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OK here we go again.....

ABS light is on...So I get to lookin and see the wires are disconnected(Front). So obviously I re-connect them and of course the light goes out. Here is the problem...........All is well while stopping until the very last second and it seems the right front is releasing cause the car wants to go to the left. I replaced the wheel sensor but it still does the same thing. So for now, I disconnected the wires and put some black tape over the warning light. Any ideas?
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Have the hubs, rotors, and/or exciter rings been replaced? If so, check the spacing between the exciter ring and the sensor tip. I can't remember the exact specification, maybe 0.050-inch (?), but it's more important that they're virtually identical. The differential in signal voltage is the only way the ABS computer knows a difference in front wheel speed is occurring; if the distances aren't the same, the ABS will assume that one wheel is locking up (the one returning a lower/no signal).
 

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yo,
Here is what Sig was ref. to;
Pointer Waiver TSB 96-21-11 for 92-96; "...The speedometer needle may waver and/or a light surge may occur on some vehicles when speed control is used at highway speeds between 80-113 km/h (50-70 mph). This may be due to slight dents/chips in either the exciter ring or the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and air gaps between the VSS and the exciter ring..."
Source: by Ford via miesk5 @ http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171136&page=2&dr_log=-1&linkout=http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/technical_service_bulletins.htm#PSOM%20Pointer%20Waiver%20TSB%2096-21-11%20for%2092-96

PSOM Pointer Waiver TSB 96-21-11 by Ford for 92-96
Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module Pointer Waiver Article No. 96-21-11
ISSUE: The speedometer needle may waver and/or a light surge may occur on some vehicles when speed control is used
at highway speeds between 80-113 km/h (50-70 mph). This may be due to slight dents/chips in either the exciter ring
or the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and air gaps between the VSS and the exciter ring.
ACTION: Replace the Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM) if required. New PSOM's come with increased immunity to system
variability. Refer to the following Diagnostic Procedure for details.
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE
BRONCO/F-SERIES - Perform normal PSOM diagnostics per Pinpoint Tests "H" and "J" of the 1996 F-Series/Bronco
Body/Chassis Service Manual, Pages 13-01-30 through 13-01-32 and Pinpoint "B" of the 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual,
Page 10-03-11.
1. Any slight dents, chips, etc., in either the exciter ring or VSS will create needle waver. Measure air gap between
the VSS and exciter ring. It should be 0.38-0.51 mm (0.015-0.020").
2. Check exciter ring runout per the same ring gear backface runout procedure of the appropriate model 1996
Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-00. Make sure the exciter ring is mounted correctly to the
ring gear. If runout is more than 0.1 mm (0.004"), perform the differential runout check per the procedure in the
appropriate model 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-02A or 05-02D, to find cause and repair as needed.
3. If all items listed above check good, replace the Instrument Cluster Assembly. Obtain the correct service part number from the Parts Catalogue
and then contact the Electronic Odometer Exchange Center at (800) 259-9700 for U.S. Dealers and (800) 663-9974 for Canadian Dealers.
NOTE: DEALERSHIP MUST TELL THE ODOMETER EXCHANGE CENTER THAT YOU NEED A PSOM3 LEVEL CLUSTER FOR A SPEEDOMETER NEEDLE WAVER CONCERN.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
Bronco 962111B Replace Programmable 0.7 Hr.
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Try the 4WABS Self Test for Codes;

4WABS Self Test & Connector Diagram, Component Locations, DTCs, 93-96; USE THIS PROCESS! "...The 4WABS TEST Connector is red; located at the left-hand side (driver's side) of the engine compartment and marked ANTI-LOCK TEST; Light Flash Technique 1. Note: If 12V test light is not available, the amber ABS warning light also flashes during this test. Locate test connector in the engine compartment and install 12V test light between Pins C and E. 2. With the ignition off, jumper Pin E to B. 3. Turn key to RUN position. 4. Remove jumper between Pins E and B after 5 seconds. 5. Count light flashes of test light or amber ABS warning light..." read more
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Scroll to the bottom to see other Unwarranted ABS Activity
such as;
Vehicle Pulls During Braking
Possible Source(s):
� Fully or partially blocked right front inlet (isolation) valve.
� Fully or partially blocked left front inlet (isolation) valve.
� Improperly adjusted rear brake.
� Frozen or binding caliper (one side of vehicle).
� Uneven brake pad or shoe wear.
� Pinched or crimped brake line or hose. I had a pinched flex line up front 2 yrs ago because a tire swapper thought he was doing a brake job on it (instead of routine rotation) and clamped off the hose w/vise grips... the guy still works for the mom and pop tire store because thet "like him"
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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17,736 Posts
Actually...no. :toothless

The DTC is referring to the sensor & exciter in the rear differential. I think his problem lies in the FRONT sensors and/or exciters.
 

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'94 ABS Tone Ring/Sensor problems

I'm having a similar issue as noted above. I replaced the rotors some time ago and didn't replace the TONE RING. Like a good shade tree mechanic I beat the ring off by "tapping" the lug studs out and then the ring. I "tapped" the ring back on and thought I got it fully seated. Not too long after that I started getting the ABS light after driving for a little while.
Recently I had to replace the BALL JOINTS so I basically rebuilt the right side (ran out of time or I would have got both). I damaged the old ABS SENSOR removing it but reinstalled it so I could get a road test in while the replacement was being shipped. Not the best idea. The damaged ABS SENSOR rubbed against the ABS TONE RING. There wasnt much metal removed but you can see that there was some. Now I have two issues. 1) The ABS SENSOR is positioned too close to the TONE RING and 2) I can't find a new TONE RING to replace the damaged one.
I'm planning on removing the rotor assembly again and replacing the TONE RING using a press to seat the ring. The ABS SENSOR is easy-enough to get if I need to replace it.

Any idea on a source for the TONE RING? I've called a couple dealers and the part is no longer available through FORD.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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I think Bronco Graveyard carries them.
 

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JBG Brake Parts

Thanks for the link. This looks like the right stuff. I've got two on order and will swap the left one out within the week. I've got to get to the shop to use the press. I don't like the "beating the ring back on" idea. The risk of chipping a tooth or getting it out of alignment is too great.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Nah, I've had mine off and on several times doing it with a plastic mallet. It's not that tight of a fit, plus it's easier if you use a piece of wood for added cushion and keeping the ring from getting cock-eyed.
 

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Ordered the rings but might not need them afterall.
The existing ring did rub against the old wheel speed sensor. I replaced the wheel speed sensor and heard a squeeking noise while braking. I pulled the sensor and added some shims to inscrease the clearance between the sensor and the ring. I still had a squeek from the right wheel when braking. I also picked up pulsing while braking at low speed, an ABS Light and a pull to the left. I pulled the shim out. This got rid of the pull but the ABS Light was still lit and the squeek was still there. I disconnected the battery to reset any electrical faults that may be present in the ABS system. The ABS light went out, the squeeking diminished and the pull went away. I believe the brake squeel was from a caliper slide that I replaced when I had the rotor off. The inside edge of the clip had a little too much metal and rubbed against the outside diameter of the rotor when th ebrake was applied. I removed the clip and increased the clearance and reseated the clip. No noise, no pull and no light. Thanks for all the help.
 
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