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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its a 93 f150 with an 4.9 I6, m5od. I swapped the axles, rear drive shaft, t-case, shocks & steering box from the 86 fsb that was sas'd 12 years ago. the front axle is a kp d60 out of a 91 out of a dually. The rear is a ff d60 out of a 95 e350. The t-case is an NP (NV?) 271, shocks are bilstien 5150's (fronts are 12", rears 10") & the steering box is tapped for hydro assist.

i modified a PMF front hanger to work with the crumple zone & the front rear hangers are from SKY..
the front springs are from an excursion.

1350 joint cv rear drive shaft, I had the stock front drive shaft shortened a couple of inches.

it rides better than stock & going from 3.08 gears with 35's to 4.88's made a huge difference.

there's still stuff left to do, but it's drivable. Overall I'm very satisfied with how it looks and rides
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Kevin, if the ttb lift kit was 2.5", then its 4". 37's would fit if I massaged the rear of the front fenders a little bit. I need to notch the tranny cross member, replace the radiator support, & modify the sliders and t-case skid plate from the bronco.

Also, need to replace the rear spool, making a turn on the street is brutal
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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I think 37s would look awesome on there :cool:


Whats the plan for the rear then? Selectable would pretty nice for a p/u that gets street driven. I can only imagine what a spool in the rear of a p/u must be like.
 

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Looks really good. Wish you were closer. I keep going back and fourth over leaf sprung vs coil sas. Why do you think it rides better than the coil TTB?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think 37s would look awesome on there :cool:


Whats the plan for the rear then? Selectable would pretty nice for a p/u that gets street driven. I can only imagine what a spool in the rear of a p/u must be like.
On the bronco the pitbulls would bark making a turn, these tires squeal like stuck pigs. I was thinking about an Eaton TruTrac, but the 4 series carrier version is almost the price of a selectable, so I'm still thinking about it. If I keep the spool, the tires will wear out quicker and I can upgrade to 37's

I bought the 35's before doing the sas. I liked the look of a 2.5" lift with them, but the ttb needed to be rebuilt & both axles had to be regeared because 3.08's with 35's wasn't cutting it. And it seemed that I would regret selling the front d60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks really good. Wish you were closer. I keep going back and fourth over leaf sprung vs coil sas. Why do you think it rides better than the coil TTB?
I think the biggest thing is the spring rate of the ttb coils vs the excursion leafs. Plus there's more give to a rear shackle vs radius arm bushings. F250's have the shackles in the front, Ive never heard of someone installing an RSK with the ttb axle, it probably would be very unstable & unsafe.

If all that stuff weren't true I'd still go with leafs because I like the old school look to them. I've ridden in sas'd broncos with aftermarket radius arms and springs & the ride was very smooth. I still prefer leafs
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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On the bronco the pitbulls would bark making a turn, these tires squeal like stuck pigs. I was thinking about an Eaton TruTrac, but the 4 series carrier version is almost the price of a selectable, so I'm still thinking about it. If I keep the spool, the tires will wear out quicker and I can upgrade to 37's
I ran a true-trac in the front of mine way back in the day, it worked pretty good for a L/S. What about a Detroit or a Grizzly? They are surprisingly smooth. Gotta be the full carrier version tho, not a Spartan or Lock-right. I never really noticed the one in the back of the bronco, and it was my DD for a few years with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ran a true-trac in the front of mine way back in the day, it worked pretty good for a L/S. What about a Detroit or a Grizzly? They are surprisingly smooth. Gotta be the full carrier version tho, not a Spartan or Lock-right. I never really noticed the one in the back of the bronco, and it was my DD for a few years with it.
thanks for the info, I've thought about going that way, but thought they would be a little harsh on the street
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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I had a lock-right in the rear of my samurai, and it might as well have just been a spool :ROFLMAO: But that thing weighed like 1800#, and was super narrow. The bronco is a ton heavier, and wider. So yeah i DD'ed mine on 35s for a few years before i went one-ton, and aide from the occasional bang you really didnt notice it back there at all. It was a full carrier detroit tho, not a drop in.

I still run a detroit in the rear; i will say that its a bit sticky in the cold until the gear oil warms up (i run 75w140, and typically valvoline, but this time i loaded the diffs with Royal Purple so maybe thatll stop it), and it does tend to push a bit in the deep snow. Coming from a spool tho, you already know what thats like.
 

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Good job, came out awesome! I have the sky hangers and shackles just like you but I’m gonna fab a front crossmember and will be using stock rear bronco/f150 springs.

Can you please do me a favor and measure the distance between the bottom of the frame to the center of the leaf spring bolt? Just so I can compare when I build my crossmember. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
173970

173971


the bottom of the end of the frame is around an inch higher than the bottom of the crumple zone. the crumples more or less follow the line of the older frames
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
there was an intermittent clunking usually when turning right caused by the front axle being pushed by the draglink then the leaf springs forcing it back in place. i think the odd crossover steering angle was causing it. So i made a modified obs setup. the trackbar come out to 23.5". i used 2.5x2.5x.25 square tubing and 5/16 plate to make the brackets. i used a TRE bushing to flip the draglink to the bottom of the steering arm and a stock f150 pitman arm. there's about an 1/8" of clearance in between the draglink and leaf spring, hopefully that's enough.

i used the ttb bracket as 1 point to bolt on the trackbar bracket and drilled the main leaf sping to move the axle forward 3/4"

the clunk is gone, still no bumpsteer and it handles well at highway speeds.

178536

old setup

178538
178539
178540
178541
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Kev. I went over a couple of decent sized potholes during the test drive and didn't see any rub marks on the draglink, if it does start to rub, i have a longer f350 pitman arm and a high angle TRE bushing to flip that end to the top of the pitman arm.

the draglink and trackbar angles match up pretty good now, so hopefully it won't rub
 

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How did you do the front leaf spring shackles?

I have a 1997 F-350 7.3 donor truck that i want to take the axles and put them onto my 1995 F-150 5.0

The F-150 has the TTB with coil and the F-30 has the leaf springs Dana 60. Would my case be similar to what you're doing?

I understand the leaf springs vary in width, so the brackets you have, would they work with what i have?

The only thing I dont have are the shackle mounts (do not know where to get/how to make)

and shock towers (which i can buy)

Only reason i plan on swapping is to put the 7.3 engine into my F-150
 
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