restriction. To be honest, the snorkel pulls from such a lousy little slot, I'm undecided if it's actually a restriction entering the box, or if it's the rest of the tube that's oversized.

Here's how ridiculous the stock snorkel's input to the air box is:



F-250 snorkel on top, Bronco snorkel on bottom. It's hard to believe those hook up to the same exact spot. It's almost like the Ford engineers were playing a joke on us, checking to see if anyone was paying attention.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
I pulled the upper intake manifold today, a) in preparation for the upgraded 4-hole fuel injectors that will arrive Monday, b) to see if having that out of the way would expose the coolant leak source, and c) to do more cleaning and check on the health of additional gaskets.

Still no go on finding the mouth of the Nile... It has to be coming from within the bellhousing.

The gasket between the upper and lower manifold was shot, having several pieces broken off. The EGR gasket didn't look great, either.
 

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If you need to get a better view of the back of the engine you can pull the carpet back and remove the transmission tunnel cover. It's kind of a pain but removing that cover can expose a lot. Just an idea that popped into my head. Sounds like you are having trouble trying to figure out where it's coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Thanks for the suggestion, but I already looked at that and it's well back of the leak. With the intake manifold removed, I can actually see the top of the tranny just fine. Everything's dry as can be on the top side. I'm all but certain it's coming from within the bellhousing. What a stupid place to put a freeze plug, whether or not that's what it turns out to be.

A neighbor stopped by while I was removing the fuel rail...he used to own an '85 Bronco and serviced logging vehicles. He pitched some pretty wild ideas including suspending the front end from one of my trees to help with dropping the tranny. Needless to say, I'm scared. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Finishing up the center console project had 'lazy Sunday' written all over it...



Center console foam insert for tow hitch, hitch pin & spare clips, coupler lock, and flashlight just for the hell of it.

I decided to center the hitch, which made it a tight squeeze for fitting in the safety chains alongside. They'll have to go somewhere else. Or...



I planned that as a tray to still set small things, but it might suffice as a spot for the chains.



Well, that's unfortunate... All that foam cutting is hard on the wrist!


I've got a mobile mechanic hopefully swinging by later today to take a look at my coolant leak and get his thoughts on pulling the engine or tranny to get at it. Fingers crossed.

I tried removing the lower intake manifold yesterday to do more cleaning and replace the lower gaskets, but I couldn't get the 4 outer (corner) bolts to budge, even with PB Blaster. It felt like they were going to snap if I forced them much more. I think someone either tightened them with an impact gun or used permanent loctite. The inner bolts were barely finger tight in comparison. That's something that will probably have to be revisited with a torch if and when the engine is out.

I was under the Bronco looking at recovery tow hook options and noticed some pretty thrashed looking body mounts on the frame horns up front:



Once I get the truck up and running, I'll definitely have to look into refreshing those all around.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Sorry, I didn't mean to ignore you. I just saw this post when looking back through the thread for something.

I have wondered about that, as the tire carrier feels like it would torque things quite a bit extended out, even if somehow bungeed to the lowered tailgate. If I need to haul anything that long and wide (i.e. that can't be pushing up between the seats for extra length), my two thoughts are:

1) Use a trailer.

2) Take the spare off the carrier and bungee it with minimal weight on the end.

I was wondering why my 88 has 2 sets of keys one key for doors/tailgate and one for the ignition. I guess I wont bother trying to figure out how to get it down to 1 key. I guess I could always just make it a push button to start.

also, I was going to install a tire carrier on mine, im making it daily driveable and unless I get a pick up, its also going to do all my hauling and somebod told me that if I planned to use it for hauling stuff where I might want to put the tailgate down, like a sheet of plywood, then I couldn't do that with the swing out tire carrier. and I got to looking at it and realized that it really would limit me on what I could do with the tailgate down. I don't know if anyone has any experience with this, but If its going to be used for hauling stuff where you might need to put the tailgate down, you might want to reconsider the swing out tire carrier.
 
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