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Discussion Starter #61
Got my body mount bushings done and took her for a drive around the neighborhood last night!! :chili:
Unbelievable!! No more rattling and clanking around, it rode really smooth and drove great. I hit some dirt and it just soaks the bumps right up. Last week I also revalved my rear shocks to 360/80 and I have no body roll taking corners or hitting good sized bumps in the dirt. It almost feels a little stiff, but I think as everything breaks in and especially after I get my bumpers and sliders on it will be just right.
I did notice my shocks are a little too low on the front for up travel so I need to raise the upper mount by 1 inch, the adjustable mounts will make that easy.
It was dark when I drove it last night so no out of the garage pictures yet, but here is a few of the new body mounts installed, I got lucky. My truck is an AZ rust free vehicle, I was able to unbolt and punch out all of my mounts and reused all the hardware. Just had to grind down the mushroomed end a little and clean things up, overall the body mounts went really smooth. I do notice the poly mounts transmit more road noise but I also don't have major rattles anymore.



 

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aka: kemicalburns
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that is excellent news.
 

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Got my body mount bushings done and took her for a drive around the neighborhood last night!! :chili:
Unbelievable!! No more rattling and clanking around, it rode really smooth and drove great. I hit some dirt and it just soaks the bumps right up. Last week I also revalved my rear shocks to 360/80 and I have no body roll taking corners or hitting good sized bumps in the dirt. It almost feels a little stiff, but I think as everything breaks in and especially after I get my bumpers and sliders on it will be just right.
I did notice my shocks are a little too low on the front for up travel so I need to raise the upper mount by 1 inch, the adjustable mounts will make that easy.
It was dark when I drove it last night so no out of the garage pictures yet, but here is a few of the new body mounts installed, I got lucky. My truck is an AZ rust free vehicle, I was able to unbolt and punch out all of my mounts and reused all the hardware. Just had to grind down the mushroomed end a little and clean things up, overall the body mounts went really smooth. I do notice the poly mounts transmit more road noise but I also don't have major rattles anymore.





What rear springs are you running?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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I love the poly body mounts..made a huge difference on my rig as well..give them a few miles than go back and retighten as needed..:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Bad news!!! Drove it again last night, this time I put it in 4wd and drove around, everything worked fine but when I got out to unlock the hubs I noticed oil on the inside of the front tires, my front axle seals leak!:banghead
After some research last night I found out somehow I got the seals for a D44 low pinion and not the '79 high pinion that I have. :twak I dont know wtf happened there...
So ordered the correct seals and now I get to pull the carrier! Woot! So excited!!!:banghead :cry:cry

Here is a pic of it outside of the garage finally!

 

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Discussion Starter #69
Well things went good changing the axle seals, no leaks! I ended up buying a housing spreader off ebay to make it easier and it sure did. It was well worth the money in my book. When I pulled the leaky seals out I realized I drove them in too far and they weren't completely on the smooth part of the axle shaft. So I drove the new seals flush and its good to go, no leaks in 4wd.

Here's the spreader I got off ebay for $95.



I wanted to finish up on a couple things and show how I ran the OX locker cable and shifter.




Here is the Superduty 1350 front driveshaft I had shortened and used it for the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Earlier this week I got my 35's put on and have been heat cycling the gears for break in. I just cruise around the neighborhood in 4wd for 20 minutes after work and then let it cool down. On Friday I drove it to work which is a 20 mile one way trip and did 70 mph the whole way with no issue's and it drove amazing.
Today I loaded up the family and we did some wheelin just a few miles from the house. I wanted to run a short hour long trip and test the suspension out. To be completely honest, I couldn't be happier, its exceeded my expectations. This is the first solid axle vehicle I have ever wheeled and it is a whole new experience, I love it.

Here she is sitting on 35's, driving it around this week broke in the leaf springs and they sagged down another 2", I didn't expect that much so its low in the rear right now, I am going to wait and see if the front coils break in any.



Starting to strecth it out.



Having some good fun here, amazingly to me, I think it still has a little suspension travel left. I had the rear diff on a rock and couldn't back up anymore, it felt very stable and no threat of tipping over. Tires aren't aired down and at 35 psi. No rubbing anywhere, I did trim the front bumper.



 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Looking great man!
 

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Very Nice @Alwaysdirty.

Some Really Great work you've done there. :thumbup

It will do Very Well next Spring in the Fullsize Bronco Invasion at Moab....
(just A "Brazen" plug to try and get you involved) :toothless

Later,
Dragon
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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sorry if this was already mentioned, whats with the different tires brands? Great build
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Very Nice @Alwaysdirty.

Some Really Great work you've done there. :thumbup

It will do Very Well next Spring in the Fullsize Bronco Invasion at Moab....
(just A "Brazen" plug to try and get you involved) :toothless

Later,
Dragon
Thanks Dragon! We'll see about Moab, I cant make any promises yet but I sure would love to go and represent!
 

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Discussion Starter #75
sorry if this was already mentioned, whats with the different tires brands? Great build
Thanks Travis. The tires are craigslist specials I acquired over a few months period. Most of them are spares that never saw any use and just stayed on the back of trucks. The oldest one is from 2014, I paid $620 for 5 35" offroad tires with full tread. 3/ Kevlar MTR's, 1/BFG KM2, and 1/Cooper STT PRO.
 

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I am going to do the same thing on mine as far as running the brake lines.
What is the adapter?
Do you know how long the pre-made lines were that you bought?
size?

I noticed the "T" for the front is next to the drivers side with the passenger side having a longer hard line. Do they not need to be equal length?


I got my outers assembled and brakes lines ran. I have an oddball outer setup I came up with many years ago and finally executed it. For my outers I wanted 5.5x5 lug, the large inner wheel bearing, flat top knuckles and dual piston brake calipers. This is not a possible setup with Ford or Chevy parts when wanting to stay 5 lug.
I knew that 80's Dodge Ramchargers had a 5.5x5 lug setup and the large inner wheel bearing so I did some investigating at the JY and found a Ramcharger and pulled the hubs and spindle, the spindle was a six hole so that wasnt going to work with my Ford knuckles but the hub was almost a perfect fit to the HD D44 spindle. So I had to get the Dodge hub outer bearing seat machined inwards .25" and then it was a perfect fit to the Ford spindle. I had to use the Dodge outer stub axle shaft and widen the snap ring groove by a 1/16" to the outside to fit the snap ring. The next challenge was the brake rotors, I wanted to use the HD D44 dual piston calipers, I had to use front rotors off of an '02 Ram 1500 and machine them down to match the circumference of the HD D44 8 lug rotors, lucky for me, way back when a former member here named SWAT sold me for cheap already machined down Napa Gold rotors that are new, I drilled the Dodge hubs lug holes to match the rotors and installed 9/16" lug studs. Below is a picture of this setup and I really like it, the Dodge hub is much beefier than the Bronco 5 lug hub, my Ford flat top knuckles are WAY more beef than the Dodge or regular Bronco knuckles. I feel like this is the strongest possible 5 lug outer setup.

Next is the front brake lines, I gutted the ABS system, pulled fuses, removed the pump, computer and jumperd the harness. I ran new hardlines from the MC and used stainless braided 33" hose at the wheels, I absolutely hate flaring brake lines so I got an adapter for the MC and premade lines from Oriellys. Of course non of the lines they had were the exact lengths I needed so I did some creative bending to make everything match up. Also made my own straps from 3/8" 1 hole straps and lined them with rubber tubing to not chafe the lines. I also had a Bear proportioning valve from a past project I installed to the rear lines and I am running a Lighting 1.25" bore MC to help squeeze those dual piston calipers.


Here is what I have left to do on this project:
-Bleed the brake system
-Get my 35's installed on the rims and set the truck on its own weight
-Install the OX diff cover, run the OX cable and install the shifter in the cab
-Install new body mounts
-Get an alignment






 

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Discussion Starter #77
I am going to do the same thing on mine as far as running the brake lines.
What is the adapter?
Do you know how long the pre-made lines were that you bought?
size?

I noticed the "T" for the front is next to the drivers side with the passenger side having a longer hard line. Do they not need to be equal length?
If you mean the adapter at the wheel side of the hardlines it is for going from the tubing to the AN braided brake line fitting and held in place with spring steel clips.
Allstar performance 50100 or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220324

For the fitting to the caliper I used Drag Specialties DS098150 https://www.ebay.com/p/Drag-Specialties-150-3-8in-Banjo-x-AN-3-Male-35deg-Brake-Fitting/171188563?iid=371926298707&chn=ps

The stainless braided brake lines are XRP 33" 630033 https://www.amazon.com/XRP-630033-Straight-Brake-Hose/dp/B003NEBQSU


For tube lengths, the long side to the passenger was 40" from the Tee, out of the MC is an 8" adapter (which I dont remember the size of off hand) then coupled to a 20" line to the Tee and an 8" to the driver line adapter from the Tee.
Size is 3/16" with 3/8"x24 fittings.
The front wheel lines do not need to be equal length, I dont think they were from the factory. My brakes work awesome and don't pull left or right.
 

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thanks. Did you use the existing tube for the rear?
 

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Discussion Starter #79
thanks. Did you use the existing tube for the rear?
Your welcome. I did new tube on the rear axle and reused the tube along the frame rail, there is a coupling below the fire wall that I attached to from the proportioning valve at the master cylinder. I also flushed the existing line out really well of old fluid.
 
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