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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, so my early 95 bronco (08/94 build date)
Is having the 4wabs light come on while driving (sometimes it stays off, 90% of the time it comes on once I start rolling, and a list of 4 codes saved in the module

I pulled the codes via the grounding the wire in the red diag connector method.

Strangely, it doesn't give the codes in numerical order.

The code flash's are as follow

17 - reference voltage - pinpoint test a
11 - ecu failure - replace ecu
63 - pump motor - pinpoint test p
65 - g switch - pinpoint test q

With the code 17 first. Idk if that's a priority code or something, but I'm working on figuring it out.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm pretty concerned over the ecu failure replace ecu code...

I wonder if it has anything to do with the Cummins swap. But I had working abs since the swap, until the accident where I got the horse.
 

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Yo Stormfinder,
Correct!
  • Code 11 Retrieved
  • Anti-lock brake electronic control module failure.
  • REPLACE anti-lock brake electronic control module
  • Reference Voltage/Intermittent Valve Fault (Code 17)
  • 30 amp fuse open.
  • Intermittent connections to battery, main relay or ground.
  • Main relay coil or contacts open.
  • Open or short to ground in Circuit 532 (O/Y).
  • Open or short to ground in Circuit 599 (PK/LG).
  • Open or short to ground in Circuit 601 (LG/PK).
  • Short to ground through anti-lock hydraulic control unit.
  • Intermittent valve failures.
  • High resistance valves.


4WABS Pin-Point Testing in 93-96 Bronco; This is same as in Ford EVTM/PCED/Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via Chilton & me
 

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I Paid for this sh!t
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675 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hey bud. Soni went through. Cleaned all connections with brake clean, and then applied dielectric grease, I then put a jumper wire through the abs pump relay while tapping on the pump to get the brushes unstuck, pump started working, I gave it a minute to free up.

I then put the relay back in place, cycled the key 50 times on and off, waiting for the abs light to go off each time (proper abs code Erasure process)then went for a test drive.l on a muddly dirt road Abs works flawlessly and only code is code 16 (System ok)

I love fixing this stuff!
 

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On my '96, the ABS pump failed when the truck was about 4 years old. Luckily I found one at a junkyard for a reasonable cost. On the replacement I saw a hole in the bottom of the motor cover. I assume that was for some ventilation for whatever reason (that pump motor doesn't run more that a few seconds ever, it can't get that hot!). So, I took some metal duct tape, put it over the hole and painted the motor cover with some black rustoleum. Notice that the ABS pump sits in a very hostile environment, in the wheel well, that Ford cut out so that the salt slush could get to the pump easier (I guess).
After I installed the replacement pump, I took apart my old pump to see why the motor wasn't working (I was getting the code that the motor was triggered but didn't run). Inside that black motor cover are the motor brushes, and another set of brushes that sense the rotation of the motor. In my old one the inside of that black cover was totally rusted, and the moisture had screwed up the big magnets that are inside the housing. It was a big rusty mess.
So, my advice to anyone replacing the ABS pump, cover up that hole and keep the inside slush free.
 

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I Paid for this sh!t
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Discussion Starter #5
I think a great idea for me will be to spray some electric motor safe lubricant in there too, sense my brushes were stuck to begin with.
 
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