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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed my Cruise control recall switch today. Took all of 5 minutes. easiest fix yet on the bronco.
I cant stress how important it is to get this done. The original RED switch can short out when fluid leaks thru and set your vehicle on fire and possibly burn your house down. It doesnt have to be on or running to do this either.

Here is an example of what can happen. This is a Bronco owner on the Facebook group. Some kids were outside playing, and saw his truck smoking. They went and knocked on his door to tell him. Fortunately he was home and caught it in time AND got video of it.

https://www.facebook.com/yourfavgui/videos/pcb.1515102535181168/10153733364778039/?type=3&theater

Here is a picture of another Bronco Owner who Did NOT catch his in time.


EVEN IF YOU HAVE HAD THE RECALL DONE WITH THE FUSED HARNESS WITH THE BLUE TAG! IF YOU STILL HAVE THE RED SWITCH REPLACE IT WITH THIS SWITCH. The fused harness was just a temporary fix until more of the new switches were available

If you still have the Red Brake Cruise Control cancel switch, this is the part number you need to replace it with.


Remove the old switch.


Lay it aside.


Get the new switch. Put a few drops of brake fluid in the threaded end of the switch. Work it in with something, I used a piece of wire, that will get the air out. keep adding fluid till the chamber is filled up. Add a few drops of fluid to the threaded port in the master cylinder to make sure you dont trap any air in between it and the switch. Then install it where the old one came out. Tighten it fairly tight, but not stupid tight.


Heres the harness.


One end plugs into the new switch, the other end plugs in to the original harness.


All Plugged in ready to go.


and done!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I have inspected my switch about monthly to make sure it wasnt leaking. I finally remembered to order the repair kit. Now that I am working again I can actually buy stuff again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Motorcraft Part# SW-6350 can be had on Ebay or Amazon for $15-$25 depending on how good you are at searching and price shopping. I wouldnt even bother taking it to the dealer even though they will do it for free. Its not worth the gas, and hassle, and the possibility they will screw something up while its in their shop. So unless you just dont work on vehicles (but then you wouldnt be on this site), do it yourself.
 

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Motorcraft Part# SW-6350 can be had on Ebay or Amazon for $15-$25 depending on how good you are at searching and price shopping. I wouldnt even bother taking it to the dealer even though they will do it for free. Its not worth the gas, and hassle, and the possibility they will screw something up while its in their shop. So unless you just dont work on vehicles (but then you wouldnt be on this site), do it yourself.
I would point out that there is a counterpoint to this - if you take it to the dealer and they screw up or the truck burns down anyway as a result, Ford will have to correct the problem or replace your truck and whatever it burned down. If you *don't* take it to the dealership and the truck has a brake fire anyway, you're on your own because Ford has fulfilled their public notification requirements and it's your own fault for not taking it in at this point.

Further, if you do the work yourself, the NHTSA and Ford database will never be updated and your vehicle will forever be marked as "RECALLS NOT PERFORMED" which not only can affect your resale, it can also screw you on insurance. If your truck burns down from other causes, but the recall was not performed at the dealership and the database so adjusted, it's very likely that your insurance company will try to weasel out of paying up by pointing to your truck's recall record.

As for hassle - it actually takes only about 15-30 minutes for them to perform the recall when the truck is presented to the tech. I had it done on my old 95 F-350 a couple years ago and it was a quick and easy affair. Unless you live in the middle of nowhere and the Ford dealership is more than 40 miles away, it's even worth the gas to go to the dealership and get it done there.
 

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Yo,
There is a seperate speed (aka cruise) control recall for 93 Broncos.
Original Recall from the NHTSA;
Model Year(s): 1993 Manufacturer's Report Date: February 18, 2008
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 08V051000 Component: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL:CRUISE CONTROL
Potential Number of Units Affected: 225,000 Summary: FORD IS RECALLING 225,000 MY 1992-2003 ECONOLINE, MY 1993-1995 TAURUS SHO, MY 1992-1998 CROWN VICTORIA, MY 1993 BRONCO, F-SERIES, MY 1995-1997 F-SERIES SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS, MY 1992-1998 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS, AND MY 1992-1995 LINCOLN TOWN CAR VEHICLES. THE AFFECTED VEHICLES WERE PREVIOUSLY REPAIRED USING A WIRING HARNESS THAT IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THE VEHICLE CIRCUIT POLARITY.
Consequence: AS A RESULT, THE FUSE IS LOCATED IN THE OUTPUT CIRCUIT RATHER THAN IN THE INTENDED INPUT POWER FEED CIRCUIT, AND MAY NOT OFFER THE INTENDED PROTECTION IN THE EVENT OF AN ELECTRICAL SHORT TO GROUND.
Remedy: DEALERS WILL INSTALL A NEW WIRING HARNESS, OR REPLACE THE MATING ELECTRICAL COMPONENT. THE RECALL BEGAN ON FEBRUARY 18, 2008. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-800-392-3673.

Notes: FORD RECALL NO. 08S01.CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
...

east302 provided following; "I found the recall information on alldata...didn't know it was even there so that's a plus.
Mine has the updated harness with two fuses instead of one, so it looks like the recall was addressed correctly.

BTW, here is the 93 Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) Location:
....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't even see a fuse in jowens harness?
According to the information I found about the recall, the fuse was only if you kept the original red switch. If you replace the switch with the black switch, you dont need the fused harness. That was my understanding. Steve83 has that in his supermotors somewhere.

Theres 2 pictures, one if your switch is leaking, and one if your switch is working properly.


As far as Insurance and coverage, and all goes, I self insure my bronco. All i have is liability. If I wreck it, I fix it. So I dont give a crap what the insurance company thinks, thats just me. I understand thats important to some people, but for me, i care not.

I dont take my truck to Ford for anything, I have had too many bad things happen at the ford dealer. No one works on my truck except me, and this one particular mechanic I use, and I stand there and watch him the entire time.
 

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uh-oh. I just checked some old pics of my new (2me) '95.
I knew it had been updated with the temp fix, but I didn't realize that was just a temp fix. :banghead
I've still got the red switch. Thanks for the heads up jowens! :beer

(don't mind the bundled up, flipped over and zip tied AC compressor in the pick, it was a temporary fix to get the rig home safe)

Wish I would have caught this before. It would have been at the top of my to-do list.
As much as I agree with Spktyr's reasons for going to the stealership, I do live over an hour away from any and will likely just order this part, do it myself and not sweat resale (because I plan to own this one until I'm dead) and insurance (because I only have minimum, broadform ins.)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yo J,
I would like to modify your thread's title to "93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair"

Or "94-96 Cruise Control Recall Repair"
Ok?
go for it Mr. Al
 

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Discussion Starter #9
One question regarding the swap...how difficult is it to get the old one out? Mine looks crusty and I don't want to snap the thing off in the master.
Its not difficult, I just put a 15mm regular wrench on it and it came right off. It didnt have any locktite or anything on it. The fitting is like a flare fitting seal, so you shouldnt need any tape or locktite.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is the post from Steve83 I mentioned earlier.

Note: To me, the simplest option here is to junk the red switch and go with labor Schedule E and replace the switch with the new switch and ditch the fused harness. Its less crap that can burn up, and its a much cleaner and simpler install.



SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH (SCDS) REPLACEMENT
NOTE: The brake pedal must not be depressed during the removal and replacement of the SCDS.

1. Check the brake fluid level at the master cylinder and, if necessary, fill to maximum fluid level. NOTICE: DO NOT apply fluid to the electrical connector or damage to the connector may occur. NOTICE: The 1994 Capri Brake Repair Kit contains a brass sealing washer. Install the brass washer onto the SCDS before installing it on the vehicle.
2. Add a few drops of Motorcraft High Performance DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid, PM1-1 or PM-1-C (US), CPM-1-C (Canada), to the fluid port at the threaded end of the new SCDS. NOTICE: Do not allow any foreign material to enter the master cylinder port once the SCDS is removed. NOTE: Call the Special Service Support Center for assistance if brake fluid does not flow from the SCDS fitting when the SCDS is removed. NOTE: If the new SCDS is not installed immediately after the original switch is removed, the master cylinder brake fluid could drop below the minimum level and air could enter the brake system. If this should occur, air must be bled from the brake system at all 4 wheels. In this situation, the labor to bleed the brake system will not be covered under this program.
3. Remove the SCDS.
4. With the brake fluid reservoir cap removed, observe for brake fluid dripping/draining from the SCDS fitting. As soon as brake fluid begins to bleed from the fitting, install the new SCDS.
5. Tighten the new SCDS as follows:
^ 18 Nm (159 lb-in) - all vehicles except 1994 Capri.
^ 13 Nm (115 lb-in) - 1994 Capri.
6. Check the brake fluid level at the master cylinder, fill to maximum fluid level and install the brake fluid reservoir cap.
7. Disconnect the speed control servo and inspect the vehicle harness connector for heat damage.
^ If no heat damage is found at the speed control servo connector (even if there is presence of brake fluid in the connector), proceed to the next step.
^ If the speed control servo connector is heat damaged, call the Special Service Support Center for further instructions.
8. With the speed control servo disconnected, use shop air only to blow the SCDS harness electrical connector and the servo connector dry of any trace of brake fluid. Do not use any type of solvent to clean the connectors.
9. Cut approximately 3 mm (1/8 in) off the grease tube applicator tip.
10. Before installing the jumper harness, fill the vehicle harness end of the jumper (male pin connector end) with Motorcraft Electrical Grease II XG-15-A.
11. Install the adapter jumper harness by connecting it to both the SCDS and the vehicle harness. Using the provided tie strap, secure the jumper harness to a nearby component such as the speed control cable or another wire harness. NOTICE: Be sure to apply and adequate amount of grease to the vehicle harness connector only. DO NOT apply the grease directly to the connector of the servo module.
12. Apply a 5 mm (3/16 in) high bead of Motorcraft Electrical Grease II XG-15-A across the entire width and length of the servo vehicle harness connector.
__________________________________________________
Field Service Action 05S28 Speed Control System Modification
Supplement #7 (THIS BULLETIN HAS BEEN REVISED SEVERAL TIMES, SO THE INFORMATION BELOW IS NOT CURRENT.)
Check the Ford website &/or the NHTSA to see if your VIN is affected.



Applies to certain vehicles equipped with speed control:
1994-1996 Bronco
1994-2002 F-150/250 (Under 8500 GVW)
1997- 2002 Expedition
1998-2002 Navigator
2002 Blackwood

OVERVIEW :
This program involves performing an inspection procedure to determine which repairs to the speed control system must be performed; either installation of a fused jumper harness or replacement of the speed control deactivation switch. A flow chart has been developed to direct you to the proper service actions.

NOTE: Disconnecting the battery is no longer required when performing these repairs.

INSPECTION - ALL AFFECTED VEHICLES
1. Disconnect the speed control deactivation switch located on the brake master cylinder and inspect the harness connector for the presence of brake fluid. See Figure 1.
a. If no brake fluid is present, install the fused jumper harness (Labor Operation D).
b. If brake fluid is present, disconnect the speed control servo and inspect the vehicle harness connector for heat damage. See Figure 2.
c. If no heat damage is found at the speed control servo connector (even if there is presence of brake fluid in the connector), proceed to Labor Operation E.
d. If the speed control servo connector is heat damaged, call the Special Service Support Center for further instructions.

LABOR OPERATION D - APPLIES TO VEHICLES WITH NON-LEAKING SWITCHES

1.a. Connect the fused jumper harness (14A411) to the speed control deactivation switch and the vehicle harness.
b. Position the harness alongside the existing harness, located below the master cylinder, so that the fuse holder is higher than the rest of the jumper harness. This will cause any water that enters the engine compartment and gets on the jumper harness to run downhill away from the fuse holder.
c. Secure the jumper to the existing harness with tie straps, making sure the fuse holder is positioned vertically with the cap facing upwards. Wrap the tie straps underneath, then over the top of the existing harness and verify proper fuse holder orientation.
2. Release the vehicle.

LABOR OPERATION E - APPLIES TO VEHICLES WITH LEAKING SWITCHES

1. Remove the speed control deactivation switch from the brake master cylinder. CAUTION: Do not allow any foreign material to enter the master cylinder port once the deactivation switch is removed.
2. Add a few drops of MotorCraft High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid, PM-1, to the fluid port at the threaded end of the new deactivation switch. CAUTION: DO NOT apply fluid to the electrical connector.
3. Install the new speed control deactivation switch into the master cylinder and tighten to 18 Nm (13 lb-ft).
4. With the speed control servo disconnected, use shop air only to blow the speed control deactivation switch harness electrical connector and the servo connector dry of any trace of brake fluid. DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SOLVENT TO CLEAN THE CONNECTORS.
5. Apply Ford Electrical Grease F8AZ-19G208-AA into each cavity of the vehicle harness connector only. It is not necessary to apply grease to the servo side of the connector.
6. Reconnect the servo connector.
7. Install the adapter jumper harness by connecting it to both the deactivation switch and the vehicle harness. Using the provided tie strap, secure the jumper harness to a nearby component such as the speed control cable or another wire harness.
8. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and adjust if necessary.
9. Release the vehicle.
 

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EVEN IF YOU HAVE HAD THE RECALL DONE WITH THE FUSED HARNESS WITH THE BLUE TAG! IF YOU STILL HAVE THE RED SWITCH REPLACE IT WITH THIS SWITCH. The fused harness was just a temporary fix until more of the new switches were available
I called my local ford dealer, and because the recall was done with the fused harness with the blue tag, it's in their system that the recall was already performed, and they won't replace it with the new harness.

Is that true? Are they supposed to just leave it? If I bring documentation in saying otherwise will they put in the new harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ford will leave it like that. Yes. Its nothing to worry about though. Just keep an eye on it, like every time you do an oil change. If you see any signs of leaking, change it out.
 

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I dont take my truck to Ford for anything, I have had too many bad things happen at the ford dealer. No one works on my truck except me, and this one particular mechanic I use, and I stand there and watch him the entire time.
This is exactly how I feel about my vehicles. I have seen cars go in for simple things and come out with blown head gaskets :O

Motorcraft Part# SW-6350 can be had on Ebay or Amazon for $15-$25 depending on how good you are at searching and price shopping. I wouldnt even bother taking it to the dealer even though they will do it for free. Its not worth the gas, and hassle, and the possibility they will screw something up while its in their shop. So unless you just dont work on vehicles (but then you wouldnt be on this site), do it yourself.
You have a very valid point. For what the parts cost it's not worth the risk of having the stealership create more problems than what you already have 0.02¢
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just saw and read this thread, Thanks!

Mine has the temp, fix with the blue tag and double fuse. They removed the switch and replaced it with a plug...I still need to get the new switch..right?
I would say yes. But its hard to tell without a picture. But, remove whats there, put the new part in, remove the fused harness if you can, otherwise just plug in the pigtail in the kit and forget about it. Those fuses will never blow anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just bought a '95 Bronco two days ago and the cruise control doesn't work. I press the start button on the left side of the steering wheel and then the set button on the right side and nothing happens. What is this recall about and could that be the problem with my CC? Also, if the recall hasn't been performed on this vehicle will Ford still do this on a 22 yr. old truck?
Does your horn work? Do you have an airbag light on? It could be a bad clock spring. Thats what solved my CC problem when I first got mine.
 

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...changed out the temporary harness (Blue Tag) and M/C plug with new switch and new short harness. It went well.

ragtop69 I have the same problem with the clock spring, mine still has no cruise. I have a button horn to use but still want the regular one.
 

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Both my horn buttons work. Is horn button failure a symptom of the clock spring problem? Where is the clock spring located and how tough is it to change?
 
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