[jowens1126]

I started work replacing my AC system today and I have ran into a snag.
I removed the dryer, Unbolted the top screws on the evaporator box, unbolted the screws on the front of the box, unbolted the big top bolt securing the box to the firewall. Now Im having trouble finding the Bottom Bolt located somewhere inside the cab. Also, I am having trouble getting to the 2 screws on the bottom side of the evaporator box. Does anyone have any ideas or tricks for getting to these 2 screws?

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/891686- Click here to see it bigger to read text.

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Is this the bolt inside the cab Under the glove Box?

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Also, this Nut was coming off fine till it got to the end of the threads now it is spinning the whole bolt. Ideas?

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[jowens1126]

Found part of an answer in Steve83's post on supermotors.

Looks like this is the correct bolt under the dash.

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He also says that the bottom screws were rusted and he had to dremel them out. But how do you get to them?

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I'll remove the evaporator core for 2 reasons:
1) to check for metal shavings from the failed compressor, and to flush them out if necessary, &
2) to wash the squirrel crap out of the fins. I vacuumed out what I could while replacing the blower & resistor, but I know there's more.

Three of the case screws are hidden inside the foil heat sheild, and on this truck, their heads had rusted away. I had to dremel them off & then use vise-grips to remove the screw shafts.

 

[miesk5]

yo,
I keep losing Comcast cable and it is too slow to load your pics..
so

Housing Removal & Installation in a 87-88 & 89-96 (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes);

Evaporator Core Housing REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
I would skip da parts that say to discharge da system since Steve knows more than the NEW tech "writers" @ Chilton/etc...

1.Discharge the refrigerant system using a certified recycling/recovery station

2.Disconnect the vacuum supply hose at the dash panel. Position the check valve (this is da Vacuum Check Valve shown in Steve's Diagram, below - (Vacuum Diagram in 92-96)[/) away from the case. See the same diagram below by Steve (Vacuum Diagram in 92-96)

3.Using a quick-disconnect coupling tool, disconnect the liquid line at the evaporator core. Cap all openings at once!
4.Using a back-up wrench, disconnect the suction line at the accumulator. Cap all openings at once!
5.Drain the cooling system. Miesk5 Note; drain a little until hoses are relatively frr of coolant; may as well replace both anyway

6.Disconnect the heater hoses at the core. I split em there with a sharp knife/razor so I don't frig up da core tubing esp since I replace those hoses anyway.

7.Working in the passenger's compartment, remove the 2 screws or nuts attaching the bottom of the case to the dash panel. One screw also secures the lower edge of the plenum.
8.Disconnect the vacuum and wiring harnesses located at the right end of the plenum.
9.Remove the 2 screws attaching the right side of the recirc duct to the dash panel.
10.Remove the 2 nuts attaching the evaporator case and recirc duct to the dash panel.
11.Pull the evaporator case and recirc duct forward and out of the truck
SEE Steve's pics (in my post above) of the cover for an idea of the screw holes..etc.
To install:

12.Position the case assembly in the truck and install the screws and nuts attaching it to the dash panel.
13.Connect the vacuum and wiring harnesses.
14.Using new O-rings coated with clean refrigerant oil, connect the refrigerant lines. Tighten the suction line, using a back-up wrench, to 28-33 ft. lbs. (38-45 Nm).
15.Connect the heater hoses.
16.Fill the cooling system.
17.Evacuate, charge and leak test the refrigerant system (refer to ).

A detailed Diagram;

10 19850 Evaporator Assembly
Item Part Number Description
1 56956-S2 Screw and Washer Assembly
2 N621906-S2 Nut
3 45261-S2 J-Nut
4 18471 Chamber Assembly, Plenum
5 56950-S2 Screw, Washer Head
6 — Vacuum Hose (Part of Vacuum Harness)
7 18C433 Duct Assembly
8 01610 Dash Panel
9 N801696-S2 Nut (As Required)
10 19850 Evaporator Assembly (All)
11 12A581 Wiring Assembly (All Engines Except 7.3L Diesel Engine Without E4OD Automatic Transmission)
12 18A586 Wiring Assembly
13 18D306 Cable Assembly (Temperature) Blue End
14 — Vacuum Tubes (Part of 18A586)
15 — Install Locator in Hole in Bracket
16 N803946-S Rivet, Blind Truss Head
17 N621906-S2 Nut
18 N803912-S2 Stud
19 14401 Wiring Assembly
20 — To 19980 Control
21 M4G195 Sealer
22 9F479 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor and Bracket Assembly
23 — To Right Anti-Lock Brake System Sensor Connector (Bronco Only)
24 19E746 Clip, A/C Tube Lock Coupling
25 — Locator (Part of 14401)
A — Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 Lb-In)
B — Tighten to 2-4 Nm (18-35 Lb-In)
C — Part Number Location on Cable
D — Install in Hole Provided



Outside A/C Box Parts Break-Out Diagram w/Out Nomenclature in 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/883867

 

[miesk5]

yo,
figures, cable is so slow, I overwrote this from my 96 Workshop Manual
A/C Evaporator Core Housing
Removal

NOTE: Cap all open refrigerant lines and components to prevent entry of dirt and moisture into the A/C system.
Recover refrigerant from system following the recommended service procedures. Refer to Section 12-00. Observe all safety precautions.

Disconnect vacuum supply hose at dash panel. Position A/C vacuum check valve (19A563) away from A/C evaporator case (19897).

Disconnect A/C manifold and tube (19D734) from A/C evaporator core (19860) using Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool Set T84L-19623B.

Disconnect evaporator to compressor suction line (19867) from suction accumulator/drier (19C836). Cap all open refrigerant lines to prevent entrance of dirt and moisture.

Disconnect heater water hoses (18472) from heater core (18476) and plug heater water hoses with suitable 15.87mm (5/8-inch) plugs.

Working in passenger compartment, remove two screws or nuts attaching bottom of A/C evaporator case to dash panel (01610). One screw also attaches lower edge of A/C evaporator case to dash panel.

Unplug A/C plenum vacuum harness (18C581) and two wiring connectors to main wiring (14401) located near right end of plenum harness coming from recirc. duct opening back into opening.
Remove two screws attaching right side of recirc. duct to dash panel.
Remove two retaining nuts attaching A/C evaporator case and recirc. duct to dash panel.
Pull A/C evaporator case and recirc. duct forward and remove it from vehicle.

Item Part Number Description
1 18471 Heater Air Plenum Chamber
2 � Hex Screw/Washer Head
(Part of 18471)
3 � Vacuum Hose (Part of Vacuum Harness)
4 18C433 Heater Outlet Floor Duct
5 45261-S2 J-Nut (3 Req'd)
6 01610 Dash Panel
7 56956-S2 Hex Screw and Washer Assembly
8 19850 A/C Evaporator Housing
9 N621906-S2 Nut (2 Req'd)
10 N801696-S2 Nut
11 N803912-S2 Stud (2 Req'd)
12 621906 Nut (4 Req'd)
-----

Installation

Position recirc. duct and A/C evaporator case to dash panel. Install two retaining nuts along top edge of assembly.

Install two screws along right side of recirc. duct.

Working in passenger compartment, install top screws to attach bottom of A/C evaporator case to dash panel.

Connect A/C plenum vacuum harness from recirc. duct opening to the dash panel.

Using a new green O-ring lubricated with clean refrigerant oil, connect A/C manifold and tube to A/C evaporator core.

Using a new green O-ring lubricated with clean refrigerant oil, connect evaporator to compressor suction line to suction accumulator/drier. Tighten connection to 34-44 Nm (25-32 lb-ft) using two wrenches.

Connect heater water hoses to heater core. Tighten clamps only to 1.4-2.0 Nm (12-18 lb-in).

Connect A/C plenum vacuum harness and two wiring connectors to main wiring under instrument panel (04320).

Fill and bleed cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03.

Leak test, evacuate and charge system following recommended procedures. Refer to Section 12-00. Observe all safety precautions.

Check system for proper operation.

Refer to Section 12-00 for Evaporator Leak Test.

 

[jowens1126]

Thanks Miesk,

I saw this in another thread. Helps a little, but the diagrams are hard to read when you blow them up, and my eyes are bad as it is.
I think I am going to get a mirror and see if i can get a look at the 2 screws on the bottom of the evap box and see if the screw heads are in tact or rusted to hell. I have a feeling they are rusted to hell.
I felt around down there and tried to get a socket on the front screw and i couldnt get it to catch. Hopefully I can find a mirror small enough to get down in there but large enough to still see what its showing.

Back to work.

 

[jowens1126]

Well that was a dirty hours worth of work. I didnt accomplish a whole lot either.

I managed to work the stuck nut loose.

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Looks like the bottom 2 screw are completely rusted.

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I tried getting them loose, but i just cant see what im doing.

Finally got the spring lock loose, wd-40 and a hammer work every time. Oh and the Dremmel tool. Had to cut the line so I could have room to work the damn tool. It was all corroded.

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you can see a little better in this picture, but the inside was full of small shavings. (Not from cutting the line either)

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Old Orfice tube, damn that thing is WAY down in there.
Gonna see if i can find some hemostats to fish that thing out.

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I went underneath to see if I could get to the bottom 2 screws on the box, I could get to it alot easier from here if the damn wheel well wasnt in the way.

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How easy is it to remove the passenger side wheel well? This may be my only option short of taking it to a mechanic.

 

[jowens1126]

Anyone?

 

[jowens1126]

Gave up on the Evaporator for the moment. Moved on to the Condenser.
I saw a thread where someone said to remove the Condenser out the front of the truck. Just so you know, this is 100% WRONG. To remove the condenser you MUST unbolt the top 2 bolts on the fan shroud, remove the 2 mounting bolts on the radiator, then slide the radiator back on to the fan, just let it rest there.

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Then crawl underneath the truck, and remove the lower shroud, this will give you access to the 2 bolts holding in the lower support for the Condenser. Loosen these but do not remove the bolts.

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You'll notice my core support is getting pretty rusty, but that's a project for a later date.

Remove the top 2 bolts holding in the Condenser.

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Slide the condenser out.

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New Condenser in place.

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nice and shiny and clean.

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[jowens1126]

I'm pretty sure the only way i'm going to get the bottom 2 screws out of the evaporator is to remove the inner fender well.
So, tomorrow i'm going to go talk to my mechanic friend and see what he would charge me to get those 2 screws out. If its not too much
i'm gonna let him wrestle with it.

 

[jowens1126]

I'm just thinking out loud here, but what if i tried using an Air Hammer on these 2 bolts?

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Do you think it would break the plastic box? If i thought that would work I could knock the heads off the bolts and then extract them with a pair of pliers after the box is apart.
Any thoughts? Anyone?

 

[5Rangers]

I notice it looks like you have new upper mount bolts for the condenser, I'm wondering where did you get them? BTW, I did remove my condenser from the front, but, it was an aftermarket piece of crap and I have a new stock one. I can see that I have to move the rad back to get the stock back in. All of my stock mounting hardware is gone though, so it's either head to the JY or if you have a source? Thanks...

BTW, I'm in the same boat as you, I'm replacing the condenser, compressor, accumulator, hoses and the wiring harness. I'm going to flush the evaporator. The PO destroyed the stock harness and cobbled it together with speaker wire, yes, speaker wire. Anyway, good luck on your install.

 

[jowens1126]

Wow, at least mine was working when I got the truck. The wonderful dealer I bought it from just threw some freon in the system so it would blow cold for a few days after I bought it.
Then it leaked out and the compressor imploded. When I took a closer look at the system, I found a nice leak in the condenser. All the lines were full of tiny metal particles. Almost like shiny dust.
So I knew I would be better off just replacing everything with new. It doesnt cost that much anyway and I will be sure Im starting off with a fully working system.

Installation is pretty easy, with the exception of the evaporator box bottom bolts. I found an AC guy that will come pull a vacuum and charge it for $50 at the house.
That beats the hell out of the local shops that want to charge $150 minimum.

My condenser came with all the mounting hardware. I got it from Rock Auto. I got the Spectra Premium model for ~$85.00.
Its at least as good as the one I pulled out. I did have a little bit of trouble with the mounting hardware on the top, but I figured out how to make it work.
It was no big deal at all. Just could have been better if it came with any kind of instructions. But I figured it out.

 

[5Rangers]

Interesting, I get mine from rock too, only it was the Tyc... No hardware... May have to give rock a call

 

[jowens1126]

I would call them. You wont find anything in the JY. The stock unit I pulled off had the hardware integrated into the mounting tabs. So the mounting hardware was not removable. Basically all it was is a Gromett and a aluminum sleeve.

 

[jowens1126]

Does ANYONE have any thoughts on my Evaporator Box Problem?

 

[5Rangers]

Maybe if you have a high speed or a dremmel, it may be better just to carefully grind the heads off, once you get the cover off there should be enough shaft there to get a pair of vice grips on it and turn it out.

 

[jowens1126]

Well the only problem with that is, To keep from eating into the box, you need to see what your grinding. The only way to do that is from underneath the truck. Its not accessible to get the tool up in there without removing the wheel well. Im trying to avoid that pain in the ass maneuver.

 

[jowens1126]

I Guess I will see what ideas my Mechanic friend has in the morning.

 

[m-unit]

removing the wheel well isn't bad at all. I avoided it for a while, but it makes everything so much easier

 

[5Rangers]

Nuts and bolts.... Thats it...