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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody. First off thanks in advance for any help I can get. Ok here's the deal. About 2 weeks ago my truck stopped automatically idling down all the way at red lights. Instead of coming down to 800 or so rpm it would hang at 1100-1200 with the truck stopped. After a few secs at the red light the truck would shudder and the rpms and voltage would drop low then back to normal. The problem got much worse yesterday. It didn't want to shift out of 3rd or 4th, around 35mph. wouldnt shift up or down till i came to a complete stop. Came to a stop with rpms hanging around 1500 then wham, strong shudder and everything droppped low then back to normal. Not good.:duh
A little history: '94 302 with 183,000 miles, e4od got replaced in '06 to the tune of $2300. Just put in a new fuel pump, filter and seafoamed the engine and intake last week. I talked briefly to a ford mechanic and he suggested the idle air control valve? My bronc needs your help!:confused:
 

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Yes i need to get a code reader. Any suggestions on brand? Also the Ford mech told me it wont show codes if the engine light is not on??
Actually, you dont need to get a code reader. You can do it for free. Use the seach function and search pulling codes. You will find a ton of info on it. You can also find the procedure at www.fordfuelinjection.com or in the Haynes manual you are about to go buy ;)

You should also fire you mechanic. You can have codes stored even if the engine light is not on. Like the guys are saying, get your codes and go from there.....
 

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Searching is good! Just follow the codes procedure as outlined and be patient. It takes a few times before you get how to count the flashes. Once you get the counting part figured out... its easy, but getting the codes is always the best start to diagnosing an issue like this.....
 

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Not an IAC problem, that wouldn't cause anything with the transmission.

Where the hell is colinlesser when you need him. This is like the 4th thread recently that his input would have actually been useful. :rofl:

I'd start with checking out Xris's thread on checking out your TPS (throttle position sensor).

And seconded, never talk to that 'ford' mechanic again. He doesn't know shit.
 

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This is just a wild guess but from what your describing and the fact that code 636 should up, it might have something to do with the torque converter clutch(TCC). I might be wrong, but I don't think an E4OD will shift into OD without the TCC locking up. Plus if that's the case, without the TCC locking up, the torque converter would generate a lot of heat, causing the TOT to be too high. I also don't think it will down shift out of 3rd without disengaging the TCC, otherwise it would "bog" the engine at low speed/rpm. But then I don't understand why no TCC code showed up either.

If it were me I wouldn't drive it like that until I got that tranny issue squared away. I wouldn't want to burn up my E4OD.
 

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I'm not saying that's what it is. Just from the symptoms you describe it's a possibility. But from what knowledge I have of E4OD trannys I personally wouldn't drive one if it threw me that 636 code.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Was the vehicle at operating temperature when you pulled those codes? If not, the test is invalid.
 

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:stupid

I'm going to bet that's the reason you got those codes.

If you do a KOER test, you should have been driving the truck around for a while before you run the test.

I'd drive my E4OD around if I got the TOT(636) code... :shrug

It could just be a bad sensor. I've also got an aftermarket gauge with which to check, so you probably ought to consider one too, along with a big ass cooler, external filter, and deciding whether or not to keep your radiator loop in the mix.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Update

Ok i crawled under the truck to check the mlps sensor. Wiggled the connector and checked for frayed wires. All ok. Disconnected the negative terminal for bout 20 min and ran self test again. 1-1-1. All ok. Drove the truck and it ran fine. What the hell?!? Decided to get some carb cleaner and clean the throttle body and check the idle air valve. Holy crap that shit is caked on in there. Looks like a gateway to hell it's so black.:goodfinge
Sprayed it down good and restarted. Idled smoother definitely but now in park it idles at 1100 rpm. Normal? Any thoughts would be much appreciated. :thumbup

P.S. Do yall think i should get a new idle sensor? Or leave well enuf alone?
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Disconnected the negative terminal for bout 20 min and ran self test again. 1-1-1. All ok. Drove the truck and it ran fine. What the hell?!?
:doh0715: Okay, you've just lost all of the adaptive learning for the PCM. No huge deal, but disconnecting the battery wasn't necessary.

Decided to get some carb cleaner and clean the throttle body and check the idle air valve. Holy crap that shit is caked on in there. Looks like a gateway to hell it's so black.:goodfinge
Sprayed it down good and restarted. Idled smoother definitely but now in park it idles at 1100 rpm. Normal?
:doh0715:

:smilie_slap :twak

You just removed all of the Teflon coating inside the throttle body. That black stuff is SUPPOSED to be there to PREVENT build-up. Now you're going to have a hell of a time getting it to idle right. AND you're going to have to clean the throttle body just about every other oil change. Nice going.

P.S. Do yall think i should get a new idle sensor? Or leave well enuf alone?
:doh0715: There is NO SUCH THING as an "idle sensor." You really really need to read up on how this stuff works. You're probably going to need a new idle speed control/throttle air bypass valve, yes, because you probably ruined it by cleaning the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
:doh0715: Okay, you've just lost all of the adaptive learning for the PCM. No huge deal, but disconnecting the battery wasn't necessary.



Ok Sig, does this mean an error in the PCM was causing the truck to run bad and resetting the PCM adaptive learning fixed the problem?

:doh0715:

:smilie_slap :twak

You just removed all of the Teflon coating inside the throttle body. That black stuff is SUPPOSED to be there to PREVENT build-up. Now you're going to have a hell of a time getting it to idle right. AND you're going to have to clean the throttle body just about every other oil change. Nice going.


No Sig, the teflon coating around the ring is still intact. A lot of the black "resin" coating that and the blades is now gone though. My blades are gold now. Wow. I've got a much smoother idle and crisper acceleration. Noticeably so, and no more RPM problems after driving about 60 miles last night in 20 degree weather. However my RPM's are higher in park and drive.
Drive at stoplight, warmed up:1000
Park, warmed up:1200-1300
Seems a lil high, so I probably did screw up my idle air valve eh Sig?


:doh0715: There is NO SUCH THING as an "idle sensor." You really really need to read up on how this stuff works. You're probably going to need a new idle speed control/throttle air bypass valve, yes, because you probably ruined it by cleaning the throttle body.


IDLE AIR VALVE. Oops. Grammar police!:smokin:
 

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Your idle is still way too high.

Should be 660rpm.

What was your TPS voltage at idle?
 
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