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:thumbup:rockon:beer:chili::twotu::usa

X2.

You'll live to finish telling your SAS story to us Mike.

 

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look on the inside Mike, you should see a little bolt that holds the block on that is holding the sensor for the ABS as I recall. I think that little bolt is a weird one, like 12pnt, 6mm I want to say?

 

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There are 2 bolts. I was referring to a little, almost hidden one on the inside of the knuckle. Then there is a block out on the spindle side. In this pic I have removed the little bolt and the block here:

 

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This isn't your exact setup, but for comparison I am running the 6" Deavers, 5.8/E4OD (heavy) combo, and winch and raised my JBG (78-79 type) buckets 1". I truly have no more than 6" lift.

 

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I wouldn't bother trying to clean axle tubes until the axle is gutted.

 

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Are you talking about something like this Mike? Hope not cuz your fab guy could have done them for $20 AND you already have the holes drilled up top in the frame (with your '95 at least):

 

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We were talking about these...

Mike I could have made you a set for next to nothing.

He has a pic that shows duff frame brackets. You don't need to mess with all that cage bracket, just make them out of Angled like I posted. So easy. If he had a welder, he could do this in an hour or two and might even have the leftover angle.

 

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The cage arms have 4* of correction made in to them, you should have went with the 2* bushings.

Agreed.

I would like those with more back spacing, I was thinking of going with the Trail Ready beadlocks when I get the cash. Looks like you need to bolt an axle to your tires!

Really? They are cool, but I'd want less backspacing (center rim face pushed more inward relative to the outer rim).

Edit: I took a look at the pic of my new wheels, and Mike's pic is very similar. These aluminum wheels are kinda funny because it's hard to gauge the backspacing, they always appear to have a lot of backspace, but the beadlock (or faux beadlock in my case) hides some of the rim coming out, plus where the lugs are you can see they are indented inward, so this wheel probably does come with a fairly stockish backspacing.

Also I took my degree indicated and checked my caster. Looks like I am showing around 15*. I am using the 4* bushings like everyone else has with this same setup. I have a set of 7* degree bushings so I guess once I get the axle located I will be swapping them out.


In the pic your bronco looks like it is higher in the front than the back which would increase the reading on your angle indicator.

yes. And with the numbers you're getting Mike.....coil compressed a lot, way too much caster, etc. I don't think you have the truck setting how it would under it's own weight, level ground.

but the way what coils did you use again, are those a cage or duff variable rate, 6"?

 

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Did you do those pics for our benefit? Wheels should be straight, have no idea if that would be an accurate measurement. I was never sure if the top of my flattops truly gave me an accurate measurement. I usually try for a flat spot at the bottom of the knuckle to compare measurements.

 

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Aurorabusa.

You can buy the expensive kit, but Rodney did his and I think just took it to a machinist to cut the notches.

 

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Looks good Mike. One thing I always like is when a fab is simple-strong. If for some reason you ever needed to do it again, it's little time, effort, or cost.

 

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how about now?

yep.

Paint is seriously dry and ready for install.:thumbup

 

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I have a set of 170/60 in the rear with the Deaver 5.5" springs, and they are not enough in that configuration, in my opinion. So maybe an upgrade to the 255/70 or add another set of 170/60 in the rear with one of those custom shock bars too.

Is it as easy as saying a pair of 170's makes the equivalent of a 340?

Probably not, but it certainly can be a guide since it should be close. If you are using 170's in the rear plus deaver leafs, you are probably pretty soft. You probably could use much more with a single shock setup, at least 255 in a single shock app.

 

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If you are talking about the leaf spring eyes and the shackle, I just got my new procomp's and they are 9/16th rear and 5/8ths front. And they fit snug, i.e. you don't have to hammer them in, but when they slide in there is little to no play.

 

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It still flexes out fine when its offroad, I like having the dual shocks up front versus having a swaybar. There is a lot of weight up front that will be tossing back and forth off road and on the road as well. Enough to cause unwanted body roll, I went with four 255/70 in the front because of so many others that have done this before be said singals and no swaybar is very boingy up front or to much body roll. There isn't as much weight in the back so obviously I dont need but two of the same but wanted all the travel I could get so two more of the same shocks in the rear. Its yours though do it to it the way you want.:thumbup

The difference is tremendous. I did my SAS in '05 and ran the OLD school super soft deaver spring and a single shock up front. Not only was there a ton of body roll, but off road the spring wanted to bounce way too much for my liking. About 2 years ago I traded the old soft deavers for what everyone uses today. They are about 10% stiffer. That helped, but I knew I still wanted to try quad shocks since I still had 2 more cage shocks uninstalled since I did the SAS. Finally got around to that about a year ago now. The ride is firm daily driving. Controlled in corners, the body starts to lean a little and then it just seems to take a set and holds it right around the corner. I wish I had done this when I first put the SAS in it's so much better. Offroad you still get all the travel that the spring will allow, it's just that I'm not bouncing all over the place, the dual shocks control that. And again it feels controlled but not harsh. It would feel harsh if I was running a stiff spring.

Exactly what the best compression/rebound pressures to use with dual shocks is anyone's guess. But I had this discussion with Foxbravo awhile back about the pros and cons to running a swaybar to sfiffen up the front versus dual shocking. Not to say that you still couldn't also run a swaybar while dual shocked, I just don't see the need at this point.

landshark also updated his build with details about his single bilstein that is now much more firm through changing his valving or something.

Edit: should have also mentioned I again noticed nice improvement in on road driving going from 15" wheels and Iroks load range C vs. 17" wheels and MTR kevlars

 

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Don't be surprised Mike if the passenger side remains about 5/8ths lower. Mine has always been like this, ttb, and then when I did the SAS I tried to do a minor correction by making my front wedge passenger side just a little thicker, but the passenger is still lower. What I always remember though is that I am almost always the only one in the truck, so my weight probably makes the truck sit perfectly level.

Also, front to rear, I can understand wanting to correct that a little. I'm on the opposite end where the front is high by about 5/8ths, so with the new procomp springs I have I am hoping to get rid of the block/AAL I've had forever for no block, new procomp and steel wedge and ORD "leaf" that has my axle back 1". This should get me about 1" more height, so the front would then be low maybe 3/8ths which is how I want it for putting stuff in the back for trails plus full tank of gas.

 

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I just got through taking the front springs out. I measured the front section of the frame to make sure it's level. I measured the Drivers side top lip on the coil bucket and it was 44 3/4" the pass was 45 1/8". So I'm hoping this is part of the problem Shadofax. I won't be able to live with it not sitting level! It will bug the piss outta me!:banghead:banghead

The spring sitting on the ground they look identical so I'm thinking it's not the springs.

Looking at the lower cup it looks like one might be slightly higher than the other but can't really tell too well. I'll just have to measure it.

As far as front to back goes I like it sit just a bit high in the back as well. I'll have to have a new block in the back with more angle so it will correct the pinion angle. Also I'm sure it will work out good once I have it all back together with the front bumper and winch on.

So your truck was not like this with TTB? Mine was. I tried to correct it since I don't like it either, but even with my little wedge correction up front it did not help, go figure. I'm looking to maybe help this a little if I can with rear leafs.

Keep in mind though, Steve83 has this on his website somewhere that, as I recall, this is not uncommon and Ford has a normal side to side difference as no more than about 5/8ths, so they would not correct something that was this or less.

Oh, I also forgot about this, related to your coil comment, my deaver coils were the exact same length, but I thought there might be some tiny difference in rod thickness or something that might cause this, so when I swapped out my C bushing a couple years back I moved the coils one side to the other....NO difference. I also know my coil towers are pretty close to the exact height installed, side to side. I have yet to figure this out other than tired ol rear leafs.

 

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Mike you could do like I did and take 1" out of your coil buckets. If that is the problem.

What coils are these? I was just reviewing past pages and see the progressive rate. These aren't the EB coils that fox used are they? You shouldn't have this low of a frontend unless you have a way too soft coil. I didn't like that selection from the git go, having ran the very early Deaver super soft coil (and Foxes I am pretty sure were softer than that). Not a good selection for a fullsize bronco. Instead of playing with the towers and later still not being happy with how soft the front is, you should consider a change to the current deaver 6" coil. You'd not have to redo any of the work you have done. matter of fact the front might be a bit high, which is why some opt for the 4" if you have a lighter frontend.

 

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No mine are not like the coils fox had bought. I had 4" lift springs then a shackle flip with a zero rate putting me around 9" of lift or more. and I got about 8" out of the front and just wanted it to sit more level. I ended up around a 1/2" lower in the front after adjusting the buckets.

Sorry, I was referring to the progressive coil Mike is using. I was trying to quote the discussion on changing the bucket, but then suggesting that the coil should be considered first.

 

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I brought these springs from Cage when he did the last sale on them. I hope I don't have to end up buying another set of springs. But I think lowering the buckets will fix the problem.

I think you will be ok. I don't recall the spring rate (yes, they are progressive so they change under compression/extension), but they were meant for a FSB. I was worried you went with the EB progressives that I think foxbravo used, which ended up being super soft.