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Discussion Starter #1
I would like to put a roller longblock into my '88 but I was told it wouldn't work. I didn't get an good reason why, thats where you guys come in.

Info: 1988 351w EFI, C6
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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i see no reason why it wouldn't
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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that is the same year i swapped in mine. you will need a different distributor with the proper cam gear. all of the emission plumbing that goes from the back down the passenger side is different then whats on you 88 so if you can just get rid of all that crap. you will also need a specific flexplate but that is no biggie either
 

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Discussion Starter #4
is it a better engine? As in is it worth the extra money? Where did you get yours from?
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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well if its got a roller cam in it, its def. gonna make more power. Heck, just having the bare roller block is worth about $300 bucks. I paid $250 for mine and it was already .040 over
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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i would say its worth it. i paid $800 for mine complete from head to toe. it revs very smooth up to 5500
 

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Discussion Starter #7
$800! Junk yard?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
also are you running a C6?
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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Kemical....were all 95's roller block, with what, roller cam and roller lifters, roller rocker arms? I honestly don't know if mine is or not (I don't care much about playing with my engine, just keep it tuned proper, and stock). Thought I remembered someone saying '95 was the switchover year, not all '95 351's have them. I would guess they would produce a bit more power, but reduced wear/heat= longevity I think is the bigger advantage. Possibly slighty better chance for MPG's, though a brick is still a brick.
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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Shadofax said:
Kemical....were all 95's roller block, with what, roller cam and roller lifters, roller rocker arms? I honestly don't know if mine is or not (I don't care much about playing with my engine, just keep it tuned proper, and stock). Thought I remembered someone saying '95 was the switchover year, not all '95 351's have them. I would guess they would produce a bit more power, but reduced wear/heat= longevity I think is the bigger advantage. Possibly slighty better chance for MPG's, though a brick is still a brick.
The roller blocks started in '94, you can tell from the casting number on your block. If its a roller it should be F4TE Meaning, 94 was the year they were first produced.

Even if you have a roller block, you probably don't have a roller cam and lifters. The factory ford 351w "roller ready" truck blocks never actually came with the roller cam. Not even the lightnings. If the motor has been rebuilt, then who knows, it might or might not. Only way to be sure would be to pop off the intake and a vavle cover, loosen up a pushrod and pull the lifter out to see if it has a roller tip or not.

And...to make things interesting, if you don't have a roller block you can buy conversion roller lifters, and use the special roller cams designed for them to get the advantage of a roller came in an early 351w block.

Roller cams don't wear as much as flat tappet ones. Some people say they don't really wear at all, i dunno, because ive never really checked one that has been driven any length of time.
 

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FSB warrior
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No on the rocker arms Shadowfax, unknown the year they started the roller thing though.

Make sure if you are running a ford alphabet cam you install a STEEL distributor gear. E-303, X-303, Z-303 etc Im pretty sure all ford roller cams require steel gears, there are a few out there by other manufacturers that you can run brass, but if you run brass on an alphabet cam you will be pulling the brass chunks out of your oil pan in exactly 2,000 miles its really not fun..

I dont see any reason you would need a new flexplate unless you go from 302-351 or vice versa.

It is most definatly a better engine, revs higher, lasts longer (valvetrain)
 

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Are those REAL?!?!
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magnumpi said:
Only way to be sure would be to pop off the intake and a vavle cover, loosen up a pushrod and pull the lifter out to see if it has a roller tip or not.
Uhhmmmm... you don't have to go through all of this, just remove the intake and have a look in the valley. If the lifters are paired by "double-wishbone" looking metal clips, it's got roller lifters. Those clips keep the lifters aligned so that the "wheel" rolls on the cam lobes.


:thumbup :popc1:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lets get back to the question at hand. If I buy a '95 long block what else will I have to do to get it in and pass emissions?
 

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The Anti Yam!
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BillyB said:
Lets get back to the question at hand. If I buy a '95 long block what else will I have to do to get it in and pass emissions?
Nothing, it's a direct bolt in.
(If it is a stock long block)

81Bronk36 said:
Make sure if you are running a ford alphabet cam you install a STEEL distributor gear.
Not just Ford, any roller cam.

magnumpi said:
And...to make things interesting, if you don't have a roller block you can buy conversion roller lifters, and use the special roller cams designed for them to get the advantage of a roller came in an early 351w block..
The new retrofit lifters will work with any standard base circle roller cam. But the retrofit lifters cost close to $500.00, and roller cams are on the order of $100.00 more than flat tappets.

magnumpi said:
Roller cams don't wear as much as flat tappet ones. Some people say they don't really wear at all, i dunno, because ive never really checked one that has been driven any length of time.
If a flat tappet hydrolic cam is installed and broke in properly, then it should'nt wear verry much at all (Even after 300,000miles). However they are way more susptible to flattening a lobe if somthing does goes wrong in the engine.

Rollers almost never flatten a lobe.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So will I have to get the cam seperately?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Dunno, I haven't bought it yet. I need to put a new engine in so I figured I would put the '94+ roller 351 in. I am stil worried about the computer and all the electronics.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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BillyB said:
Dunno, I haven't bought it yet. I need to put a new engine in so I figured I would put the '94+ roller 351 in. I am stil worried about the computer and all the electronics.
Where are you buying it from?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
still pricing places. honestly it doesn't matter to me but I think the suggested place from here is Jasper. I might try a Houston area place too.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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BillyB said:
still pricing places. honestly it doesn't matter to me but I think the suggested place from here is Jasper. I might try a Houston area place too.
If you get a factory replacement 95 Engine for a F-Serise/Bronco the cam will still be flat tappet. So unleas you plan on upgrading to a roller cam later it really is not worth the money for the newer block (If they cost more)

Your EFI will work fine on it.
 
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