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Discussion Starter #1
hi everyone.

So i just picked up my bronco this past weekend. traded an old Sunfire for it. got it home and started to check everything out (should have done this before the deal was done)... found many things wrong with this right out the gate.

Here's the list of visual problems:

1. Oil all under the engine and transmission!!( litterally everywhere)
2. Has K&N cold air intake but is just sitting in engine bay not bolted down so its beat up, pretty bad..
3. Cruise doesnt work(brake lights and horn do work though!)
4. was told the IAC valve needed to be replaced (stalls in reverse)
5. body looks rough but come to find out, paint was fading so someone painted some ugly green paint in those spots.
6. has an F-150 driverside front fender (gap from hood is about an inch)
7. tailpipes rusted through( driver side totally gone)

Ok so that is my visual Inspection. So i started to replace the easiest thing first, IAC valve. i pulled the intake tube and filter and found wat may be a very bad thing(IDK)...

OIL buildup in the throttle body!!!!!
So i pulled that and it was also in the intake!! UGH:banghead

thank god i had a bottle of throttle body cleaner laying around. started to clean throttle body and was supprised how easily it came off. then ran out of cleaner..

SO next spot i saw was my coolant reservoir. FULL OF F#*%ING MUD!!!!:banghead:banghead:banghead

ran to the parts store and picked up a bottle of flush fluids, thermostat(obviously) and some coolant..

Now im at work.. So i'd like your ideas on what i should do?? Thanks so much!!
 

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Fix whats broke and wheel it.:smilie_slap



Seriously, it sounds like its been rode hard and put up wet (literally).
I would do a compression/leakdown test on the motor first to make sure its okay, then go from there.
Have you checked for codes? CEL on?

Oh, pull your trans pan, check fluid condition, and make sure filter is securely attached. Might as well change it while your there, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gotcha..

I looked up how to pull codes but I'm just lost.. could I get an easy explanation?? I've got the link for the code meanings, just don't understand how to get em..

Also, ive been looking it up, but is it ok if i put a breather filter on the hose that connects from oil fill tube to intake tube?? i was thinking that it would keep oil out of the intake...
 

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If you traded a Sunfire for it and didn't bring the pieces home in a box, I'd say you still came out ahead in that deal.:thumbup
 

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1. "Oil all under the engine and transmission!!( litterally everywhere)"

I had this same issue with mine when I first got it, both transmission and oil pan were leaking. I replaced the oil pan gasket, that fixed the oil leak, and had the transmission flushed (which I'm not quite sure was necessary but it put my mind at ease), along with a fresh filter and gasket for the transmission (that is yet to leak again). Considering it sounds like you don't know too much about it prior service information (which I didn't on mine either) it could be your gasket are worn out like mine were. If you trace the leak to the oil pan I would reccomend replacing you oil pan too if its a little rusty because you have to lift the engine to change the gasket (I should say its MUCH easier) any ways. I think they cost around $50. I didn't change my pan and I'm regretting it now seeing that there is a small leak coming from a rusty spot on my oil pan.
Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you traded a Sunfire for it and didn't bring the pieces home in a box, I'd say you still came out ahead in that deal.:thumbup
lol.. thanks... the truck came with spare parts too!! i got an extra window(the triangle one) new plug wires, distributor cap, and lots more.. plus the truck is just about rust free minus the exhaust and a little surface rust on the roof(fixing that this weekend so it wont go any further):thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1. "Oil all under the engine and transmission!!( litterally everywhere)"

I had this same issue with mine when I first got it, both transmission and oil pan were leaking. I replaced the oil pan gasket, that fixed the oil leak, and had the transmission flushed (which I'm not quite sure was necessary but it put my mind at ease), along with a fresh filter and gasket for the transmission (that is yet to leak again). Considering it sounds like you don't know too much about it prior service information (which I didn't on mine either) it could be your gasket are worn out like mine were. If you trace the leak to the oil pan I would reccomend replacing you oil pan too if its a little rusty because you have to lift the engine to change the gasket (I should say its MUCH easier) any ways. I think they cost around $50. I didn't change my pan and I'm regretting it now seeing that there is a small leak coming from a rusty spot on my oil pan.
Hope this helps!
ill be sure to check thoroughly tomorrow to find the culprit...ive been looking up pan gasket replacement and it seems like i have to pull the motor??.. what did you do?? if just the gasket needs replaced, could i just lift the engine a little???
 

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Engine brite will work just fine. You have take off the motor mounts and lift it considering I didn't have anything to lift it with I had a mechanic replace mine. But I'm told there is a way replace just the gasket without lifting the engine using a one piece gasket .But you can't remove the oil pan without lifting the engine. I will search and see if I can find it for you.

This might be helpful
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263938&highlight=replacing+oil+pan+gasket
 

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Fixing leaks is cool and all, but will be in vain if the motor or tranny need to be overhauled.

Making sure the engine/tranny are sound should be your first priority, then brakes, then axles/t-case.
After that is solid then you can deal with lesser problems like leaks and electrical gremlins.

There are numerous threads on how to pull/read codes. Just use the search function up top.
 

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Fixing leaks is cool and all, but will be in vain if the motor or tranny need to be overhauled.

Making sure the engine/tranny are sound should be your first priority, then brakes, then axles/t-case.
After that is solid then you can deal with lesser problems like leaks and electrical gremlins.

There are numerous threads on how to pull/read codes. Just use the search function up top.
Agreed. I should have mentioned that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Fixing leaks is cool and all, but will be in vain if the motor or tranny need to be overhauled.

Making sure the engine/tranny are sound should be your first priority, then brakes, then axles/t-case.
After that is solid then you can deal with lesser problems like leaks and electrical gremlins.

There are numerous threads on how to pull/read codes. Just use the search function up top.
understood.. if the engine or tranny need to be rebuilt, is it a DIY job for the average person? and how much time (about) whould each one take?? i have the 5.0 and the E40D.. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Steve83, again thanks so much.. i should have mentioned about rebuilding the motor that I have rebuilt an engine before.. although I had help from a mechanic. This was at my old job.. we rebuilt an old pinto motor that was in a leaf machine... ( I used to work for the city).. so i kno the basics (sorta).. but if need b, I'll get the job done... thanks
 

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lol you are describing my bronco (fix and have fun) i gave the guy a grand because it ran good and the transmission rebuilt 1800 with paper and warranty (felt sorry for him) .

i have fixed the original problems except rusted exhaust pipe held by a coat hanger behind the muffler lol for now !

Pics?
 

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yo DSW,

most significant issue is;

"3. Cruise doesnt work(brake lights and horn do work though!)"
Write down VIN and call local Ford Dealer and ask about this Cruise Recall;
Info on Fords Safety recall speed control
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101947&highlight=Cruise

or try this Ford site
http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/RecallsPag
Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Recall Notices
Recall information starting from Jan 1, 1999 is available here.
Last updated Oct 23, 2014.
Enter Your VIN

For Fender and other issues not cited, here is the 96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)
all same for your 94 except for OBD II.

Section 01-02: Body Panels, Front End
ADJUSTMENTS
Hood Alignment

Hood Hinge

Fender and Apron, Front

Group 03: ENGINE

etc.


Idle Air Control (IAC)
Overview & Testing; "First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I’ve had the torture of learning throughout the years: Idle Air Bypass •Idle Air Control •Idle Speed Control •Throttle Bypass Air •Idle Bypass •Inlet Air Controller •Inlet Air Bypass •Intake Air Bypass •Intake Air Control..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://web.archive.org/web/20101201013829/http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39

Removal & Cleaning in a 93 Source: by Bobby (blue)

after Self-Test For Codes;
DTC 411 Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high); "...DTC 411 indicates a dirty/ bad or connector issue w/daIdle Air Control valve (IAC). inspect it for crapola. Some can be cleaned. But our's shouldn't since the TSB says; "...Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years...." in Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
DTC 412 Cannot control RPM during KOER self-test high RPM check. "...indicates that during the Engine Running Self-Test, engine rpm could not be controlled within the Self-Test upper limit band. Possible causes: Open or shorted circuit. Throttle linkage binding. Improper idle airflow set. Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid contamination. Items external to Idle Air Control system that could affect engine rpm. Damaged IAC solenoid. Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Turn the key "OFF", connect a tachometer. Then start the engine and disconnect the Idle Air Control (IAC) harness connector. Does the rpm drop or engine stall? If it does, turn the key "OFF" and disconnect the IAC. With an Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM) check the resistance of the IAC solenoid. It should be between 6.0 and 13.0 ohms. Due to diode in the solenoid, place the DVOM (+) lead on the VPWR pin and the (-) lead on the IAC pin. If it is not within specification, replace the IAC solenoid..." miesk5 Note; Ford says the range is 7-13 ohms
Idle or Noise Problems & Troubleshooting; including HIGH IDLE Conditions; "...For high idle problems, try unplugging the IAC motor. If the idle drops, its usually due to an input signal to the computer which results in the computer raising the idle speed. If this is the case, look at all of the computer inputs to make sure everything is up to par. If the engine RPM does not drop when the IAC motor is disconnected, then either the IAC motor is not functioning properly, or, there is a vacuum leak in the engine. Stop the engine, remove the IAC motor and block off the passages. Restart the engine to see if there is any change in engine RPM. An idle speed higher than base idle specs indicates a vacuum leak. If the engine RPM is at base idle specs, then the IAC motor is bad. Resistance specs are 7-13 ohms. A good resistance reading does not necessarily mean that the IAC motor is good. Occasionally, an IAC motor will become weak, and will actually bypass too much air, causing a high idle condition even though everything else is operating properly..."
Source: by Mike N
 

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sounds like the one you got was alot like mine. Read thru my build thread linked below. You will get an idea of the common problems I had with my 94. Might give you some ideas on whats going on with yours.
 
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